Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford Screwcutting box / Leadscrew binding|
Just to add a little to above; with the gear-train disengaged from the spindle, and the saddle and cross feeds disengaged, the input shaft of the gear-box should turn easily by hand. With the lead-screw rotating check that it isn't slightly bent. Temporarily slacking off the 2 bolts holding the R-H lead-screw support allows a bit of float if the lead-screw is binding. It's a fairly close fit through the saddle gear, which supports it.
Does the saddle easily traverse the full length of the bed by hand?
Don't try to remove the gear-box yet, but it should be possible without removing the headstock, ball-ended allen keys are a help for the 3 screws into the top of the 'box.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 13/03/2019 08:51:05
|Thread: Brook Cub 1/2 hp Motor - Capacitor or not?|
Some single phase motors are split phase start without a capacitor. As said, try it and see. They are at the cheaper end of the market and suffer from rather low starting torque and should not be started too frequently to avoid overheating the starting winding. Probably OK for a drill though.
|Thread: Beware new engine project!|
I've been thinking of the Centaur as a possible next project. Surely in the last 18 years, Reeves has sold this casting to a number of customers who have gone on to make satisfactory models. Why hasn't this issue been raised before?
|Thread: Hydraulic test set up|
I think there would be benefit from a stop valve between the pump outlet and the gauge. Isolating the pump from the boiler would eliminate pressure drop due to pump valve leakage.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 motor mounting|
Years ago I repaired a pair of resilient motor mounts for a Myford lathe by moulding using Devcon Flexane. Lasted very well but it's expensive to buy a retail quantity.
|Thread: 316 S29 TIG filler rods|
316 stainless is fairly tough stuff and work hardens readily, so it will give your die a fairly hard time. Mild steel would be kinder and brass would be even more so.
Alternatively, could you Loctite the pins into a drilled hole? Much easier than 96 x 12 BA threads .
|Thread: Plastic Balls in Bearings?|
Plastic balls are widely used for low friction bearings in marine applications, Torlon, a polyamide, is a common material.
|Thread: Warco Super - Major Vario inaccuracy|
Agreed, also lack of column squareness would not account for the error originally reported, which was measured by traversing the Y movement.
|Thread: Myford gear selection|
AFAIK, the standard Myford 7 change gear set comes with two 20T gears. They would be needed to set up 8 tpi. which is what you are effectively proposing to do
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 18/02/2019 13:51:54
|Thread: Using metric threads|
3/32" dia. material is a bit big for an 8BA die, especially stainless. 7BA would be a better thread which I've often used in conjunction with 3/32 dia. rod.
|Thread: Threading a bar for 6ba|
Have you considered buying 6BA threaded rod? Rather less hassle than DIY if you need any significant length.
Lots of hits on google/Ebay in several materials.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
IIRC, the Hughes' construction notes recommends 1/8" dia. PB threaded 5BA. Brass nuts are silver soldered onto the threaded rod to form dummy studs which can then be treated as hex. head bolts whilst having the correct appearance.
I suppose M3 could be substituted for 5BA.
|Thread: Very soft stretchy rubber grommets, where from?|
Could you use self-amalgamating rubber tape?
|Thread: myford machine vice thread|
Mine, dating from the about the '80s, is 3/8" BSF; ie 20 tpi.
|Thread: Fitting a Reversing Switch to a Motor on a Myford Lathe|
I suspect that you can't reverse that particular motor, but be careful what you wish for. I have a lathe with a screwed mandrel nose, a Boxford. The only scar on its bed is due to having a reversible motor.
|Thread: Who was W.J. Hughes|
He was a respected contributor to ME in the '60s/ '70s. Mainly known for very detailed constructional series for 1.5" scale Allchin TE. At the time of his death he was describing a Marshal(?) portable engine. I think that he acted as a ME Exhibition juudge for road vehicles.
AFAIK he was a schoolteacher by profession, lived in Sheffield area.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 31/01/2019 16:24:25
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
I'll stick my neck out a bit but I suggest that your error won't be too serious. If the distance between the outer edges of the 2 inlet ports is correct, then basic valve timing will be OK. What you will have is a narrower sealing land between inlet and outlet ports, which might allow a bit more live steam to pass directly to the exhaust. This is not ideal, but not a show stopper.
Others might see it differently.
|Thread: Holding sheet metal on milling table|
Soft solder, or perhaps superglue, onto a larger, thicker piece of brass?
|Thread: Mill Spindle Readout|
Sorry, thanks to Nigel for his explanation.
Ahh! got it, I'd not tried a long press of the zero. Thanks to all, esp. John, for your replies.
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