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Member postings for 34046

Here is a list of all the postings 34046 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Someone with a Cowells 90ME
23/01/2020 18:24:29


Is it just the strap with the locating pin at the top held on by a allen key bolt at the bottom that is missing ?


Thread: Unimat Fretsaw set up
23/01/2020 17:51:20


I can photograph the assembly diagram from the handbook and mail it to you if it helps.



Edited By 34046 on 23/01/2020 17:51:49

Thread: Unimat 3 underpowered ?
23/01/2020 16:52:45
Posted by JasonB on 23/01/2020 15:57:24:

I think Dave has got confused with the various Unimat SL versions which did have several different size motors unlike the Unimat 3 that only had the 95W motor and that worked well for me.


That would make sense Jason and is quite understandable and I would be more in agreement with him if that is the case. Thanks for pointing it out.The U3 is a totally different animal to the earlier SL model.

I have skimmed and faced an 80 mm diameter aluminium flywheel in mine though I must admit that is max capacity.




Edited By 34046 on 23/01/2020 16:53:17

Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing
23/01/2020 14:44:50
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 23/01/2020 13:43:11:

Simple, Silver soldering is done with silver solder rods, which cost mad money.

Brazing is done using brass rods, which are quite cheap and the joint is stronger, just needs more heat.


Larry, I like this post - short and to the point.


I do wonder what Keith made of it all with his post


Hi folks

Words fail.

There's an expression involving a horse and water but I can't recall it at the moment.

Perhaps I should just keep my thoughts to myself. Is that the bugler playing "The Last Post"?

Edited By 34046 on 23/01/2020 14:45:08

Thread: Unimat 3 underpowered ?
23/01/2020 14:16:06
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 23/01/2020 13:52:11:
Posted by 34046 on 23/01/2020 12:11:07:

Posted by Julian Saunders 1 on 22/01/2020 17:15:05:.


Heartily agree - absolutely nothing wrong with a U3 and well capable of more than clock making.

Jason's engine as above is proof of what it can do



Not so sure myself! Reading Michael's link and I find the motors varied between 40W and 125W. That's a very wide range, enough to make comparing one lathe with another dubious. Beware of chaps advising that their Unimats are wonderful: it's the state yours is in that matters and they ain't seen it cut metal!

My reading suggests a 90W 80% duty cycle Universal AC/DC motor was most common on these machines. (Some are only 60% duty cycle). That's plenty adequate for small delicate precision work, but clearly Unimat's aren't bruisers. Compared with the more suitable 450-650W DC or brushless motor fitted to a mini-lathe, Unimat motors are weaklings.

What a particular Unimat is capable of today will depend on the motor fitted and even more critically on what condition it's in. Over the last 3 or 4 decades, an underpowered Universal motor may have been thrashed, showered in 3-in-1, run on dud brushes or allowed to spark due to a failed suppressor capacitor. The commutator and bearings may be damaged. I wouldn't assume there's anything wrong with the lathe without having a critical look at the motor; maybe it's just filthy and needs some TLC. Unfortunately, if a Unimat motor is done for, replacing it doesn't seem to be cheap or easy. Not sure why - is it because they're a non-standard fitting? Lot's of old lathes accept new motors and a VFD without fuss.




Dave = would I be right in thinking you have not used or owned a U3?


The factory fitted 8 on / 2 off motors are a pain and best binned and it was 95 watt. I have never heard of a 40 watt motor supplied on a U3 - do you have more info please ?

The continuous one fitted to the U4 is a reliable option.

A 24v scooter motor can be fitted cheaply with a bridge rectifier and a variable speed pot for £50 = articles on the old yahoo covered this in great detail.

We have done this on my sons lathe and it can attach to an exsisting plate so very simple to do.

I have the Parvalux motors on mine, agree they are expensive but again bolt on to exsisting plate.

Jan Gunnarrson made his award winning V4 oscillator on a U3. I stand by what I said before - Jason's post and picture stand testament as to what can be done on the U3.






Edited By 34046 on 23/01/2020 14:20:24

Edited By 34046 on 23/01/2020 14:23:06

Thread: Hall Class Display Model
23/01/2020 13:35:11


Please do post the build


Thread: Unimat 3 underpowered ?
23/01/2020 12:11:07
Posted by Julian Saunders 1 on 22/01/2020 17:15:05:

The Unimat 3 can be very accurate, I have made a 40.000mm quill to upgrade the vertical milling to tapered bearings, I have used it to make master patterns for Matchbox and Corgi, its accuracy was always great. I have upgraded the motors to a 0.5kw DC for main, and a 0.3KW 3 phase with controller on each motor, with reverse. Takes a 1" brass bar down to 0.5" in one pass, the Myford doth protest when I try it on that !!

