Member postings for Roger B

I described the adjustment procedure here:

**LINK**

Getting the optimum setting of all three screws can take a little patience. Does the tailstock move smoothly with very little play? Is there obvious wear on the top of the bed?

Hopper, they are in stock at my supplier but P+P may be a problem

**LINK**

As a glasses wearer I can recomend the Uvex Super OTG.

**LINK**

I often forget I am wearing them when I leave the cellar.

There is also some information on Ron's Model Engineering web site:

**LINK**

If you choose 'Resources' on the left hand side followed by 'How to?' You will see a list of topics. 'Remove a Broken Tap' takes you to the pages on 'Making and Using a Basic EDM'

Best regards

Roger

If you beleive you have isolated correctly and are prepared to touch it with your hand a short circuit with a screwdriver will be no problem. If you have made a mistake it may save your life. Belt and braces.

There was apparently a design change in the MF 70 motor so the detail of the part number may be important.

This company offers a possibility:

**LINK**

The parts list is here if you don't already have it:

**LINK**

I have removed the motor from my (probably newer) MF 70. There is a screw either side of the motor and then you have to pull the motor out of the coupling. The older version appears to be more like a gear.

Best regards

Roger

Is the crankshaft cut from solid or a casting?

Are you doing all the turning between centers?

Is it possible to support one end in a 4 jaw chuck to improve ridigity?

This is going back a long time but I think it was quite deep, 25-30mm. If you have a MT1 something with a tang on it it will give you an idea of how deep the taper in the quill is.

OK. Another option (which was done on my brother's slightly later version of the same lathe) is to drill through the quill from the handwheel end which allows the use of a 'knocking out' bar.

I would make a couple of spacers to go between the tailstock body and the back of the chuck and then use the feedscrew and handwheel to try and push the chuck out.

I have used similar small permenant magnet motors as generators for my IC engines. You may find you need to use a belt drive to increase the speed, this was common in full size steam generating stations.

As a quick check you could drive one of the motors with your lathe of drill and see what output you can get.

This video is my 3cc engine lighting a few lamps:

**LINK**

If you can manage German these people also claim to offer spare parts:

**LINK**

There is also a downloadable (German) Instruction manual and parts list at the bottom of the page

Best regards

Roger

You should be able to get a new bed. Essel Engineering still have some parts although they are no longer on the website:

**LINK**

As the same lathe is still made and imported by Pro Machine Tools they may also be able to help:

**LINK**

Best regards

Roger

Is the compression good? You should be able to 'bounce' the piston off the compression.

Best regards

Roger

The manual I have shows a fine feed system that screws in above the quill and gives a fine screw adjustment (it must have a thrust bearing somewhere) but I don't have any real details. I just reach up and wind the handle

The middle screw forces the clearance to open and the outer two pull it shut. If you unscrew the middle screw do you still have too much free play or does the saddle lock up?

If you still have free play gently tighten the two out screws until the saddle is just tight. You may need to experiment to make sure that both screws are having an effect and it is not just tight at one end. Then gently tighten the middle screw until you have free movement without excessive play.

If the saddle locks up gently loosen the two outer screws until it is free and proceed as above.

You should not need more than finger pressure on a standard length Allen key for the above adjustments.

Best regards

Roger

This is the 'bounce' I get on 25cc engine with single 125mm flywheel which is nearer your size.

Do you get suction at the inlet port when you turn the engine by hand?

Looking at the drawing on the Hemingway website the valve cages have ports in the side. Is it possible to assemble them the wrong way round?

Best regards

Roger

Edited By Roger B on 08/11/2018 11:02:32

How are you turning the engine to try and start it, by hand or with an electric drill?

Are you sure you are turning it in the correct direction (ref. fuel coming out of the carb air intake)?

Is the exhaust passage free? Pressure in the cylinder when the inlet valve opens could also cause blowback.

Best regards

Roger

The compression does not have to be high but there must be no leaks. The usual description is 'bouncy' or 'springy'. You should be able to flick the flywheel in the direction of the compression stroke and it should bounce back.

Are you using a homemade or commercial sparkplug? Do you have a spare? DOA is not unknown.

Have you checked the complete valve and ignition sequence with the sparkplug resting on top of the engine so you can see the point of firing.

Inlet opens around TDC.

Inlet closes just after BDC

Spark plug fires just before TDC

Exhaust opens just before BDC

Exhaust closes around TDC

What fuel are you using? Old petrol can have lost most of it's volatile components.

Best regards

Roger

Here, Switzerland, an adjustable spanner is known as an" Englander"

Best regards

Roger