Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Trembling laptop|
Does the fan change speed when you disconnect the power supply? Could it be a resonance?
|Thread: Soldering Minnie wheel hubs|
Odd that one hub was successful. Cleanliness of the joint area is very important wth soldering. Another observation is that if your MAPP torch is like mine then the flame is quite small but intense, could be locally overheating and burning the flux. Keep it moving.
I don't think measures to create a joint gap should be necessary.
Hope that helps.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 07/07/2020 09:54:23
|Thread: Boxford motor help|
The 1 hp motor will always have more grunt at whatever speed, but hobby lathes are rarely taxed to the limit of motor power or torque.The beauty of the VFD is to give conveniently rapid speed control for the large majority of jobs. Don't forget that on the, probably, rare occasions that you do need lots of low-speed torque, the lathe pulley system and back -gear can always be used just as they would have been with the original, fixed speed motor.
|Thread: Weeds in a 'lawn'|
I'm no expert, but I've found selective lawn weedkiller quite effective. Weedol Lawn Weedkiller, used to be called Verdone, is one.
Looking at your photos, a good application might result in a rather bare area of ground, to be rapidly recolonised by weeds. Ground preparation and reseeding might be called for.
Lawn sand is good for moss.
Regular mowing helps curb weeds I'm told, (by my wife).
|Thread: Boxford motor help|
Is your lathe an underdrive or a bench model? I've got a bench type ME10. To go the VFD route, I found that the largest frame size motor I could fit without too much surgery of the mounting was a 71. I bought a TEC 0.75kW, 1440 rpm motor from Inverter Drive Supermarket. A 71 frame metric motor will have a 14mm dia. shaft, so the pulley needs to be sleeved You might find an imperial sized motor but prices seem to be higher.
If a CUD, can't really advise on motor dimensions.
A VFD makes lathe operation much more convenient IMO.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 20/06/2020 11:32:41
|Thread: boring head and tools|
If the OP is boring plastic, then home-made tools from silver-steel rod is plenty good enough. Can be sawn, bent, turned, filed and milled to any shape you wish. Ground after hardening. Cheap as chips.
|Thread: Fobco Star Pinion Shaft and spring|
On my Fobco, the large bore washer goes in place after the spring, then the wavey washer, then the graduated dial, then the dome nut. These 2 washers fit around the OD of the nut. The wavey washer allows friction adjustment of the dial when the nut is tight.
I've never pulled the spring out of the housing and I don't recall the "silver" washer. The drill was bought 2nd. hand but it's worked like that for 40+years.
Hope that helps.
|Thread: Jacobs morse taper chuck.|
Before you take drastic action, can you mount the arbour and chuck on thedrill/ lathe spindle then check the chuck body with a DTI, ie the part in which the key-holes are drilled? If that shows run out, then it's good evidence that the arbour is in fact bent. If not then the chuck jaws could be where problem is.
|Thread: Injector testing|
Bill Carter's test rig is described, in slightly modified form, in D A G Brown's book "Miniature Injectors Inside & Out"
He also describes a test-boiler.
A book worth getting by anyone considering making injectors.
Beaten to it!
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 19/06/2020 09:34:19
|Thread: White wheel for bench grinder ?|
I replaced the grey wheel on my bench grinder with a white wheel, both 60 grit. Can't recall the bond grades. TBH there doesn't seem great difference. If anything the white wheel is softer and doesn't seem to heat a HSS tool so much so I suppose that will be my slight preference. It needs dressing more often.
Edit, just noticedyour reference to carbide. A white wheel is definitely unsuitable, green is needed.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 17/06/2020 14:33:27
|Thread: More Windows 10 Shenanigins|
Although Microsoft officially ended their free upgrade offer several years ago, it's very widely reported in the computer press and online that, in practice, upgrading of a legitimate W7 or W8 installation is still free.
You need to download the official Microsoft upgrade tool and go from there. There's lots of information and advice on the web, to be found with Google.
If I understand correctly, you wish to use a generic tacho. similar to those offered on Ebay without the supplied sensor.
I looked into this on a Sieg mill that I used to own. It appears to be far from straightforward.The motor was DC, there's no speed -proportional frequency in the system so just wiring one in was not an option. The solution that I found on-line involved a micro-processor and code and hence over my pay-grade, so I fitted a magnet and hall-effect sensor.
Over to the experts.
|Thread: WM16 cutting conundrum|
The only reason I can think of for the OP's problem is that if the material is cold-formed, eg BMS, cutting the first side relieves surface stresses and causes the material to bend slightly.
|Thread: Why are injector pipe connections made with flat mating surfaces?|
I was going to suggest that it made them slightly easier to remove to investigate whythey weren't working.
|Thread: Parting off|
I find that the narrowest, 1/16" Eclipse blades jam readily, especially in mild steel. Soluble oil, just applied with a brush makes a noticeable improvement. The wider blades, 3/32" and 1/8" seem to be less prone to jamming, perhaps due to the chips escaping more easily.
Earlier comments re. geometry and set-up are important of course
|Thread: Simple(?) Milling Question|
All those methods will potentially work butI think that I'd try a 6mm end-mill, or slot-drill and then take a shaving off the side to open out to 1/4".
A 1/4" S&F cutter on mild steel is asking quite a lot for a light mill.
|Thread: rescuing a chuck|
If you insert each the broken jaws one revolution of the scroll "late", It should work I would hope. Not as robust though and a bit of a faff.
|Thread: Topslide vice for Boxford lathe|
That compound slide on Ebay is a very rare type, probably priced accordingly. This is the more common type that I was referring to, although they won't go cheap. Quite a bit more detail on Lathes.co.uk website.
I used a Myford VS when I first got my Boxford. I attached it using tee-nuts in the same way it would be attached to a Myford, but my Boxford has a tee-slotted cross-slide, which isn't universal. The Boxford VS has the tapered spigot so it drops in as a direct replacement for the top-slide. If you don't have a slotted cross-slide, adding a home-made spigot to the Myford VS might be the way to go.
The Boxford VS, sometimes referred to as the milling attachment, is a considerably better job than the Myford, and comes with an integral vice as well as a table, which can also each be attached to the cross-slide. Might be worth looking for a used one, although they tend to be a bit spendy.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/06/2020 09:27:34
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