Heartily agree - absolutely nothing wrong with a U3 and well capable of more than clock making.

Jason's engine as above is proof of what it can do


Thread: Hello from Julz, new member
23/01/2020 08:36:20

Hallo Julian and welome to the forum.

Good to see another U3 user.

I have three in total, one set up as a lathe, one as a mill and one used purely for wood turning.

I have ditched the original motors in favour of variable speed D C Parvalux motors.


Thread: Help choosing my lathe
22/01/2020 21:03:35
Posted by Philip Powell on 22/01/2020 20:58:58:

But I much prefer to work in metric, everything is much more logical no messing about with fractions or number/letter drills etc. Oops! Opened a can of worms there.


Plus 1 from me


Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing
22/01/2020 21:01:11

Ian T

However, I'm sure others here will wish to debate this distinction further- so I look forward to reading further opinions on pages 5,6,7 etc....

Sorry to disagree but I cannot share your enthusiasm.


22/01/2020 20:05:40
Posted by Dave Wootton on 22/01/2020 20:03:24:

Thanks for explaining the difference between brazing and bronze welding Stueee, had a look on Youtube very inspiring. I've used bronze welding a lot on classic British bikes, I'm working on a Norton twin at the moment, seems to resist the vibration better than my welding!

I had an interesting call from a friend who is a great fund of knowledge on matters classic and vintage motorcycle, who had seen the thread. He believes the term bronze welding came around almost as a trade name, and was used to differentiate between the old hearth brazed lugged frames and parts and the more modern ( at the time ) bronze welded frames. an early form of spin?


Good old featherbed frame I suspect ?


22/01/2020 20:03:37
Posted by Chris TickTock on 20/01/2020 21:51:31:

Feel free to add, subtract amend?


I think that request worked Chris



Thread: Fradley Canal Crane Progress
22/01/2020 18:34:01
Posted by JasonB on 22/01/2020 18:18:13:

Neil, your revised drawing has two dimension lines that don't point to anything, the 3 1/16" and the 8 13/32"

Edited By JasonB on 22/01/2020 18:26:39


There is also another one to the left hand side of the jib - a horizontal line below the 17 9/16 dimension ?


22/01/2020 18:22:27

Nice work Alan. an interesting model and now on my to do list .

Would agree that from photos they look parallel.


Thread: Help choosing my lathe
22/01/2020 18:00:42

I had an imperial apprenticeship and bought metric as that was the only option at the time. I would not want to go back to imperial now.

To answer your question - what works for you ? If you are most comfortable with thous and have the equipment then why wait ?


Thread: Winson Pug
22/01/2020 14:45:50


Spoken to a friend who is a member and I am told that there are members with Pugs and also there is a section devoted to this with threads on it and a member who has drawings, etc.

Just log in and scroll down to a dedicated section named Modelworks / Winson near the bottom and ask any questions there.

Hope this helps



Edited By 34046 on 22/01/2020 14:56:07

22/01/2020 08:30:20

May be worth asking on Model Engineering Clearing House as they have a section devoted to Winson engines.

Free to join and the forum is locomotive based as opposed to this forum which covers a much wider general area.


Thread: projects
21/01/2020 11:11:03

Hello John

Andy at Stuart's is good to deal with, and in the event of say a blowhole in a casting, then it is replaced no problem.

Cannot help on the tool grinder as I always use replaceable tip tools but hopefully somebody will be along with suggestions

Building simple model steam engines by Tubal Cain volumes 1 and 2, normally around the £3 mark on ebay are worth a punt. Lots of useful maching  / how to do it tips.



Edited By 34046 on 21/01/2020 11:15:22

Thread: Sent lathe back
20/01/2020 21:04:58


The Cowells from memory is 14 mm by 1 mm ?, but I stand to be corrected.

Unimat is 14 by 1 also Sherline do a good range in this size.


Thread: Apologies for raising this again
20/01/2020 20:35:51
Posted by Stueeee on 20/01/2020 19:01:45:
Posted by Mike Poole on 19/01/2020 22:29:44:

That really does look like a crank that would have a severe rigidity problem if any tuning was applied to that engine.

Lots of Austin Seven engines with 2 bearing crankshafts have been tuned for performance, not usually to the extent of this motor, which also has a 2 bearing crank -albeit a reproduction EN40 Nitrided one rather than the Austin factory item.

Is that 8 sparking plugs please ?


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