Here is a list of all the postings Andy Carruthers has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DC motor + speed controller|
Check out YouTube - Clough42 - developing an electronic lead screw
|Thread: Lathe improvements?|
There’s a chap just started a series on DIY ELS on YouTube - search for Clough42, makes very interesting viewing. He explains the issues very well and is developing the series as he goes, for example, has moved on from stepper to hybrid stepper / servo motor. I’m waiting for him to complete the series then either purchase a kit or plans depending upon how he chooses to monetise his IPR. His electronics knowledge is deeper than mine and has already saved me from wasting a lot of time, what’s more, it looks like his software is available under an open source licence
|Thread: Oh Dear, I've blown the chop saw...|
You could measure resistance across commutator windings to satisfy your curiosity but frankly it's dead and needs to go to Silicon heaven
|Thread: Unknown tool|
Let's hope it isn't British Steel, Scunthorpe, on my doorstep, but I work in London!
|Thread: sieg mill: normal chuck or collet chuck?|
Collet chucks with many contact points are more secure and accurate ie tool holding is repeatable and centred whereas normal drill chuck with 3 contact points has more variation therefore less accurate
Personally I use a collet chuck in my mill, a small additional cost for significant benefits
|Thread: Hobbymat MD200|
I can’t comment on what Warco machines are most popular - I saw a WM150 on eBay recently. Give Warco a call - there are several machine agents with stock worth calling too. If I were in your position, I would want to try first, I got lucky and don’t regret my purchase.
Heres the thread I alluded to earlier: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=141354
Edited By Andy Carruthers on 19/05/2019 21:30:30
Have a look at Warco WM150, might suit your need
Naturally there are limitations with smaller machines - but we all start somewhere and (almost) any lathe is better than no lathe at all - I say almost because a badly worn lathe won’t deliver the results you are looking for
Having bought a second-hand WM180 a few years ago to see if I would like tinkering with a lathe I managed to stumble upon a decent lathe at the right price. Somewhere on this forum I put my thoughts down, I am certainly no expert, best advice is to try a few lathes and see what suits you best
Warco have an open day soon where they will have 2nd hand lathes available
|Thread: Fake Websites|
The problem is not restricted to any one industry
There are several companies who purport to be local or national locksmith companies who are anything but. Emergency Response Group (ERG), Able and others advertise as national companies with local branches and provide cover via subcontractors. Typically the subbies get 40-50% of the service charge paid 30-60 days after invoice at month end and lumbered with all warranty work FOC
|Thread: E.stop wiring|
One further consideration is to fuse the appliance correctly, this formula applies to AC and DC
Power (Watts) = Volts * Current (Amps)
@Grant - you should put a 2A fuse in the appliance plug, always put the closest commonly available fuse to match the power load. If an overload situation occurs, the fuse protects the rest of the components
0.37kW = 220V * 1.68A
Now there are variations to the rule, startup load may exceed minimum fuse rating, but in general, the principle holds true and slow-blow fuses are available too
Whatever you do, don't leave 13A fuses supplied in (almost) all domestic appliances, calculate the appropriate fuse value first
Mike - You are right - on reflection, the E Stop Switch current rating is 12A @250V so unlikely to be damaged with the loads I have
I have read your latest comment several times and am struggling to grasp what you mean
If you wire your switches as per photos and wiring schematic your wiring will be functionally correct and provide the best protection
The diagram reflects the wiring in the photos and correctly represents how the Emergency Stop Switch protects the KJD 17 and Load
Please PM if you think there is an issue, always willing to be educated
Assumes terminal post numbers are correct from the above information
The "hold on" relay is internally wired to Neutral, just needs a Live supply to A1
Edited By Andy Carruthers on 09/05/2019 13:34:36
Edited By Andy Carruthers on 09/05/2019 13:40:46
Robert is right
You want to protect the KDJ17 switch by putting the E Stop Switch first, this is shown in the middle of the three pictures, live feed to the left, live output to KDJ17 in bottom picture
Hitting E Stop Switch must prevent all live feed to downstream circuitry
Assuming you have fed live through the NC connections of an emergency stop switch (if fitted)
A1 is the "hold on" supply for the No Volt Release
Feed live to pin 23 - when Green button is pressed, without live to A1 the live supply will drop out as soon as the Green button is released
Link pin 24 to A1 taking live to your motor, if mains drops out, the "hold on" drops out rendering the circuit safe
|Thread: fly cutter or face mill|
What speed are you running the (presumably) HSS cutter at?
How deep are your cuts?
I had problems with TC tools as I was running too slow, TC should be (roughly) twice the speed of HSS
|Thread: Shackerstone - Battlefield Line - Outside storage|
FWIW I have emailed to enquire about the machinery, no reply yet...
Strange that a railway struggling for revenue hasn't sold these machines...
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