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Member postings for Clive Brown 1

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Er32 chuck for Fortis lathe
11/11/2018 14:31:53

Don't necessarily put the run-out down to your "cheapo" collets. I made a similar ER25 chuck and at first had a few thou. run-out, similar for all my collets despite the taper running true. I thought that this might be due to making the screw-thread a wee bit too tight, so took off a shaving. Sure enough, the run-out reduced to less than a thou. at which I'm quite happy.

Clive

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 11/11/2018 14:33:07

Thread: Myford Super 7 quick change gearbox fitting
04/11/2018 19:08:27
Posted by Kevin F on 04/11/2018 14:00:10:.

It’s all there apart from the lead screw .

In that case, won't you will have to modify, ie shorten, your existing lead screw?

That was the case when I fitted my Boxford "B" with a gearbox. Fortunately the leadscrew passed through the spindle bore, which allowed machining of the end. Will this be the case for a Myford?

Thread: Abwood machine vise screw
02/11/2018 18:23:41

That's smart, well done! I didn't put a square on mine, just cross-drilled 1/2" for a tommy bar

Thread: Dial Gauge Advice
31/10/2018 11:08:42

In common with many, I have both types, acquired over the years. I use my Verdicts very frequently. Can't remember when I last used one of my plunger types.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 31/10/2018 11:09:15

Thread: Myford S7 George Thomas rear tool post, RTP
28/10/2018 17:10:50

Afraid mine don't seem to be around any longer, but If no-one has them to lend out, and provided you have access to a lathe, the required cutters are quite simple to make from silver steel, hardened afterwards. GHT described them in his original ME articles.

The 12 deg reamer is basically a tapered D-bit, the 7 deg. cutter has 2 flutes formed with an end-mill.

Thread: Abwood machine vise screw
27/10/2018 21:44:38

Years ago I repaired an old 4" Abwood by turning a new screw, 8 tpi was very simple on my Boxford. Doesn't need to be particularly tight tolerance on thread form, esp. if the nut is a bit worn. I used an HSS tool, hand ground.

I used mild steel which proved entirely serviceable for hobby use,although something like En8 might be a better material.

Thread: 2" steering chain
20/10/2018 15:27:53
Posted by David Bothwell 1 on 20/10/2018 12:09:08:

I am (trying to) find out the correct size of links for the steering chain on a 2" Durham and North Yorkshire traction engine. I have seen a post on here saying 2 m.m. but in the drawings it shows 11/32" as size (outer of links) both cant be right? Any suggestion gratefully received.

"Full-size" chain is commonly specified by the diameter of the wire used to make the links. Your measurements of 2mm and 11/32" are reasonably compatible in that sense would correspond to 12mm or, more probably, 1/2" chain.

Clive

Thread: Needle thrust bearings
17/10/2018 17:29:56
Posted by not done it yet on 17/10/2018 17:09:19:

Maybe you can enlighten why taper roller bearings always need careful adjustment for preload? Or am I misled on this operation?

Pre-load is required to ensure stiffness of the bearing assembly under load, esp. important with machine-tool spindles, gear shafts etc. Not so important with, say, vehicle wheel axles.

Bearing life is an inverse function of load, roughly a cube law I think. So there's a trade-off which needs careful control. Slight over-tightening can put large loads on the bearings.

Thread: Battery Glue
17/10/2018 14:32:53

I'd think of trying a hot melt glue gun. Might be an idea cut a vee-groove along the length of the crack if possible.

Assuming the case is plastic, as most seem to be.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 17/10/2018 14:40:46

Thread: Needle thrust bearings
16/10/2018 11:07:37

Long time since I read the GHT write-up, but I suspect that he saw the greater longitudinal stiffness of roller bearings as a good reason for fitting them to his Myford feed-screws, as much as the friction benefit perhaps.

Thread: Recommend an er11 chuck and collets
03/10/2018 08:32:32
Posted by ronan walsh on 02/10/2018 22:11:54:

Thanks all. Its for a mill, r8 taper, but a collet chuck that fits into a r8 collet would be fine, its just for drilling the occasional small hole. I would rather buy in the Uk or europe, its just quicker.

I you just wish to hold drills in the milling machine, why don't you buy a drill chuck on an R8 taper?

Clive

Thread: Motor needed
30/09/2018 19:21:36

I purchased my lathe motor and VFD from Inverter Drive Supermarket of Chipping Campden.

They stock motors and drives from 0.09kw upwards at good prices. No connection other than satisfied customer.

Thread: Efficiency - how measured, exactly ?
29/09/2018 18:03:53

Tim,

May I contribute my take on the points raised, based on reading about IMLEC, not participating.

Steam raising prior to the measured run is done with fuel that is not measured, so what is in the firebox at the start of the run is a bonus, cancelled out to some extent by what remains at the finish. AFAIK, charcoal is used initially, its lowish density presumably minimising the bonus.The before and after weights of fuel are not included in calculations. Although inexact, this seems to be a practical approach. Fuel losses during the run contribute to loss of efficiency of course.

The average draw-bar HP is listed in my latest copy of ME.

Specific fuel consumption and efficiency are different ways of measuring the same property, one is the inverse of the other and efficiency is of course dimensionless. That being so, multiplying the two will produce a constant, the value of which depends, amongst other quantities,on fuel calorific value etc. etc.

Clive

Thread: Boxford Model A backlash
29/09/2018 14:52:03

On my ME10, the dials are friction loaded. Under the grub-screw is a small spring and a brass disc pressing on the shaft.The friction pressure is controlled by adjusting the grub-screw,(hope my memory is correct).

Sounds as if your grub-screws are over-tight. Try slackening them. It's also possible that your springs and pads are missing.

Hope that helps,

Clive

Thread: Marine Plastic
28/09/2018 08:54:53

For a sailing-boat application, I'd consider Tufnol rod. Widely used for marine fittings, pulleys, rollers etc. Tough, weather resistant, easily machined and not too expensive.

Clive.

Thread: Repairing a Verdict Dial Test Indicator
21/09/2018 15:48:35

If my elderly Verdict, which has the formed wire helix, was sticking, I'd try a judicious squirt of very light lubricant before further dismantling.

clive

Thread: can anyone tell what this is
09/09/2018 20:34:07

One supplier of drawings and castings for Simplex is A J Reeves, another is Blackgates. If you can find one, it is also possible to build from the book by Martin Evans, which, I think, may include some minor details missing from the original drawings. Blackgates lists photo-copies of the original construction series.

Clive

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 09/09/2018 20:40:08

Thread: Small taps ME
07/09/2018 15:19:17

For bottoming small ME threads, eg 1/4" x 40, I made taps from silver steel threaded to the tip. Flutes milled in with the corner of an end-mill then hardened. Work well, even without sharpening, on items such as union nuts etc. Nowadays though, I'd probably just grind a commercial tap

Thread: A matter of trust...
06/09/2018 09:44:36

My "go-to" scribers have points from a gramophone needle set into a length of round bar. Cheap as chips so I have them scattered around the workshop. Lasts a long time, and I've still got a tin-full of needles.

Clive

Thread: Yesterdays Car Boot Haul! Odd items
03/09/2018 09:09:52

Isn't the Boxford item their take on a dial indicator?

Clive

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