Here is a list of all the postings Clive Brown 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Water Lifter Hose|
For the 1 1/2" Allchin, W Hughes described wrapping tinned copper wire around 1/4" rubber tube. He suggested grey tube, which is not common, and fuse wire, 10 or 15 amp, I forget which, but it's 0.015" dia or 28 swg.
His method was to wrap 3 lengths of wire side by side, then remove 2, to give the spacing.
|Thread: Ebay site changes for the worst|
i've never received such an offer based on my watch list. Indeed, when I've had items listed for sale, I've not been aware of who the watchers were or how to contact them. TBH, I'd be suspicious of a scam, or at least, an attenpt to circumvent Ebay's rules.
Add:- just looked at Ebay page, maybe this is a fairly new legitimate feature, so above comment is incorrect.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 18/09/2019 10:02:47
|Thread: Quorn Mk3|
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 06/09/2019 15:38:07
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
What tool are you using for the turning? For that diameter of work, a very sharp tool is needed, well honed HSS or, if a carbide insert, then one with a ground finish, sold as intended for aluminium etc. The ordinary coated inserts for steel are not sharp and will cause too much deflection of slender work.
Incidentally, 4 BA spec. is 3.6 mm OD if you're making studs as tight as possible.
Hope that helps,
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 03/09/2019 19:19:35
|Thread: Raglan Miller manual & dial removal|
Hi Chris, on mine the micrometer dial slides off the shaft after the woodruff key for the handle is removed. The dial itself is a friction assembly with its own key.
Hope I've remembered correctly and it's some help.
|Thread: Not Your Modern Lathe Tools|
Just a bit of UK industrial history, the large lathe tool marked ESC is a product of English Steel Corporation. They were largely Sheffield based and are now part of Sheffield Forgemasters. They used the logo EaiSCut on their tool-steel products IIRC. (geddit ?? )
The tool shown appears to have their Manchester, Openshaw Works marking
|Thread: 5 inch Stirling Single - Maker identification needed|
Reeves offer a design by J Scarth, who won an award with the original model. A friend of mine built one, but found the inadequacies of the drawings very frustrating. He eventually bought the Clarksons drawings, who offered their version, to supplement them, but I can't remember if he found them much better.
Although Clarksons seems to have passed on to Blackgates, the Blackgates Stirling single that they currently list appears to be a 2-2-2 by Martin Evans.
BTW, I can't see the springs in the photo above having much flexibility.
A thought has just occurred that I heard that the Reeves drawings may have been revised in later years, but I'm very uncertain of that.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 27/08/2019 08:57:52
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 27/08/2019 08:59:46
|Thread: ACME thread identification question.|
I've owned 2 Boxfords, both imperial, one of them from new. Both have 7/16" x 10 tpi LH single start feedscrews.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
Bill, I was thinking of a bronze insert with a very small countersunk head, rather like a c'sk rivet, the head to prevent it dropping through into the boiler but otherwise a small clearance fit in the hole and a fairly light c'sk on the boiler shell to provide a "run-in" for the solder. Drilling and tapping for the cylinder studs would be after blending the inserts and solder to the boiler shell.
One caveat; care would be needed for the initial drilling out the holes in the shell to ensure that the edge of the internal reinforcement plate doesn't deflect the drill. A slot drill might be best for this, but Derek might not have a suitable machine.
Derek, the boiler is definitely recoverable and since a kit alone costs nearly £700 it's worth a good try. I've indicated my suggested solution, which I still favour, although I realise that you will have to arrange the work with someone who can silver solder. The job, to such a person, is not demanding. Even a local engineering fabrication shop might have the expertise.
You'vealready shown some good work with limited resouces. If you carry on this track you will end up with a lovely model.
That's a real downer. You might just get away with it but at the risk of investing a lot of further effort only to find that the cylinder / boiler joint can't be well sealed. Also, a boiler inspector, assuming that he knew, might not be very keen on the departure from the published arrangement.
If you put in studs prior to mounting the cylinder, I think that you would find difficulty getting the studs through the cylinder flange unless you elongated the holes in the flange rather a lot and I don't see much real benefit.
My feeling is to consider drilling out the holes, say 6-7mm, countersink, and silver solder in 4 bronze bushes to be drilled and tapped. Not a too difficult job for someone who has boiler making expertise, and perhaps oxy-propane kit for localised heat. The bushes could be filed to blend with the boiler outer surface.
The existing threads need protection whilst soldering
Perhaps the local club has someone who can help. Best of luck.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 25/08/2019 09:03:18
|Thread: Thread sizes on flexispeed meteor lathe|
I owned a pre-war Morris 20 with that type of fastener. IIRC the 8mm thread size was 1mm pitch, finer even than BSF.
A fairly good visual guide to whether a fastener is BS or unified is the size of the hexagon. Unified fasteners have smaller hexagons, generally in 1/16" increments. BS fasteners don't follow this rule.
Eg; 3/8" UNC = 9/16" af hexagon; 3/8" BSW = 0.6", (later) or 0.71", (earlier) af hexagon.
Spanners aren't interchangable between the two systems.
Origin of the unified system is America and came into the motor industry post WW2.
Unified bolts often have a circular depression on the head, or at least, they used to.
Edited By Clive Brown 1 on 20/08/2019 11:08:53
Very probably Whitworth threads for that era. Especially if tapped into iron castings
|Thread: reversing gear|
Ah,sorry quite correct. I'm with it now.
The lifting link between the bellcrank and the expansion link seems to be omitted from the LH diagram.
|Thread: 5" gauge 'Metre Maid' cylinder piston stiff|
Perhaps the slide-bar is not exactly parallel to, or the wrong dimension from, the cylinder centre-line. That could be adjusted by appropriate shimming.
|Thread: 4 jaw chuck axial allignment|
I think you're asking a lot for many 4-jaw chucks, especially well used ones.
Can you arrange your machining sequence to drill an accurate centre hole in what will be the RH end of the workpiece? This might need a reasonably sized bore through the mandrel.
If so, grip the LH end in the 4-jaw, with not too much jaw engagement and adjust to run true while the RH end is centred by a tailstock mounted centre, preferably a live centre.
|Thread: Can Anyone Help Me to Identify This Very Old Boiler Please?|
I thought that as well as for cleaning, man-holes in full-sized were sometimes required for construction reasons.
eg; the proverbial "apprentice" would be sent in to hold the nuts for the cylinder mounting bolts, as in Jason's boiler.
|Thread: Should I begin with mild steel on lathe?|
Silver steel is high carbon, ~1% + chromium. As such it can be heat-treated to a very high hardness level and is useful for metal cutting tools, punches etc. etc Often supplied in accurately ground diameters.
"Carbon steel" is a fairly general term, often for steels of higher strength than mild steel. The carbon content is higher than that of mild steel and would be chosen to meet the design requirements. Carbon steels above about 0.3%C can be hardened by heat treatment .
Mild steel is ~0.1% C and cannot be hardened
The term is also sometimes used for non-stainless steel.
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