By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Lathe form tool query
05/04/2018 17:13:46

I think what I'd do is make a form tool to shape the space between the humps, by grinding inside radii either side of a central plunge form. That way the forming pressure's concentrated rather than divided. I think it'd be easier to make too - unless the sphericity of the 'humps' is critical, I'd try offhand grinding it from 1/4" square HSS.

Thread: TV tonight
04/04/2018 21:07:52
Posted by Rik Shaw on 04/04/2018 18:12:49:

Tonight on BBC 4 , 20.00 hours - "Metalwork: The Blacksmiths Tale". It might be a repeat but I've never seen it.


Huh. Just seen it. All about curlicues and cherubs, boastful ecclesiastical architecture and suchlike. Very little on railways or shipbuilding and NOTHING on machine tools.

Thread: Warco WM250 Lathe and Warco WM18 Milling machine (Advice please)
02/04/2018 08:53:56

I've had a WM250V for 3 years. It's a fine machine and works well to close limits and good finishes. It has drawbacks like any other, but they're no more serious.

As with any tool, it's the capability of the user to exploit its good points that counts for most.

Thread: Ooh Look!
28/03/2018 19:34:29

Unless you've got a separate slippable clutch somewhere, I'm not sure the OP's version are an advantage.

Edited By Mick B1 on 28/03/2018 19:35:32

Thread: Moore and wright tools
28/03/2018 09:10:39

My Aldi calipers switch on automatically as soon as the jaw's moved. Unlike the M&Ws, they do occasionally show magic numbers with no obvious relationship to fact, but I think the auto-switchon is a useful feature.

27/03/2018 18:56:31
Exactly as per Samaranda's post.

Edited By Mick B1 on 27/03/2018 18:59:06

Thread: Percolated coffee
27/03/2018 12:25:44
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 27/03/2018 12:13:06:
Posted by larry Phelan on 27/03/2018 10:49:16:

Any good for removing rust ?


During the war there was almost no coffee of any type available on the continent; most people drank vile concoctions based on chicory.




I think that varied. My grandparents in Berlin were able to get something that had at least some coffee in it throughout the war - though they said they boiled it up three times before chucking it away to get the most out of it.

I have a wall-mounted Spong grinder that I usually grind beans with. I can remember coming downstairs at the age of about 4, and thinking "Mmmm - coffee!" at the smell, so I've been addicted at least that long. I don't think any alleged risks linked to drinking coffee would've even occurred to my parents' generation.

Edited By Mick B1 on 27/03/2018 12:26:42

Thread: WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill - 001
22/03/2018 16:49:57

Here's my purpleheart eggcup, showing wear from a couple of years' daily use. Nothing in the least special, but it shows that basic woodturning ops can be done on a metal lathe.img_1729.jpg

Thread: Percolated coffee
22/03/2018 15:11:07

I mostly use a filter machine, but really a grinder, kettle, jug, strainer and mug is all you need. I like East African coffee beans, mostly - though I've lately found Lidl's Java/Sumatra tasty and good value.

Thread: WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill - 001
22/03/2018 15:00:46

I sold my Record Power wood lathe shortly after I got my WM250V, because I found nothing that I could do on the wood lathe that I couldn't do on the metal lathe.

I kept the Robert Sorby gouge and button woodturning tool, and my toolrest is simply 8" or so of 1/2" square section alli or mild steel (whichever I find first) clamped in the toolpost - starting parallel with the bed but can be swung to any angle.

It's true that an engineering 3-jaw doesn't hold wooden workpieces as well as a woodlathe chuck, but there are usually ways around that using soft jaws or an extra sacrificial inch or so of wood to hold on.

Thread: crank shaft
21/03/2018 17:29:53
Posted by Maurice on 21/03/2018 17:02:40:

If the Loctite is used correctly, you really don't need to pin it as well. It is very difficult to break a joint once it has cured. It takes far more force to move, even with heating, than the shaft will ever undergo when your engine is running.

I think so, too - though presumably it depends on the forces.

I'd been thinking I'd pinned the crankshaft on the Stuart 10V I made about 20 years ago, but inspecting the crank now I can't see any sign of pinning, so I probably did just use red Loctite - and it still works well.

Thread: Beauty or beast?
20/03/2018 15:41:34

I thought traction engines did about 8 mph. If that was the case for this one, even Toby, Percy and Thomas would be treading on its heels, never mind Henry and Gordon...

Thread: Strip Down to Clean New Warco 250V
20/03/2018 14:24:20
Posted by Mike Poole on 06/03/2018 18:45:09:

I always avoid standing in the firing line if at all possible, apart from the key all sorts of crap come out of a spinning chuck, bits of swarf and oil and even the job if you forget to tighten the chuck.


The main exceptions in my case would be:-

  • when watching for a boring bar or internal threading tool emerging from the back end of a bore at low revs or on a very light finishing cut;
  • when knurling or parting close to the chuck and the action needs close inspection
  • when forming (typically radii) across a broad cutting face at low revs.

