Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford 'Between centre boring bar'|
Seems like it's been discussed before:-
|Thread: Clive Sinclar|
I purchased an X10 when they were introduced. The price was about a £fiver. I don't remember it being available as a kit. My main recollection was that the performance was poor with very obvious audio distortion. When it came to the end of its fairly short life it was "dissected" at my workplace. The transistors all proved very much out of spec. Probably manufacturers' rejects. In those days Sinclair clearly built his equipment using the cheapest components that he could source.
|Thread: Recommended Vice for Double Swivel Milling Slide|
I have an elderly Myford vice, identified as an MA71, seemingly similar to the ones currently sold by Myford as their original small vice, but now in a choice of colours, and each with a different reference no.
The hold-down slots are 1 9/16" (1.562" ) apart which think is, or was, Myford tee-slot spacing.
My vice has been useful over the years, but there may now be better ones on the market.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 15/09/2021 09:33:18
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 15/09/2021 09:34:24
|Thread: Win 10 back t0 Win 7|
|Thread: Multimeter recommendations|
My goodness! Buying "quality" to ensure reliability costs. RS will sell you a Fluke for no less than £459. or £500+ with a certificate No thank-you, but perhaps that's what the OP wants.
Can't remember when I bought my sub £10 cheapie, but more than 20 years ago I guess. I could buy 50 more for less than the cost of one Fluke. Those would last me to beyond 3021 AD.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 07/09/2021 19:17:47
Ebay has a wide selection at <£10 that will tick your boxes. I bought one years ago. It's done all I want of it with no problems. A useful extra is to buy a pair of croc. clips that push onto the probes, often not included with these cheap meters.
My main criticism is that the leads are on the stiff and springy side. I believe that silicone rubber makes for greater flexibility if you can find a meter so fitted.
|Thread: Win 10 back t0 Win 7|
+1 for Windows 10. I have gone through most iterations of Windows and W10 is the best so far IMO. It's stable, versatile and user friendly. I regularly download images and video either direct from my camera and 'phone via USB or via the card reader built into the PC.
In either case Windows sees the device as external storage and files will transfer either way with no issues at all.
Linux, I've given it a whirl. It's limited and for geeks!
|Thread: Bench grinder - wheel grit|
For HSS grinding in my home workshop, toolbits say 3/16" to 3/8" and drills, I mostly use a 60 grit wheel. 80 grit would also be OK I'd think. The finish can always be improved with a slip-stone if necessary.
IIRC, my coarse wheel is 30 or 40 grit. It's used a lot less than the finer wheel, but useful for initial shaping.
No need to dry the steel after cooling.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/09/2021 15:58:55
|Thread: Urgent - opinions of lathe I am going to view/buy|
Boxford did make a 16" between centres model, but I don't think that was specifically for schools. The paint is not original IMO. The short bed and CUD spec. both detract from the desirability. Also it doesn't look as if it's had "one careful owner". One very common problem with old Boxfords is broken back-gear teeth, otherwise they are robust machines. If I were at all interested I'd put in an offer considerably below the asking price.
It's not impossible to find spare gearboxes etc, but they come up very infrequently and can be pricey. I wouldn't see that as a practical option.
If you bought it, what about transport? Two fit people could detach the lathe from the cabinet and load it into a car boot but the cabinet itself is heavy and awkward. You'd really need a van or trailer.
Try to download Boxford's manual. This will give more details of the bits and pieces that should be with the machine.
|Thread: 5” Rotary Table/Tailstock/Chuck Kit Info/Questions|
The chuck is self-centering.
|Thread: Sheet metal saw.|
I start the cut using a standard hacksaw frame, then use the sheet saw when the plate is sideways supported by this initial cut.
|Thread: A SIMPLE POINT !|
And in 50 years , (on and off), of model engineering, I can't really recall one instance of it making much difference.
|Thread: Choosing a boring head|
If the OP wants to save £100+ on a boring head then Harold Hall has a design and build article on his website.
The instructions for making it are very clear and the cost of materials is negligible.
|Thread: boxford lathe upgrade?|
I upgraded my 5" ME10 from "B" to "A" spec. by fitting a gearbox from an older 4.5" lathe. No problems, the main job was shortening the leadscrew to connect to the gearbox output shaft. As it will pass through the spindle, machining was straightforward.
I assume that the "C" lathes have the necessary drive keyway in the leadscrew even though the longitudinal feed uses the half nuts.
|Thread: Silver solder flux has dried out.|
Since the datasheet that you link to says the flux is a water mixture, I'd say that adding a bit more won't do any harm
|Thread: Allchin help|
On my drawings, the dimensional details of the brackets are to the right on the image above, ie just off-screen. They are the same as posted by Jason except the angle is given as 31.5deg.
These drawings were purchased from Reeves in the '70s.
|Thread: Best material for smokebox construction|
The two 5"G. loco smokeboxes that I've constructed have been 1/8" brass, which seems a common material.for that purpose.
|Thread: DIY Compression spring|
I wouldn't bother with any heat treatment. The Quorn makes minimal demand on that srpring in terms of cycling etc. As long as it very approximately meets the Prof's spec. of about 10lbs. force without coil binding then it will be OK.
Mine's probably a bit light and does not overcome the static friction of the bar until it's rocked, but that's never been a problem. Might even be helpful if too much cut is inadvertently put on, so don't make it too strong.
|Thread: Centaur Inlet Valve Dimensions|
Thanks Michael, that's given me some reassurance.
I was aware of the connecting rod error from an article in ME Nov. '75 describing a Centaur build which mentions it, but then goes on to say that this is the only drawing error apart from the cam timing. Hence I'm surprised that this seemingly serious valve error wasn't identified, making me think that I might be missing something.
Work on my Centaur has met a snag. I've machined the cylinder head and associated valve gear and started trial assembly. The exhaust side of things seems OK, but not so the inlet valve.
The initial problem that I noticed was that the inlet valve housing is too long to allow the spring cotter to assemble to the valve stem, see attached image. Moving the cotter groove 3/64" along the stem would solve this but the whole assembly is still too long to fit properly under the valve rocker. It seems that the valve and housing both need to be shortened by at least 1/8" to allow proper valve & rocker geometry. If this is a drawing error then I'm surprised in such a well established ETW design. I'm fairly confident that my cylinder head and other componens are to drawing dimensions.
Can any other Centaur bulder advise please?
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