Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford Cross slide|
The reference to the cylindrical plug with angled end will arise from the plugs that clamp the swivelling top-slide into the cross-slide. The clamp screws themselves are 3/8" whitworth grub-screws on my lathe.
|Thread: Warco GH 18 Milling Machine|
Warco's sales blurb make no mention of variable speed for the GH18, just 6, presumably fixed, speeds, so the VHD does not seem to be used for that.
They do however say that a new function is auto reverse for tapping. Could the VFD be a way to achieve this electrically?
|Thread: Boxford X10 taper|
I have a Boxford ME10. It came with screw adjusters built into the feet, a 1/2" Whit thread. In my experience you cannot hope for the lathe to turn parallel without using these.
Post removed, I thnk that I was over optimistic.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 20/02/2021 14:39:05
|Thread: O ring groove profile|
Tubal Cain's "Model Engineers Handbook" covers O-rings and groove sizes. Quite a useful reference for data that's otherwise not too easy to find in suitable form fot models.
|Thread: Martin Evans, Royal Scot in gauge 0 - Walkerite sheet?|
Martin Evans, in his book "Manual of Steam Locomotive Construction" suggests putting thermal insulation between frames and cylinders of smaller models, adding to the effect of lagging the outsides of outer cylnders.
The material he mentions in his book is "Hallite". Similar to Walkerite AFAIK.
|Thread: Parting 1 1/2 phosphor Bronze|
I've bought drawn, as opposed to cast, phosphor-bronze. It seems to have a more coppery colour than the cast material. Another feature is that it can be considerably more difficult to machine, especially noticeable when drilling. The drawing process leaves high internal stresses in the material. During machineing these stresses bring about minor distortion causing the tool to rub heavily.
Maybe the OP's material was a bit of this stuff.
|Thread: Adhesive for foam insulation|
I've used contact adhesive for foam backed vinyl. An aerosol spray-can is very easy and convenient for applying adhesive onto the foam and the normal liquid adhesive applied to the solid surface.
|Thread: M2 x 2mm brass grub screws - do they exist?|
Just a thought. If stainless is heated in a flame it turns a straw colour. Could this effect be used to satisfy your aesthetic sensibilities?
Also they'd be a lot stronger than real brass.
|Thread: Boxford Screwcutting|
Sorry, but the info. above is incorrect. For 8 tpi on an imperial lathe, the stud gear is 20 T, The screw gear is 56 T. The recommended idler is 80 T.Any small gear can be used as a spacer on the screw.
To get the coarse threads, 7 tpi and less, the screw gear is 40 T.
These arrangements are show as a diagram on page 65 of my copy of "Know Your Lathe".
|Thread: Warco 16B Mill Tachometer|
Doh!, just realised my last comment was nonsense. The machine has two belt positions, so the tacho must sense direct from the spindle. I'll have another look.
Thanks. I may be wrong, but I think that the signal is derived from the PCB, it's a brushless motor BTW. There doesn't appear to be a pick-up near the spindle.
The tacho on my Warco 16B has stopped working. The display lights up but the reading remains at zero. I can find virtually no information on the circuitry. Just an on-line schematic showing the display connected to a "controller pcb"
The mill is otherwise working as normal.
Any suggestions for investigation / repair gratefully received. If not then it's a call to Warco tomorrow.
|Thread: Stuart compressor ( or vacuum pump)|
You could use a refillable butane container, ( small camping gaz or calor ) , or even possibly run the airbrush directly from the compressor. You will have to arrange air pressure relief and a regulator, plus oil and water traps.
By the time you've added a motor and drive, the result will be quite heavy, noisy and inconvenient. I've been down a somewhat similar route.
I realise this goes against ME "tradition" but instead of buying those bits and pieces for a DIY solution, I'd consider putting the money towards a small, self-contained, oil-free compressor marketed especially for air-brushing. That's what I eventually did, money well spent.
|Thread: Whats this Tool? Workshop find.|
Reminds me gadget somewhat like that for aero-modellers to cut sheet balsa wood into narrow strips. I don't remember a multi-bladed one though.
|Thread: valve timing help needed!!!|
As Jason says, but the OP seems to be not too far away at 90 deg. In that case I'm surprised that the gear jams up, which suggests something might be wrongly dimensioned.
|Thread: Airbrushing Humbrol and Enamels|
Over the years I've sprayed quite a lot of Humbrol enamel thinned with white spirit using mainly a Badger 250 and, a lesser amount, with a DeVilbiss air brush. Also cleaned these tools with white spirit. No problems have shown up.
I think the choice is between "hand reamers" with a lead-in taper, or "machine reamers" which are entirely parallel. The latter need to be used in a lathe or drilling machine and can ream blind holes as well as through holes.
The choice is yours, but I'd suggest that hand reamers are the most useful in model engineering.
Buy as you need, good reamers are not cheap. They are useful in certain circumstances, producing a closer sized hole with a better finish than drills. Shop-made D-bits can often do as good a job.
I happen to have a range of adjustable reamers, but they are amongst the least used tools in my workshop.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 25/01/2021 21:35:30
|Thread: So Much For CE Labels!|
Need some CE labels? Cheap as chips on Ebay. All styles.
|Thread: BSF vs BSB threads|
An explanation for Brass Thread that I've heard, but never really seen confirmed, is that the 26 tpi came about from hand-turning of small brass fittings. The turner only had to repeat the same tool movement for any thread diameter.
Possibly a better explanation is that lathes needed only one change-gear set-up.
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