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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Flycutters: help to understand 3 different types
10/12/2018 10:55:36
Posted by BW on 10/12/2018 10:18:56:


I cannot figure out which part of your cutter contacts the work and cuts it, your bottom edge looks almost horizontal to me.


I thought the same on looking at the pic. I'd want to back off the bottom edge to give it a bit of trail clearance angle and prevent the trapping of bits of swarf against previously-cut surface. But then the flycutters I use in the lathe are very much less rigid.

Thread: Single point thread cutting
08/12/2018 09:27:00
Posted by ChrisB on 08/12/2018 08:31:26:

I'd take Phil's advice.


That's what I do, too. It's simple, as sure as can be, and wastes little time unless the thread's unusually long.

Thread: How does solder stick ?
07/12/2018 16:28:27
Posted by pgk pgk on 07/12/2018 16:19:53:


This is the same form of idea as switching on a light switch and the bulb sucks the dark into itself. That is unarguable on the fact that the closer to the dark-suction effect the less dark there is even though it tries to flow in from afar. Indeed if you place an object between the bulb and the dark then the dark accumulates behind that object as shadow.

Yes, I like that one. I had a pal once who used to say when I came in from outdoors on a chilly night that I was radiating cold... smiley

Thread: Flycutters: help to understand 3 different types
07/12/2018 15:01:19
Posted by BW on 07/12/2018 03:40:29:

Thanks a lot for all of the tips and especially the photos - really helpful to see what others have done. Especially that one by Mick, thats amazing - would never have dreamed of trying that.



Edited By BW on 07/12/2018 03:40:59

Well, thanks for the nice words there. I videoed the second-to-last pass with that overextended flycutter. The component fitted after one more cut of 2 thou.


One of the joys of engineering to me is managing to do summat close enough to what I want, with whatever I happen to have.
Of course, I reserve the right to be less forthcoming about demonstrating my failures... wink 2

Edited By Mick B1 on 07/12/2018 15:02:20

06/12/2018 11:05:04
Posted by IanT on 06/12/2018 10:35:17:


I'm afraid I thought Micks' 3/16th tool had far too much extension from its' holder - and whilst it might work - It's not something that I would recommend myself.




Of course it did! laugh

I even tried with the little parting-tool-shaped grind on the tip to sort of trepan out the radius, so I could simply then part off two of the arc-segment reinforces.

I didn't expect that to work, and it didn't. That was when I decided to flycut the rad out, and that did.

My point was to keep your eye on the objective you're trying to produce, and not become too preoccupied with doing it in some procedural manner.

Edited By Mick B1 on 06/12/2018 11:07:28

06/12/2018 09:36:35

A flycutter's whatever you make it to be, and the workholding conditions are as important as the flycutter configuration itself in how well it works.

I generally use a standard lathe boring boring bar with a 3/16" square HSS toobit set by caliper to whatever radius I'm wanting to achieve - though obviously that's not usually critical when generating flats. Equally obviously it has limitations on depth of cut when doing it in a lathe.

But it will do some quite surprising things:-

boring reinforce.jpg

... as when I was wanting to cut (IIRC) a 1.407" rad to a specific depth in an arc-shaped reinforce.

I don't think there's any more fixed answer to what's the best flycutter than there is to what's the best anything else - it depends on what you're trying to do, to what and with what. The best flycutter for the job is the one you've got, that you can make do the job.

Thread: Type of builds on this site
05/12/2018 09:31:58

Oh gawd! All those rivets! All that drilling!

I think, if I ever get round to it, I'll try something like a 6- or 17-pounder from WW2 instead... blush

Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch
04/12/2018 22:42:01

Tidy and very attractive work. Keep going.

Thread: Interests other than Model Engineering
04/12/2018 20:55:58

I forgot about:-

Antique telescopes

Amateur Dramatics (lapsed).

Thread: Anyone bought a new Myford
04/12/2018 16:28:34
Posted by Brian Abbott on 04/12/2018 13:30:56:

Wish i never asked now.. smiley

Aw, c'mon - you must've known it'd provoke some discussion and comparisons. laugh

Thread: Type of builds on this site
04/12/2018 09:36:48

I too would be very interested.

There's an example, at Churchill's hose at Chartwell - a very detailed model of a WW1 'Male' tank 6-pounder installation. I just wish there were a source for the plans.

