Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Martin Evans Royal Engineer|
As no one else has answered:- to the best of my recall, ME described RE in a series of articles which also included Royal Scot, Fury and (?) Leander as variations.
Reeves list most or all of the castings as applying to all 4 designs.
Don't remember the date, but I'd guess mid '80's.
Hope that helps.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 02/10/2017 19:05:51
|Thread: 5" TICH setting the quarterig|
Convention says RH crank leads, but doesn't really matter. On my Simplex I went for a very light, (not tight !) interference fit, smeared with Loctite 601. I did turn down a section of the length by 1 or 2 thou. to give clearance for the Loctite.
I added a "french key,". 1/8 inch dia. pin in hole drilled half in wheel hub, half in axle.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/09/2017 11:55:32
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 29/09/2017 11:57:32
|Thread: Pre-load of new bearings|
Is there a torque load that I could apply that essentially does the same thing? Anybody?
If it's any help, this topic has prompted me to look at my Boxford booklet. The headstock has 2 taper-roller bearings and Boxford recommend setting the pre-load, by adjustment of the end-nut to give a specified torque necessary to slowly rotate the spindle. This is measured with a length of string wrapped around a face-plate and a spring-balance. A torque of between 1 and 2 lb. inches is recommended, with the lower figure for higher speeds I've never actually tried this, so can't say how easy it is to accomplish.
The fit of the inner bearing rings on the spindle is described as a "gentle drive fit" and as said, the ring-nut provides the pre-load adjustment. If overtightened, Boxford recommend a "gentle tap with a rubber mallet" after slackening the nut.
I realise that your machine differs, but you might get some indication of what's required.
Pre-load from a defined angle of turn on the nut might be good, but suffers from the problem of knowing what that angle should be.
Pre-load from torque-tightening the nut would suffer the same unknown as well as, IMHO, be very imprecise.
May I make one further comment, from your description the bearing fit on your spindle seems tighter than I would have expected.
Hope that is helpful.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 22/09/2017 13:48:50
Point taken, not that I make a habit of dismantling my Boxford.
My offering was based on SKF general advice, but you are correct, the typical lathe headstock would not allow much of an interference fit.
Having said that, I think it would be a good thing to have a reasonably firm fit on the spindle, whereas the fit of the outer races isn't perhaps so demanding.
FWIIW, and based on my recall of SKF design advice:-
For a bearing fitted onto a rotating shaft, the inner ring should be a tight, interference, fit on the shaft, otherwise the ring will creep on the shaft. This would apply to a lathe mandrel.
The stationary outer ring needs only to be a push fit in its housing. It can then move to apply pre-load if required.
For a rotating load on the outer ring, the reverse is the case.
|Thread: Omron Yaskawa inverter|
As well as the above checks, it's conceivable that the pot. isn't giving a smooth resistance variation on the rotating contact. Easy to check with a DVM set to resistance scale. Disconnect the pot. first though!
Or check the pot. output voltage
|Thread: Boxford model a cross slide|
Boxford spares list a Tee-slotted cross-slide, part no. 3656-6A @ £100.22. , +VAT presumably.
I think that's for the older models, ie A, B, C etc.
|Thread: flexible tubing for steam|
Steam @ 60psi will be at least 150 deg. C. AFAIK this is considerably above the recommended max. for nylon air lines.
Silicone rubber tube would stand the heat OK.
If your worry is heat-loss, fitting a plastic tube as a jacket over a copper tube would help.
Snap with above post !!!
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 14/09/2017 18:26:53
|Thread: A cheeky/optimistic request - 7/8 20 tpi die?|
Tracey Tools refer to 7/8" x 20 as cycle thread, presumably where the OP is coming from.
if the pin area is the only problem, I wonder whether a small triangular file could be used to dress out the remains of the pin. The thread angle seems likely to be 60 deg.
|Thread: Metric coarse threads confusion|
AFAIK, APL is a well regarded manufacturer of stainless steel fasteners, so the OP is maybe unfortunate in having a "rogue".
