Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford newbie|
I agree that a 127 gear is large, although the standard Boxfords do accomodate one easily enough. I was trying to highlight that although 64 is close to 127/2, 54 isn't so very close to 100/2, so the Boxford conversion gears for the VSL lathe is not simply a case of halving the size of both gears to give a "near-enough" ratio,.
Boxford supplied 64/54 for imperial to metric gearing for the VSL model as against 127/100 for the A/B/C lathes, ie a noticeably different ratio The handbook gives the necessary gearbox settings for the A ( gearbox) model, but not for the VSL, which are presumably different. (All VSL lathes have a gearbox). I don't know if the respective gearbox internal ratios differ between the A and the VSL.
The handbook emphasises that the 127/100 gear is exact, so it seems surprising if they compromised on their top-of-the-range model.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 27/03/2022 18:48:49
|Thread: Tapping straight|
The "ultimate" solution is a universal pillar tool, designed by George Thomas and available as a kit from Hemingway.
I use mine constantly.
As an cruder alternative, hand start the tap with it held in a pillar drill chuck if you have one or drill a small block of some material with a clearance hole, rest it on the workpiece and use that as a guide for starting the tap.
|Thread: Boxford Ball Oilers|
Some success, managed to prise one out this afternoon without destroying it. Like on Richard Millington's 280 it's 1/4", with a very small flange which isn't obvious when pressed in. Seems to be plated steel.
Imperial sizes don't seem to be easily available but RDG appear to stock them. Firstly I'll see if I can restore the faulty ones as suggested.
Thanks for the contributions.
|Thread: Newton Tesla Motor units|
I just set my VFD to show motor rpm. Then when it's showing ~1450 I know that the spindle speed is as per the plate on the headstock. For different motor speeds a rough mental calculation is going to be near enough for any practical purpose. I did initially fit an eBay hall effect cheapo but I now hardly ever bother to switch it on.
|Thread: Boxford Ball Oilers|
Two or three ball oilers, (is that the best term?) on my Boxford seem to have lost their springiness. Does anyone know the size I would need to replace them? The name of a possible supplier would be useful.
Measurement of the visible bit gives about 7.2mm or 9/32" dia. which seems an odd size and there doesn't seem to be a flange, they're almost flush.
I assume removal of the oiler is done by tapping a screw into it and pulling, is that correct?
Should say that the existing ones look to have aluminium bodies.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 16/03/2022 12:20:00
|Thread: yet another angle plate|
Hi Fabio, the angle-plate in your 2nd. link does give a mounting slot dimension of 110mm. Isn't that the dimension you are interested in?
I have a similar, but slightly larger angle-plate. It's sturdy enough but when fastened down to the mill table it will only adjust to about 42 degrees maximum, and that's only after I modidied itl. To go to the full 50 deg. of its scale requires a spacer about 10mm thick underneath the mounting foot.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 14/03/2022 20:28:07
|Thread: First Lathe - Colchester Triumph (1960s roundhead) vs Warco WM250v|
Best of luck with the Myford, hope it's a good 'un.
I wouldn't be too concerned about reverse drive. With the screw-on chuck arrangement of the Myford, it's a good way of accidentally allowing the chuck to detach from the spindle.
In 40+ years of Boxford ownership I've never found reverse really necessary. A good mandrel handle is all that's needed.
|Thread: Loco lighting brackets|
There's a BR(W) pattern loco. lamp currently on eBay. The door to access the wick is at the rear so the mount goes at the side. Good ol' GWR design!
|Thread: Piping for chime whistle|
In "Shop Shed & Road" LBSC seems to use nothing bigger than 1/8" dia. for his whistles so 1/4" should be plenty.
Incidentally, he tells that he used his 5-pint blow-lamp as a compressed-air source for testing the notes.
|Thread: Carbon Steel vs HSS Taps & Dies|
I've always preferred HSS taps, if I can afford them, as I understand that they are usually ground to shape. My belief is that this should give a better thread form and also allows back relief to give better cutting. My stock is about 50/50.
|Thread: I need to screw cut a 19 TPI thread.?|
The standard Boxford changewheel set doesn't include a multiple of 19T so exactness is probably not possible.
My notes for my ME10 say I have used 36T on the stud gear and 60T on the 'box input. The 'box set to 32tpi should then give 19.05 tpi if my arithmetic is correct.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 27/02/2022 18:46:49
|Thread: Number stamps quality.|
Arnold Throp was a senior man at Pryor in Sheffield. His stamping ground so to speak.
I've made my small lubricator ratchet wheels in the lathe. The process requires a means of indexing the chuck using, say, a change-wheel attached to the back-end of the mandrel and a plunger detent.
Turn the end of a piece of silver steel to the required diameter. Drill and partially part off. With the silver steel still in the chuck set up a suitably ground HSS tool at centre height in the tool-post and cut the ratchet teeth by traversing the lathe carriage as with a shaper and indexing for each tooth. Works very well giving accurate, well formed teeth for wheels of a range of diameters.
Finally part off and file or broach square centre hole then harden.
Didn't W. Hughes suggest this method for the Allchin?
|Thread: What are these connectors called?|
The component indicated in the photo. doesn't look like any Scotchloc that I've used. Seems to be the male half of a 2-pin connector, but I don't know the spec.
|Thread: Allchin compensating Centre|
Running with only 1 large bevel is not really a very demanding test. The 3 smaller wheels can each take up their own mesh positions independently of each other.
As I see it, only when the 2nd. large bevel is also in mesh do all 5 bevel gears become interconnected and errors will cause binding.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 18/02/2022 13:36:22
|Thread: A Lightweight Husky|
I made mine to the imperial dimensions in the magazine and it fitted together OK. Can't think where the 3/32" could come from. I did at first wonder if you had turned the con-rod so that the big-end boss took up that dimension, but it's 1/8". The cam and valve rod centre lines would be displaced if you moved the inboard bearing.
Other changes I made wouldn't affect the bearing position.
|Thread: Allchin compensating Centre|
If the mesh is too close, very small inaccuracies will cause tight spots. Try easing the large gears very slightly further apart, I found that a very slight easing of mesh made a big difference. There is a limit to how far this can be taken of course.
Hughes gives quite detailed advice on the machining, including a drilling jig.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 17/02/2022 19:29:06
|Thread: Stirling single build notes|
Is it a Reeves 4-2-2? Their original Scarth drawings were very poor but they were revised later on.
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