Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: PROXXON LATHE|
I too don't know the lathe from direct experience, but the Axminster website quotes the speed range as 500-5000 rpm.
500 rpm is "quite fast" in lathe terms and will appear so to the eye. Having said that, modification to the control circuit by a knowledgable person might be possible for a fairly small reduction. Or perhaps different pulleys if you really need a lower speed.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 23/02/2020 09:26:31
|Thread: eccentric problem|
Perhaps an obvious question, but does the eccentric strap have a working clearance on the eccentric when the bolts are tightened?
|Thread: Myford ML7 headstock diameter|
My first lathe, a well-used 3 1/2" Grayson, had a 19/32" spindle bore which could be irksome. I put a 5/8" drill down it. This gave a useful improvement and I never saw any downside. The 2MT still gripped well if needed
Here's a link for switches. IDS also stock switch enclosures, 4-core shielded power cable, potentiometers etc for controlpendants
Inverter Drive Supermarket have all the switch-gear that you will need for making up a remote panel for a VFD. The components, eg pushbuttons, contacts etc are purchased separately and join together to give a wide range of switch types, push-button colours etc etc.
|Thread: This looks an interesting small milling machine|
The Ebay machine is clearly to the Westbury design, but some of the main castings appear to have been fabricated, so it doesn't use much of the poular commecial kit. Was that by MES of Sheffield?
The table looks to be definitely MES however.
A mk.2 design had an epicyclic gearbox for lower speeds.
|Thread: Location of Boxford serial numbers|
On my ME10, basically similar to your lathe, it is stamped on the bed near the right-hand end, very visible in fact.
A feature of the CSB, compared to mainstream models, is that the belt drive from motor to countershaft is single speed rather than double, so losing the upper speed range.
|Thread: Jaws in the chuck|
If the 9/16" hole is through-drilled, there could be a risk of hitting the chuck jaws if they are as shown in photo no. 2. Best to check.
|Thread: Tapping drill sizes?|
BSP threads are nominated in pipe sizes, which is/was akin to pipe bore. These sizes therefore do not refer to actual thread OD.
|Thread: Allchin 1.5" Injector Options|
As specified in the original Hughes' design, the injector has a side inlet for the water. The Polly injector might have that feature whereas most commecial offerings don't AFAIK. However, I 'm not suggesting that side entry is essential.
|Thread: Bending Stainless|
How deep is the flange? Are you hammering it ? Assuming it's 300 series stainless, ie non-magnetic, bending a right-angled flange of any depth will be difficult. The annealed sheet material starts off quite ductile, but work-hardens very rapidly. Annealing requires a high temperature. >1000 deg. C. Not easy in a home workshop.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/01/2020 13:10:28
|Thread: Machining stainless, lathe|
300 series stainless steels are non-magnetic, or virtually so, which allows for a simple test. They machine readily to a good finish but work-harden. Modest speeds but relatively high feed-rates and DOC avoid this. Also applies to drilling. Don't let the tool rub. For myself, I'd probably use HSS tool-bits, a sharp tool is needed.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 24/01/2020 08:48:38
|Thread: Only for Myford lathes|
Steve quotes machining speeds of 300 to 700 rpm. At, say, 2" diameter, 300rpm equates to >150 sfpm. This is high for HSS with an interrupted cut in hardened steel. The tool will rapidly lose its edge, then it's downhill all the way. I'd suggest no more than 100rpm.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 23/01/2020 08:57:21
|Thread: How to soften steel|
The "Backplate" that you have fitted to the 4 jaw chuck is actually a Catchplate, used with a drive dog in the slot, for turning between centres; but never mind. Might be more useful in its new role.
|Thread: Windows 7 support ends|
AFAIK, Office 2007 will run on Windows 10 but earlier versions probably won't. None is fully supported.
You could try the open source Libre Office, which is free, very poular, and is very like the latest MS office. It is compatible with Office documents, files etc.
|Thread: Drilling holes using pillar drill - work wobbling|
Are you using the same drill bits in both cases? I recently bought a "bargain" 1-12mm set of drills from my local engineering supplier. Most are OK but several of the larger ones are not straight. I first noticed this when using one in my Fobco. The hand-held workpiece wobbled about on the work-table. I don't think that this would have been too noticeable with a hand drill, but the rigidity of the bench drill showed it up.
|Thread: Driving Small Taps|
+1; mine's in frequent use for tapping. Much more convenient than any other method of starting a tap
|Thread: Silver Soldering Brass|
Propane is much to be prefered over butane. Sievert recommend 2 bar minimum gas pressure for their burners to work properly. This can be quite difficult for a butane cylinder to deliver in a cool workshop, especially as the gas evaporation cools the cylinder further. Propane cylinder pressure is much higher and the pressure can be regulated to a suitable figure.
Re Chis using borax for flux. My understanding is that Easyflo fluxes are better to work with as they have a lower melting point, are chemically more aggressive and more fluid. The time taken to melt borax allows the workpiece to oxidise more.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 15/01/2020 14:53:11
|Thread: Windows 7 support ends|
Although free upgrade from W7 to W10 nominally ended some time ago, there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that it's still readily available via the official Microsoft website. A free download and installation of W10 is officially activated based on the old W7 licence for the particular machine. Look for "Windows Media Creation Tool" This activation process is usually automatic. I wouldn't hesitate to try. Obviously you should back up your files first.
|Thread: rolling brass strip in the lathe|
Bear in mind that the set-up shown in Jason's post will leave a short straight section at each end of the strip, perhaps to cut off or re-roll after joining. GHT addressed this issue with his design in ME using pinch rollers. This much reduced this effect.
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