Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New three jaw chuck suggestions|
I have a PB 4" Grip-Tru, purchased new, on my Boxford. It's not a bad chuck but I don't think I'd buy again. It's fairly awkward to adjust and if set accurately for a particular diameter it's not spot-on for a different diameter.
I find a 4-jaw independant quicker to adjust, but obviously needs to be set every time.
Basically I just use it as an ordinary 3-jaw, no better or worse than my PB 5".
|Thread: EN3 bowing after machining|
Is it bright drawn material, 'cos that will be worse than hot rolled? You could have reduced the thickness to14mm by taking 3mm from each side of the bar.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 12/11/2019 20:00:12
|Thread: Cutting stainless steel rod. Bandsaw or chopsaw?|
I can't imagine an Aldi bandsaw blade lasting very long cutting an austenitic steel such as 303. I'd consider an angle grinder for that purpose. OK for non-ferrous and ordinary steels though.
|Thread: new computer|
No doubt that an SSD is much faster than a traditional HDD, this speed is most noticeable in machine boot-up time. An SSD is perhaps best used in conjunction with an HDD with the OS and programmes on a fairly small SSD for speed and cost effectiveness with data stored on a larger HDD .
The OS can be cloned as back-up if you so wish, but Windows 10 OS is readiy available as a download for re-installation on a machine that already has a legitimate activation code
|Thread: sievert cyclone burner|
Not used one myself, but I have a friend who has used one for just the reason that you say on boilers that he has made. He finds it very satisfactory AFAIK.
|Thread: MINNIE TRACTION - Steam link between Cylinder Block and Boiler|
If the total cross-sectional area of the holes is comfortably larger than the exhaust blast orifice area, I'd think that was OK.
Re the boiler in the photo; ideally I'd put the holes on the boiler vertical centre-line if possible to maximise the height above the water level.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
I'd definitely try to remove it. Nitric acid, brick cleaner or alum will do the job. Search this site or google for "broken tap".
|Thread: Jacobs model 6414 chuck - removal|
Try putting say a hex. allen key in the chuck, or the chuck key, if it has one, in one of the 3 holes and giving it a whack. with a mallet. Don't overdo it though.
Just looked at the link, seems to be no key.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 27/10/2019 13:53:32
|Thread: Boxford metric lead screw fitted to imperial lathe?|
The overall leadscrew length of a model B/C 22" crs. Boxford is 44" approx. and 6" shorter for a model A.
The longer leadscrew can be shortened in order to fit a gearbox, using the lathe itself.
If you change the leadscrew for imperial, then you will have a fully imperial lathe for which the 127/100 gear will then give you a full metric range. The replacement leadscrew should really be matched to imperial half-nuts, but wear just might take care of that if the existing ones are indeed metric.
As the lathe stands, as JasonB points out, you should get a number of metric pitches, with no cost involved, The 135/100 gear is intended for a fully metric lathe and will need some thinking out if used with your imperial 'box.
PS, if buying a leadscrew, some early AUD lathes were 16" centres, with correspondingly shorter leadscrews, but they are mostly 22".
|Thread: Silicon piston ring|
A few sellers on Ebay offer silicone O-rings of 26mm OD. 3mm & 4mm cross-section. Either red or translucent food grade.
|Thread: Coke for brazing purposes|
A benefit of using coke would be the extra heat generated by its combustion. This might be less useful now with the availability of poweful propane torches, compared with the fearsome 5 pint blowlamp of old.
|Thread: VFD Instructions|
Thanks for responses, seems reasonably encouraging. I've now had further replies from two Ebay vendors. They each say that they will ask their supplier, presumably in China, if instructions are included. I'd have thought that they could at least opened a box and looked. Doesn't bode too well for prompt product support if needed.
Re Paul White's question; I'm no expert but, within reason, I don't think a VFD rating somehat greater than the motor power will cause any problem. The VFD parameters may be settable to the motor size.
I'm thinking of buying a cheap (new, £50ish ) VFD from Ebay. Do these items, listed as "unbranded" generally come with programming instructions or is it a case of buyer beware, any experiences?
I've tried emailing the UK? suppliers but no definite answer as yet.
|Thread: Axminster SU1 Horizontal Mill|
I owned an SU1 for a while. As a vertical miller I found it an effective machine, accurate and fairly sturdy, albeit, as said, with limited height under the spindle. The mounting of the spindle on the sliding overarm could be useful for some set-ups to gain extra throat depth.
As a horizontal miller I was less impressed. The minimum speed was rather high at ~200rpm, at which point torque was low and rotational speed was becoming uneven. I found that steel could be usefully cut only with fairly small slitting saws, although, obviously, more was possible with non-ferrous metals.
A point to note is that the spindle and motor assembly is fairly hefty and needs to be slid into a close-fitting bore for the horizontal set-up. To do this, I needed to be able stand at the rear of the machine, so positioning it close against a wall would make for very awkward handling.
|Thread: Help with a boxford c|
+1. I ran my ME10 from new with a 1/2 hp single phase motor with no real issues except perhaps using large drills, say 20mm +, into steel at the higher speeds. Then it was probably belt slip rather than lack of motor power.
After 40 years use, I changed to a 3/4 hp 3 phase + inverter. Again no problems.
|Thread: Water Lifter Hose|
For the 1 1/2" Allchin, W Hughes described wrapping tinned copper wire around 1/4" rubber tube. He suggested grey tube, which is not common, and fuse wire, 10 or 15 amp, I forget which, but it's 0.015" dia or 28 swg.
His method was to wrap 3 lengths of wire side by side, then remove 2, to give the spacing.
|Thread: Ebay site changes for the worst|
i've never received such an offer based on my watch list. Indeed, when I've had items listed for sale, I've not been aware of who the watchers were or how to contact them. TBH, I'd be suspicious of a scam, or at least, an attenpt to circumvent Ebay's rules.
Add:- just looked at Ebay page, maybe this is a fairly new legitimate feature, so above comment is incorrect.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 18/09/2019 10:02:47
|Thread: Quorn Mk3|
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/09/2019 15:38:07
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
What tool are you using for the turning? For that diameter of work, a very sharp tool is needed, well honed HSS or, if a carbide insert, then one with a ground finish, sold as intended for aluminium etc. The ordinary coated inserts for steel are not sharp and will cause too much deflection of slender work.
Incidentally, 4 BA spec. is 3.6 mm OD if you're making studs as tight as possible.
Hope that helps,
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 03/09/2019 19:19:35
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