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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Looking for 3/32" SQUARE silver steel
01/09/2017 08:48:46
Posted by RichardN on 01/09/2017 08:27:05:

I'm so glad others get lost as to what composition different steels are!

Yes - I have to say I think there's a fair amount of kidology in it. In the tooling department I worked in, we generally got by with only about 6 steel types for everything from jigs and fixtures through compound and progression press tools to injection moulds:-

220M07 (BDMS)

210M15 (Case hardening steel)

BS1407 (Gauge Plate/Silver Steel)


BD3 (Abrasion resistant - punches/dies)

HSS (for cutting tools) - yes, there are various flavours of this, but not enough difference between them to make selection critical for most applications. I think we mainly used what's now known as M42.

01/09/2017 07:54:47
Posted by Dinosaur Engineer on 31/08/2017 21:09:36:

ground flat stock is a more refined steel than silver steel. G.F.S. has the additions of elements such as vanadium ...

Looks as if things have changed - back around 1980 when I worked in a tool design office, gauge plate and silver steel were both carbon steels to BS1407, and we didn't distinguish between them in detail drawings.

Now I see GFS uses O1 tool steel. Is this the same as the NSOH steel that used to be called BO1?

Thread: Is 3/32" round tool steel now unobtainable?
31/08/2017 17:33:04
Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 31/08/2017 16:19:30:

Hello Gentlemen,

I should have been more specific. I was really after HSS. Nigel B seems to have hit the jackpot with the Cromwell drill blanks. These are said to be HSS. But as they are described as drill blanks, I am not 100 % certain. One way to find out for sure I suppose!

Thanks everyone!


If they're hardened and ground all over without back taper, there doesn't seem much room for doubt.

Thread: Hydraulic Valve seat
30/08/2017 21:24:23

Well, the original was obviously fracture-prone. I'd try silver steel BS1407, untreated for a first go - then think about hardening it if the first one wears rapidly.

Thread: 65 but dare not retire
30/08/2017 17:49:34
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 30/08/2017 11:43:10:

Can anyone explain why Imperial Measure retains a following whilst Imperial Money is unloved? They both have the same advantages and, arguably, money was more logical.


Well, it's not difficult to have as many unit of measure systems as you like running in parallel with the conversion factors permanently fixed. The people who use the less 'official' system can choose to do so without inconveniencing anybody else.

Now imagine running parallel currencies... :D

Thread: Something exciting on its way...
30/08/2017 16:54:13
Posted by mechman48 on 30/08/2017 16:46:38:

Must have come from Oz... it's upside down on Jason's pic... face 20


Ah. I thought he was just joking about Yodel's compliance with the packaging instructions...

Thread: 65 but dare not retire
29/08/2017 19:13:40

I wasn't subscribing to ME in the 70s, but I think you'd've had to write a hardcopy letter and post it by snailmail back then... :D

Mars bars aren't 2 1/2p any more.

Thread: Beam engine piston ?
29/08/2017 10:45:12

Nylon 66 has a max service temperature of 180 C for short periods, 95 and 80 for 5000 and 20000 hours continuous respectively. I'd guess it *might* be just OK.

Delrin maxes out about 82 C, so I'd think not.

Whereas PTFE is OK up to just over 200 C, so it's clearly better if you can get it.

Why not brass with a greased string packing ring?

Thread: New Moore & Wright any good?
28/08/2017 18:47:01
I've had one of the budget line metal M&W digital calipers for about 2 years and it's fine. The view of it given in MEW a couple of months back matches my experience.
28/08/2017 18:46:59
I've had one of the budget line metal M&W digital calipers for about 2 years and it's fine. The view of it given in MEW a couple of months back matches my experience.
28/08/2017 18:46:57
I've had one of the budget line metal M&W digital calipers for about 2 years and it's fine. The view of it given in MEW a couple of months back matches my experience.
Thread: lathe bit sharpening
27/08/2017 10:24:11
Posted by IanT on 27/08/2017 10:10:54:

P.S. Hopper - I've never seen anyone mention that 'tapered' parting tools only have side clearance at the tip - and a small clearance should really be ground (both sides) back from the tip....

I thought he meant bladed parting tools with a trapezoidal transverse section - and AFAIK he's right. I use one of these and vary the protrusion with the diameter of what I'm parting. It's laborious and largely pointless to grind side clearance on these, but if you put back rake on, you have to grind back the runout of that back rake every time you grind back the cutting face, if the radius of the piece is enough to interfere with the runout to the top edge.

Edited By Mick B1 on 27/08/2017 10:24:32

26/08/2017 13:51:41
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 26/08/2017 12:22:03:

I'm not sure what the backrake does apart, perhaps, from steering the swarf away from the job.


If you're using the same tool at a different horizontal angle in the toolpost for facing, backrake helps.

Thread: Metric vs Imperial - Practical or Traditional?
25/08/2017 19:09:48
Posted by Brian Hutchings on 25/08/2017 18:26:10:

I don't think it's very helpful to be an 'Imperialist' or a 'metricist', I use whatever is most useful ...



