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Member postings for Clive Brown 1

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Mill Spindle Readout
20/01/2019 12:01:40

Ahh! got it, I'd not tried a long press of the zero. Thanks to all, esp. John, for your replies.


20/01/2019 10:27:06

My recently acquired Warco mill has a digital readout on the spindle "Z" movement. It has 5 buttons. Functions of 3 are obvious, on/off; ins/mm and zero. The other 2 have an up arrow and a down arrow beside them. They seem to do nothing to the display. Can anyone tell me what they might be for?



Thread: What is this for ?
15/01/2019 23:03:52

It's a boring head designed by G H Thomas and described in ME in the '80s

I made one with MT3 and slightly bigger all-round. A good design typical of GHT.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 15/01/2019 23:04:30

Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch
14/01/2019 14:07:12

I would guess that hundreds of model Allchins, inc. mine, and similar have been built with gunmetal pistons and cylinders, as supplied by the trade.

Bear in mind that iron for either or both components requires more careful storage of the model to prevent possible rusting, more especially for one used only very occasionally.

Thread: Copper tube wall thickness & pressure withstood.
12/01/2019 15:30:11

!00 psi in 3/16" dia tube with .018" wall thickness gives a hoop stress of ~500psi. Peanuts really.

Thread: High Speed Sensitive Drilling Machine : 1909
12/01/2019 14:34:54

I make the equivalent cost now to >£3,500. Thank goodness for China!

Thread: USB memory sticks
31/12/2018 15:08:05

Intrigued by the low prices mentioned in this thread, I searched for "1 Tb memory stick" on Ebay. The description of the first item that I clicked on contained the following wording:-

"The capacity and speed can vary with a minimum of 8 GB useable capacity and upwards. The drives may display more memory being available but errors may occur once the maximum is reached."

This is for a 1TB drive priced at £13.45

Would you buy one based on this description?

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 31/12/2018 15:09:43

Thread: Fobco star chuck question
30/12/2018 18:44:25

Under the dial is the main spring, a plain washer 1.25" x 0.5" x 0.65" thick and a spring washer of  0.75" bore which locates on the OD of the dome nut. This washer provides the friction to set the dial, it's 0.023" thick and is curved only in the one plane if that makes sense.

I wonder if someone has made and fitted a non-standard quill to your machine.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/12/2018 18:55:01

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/12/2018 18:57:29

Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch
29/12/2018 09:15:42


I fully agree with virtually all of Paul's points above. The only point where I would differ is the suggested time.For the work that you are asking about, machining of the cylinder block, liner, covers, valve chest, valves etc and also the trunk guide and bracket would, IMO, take very much longer than Paul's suggestion of 8-10 hours min.

This work can however be readily carried out with fairly basic workshop facilities centred around a small lathe equipped with a vertical slide. Bill Hughes excellent ME series and also his book on Allchin construction go into great detail on achieving good results with just such limited equipment. Many constructors, including myself, have trodden this path.

My suggestion is therefore to obtain Hughes' written description in one form or another and consider whether to DIY.

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/12/2018 09:17:42

Thread: Fobco star chuck question
23/12/2018 13:39:26

My Fobco has a JT6 taper, which is perhaps the most common type. It doesn't have the threaded section as in your photo. I suspect that's unusual. Your chuck is unlikely to be original IMHO.

Wedges are probably best for chuck removal, though in the past I've found that using the machine for end milling is also effective.smiley

Just read on the Lathesuk website that JT33, which is slightly smaller, was sometimes used

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 23/12/2018 13:42:01

Thread: My ford lathe problem!
22/12/2018 15:52:10

Assuming that the switch is goosed and at the risk of upsetting the electricians, for a cheap solution, why not just a 13 amp plug and switched socket?

The reversing function is not very useful on a Myford 7, potentially a liability  with the screwed mandrel nose. (How do I know when I've got a Boxford? That's the reason for the only mark on my lathe bed.)

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 22/12/2018 15:53:20

Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 22/12/2018 16:01:35

Thread: injectors
22/12/2018 08:52:14

The series ran from ME issue dated 4/04/86 to 17/10/86. 13 parts in all. Recommended

D A G Brown's book "Injectors Inside & Out" (??), is equally useful.

Thread: Ever seen this "Drill Pad" as described by Workshop Practice Series?
17/12/2018 14:33:28

I have one that came with a Grayson lathe purchased in the '70s. Can't remember ever using it!

Thread: Is this Morse shank removable?
11/12/2018 21:53:04
Posted by JasonB on 11/12/2018 20:56:45:

10.2 - 9.6 = 0.6mm difference in diameter

10.2- 9.4= 0.8 gives 1:18.4 inc. taper

Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch
06/12/2018 09:13:22

I built an Allchin years ago, and over an extended period. I found the drawings good but Hughes' 2nd construction series in ME, which began well after I'd made a start, was very useful, especially for some of the "fiddly" small detail. This, for example, would include the water lifter and hose, but also plenty of other bits and pieces. I'd strongly recommend looking for this series, or the book.

In that series, he acknowledged that the original lubricator design couldn't be assembled, but I think that was the only significant drawing error.

During my build, the valve gear was criticised by, IIRC, John Haining in ME. Based on Haining's undoubted expertise, I re-made the eccentrics at that time, it must have been change of throw, but I no longer have the details. My Allchin seems to run OK, but, TBH, I suspect that so do many others that are made to the original dimensions.

The design makes for a very nice looking model, but not the easiest one to build or operate IMHO.


Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/12/2018 09:16:06

Thread: Western Steam
03/12/2018 11:39:52

My dealings with them about a year ago were entirely satisfactory. Prompt responses and helpful by 'phone and email.

The estimate of 30 months to fulfill an order surprises me.

Thread: toolpost motor
03/12/2018 09:10:54

I agree with JN1. I have a GHT sensitive drill and a Quorn, each using a 2800 rpm induction motor of about 100 watts. The drill takes up to 5/32" at around 2500 rpm, the Quorn uses up to 4" wheels at 5000rpm. The available power is just about adequate in each case. The Quorn takes only very light cuts of course.

Thread: Turning Welded steel
01/12/2018 18:47:05

I'm no welder but I've found that welds made with stick electrodes seem to show up as hard spots, even in mild steel, though usually machinable in my experience. AFAIK, rutile fluxes use cellulose binders. My "home-brewed" theory is that this could introduce some carbon into the weld metal, hence making it tougher and harder than the parent metal.

I can't recall ever trying to machine a mig weld, so can't comment on this.


Thread: Drill Chuck Falling Off
21/11/2018 21:09:14

If you're using the chuck to hold milling cutters, you're doomed to failure. The JT doesn't withstand the sideways loading and vibration. It's good for its intended use with twist drills which apply end load.

Ignore this if you aren't using milling cutters in it.

Thread: Lateral movement on revolving centre
19/11/2018 15:43:26

By lateral movement, do you mean the centre is moving along the axis of the body, ie telescoping?

If so, you may be able to eliminate this play by unscrewing the plug at the end of the morse taper. This could reveal a screw which retains the shaft in the bearings. Try tightenig it to remove end-play, Better still, dismantle, clean and re-grease.

Hope that helps.

Clive Brown.

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