FWIW, I've just measured an M6, A2 set bolt at 5.9mm dia.
|Thread: Bench Vice|
The Record 34 in this link is a steel vice. I've got one, which has served me well for many years.
Very difficult to break it!
|Thread: Pinning topslide on ML7/Super 7|
As a Boxford owner, I'm wary of entering hallowed Myford territory, but the Boxford top-slide fixing seems similar to the S7 with steel thrust pads bearing on a cone.
Can I suggest that brass might not be the best material for the pads. It may well spread where it's forced onto the cone and then, unless enough clearance is present in the drillways, they won't move outwards to allow top-slide removal. And your stuck!
|Thread: Boxford 3C collets|
As per above. Knocking out will work, but, if done carelessly with a bar of undersized diameter it risks damaging the small peg at the rear of the adapter which is provided to stop collet rotation when tightening.
I'm just suggesting that jacking off with the screw thread is safer.
If you do use 3C collets with the 3MT adapter on a Boxford, it's well worth while getting the threaded nose-piece that screws onto the lathe mandrel. Not only does it protect the chuck mounting thread and register, it acts as a very useful extractor for the adapter, which gets very tight in the MT.
|Thread: End Mill Sharpening|
Thanks for all the interesting comments. My cutters look like the one pictured by Stewart Hart, they could well be "keenly priced far eastern". They're just labelled "Clarkson"
I take aboard the comment that they won't cut well at their centre, so I think that a gash across the middle might be the best way. I haven't got a Dremel, so I might try mounting a 1 mm thick abrasive disc in the Quorn.
I'm sure Prof. Chaddock would have devised a method of restoring the full edge, but the set-up would be a very precise one, so I'll opt for the easy way!
In the olden days, most of the end mills that I acquired had a centre-hole which enabled easy sharpening of the end-teeth on my Quorn.
Recent 4 flute end-mills now seem to have a pair of end-teeth that run fully across the diameter, making sharpening as I did it before impossible, without leaving a pip in the centre.
The only way round that I can think of is to grind that one pair of teeth out of the way with, say, a saucer wheel, thus rather spoiling the cutter.
Is there a better solution? Or are all end mills now "throw-away".
Perhaps I should say that I'm referring to cutters of 1/2" dia. or less.
|Thread: Building the Minnie Traction Engine.|
L C Mason wrote a book on the Minnie, W J Hughes wrote on the Allchin, if you can get hold of either they would be a great help, but might be hard to find at a reasonable price. Alternatively, the Minnie was serialised in detail in ME in the early '70's IIRC. The Allchin was serialised twice.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 03/09/2017 11:08:06
|Thread: Flared Tender Sides|
Thanks for further info. Comments on valve gear duly noted. Fortunately, the changes don't seem to need too much re-working, so the job will be put on the to-do list.
Thanks for your responses. Some tips and encouragement there, I'm now inclined to try Julian's method. I was shying away from too much experimentation on expensive pieces of brass!
Should have said, I'm building the 6 wheel tender, I like the look of it better than the 8 wheel monster and I did think ithat there was less work in it. However Martin Evans only drew frames, wheels, axles and a side elevation so there's quite a bit of puzzling out to do. I've taken some photos of the example in York, so that's some help.
I'm working from the Evans "words and music", 1971 onwards. Unfortunately, he seems to have had a tendency for mostly describing the easy bits, leaving the harder parts to the reader
Question re valve gear:- I've made all the bits but later heard that it could be improved without knowing any details. I take it that the offset refered to is the 3/64" dimension shown on the expansion link drawing. What figure should that be increased to?
I'm starting to build the tender for the 5" gauge Princess of Wales. A problem that's occupying my thoughts is how to make the side and rear sheets for the tender, which have curved flares along the top edges. The curvature is about 1" radius. I'm intending to use 16g brass and I don't fancy my chances of producing an even curve along a 21" length. Not to mention the awkward rear corner joint .
One idea has been to cut lengths from a 2" diameter tube and attach by soldering, reinforced by the brackets for the coal-rails, but I'm open to suggestions.
Any advice would be gratefully received.
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