Plus, of course, with most lathes without a clutch and with headstock switchgear, it's necessary to reach across the line to switch on and off. So all-engaged threadcutting - forward and reversing out - should probably be added.

I think it's a matter of knowing what the risks are, and which ones to take and when.

Thread: Small universal/ball joint
19/03/2018 15:46:15
Posted by jimmy b on 19/03/2018 15:08:30:

Is this the sort of thing you are thinking of?



Thank you for that link. I'd wondered what'd happened to Woodside since the '80s when I last used 'em!


Thread: What did you do Today 2018
16/03/2018 17:56:40

Not really Engineering, but:

Granddaughter (5) drew the Easter Bunny yesterday on orange paper.

Carol scanned it and reduced it to fit the width of 12mm wood I've got, then printed it.

I drew around it over the wood and inked the scored line so I could cut to it.

Used the Lidl Parkside jigsaw to cut out the shape, sanded it and filled in the details with a pyrograph thing.

Took maybe an hour.

See what she thinks of it on the weekend... laugh


16/03/2018 14:51:35
Posted by Mick B1 on 05/02/2018 13:24:35:

Finished the piston rod oilers for a tank engine on a steam railway (the bit with a just-visible ring in the top pic):

polish tank piston rod oilers1a.jpg

polish tank piston rod oilers2.jpg

Simple parts, but not so easy. The main thread is a total batsrad - M22,46 (prob 22,5) x 2,5 as near as I can measure. It would've been nice to've had one o' them 3-wire spiral gauges to measure the originals and work to that, but nothing like that was to hand, so I just started from the OD and cut the thread to just under the 1,53 nominal depth for 2,5 pitch.

The only gauge I had was the loco sitting in the shed, and my lathe is in my garage.

So I've ended up with a bit more of a rattling good fit than I'd like, possibly due to the crest flat I had to put on my screwcutting tool to stop the tip breaking off. I'm hoping that good old PTFE tape will resolve any problems.

I'm sure they'll let me know... blush

Edited By Mick B1 on 05/02/2018 13:29:12

Ah, well - they did let me know - on Tuesday, with the Polish tank engine due back in service tomorrow!

The front 2 oiler connections really are too lose, with the stuff hissing back up through the threads. So I needed to make 2 more a bit quick.

Out came the Warco manual again to look up the change gears for 10 TPI (same config as 2,5mm pitch) along with the big screwdriver and nylon hammer to dismantle the severe slide fit of the gears, bushes and spacers. Maybe if I do this often enough there'll be a distant future day when I can do it by hand alone.

Any road up, the only way I could think to make 'em a better fit was to cut the thread shallower. So I took the 2 badduns and measured with the tips of a caliper the diameter where they rested on the thread flanks. OK, so it's a non-preferred measurement method, but what other options I got when I've no way to even know what the thread's supposed to be? "Effective diameter"? You can whistle for that. The female thread it screws into is a bit tapered, but you can tell the taper's too gradual to be due to anything but 67 years of wear.

So on the first of the new ones I cut the thread to measure 15 thou up on the bad ones. Brought it back to the engine shed and tried it - it started in but wouldn't go all the way without seriously unreasonable effort on the end of a long monkey wrench, so I whipped it back out, took about 3 thou more and cut the second one to the same dimension - if it deserves that name.

Took both back in this morning, and it seems to me they both fitted as well as practically possible - first few turns easily by hand, then needing a spanner, but coming to a sharp and clear stop at the underside of the hex. So I connected the lube pipes. Hopefully they'll work OK now; I guess I'll be back here again if they don't... blush

Thread: 6" Burrell, Finished at last !
15/03/2018 18:14:44

That's very impressive indeed.

I'm probably not alone in thinking I may never be able to get near the level of commitment you must've had to build that.

Thread: Couple of things at Lidl
15/03/2018 17:19:28
Posted by Mick B1 on 12/03/2018 18:46:59:

The little Parkside jigsaw is a useful thing too. Lidl released it in their stores yeterday and mine's just made a batch of Easter bunnies to go in the grandkids' egg baskets. laugh

I'm glad I went and bought mine on release day - Sunday. Went into local Lidl again today and they're all gone.

Lots of other tools left.

Thread: What are these Now with Photo
15/03/2018 07:42:52

My missus has a Shimpo potter's wheel. It's very powerful and can maintain the pedal-controlled speed under heavy load. The motor's a massive and wide ring of coils, arranged a bit like a radial aero-engine. It's integrated into the structure of the casing, apparently not a separate component that could be pulled out as a subassembly.

There are probably other ways to build one, but I think making one like the Shimpo would be a pointlessly-challenging project.

Thread: Stephen Hawking
14/03/2018 17:33:37
Posted by Geoff Theasby on 14/03/2018 12:40:52:


I claim to be one of the non-scientists who not only finished A Brief History of Time, but understood it..


So did I - but that was a long time ago now.... surprise

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Allendale Electronics
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest