Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dore small boring bars|
The tube might not have been quite straight and / or the end faces not truly square.
To answer your original question, a carbide push rod of near maximum diameter for the drillway, would increase stiffness, but probably by an insignificant amount. Whether it would snap depends on the load that the cut imposes on the assembly.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 15/08/2017 16:29:52
|Thread: Boxford Lathe Big Bore Conversion|
Further to my post above, a bit of googling suggests that the ID of the bearings is 35mm, or 1,379".
leaving about 0.188" for a 1" bore. A bit thin I'd think.
The OD of the extreme end of the spindle on my ME10 measures 1.050", That measurement is also the tooth root diameter of the gear machined on the end of the spindle.
A 1" bore wouldn't leave much metal there.
Can't say how close you would get to the bearing inner races though.
|Thread: Forum Images|
Thanks folks, an area that I'm woefully ignorant on.
I think I'll have a play with that at some point.
Since following this forum, I've seen several images that seem to be computer generated specifically for a post. The one on key types seems the latest example.
How is this done please, is it some form of CAD?
|Thread: What horizontal mill is this please?|
I have a similar machine. According to Lathes.uk, Zyto, Pools and Bonds all offered mills of this general design probably made in the Derby / Sheffield area. Mine is labelled "Nottingham Machine Tool" Company.
Regards capabilities, lack of micrometer dials on the feeds is one handicap, but I've used mine for slitting saws and thin side and face cutters on the 1" arbor. Also fly-cutting the radius of smoke-box saddles for a couple of 5" locos, and using end mills as slab cutters. All in all it just about earns its keep.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 07/08/2017 21:45:41
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 07/08/2017 21:47:15
|Thread: Shaper Identity|
Can anyone suggest the manufacturer of this hand shaper? It's about 5 inch stroke and has the letters G H S cast into the rear of the main body.
An unusual feature is that the ram slides are square rather than dovetail,. The cross slide is similar but the tool-holder slide is dovetail.
I've looked on Lathes.uk website and emailed them, but without success.
There's no provision for auto-feed.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/08/2017 22:03:27
|Thread: Clarkson 5" Stirling Single|
A friend of mine started the Reeves/ Scarth model of the Single soon after they introduced it to their range. I picked up the drawings and castings on my then frequent visits to Birmingham.
It was a frustrating model to build. The drawings were riddled with errors, causing a lot of wasted effort.
Reeves were apologetic but really couldn't give much help. He eventually bought a set of Clarkson drawings to help him make progress. I've an idea that he also did some re-drawing of his own.
Presumably the Piddington drawings were a later result of this.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 04/08/2017 14:45:39
|Thread: Myford collet chuck - how to fit it?|
It's important that the collet and cutter shank are the same nominal size, this type of collet has very little size tolerance.
I wouldn't trust my Boxford collets to grip cutters really firmly anyway, I suspect Myford collets are little different. The ER collet system is much better for this sort of task I find.
Even so, the collet nut has to be really tight.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 30/07/2017 22:00:04
|Thread: Sealant Gun Thread|
i noticed some cartridges had v form threads others were more like a buttess threads - why i know not !
A buttress thread doesn't exert much, if any, radial load, so perhaps the reason is that it's less likely to burst the thinly made nozzle.
That doesn't explain though why they're not all like that
|Thread: NDT of thin wall tubing|
Don't think the sleeve idea will work. The signal will bounce off the interface, but no harm trying.
The 1.6mm false measurement might have been 2 bounces, which the machine won't know about.
|Thread: 19 TPI|
For a Boxford, if you happen to have either a 54 or a 60t change-wheel, replacing the 56t input gear will give 19.28tpi by setting to 20 or 18 tpi on the 'box.
That's been adequate for me for short lengths of thread.
Someone is selling 38t Boxford change-wheels, made of plastic, on Ebay, that would be a way to be spot-on.
|Thread: Retaining washers?|
Or Starlock push-on.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 10/07/2017 14:02:01
|Thread: Homeworkshop site problem|
Just tried it. There is a warning on the page to say that someone tried to force access to their server, but problem is now fixed.
W10 and Firefox.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 08/07/2017 08:48:07
|Thread: Loco wheel quartering|
I don't think it makes any difference to the running of the loco, but with the RH piston at rear DC, the LH crank should be down.
I think that's correct!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 chuck alignment issues.|
I use an old toothbrush to clean swarf out of my Boxford spindle -nose and the chuck backplate threads.
Dont really know the Myford, but I certainly wouldn't put a UNF die on the spindle theads. I'd expect it to be Whitworth form.
|Thread: Milling in a pillar drill|
There are some pictures and a description of the Fobco mill on the Lathes.uk website. Cutters were intended to be held in 2MT collets, a fine downfeed was fitted and also a compound table.
Fairly rare I would guess.
Incidentally, before I had a "proper" mill, I once tried to use an end-mill in the chuck of my Fobco. The chuck came off the Jacobs taper in very short order.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 03/07/2017 19:56:04
|Thread: New 21st century Concorde to be built within 5 years|
|Thread: Cheaper boring tooling suitability|
Thanks Neil, Jason and Ketan for your interesting input. Since my post yesterday, I've spent some further time trying out my 10mm boring bar. On the piece of mild steel that I was using I didn't make much progress.
I have a 0.8mm tip as well as the 0.4mm supplied with the bar which I tried. There was possibly some improvement, but not a great deal.
I then tried some aluminium bar and 316 stainless with the 0.4mm tip. Finish was much better, so some satisfaction!
I used moderate speeds for all cuts, and around 0.003" - 0.015" depth and 0.003" - 0.006" feed.
I therefore subscribe to the view that mild steel isn't always easy with carbide, a pity, since it's a staple material and I can usually wangle a decent finish on it with HSS or even silver steel tool-bits.
Maybe free-cutting MS would help, I'll try to get hold of some.
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