Here is a list of all the postings Robin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford Shaper Vertical feed|
I usually wind the handle until the resistance from the screw feels like enough to make the pawl disengage.
Here is a bit that bugs me. To assemble it you have to catch the 1/8" key in the ratchet wheel, then slide in the shaft hoping it all lines it up. But the keyway in the shaft is not long enough and it was cut with a side cutter so the depth fades out at the end.
To compensate my key is kind of loose and short. Even so it is wedging itself in before reaching the home position. Sorely tempted to square it off with an endmill. Maybe separate the ratchets with a shim washer so the key doesn't depend on my sintered bronze bushing to knock it out.
Splendid. Can never get enough info... Next question. Does this rough-cut welded doo-hickey look like original Boxford or home-made?
Barry, that detente that allows you to rotate the pawl and switch from horizontal to vertical feed...
You have a lovely knurled knob where I have a crummy grub screw.
What is under that knurl? Is it a screw or a spring loaded pin?
|Thread: Parting tool trouble|
I tried a couple of the cheap Chinese version, neither did very well
|Thread: Aluminium solder|
Reporting back as instructed.
Durafix EasyWeld performed as it did in the YouTube video. I am most pleased and just about to order more.
If you would like the pile of rods that did not work for me, (for further investigation), simply PM me a mailing address and they are yours
|Thread: Boxford Shaper Vertical feed|
I'm just doing one, the tricky bit is cutting 40 x 1/16" grooves in the ratchet, you really need a shaper for that.
I broke my only 1/16" end mill and had to do them 2mm.
The gear is the same as the one it meshes with. I gave it a sintered bronze bushing.
It goes up and down like anything. The vertical drive shaft has a steel gear taper pinned on the end. Be sure to remove the bronze gear behind before knocking the pin out. Angst
Have you found a supplier for 3/32" x 1 1/2" taper pins? I got some 1" from EKP but I need bigger.
|Thread: Aluminium solder|
Hi Bezzer, glorious repair, I want to play too
I do a lot of tin/lead soldering so I went straight for the 300degC aluminium solder then I went for anything at 400degC that didn't come from China.
I am trying to make a rectangular frame from extruded aluminium channel cut at 45 degrees. Nobody else seems to have any problem using this stuff but I think maybe they have teething troubles.
I am supposed to melt it by touching it onto hot aluminium. That would entail a lot less contact than I have with this soldering iron. I do have a thermocouple tip tester somewhere but the chances of finding it when needed are low.
I started with the MAP-PLUS torch and it laughed at me. I lugged a tank of Calor gas back from the workshop with a Sievert torch attached but I still couldn't make it melt without showing it the flame when I got blobs. I could not get it to behave which is why I started playing with soldering irons.
I think I am going to try Durafix Easyweld from Oxford Welding Supplies. They seem to have a reputation they might want to preserve with a bit of quality control. I just wish they would tell me the diameter of their rod not just the length
I want some of that aluminium solder that melts at 400C and flows like Ersin Multicore onto 60/40 tinned copper. The one that bridges huge gaps and laughs at hammers trying to break it apart. We have all seen it on YouTube, you know what I mean.
I have tried 2 aluminium solders so far and they definitely do not do what they claim on the tin. Here we see a wire that should go at 392C still holding shape at 450C.
Am I missing some wrinkle?
Where do I get the good stuff?
|Thread: What would you ban and why? (Definitely tearoom!)|
Bobby Ewing got bumped off for a season in '85 but JR was only shot, not shot dead. I was a fan
|Thread: What Did you do Today 2022|
My very first gear wheel, ever. A 45 tooth, 16DP in cast iron, press fitted to the mandrel
Looks okay but I can't test it until I have made another. Will they mesh?
|Thread: Boxford shaper|
Angst: 4 hours to remove the handle on the tool slide, eventually wedged it off with Stanley knife blades. Went to clean it and it has a different paint than everywhere else, one that cannot withstand harsh ultrasonics and turns to slime.
The clapper seems to adust okay, I can put it as tight or as loose as I want. Whether it will stay as I want only time will tell.
Now I am also waiting for a 3/8" reamer. Humph.
The clapper box is plastered in the same dried-out grease I have found everywhere else. Won't know if it has issues until the grease is gone
The missing pin secures the feed winder ratchet thing to the bull gear shaft.
The hole starts at 0.2525 and tapers to 0.209 over 2.13"
The original pin sat slightly down in the hole and had that dome end, uncut look. That is why I assume 1/4" imperial ???
On cursory inspection, the clapper box seems fine and dandy, but I am a shaper novice and wouldn't know what to look for yet
I was so close to trying it out
I will while away the hours cleaning up the vice and the clapper slide thingy
I was storming along, new motor installed, all the bare iron sparkly after a dose of Scotch Brite with a palm sander, then splatt. I lost a taper pin.
I am completely stuck. Of all the parts I could lose it is one of the more replaceable, so I want to get my order in to try and force the original out of hiding.
Question, if I buy a 1/4" x 2 1/2" taper pin, will the other end be larger or smaller than 1/4"? Which way do they go?
I have to go walk the dog, I will put some pictures up when I get back.
Interesting... The vertical feed was an optional extra, which I do not have. However, most of it is there. Very tempting but I think that is for another day
Strangely enough, when compiling my list of things to do with it, "Use it" did not occur to me
I brought a Boxford shaper home last night then fell asleep in front of the telly.
Went to look at it in the garage this morning and half an hour later it was all in pieces.
I don't actually need a shaper so this is a bit like puberty, I don't know what will happen next.
Will I clean it, fix it, repair it, paint it?
I don't think it has been used much. It looks like the grease dried on the table slides, someone wound the handles once a year and found it was not improving, got bored and left it alone. It is in lovely condition, nothing I couldn't fix in an afternoon
|Thread: I am going to buy a mill….Decisions, Decisions !!|
I think they are made by Rong Fu in Taiwan which is why you often see an RF suffix part number.
Look closely at bolt-on-goodies and ponder these questions...
Will that restrict travel?
Will it get in the way?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.