Agree completely. My machine is metric, and there is a sensible range of small metric coarse threads which are suitable in the majority of cases. But there are some useful fine Imperial threads for which taps and dies are far more easily available than metric fine, and for that reason it sometimes makes sense to use them.

I'm fond of both - there's no sense in being a zealot.

One thing I do do when drawing - I denote the decimal point with a dot in Imperial, and a comma in metric, as I was required to do when I worked in a drawing office that used both - and if I use a dimension from the 'other' system in a drawing done in one, I'll put it in brackets with the unit alongside the dimension in the primary system, so that it's clear.


Edited By Mick B1 on 25/08/2017 19:18:37

Thread: Why is everything you buy such rubbish!!
25/08/2017 15:17:40

Maybe the way the early posts in this thread look so bitter and exaggerated now is because things really have got better, but I think they were already a lot better than that in 2010.

Back in the 60s and 70s, a few cars would get past 100,000 miles but not many. Most were failing MoTs or breaking down badly/frequently by 70 or 80k. Nowadays many or most cars will get to 200k easily.

And there are plenty of other examples of consumer products like washing machines and dishwashers becoming much more reliable, especially with the abandonment of electromechanical control systems in favour of electronic.

A bit over 2 years ago I replaced my Myford lathe with a Chinese machine at about a third of the new price of the last Myfords. It's far more capable in several ways than the Myford was, most of the things that have gone wrong with it have been my own fault, and so far I've been able to fix all of them.

Far more serious IMO is the issue of how you square the fact that machine-made and robot-assembled products are so much more consistent and reliable than human-made, with the fact that people need creative jobs they can be proud of.

Thread: Micro Burner
23/08/2017 10:46:38
Posted by JasonB on 23/08/2017 10:40:25:

Or for about £3 on e-bay you can buy the small "pen" size torches that have a flame about 2-3mm wide. Refil with lighter gas.

Yes, there are these:-

though they're dearer than 3 quid.

I've had one for a year or two and after a lot of problems at first (see the product reviews) it's reasonably reliable now, but doesn't deliver enough heat for what I originally wanted it for - bluing titanium.

23/08/2017 09:28:52
Posted by Martin Whittle on 23/08/2017 08:47:28:

I have some difficulty in seeing how an air inlet can be created.

In a bunsen burner, the jet is used to restrict the flow of gas and to create a jet of gas which sucks air into the airhole.

Without re-jetting the burner, the flow will be restricted by the needle, not the jet, Therefore the pressure lower down in the needle will be above atmospheric, and not below: therefore gas would escape via the 'airhole', rather than air coming in.

Maybe with a very small fast flame, it will burn efficiently without an airhole?

NB could be best to use a dispensing needle (not sharp and cut straight across the end), not a hypodermic needle, unless the taper of the needle end is beneficial in terms of mixing air into the gas - would abrading/reshaping the tip help?

Edited By Martin Whittle on 23/08/2017 08:48:04

I'd agree with that.

My own impression is that:

i) Google's algorithm looked for an existing translation first before trying to do it itself, and found one, and

ii) whoever wrote the original was guessing, and hadn't actually made the equipment.

Mind you, I ain't done it neither - but what I'd suggest is using the needle tube from an inkjet-cartridge refilling syringe (or suchlike) as the mixing/burner tube, with part of a fine hypodermic needle as the jet. Then make a sleeve with an airhole to fit over the burner tube. I think there'd be a fair bit of watchmaker-fine engineering to do to fit this lot together, with a number of different possible solutions, but in principle it's a miniaturised Bunsen.

A Google search for micro bunsen produces a few options, but most look a bit too big or otherwise iffy for a 2mm flame.

Edited By Mick B1 on 23/08/2017 09:38:42

23/08/2017 07:03:30

That's OK, but 'abkneifen' means to pinch or nip off, not pierce. Obviously a hypodermic needle's already pierced, and to do so again, for example by a side hole to admit air, wouldn't really be easy.

Thread: Stuart Engine for beginners?
22/08/2017 09:02:21

One thing that's noticeable on You Tubes of the No.1 and 10V is the way they vibrate at anything more than very low revs. This certainly affects my 10V, and I think it's due to the absence of balancing webs on the crankshaft.

This didn't occur to me until after I'd built it, but I think if I was starting a new one I'd try to work some balance in.

Thread: Tightening jacobs chucks
20/08/2017 11:36:43

Blimey, how many of you have worked in real dog-end machine shops where everything's worn by decades of neglect and abuse?

The real reason is because the teeth in the ring gear get locally worn and blunted, and you might get a better purchase on another part of the gear that didn't get buggered some other time someone was trying to tighten a lumpy, scored drill shank enough to stop it spinning, just like you are now!

That, plus one or more of the jaws might have some swarf trapped between it and its taper, or be hindered by a long-standing burr left over from the last time that happened.

Having said that, and noted Harry W's comments, I'll play around using all holes on mine and see whether I can detect a difference.

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