Thread: Anyone bought a new Myford
04/12/2018 09:26:47
Posted by Roger Williams 2 on 04/12/2018 09:10:08:


One thing that hasnt been mentioned about the Myfords, is the sheer joy of having the carriage handwheel on the right, where it should be.

Good health to all.

Now, that's just an opinion. I Iike it on the left on my Warco, so I can easily touch-on a face and read the handwheel dial - which in Myford's case you have not got - just by looking down on it.

My Speed 10 had a handwheel dial on the far end of the leadscrew, but that wasn't as convenient.

But you're right about some folks' cockeyed spending priorities... wink

03/12/2018 18:55:15
Posted by blowlamp on 03/12/2018 17:45:25:

Money deposited in a bank is viewed as a loan to the bank and becomes subject to its T&Cs. In effect, the bank becomes the gatekeeper to the money you earned.


I've not had any trouble with my bank hindering access to my money in over 50 years. Keeping it in cash at home would make very many transactions a lot more complicated and labour-intensive, as well as making considerable investment in security advisable. I'd say your last sentence represents an outlying view.

Thread: Interests other than Model Engineering
03/12/2018 18:44:53

Military History - esp. 20th C.

Astronomy - casual stargazer rather than detailed observer.

Reading - esp. but not exclusively Science Fiction (only the stuff I think is good!).

Thread: ML10
03/12/2018 08:22:34
Posted by Robin on 02/12/2018 22:54:54:

You can get anything on an ML10, all you need is a bit of imagination...


And time.

And motivation... laugh

02/12/2018 22:22:04
Posted by Joe falconer on 02/12/2018 19:04:26:


i'm new to here and am slowly building up my workshop,

i'm after my first lathe, would you recommend a ML10?

Thank you

If you're going to build model engines, you might find it too small. I did. For example, many of the medium and larger Stuart kits have a 7" flywheel, which an ML10/Speed 10/Diamond 10 can't machine without serious mods, whereas the 7 Series can. If you want to do milling on it, the 10 Series cross slide is narrow, as is the bed dovetail, and that's very limiting.

I had a Speed 10 for 15 years. I'm not going to get into a brand names debate, but I'd seriously consider something a bit larger unless you're interested mostly in smaller work.

Thread: Unusual Tool
02/12/2018 11:31:30

Looks like some sort of a grooving tool to me - the blade looks a couple of mm wide and seems if it cuts square to the width?

Thread: Cheap carbide inserts - where's the market?
01/12/2018 20:13:56

I've got two carbide insert tools, by Glanze, that Chronos or somebody was flogging cheap maybe 5 years ago. One uses diamond-shaped inserts, the other nearly square ones - I only get two edges per insert. I bought some cheap Far Eastern inserts and they seem as good as the original tips that came with the tool.

I only use them for roughing cuts when I want to get as much metal off as I can, and for that they work OK within the limitations of the WM250V they're running on.

Other than that, I'm on HSS because, even with a cheap Chinese bench grinder, I can make pretty much whatever I want with it.

So yes, the OP's question is pertinent - nobody's gonna make much of a living out of folk like me who spend a tenner every couple of years on carbide.

Thread: Cost effective way of measuring 90degrees very accurately on Milling machine
01/12/2018 15:13:00
Posted by Martin Connelly on 01/12/2018 15:04:54:

The problem if you square up the column is that you may introduce an error in spindle movements. How do you know the machining for the column and the machining for the spindle are perfectly parallel to each other?

Martin C

If the spindle has a quill you can advance and retract, grip a bar in it with a dial gauge attached - via a linking piece if necessary - that contacts a machined surface of the column. If it's parallel, moving the quill in and out will show no deflection.

Thread: Anyone bought a new Myford
29/11/2018 22:21:11
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 29/11/2018 17:50:51:


I don't mind people spending money how they like. But I do object to people telling beginners that Far Eastern machines are seriously inferior. Doing so puts newcomers off joining the hobby when there's a good chance they'd do well enough with foreign kit, or at least learn to make their own minds up.


Agreed. There might have been a time when there was some truth in it, but it has now become a tired and increasingly false nostalgic and nationalistic mantra.

Many of the Far Eastern machines work well and accurately, permit inventiveness in their use, and allow the building of very successful and attractive projects.

Edited By Mick B1 on 29/11/2018 22:21:40

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