Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Locomotive boiler wrap|
I've used good quality thin card, obtainable from craft shops. Plasticard styrene sheet is also useful. Pieces of either can be stuck together with Sellotape and held around the boiler with string or elastic bands.
|Thread: 2 1/2 half cab|
Welcome to the forum. From your description it seems that the leak is from the superheater flue. IMO that will be very difficult to repair. The material will be very dirty from coal firing, it's probably inaccessible and elderly boilers have a tendency to spring more leaks when re-heated for jobs such as this. You don't say, but I assume the boiler is copper with silver-soldered joints.
Sorry to be a Jeremiah.
|Thread: Joining 20g brass|
Could they be lightly riveted and aso glued with epoxy resin, assuming the sole-plate forms part of the water tank?
I've successfuly used epoxy to seal tanks. If slightly warmed, it runs very freely into gaps.
|Thread: LBSC 440 Virginia|
I think that three simultaneous loco projects would be more than enough for me. Let alone four.
But it's a personal choice.
|Thread: Soldering a front tube plate|
The shell expansion would presumaby be matched by the tube-plate expanding a similar amount. I haven't seen provision of a gap as an issue in boilers I've made. More like getting the tube-plate a reasonably close fit in the shell. If a capillary gap was seen to be needed then filing a very shallow taper around the tube-plate flange would suffice in my view.
|Thread: 316 Stainless|
The slot isn't essential. All that's needed is a half-height key to connect the 2 change-wheels. Out with the hack-saw and files.
|Thread: Boxford ?|
The Boxford handbook "Know Your Lathe" will tell you how to use it. A rather poor copy is here
|Thread: Randa lathe has me much confused|
Is this page helpful?here
|Thread: Paint stripper|
If you need to use sodium hydroxide solution on, say a vertical surface it can be mixed into wallpaper paste to form a goo that will stay in place better than liquid.
|Thread: What lathe does this steady rest fit?|
|Thread: Hermes. A Company in Total Confusion!|
Commiserations, very annoying. I think a problem that you may face in pursuing Hermes is that you do not have a legal contract with them The seller of the watch does. If the seller is bona-fide can he take this up with Hermes? I thought that all goods dispatched via Hermes had an automatic minimum insured value of around £20.
If you paid by, say, Paypal then their Buyer Protection might help.
|Thread: Workshop lighting / energy costs|
+1 for the OP painting the ceiling and walls white. A good coat of emulsion would make a big improvement to overall light levels
Then install LEDs.
|Thread: Unwanted Taper|
Hi Steve, re headstock alignment; all along I've been thinking that your Zyto would have the headstock cast integral with the bed. After looking at some photos, I now think that it might be a separate casting bolted onto the bed. Is that the case? If so then I think misalignment there could be at the root of your problem. Are there any alignment dowels in this joint. Before lashing out on a test -bar I'd try a quick and dirty check with a length of reasonably accurate bar held in the chuck and tested by traversing your dial gauge against it, ( but I'm a cheapskate). Check at several points of spindle rotation to even out run-out.
Even a length of bright mid steel would do for a start. Ground silver steel even better. Doesn't have to be too large a diameter.
If your problem does lie there then a test bar might be worth considering.
Steve, levelling along the length of the lathe bed is of no real consequence. Across the bed should give identical readings at either end, but I doubt if your level is sensitive enough to really set the lathe up well.
The real test is to take a very light cut along, say, 2-3" of bar held in the chuck and shim the lathe feet to give parallel turning. A tedious job but light lathes have surprisingly flexible beds. Thr bench should be sturdy of course.
Surely that's not the way to use a level, even if it's a good one? It should be across the ways
I'd advise Steve to set his lathe up to turn parallel by adjusting the mounting feet. Then adjust thr tailstock after that.
Also agree with above. The dial indicator might well not be showing anything useful.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 02/10/2021 21:15:16
|Thread: Grinding tool bits|
10mm sq. HSS is OTT for most jobs on a Zyto and grinding that sized stuff on a typical hobby grinder is a tedious job.
6mm. is perfectly adequate for most work, considerably cheaper and much quicker to grind to shape.
They can be mounted in a 4-way toolpost or in a home-made holder with built-in top rake.
|Thread: Boxford model c?|
Based on my Boxford the large double pulley has a grub screw and a keyway. The 4-step pulley has only a grub screw.
Both grub-screws tend to loosen and when this happens on the 4-step pulley you could well see the movement you describe. I haven't stripped mine down in years but IIRC this grub-screw bears on a flat on the shaft, hence a small amount of loosening gives quite a lot of angular movement.
Incidentally, there are 2 types of rear drive countershaft, basically as diagram G above. They're similar to one another but the later one is more compact but gives an overall higher speed range.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/09/2021 09:01:25
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/09/2021 09:05:54
|Thread: Chatter/finish problem|
My first lathe, a Grayson had similar bearings to the Zyto, a split bush in a split housing tightened by a bolt. I think that arrangement was quite common with older, low-cost machines. There were no shims in my lathe. I understand that cracked bearing housings were not unknown if care wasn't taken.
I suspect that the OP's poor finish is largely due either to the grinding of the tool, with the small flat on the tip, or possibly, and less likely, to bearings worn badly out-of-round.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/09/2021 16:53:40
|Thread: Turning (approximating) a Domed Surface|
I made this cover recently with the hand-graver I described. Pretty much free-hand and took only a few minutes.
A bit more care perhaps if 2 identical domes were wanted.
I would do that type of turning with a hand-held graver. Mine is a length of 1/4" sq. hss mounted in a file handle. A hand-turning rest is required. Mine is usually a piece of square or rectangular BMS suitably positioned in the tool-post.
The graver is sharpened by grinding its end-face flat at about 45 deg.
Works very well on most materials.
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