Member postings for Oldiron

A couple of gallons of vinegar will clean up the rust. Just make a bath out of a decent poly' sheet.

I did my old Zyto ( long gone to a new home) when I got it and it worked a treat.

Great find btw.

regards.

Edited By Oldiron on 23/11/2017 15:13:59

I agree with Bob. Unclamping the tailstock has probably given you the run out between jobs.

As Michael says, use a soft centre and turn a new taper then leave it in place until the job is done.

Its so easy to think that a setup will stay constant after spending so much time doing it but only one small thing has to change and its all gone to pot.

regards

I used a Boxford lathe with a milling attachment for several years before I got my 1st mill. Was very limited to what could be done but that was all I had. It did all the little jobs I wanted it for. The combi lathe mill is a bit of a compromise as well. If that's all you have room for you are not going to go far wrong with one. We are all limited by the machines we can fit in the workshop, the cost or some other factor. Go for the best you can afford and learn to use it to its full potential and enjoy it.

regards

I have a Chester Conquest mill and have used it constantly for over 2 years. It has done some pretty serious milling for a small machine. I use mainly carbide indexable tooling on it. including a 5 tip 60mm face mill. Never has it given me any doubt as to its reliability. I modified the plastic gears to a belt drive which made it a little quieter. Added a reversing switch to aid threading. Added a DRO to aid my accuracy oh and a tacho and table drive. OK so its not the stiffest or heaviest of machines but will certainly do all I needed it to do. I have a bigger heavier Ajax mill to do the larger items now but still use it for something several times a week.

regards

Edited By Oldiron on 22/11/2017 21:06:03

I have a Boxford with a threaded spindle, it is also fitted with a VFD. I often used the lathe in reverse for threading etc. I only use it in reverse at low speeds and not under big loads. The VFD ramps down the speed then restarts in reverse. So no chance of a sudden change of direction. I do have one chuck with a locking screw and a copper plug to lessen the likelihood of it unscrewing in reverse.

As I was told many years ago " if a manufacturer thought the chuck would unscrew in reverse under normal use, why the heck did they fit reversing switches?

regards

Is it possible to edit a post after it is posted ?? My post above should have an empty line between my text and NDIY's. ie:-

probably as a peace offering to me!).

Its very handy to have someone in -----

regards

Its very handy to have someone in the US that travels back & forth to the UK frequently. I have a lot of items bought in USA and brought over in luggage. ie 123, blocks, parrallels. DTI's, DRO's etc etc. Saves a lot of money compared to the UK. The wife is going over to Houston in the new year so I am already making a list.  regards.

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2017 13:06:49

It will work just fine. Shorten it a bit Just use light cuts. I have an Ajax MD20 round column mill and I use both 2 & 3 flute /16 & 20mm diameter types. All use XD 11T3 tips. I have several different radii tips and find them very useful for slotting/facing etc.. They need to be run quite fast so make sure you use the speeds & feeds correctly for the material you are cutting. I got mine from WNT, part numbers 59 737 016 & 59 737 020. I use them in an ER32 collet holder. They also work well on my Chester Conquest mill.

regards

I have a set that looks like that ( but it has all the drills in it . ) If IRC I believe it was about £35 from RDG Tools at the MMEE show last year.

You would have thought they could afford enough rope to tie it down by now.

As Dave said do not use the compound to do the boring. Use the carriage & lock the compound if you can. Use a fine feed with small cuts as the boring bar can bend under pressure.Even a reamer is not made to take out that much material.

regards

Kevin, If you cannot read the manual I would suggest that you email or contact the supplier. Ask them for a list of the basic parameters that need changing for external control.

My speed controls are wired one side of pot to 5v out, centre to 5v in, other side of pot to ground. (yours may have a different voltage like 10 or 20volts)

Hope this helps a bit.

regards

Not familiar with that one Kevin. Cannot find a reference to it. F & R is usually a push button on the front of the unit. The remote is usually pretty straight forward apart from the fact that you will need to program the unit to run from an external source.

Can you post some pictures of the connection layout schematic in the book. ?

Also a link to the inverter would help a bit.

regards

Nice job Mick. About halfway through making 6 BXA holders for my QCTP. Keep getting interrupted by some "yes darling" requests.

regards

mmm JasonB beat me to it.

Never seen a drill bit that does not drill oversize. Most times its best to drill with an undersize drill then measure & ream or bore to size. If you decide to make the hole bigger try getting to the required size by reaming it or using an undersize drill. Metric drills can be purchased in 0.1mm increments.

From what I can determine from a quick Google. These scopes have a M15 x 0.75 thread. It should be possible to change the arbour. **LINK**

As you have the lathe it should be a simple matter to take a tape measure and get those dimensions. If you have a manual for it the dim's are probably in the installation instructions. Or failing that , mount the lathe on the bench where it is going to be mounted and use a Sharpie to transfer the holes through to the bench. Slide the lathe over and drill holes to suit. Use a bolt slightly smaller than the hole to fix it down.