Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Washer undercut|
Purely a cosmetic feature then, with no engineering significance?
I don't know why you wouldn't use the same 30 deg. chamfer down to AF diameter that's on both sides of a standard nut. The paint would be affected in almost the same way - if anything with less damage, due to the absence of a right-angled edge.
|Thread: Couple of things at Lidl|
Set of metric HSS drills, TiN coated, 1,5 - 10mm.
Unusual grind, with a point angle around 140 degrees, facetted clearance angle and precise web-thinned point.
I've drilled black mild and silver steels with the 4mm. size, and it worked well with low thrust required and even curls of swarf from both flutes. The lip looked the same after as before, and the plating was still there.
As far as I can see, a decent small set of drills for £3.99.
I keep my main emphasis on product - I do Model Engineering to amuse and amaze friends and family. For that reason I'm unwilling to engage with time-consuming infrastructure or tooling projects unless they're absolutely necessary.
So I just use a dehumidifier. In a previous house I was lucky and could easily pipe the condensate away, but where I am now I have to empty the 2L tank every couple of days.
If I forget, and find the lathe with condensation on it, a wipe with a flannelette rag removes it. Very occasionally a thin layer of rust appears, but a bit of scotchbrite and WD40 will take that away as if it had never been. But with the machinery in use nearly every day, that doesn't often happen.
|Thread: Right hand threads|
They were following the sun, which appears to rotate clockwise through the sky. Hence anticlockwise or left hand threads are 'widdershins' - against the sun.
|Thread: Mild steel|
Black mild steel usually behaves this way. It's usually sweeter to machine than bright drawn if it's of decent quality without inclusions.
|Thread: What have I done wrong??|
Maybe it's how I'm reading it, but I can't see how this would occur except by eccentricity of the initial 4-jaw setting.
Why wouldn't you use the reverse jaws on your 3-jaw to face the rear, and bore for the axle? It's only going to be a couple of thou out, and you can clean that up when you mount on the mandrel. Or is the periphery of the casting too rough?
|Thread: Are you offended when the media poke fun at your hobby?|
Media attitudes and those of the wider society only reflect back and forth on each other.
Apart from periods such as wartime, when it was very clear to everybody that how we fared would depend to a great degree on our engineering capability, engineers have been persistently undervalued and patronised.
A few receive inflated accolades which - whilst they may not actually be undeserved - invariably ignore the work of the great number of enabling workers who collaborate to bring them to fruition.
Sometimes there seems to be an attitude among some educated folk that anybody capable of concentrating on anything for any length of time must belong somewhere on the autistic spectrum.
So no, it would be far too simplistic to be offended by such a programme. The problem is much bigger than that.
Edited By Mick B1 on 26/10/2017 20:10:46
|Thread: Calipers - Dial v digital|
I was a shopfloor machinist in the '70s when dial calipers first appeared. Loads of machinists bought them but they started to slip teeth very quickly. This was in the days when the Mitutoyo name had absolutely none of the quality significance it has today, but I took a chance and bought a Mitutoyo 6" vernier instead - which I still use from time to time, because I didn't feel the dial calipers were trustworthy.
I use an M&W value line digital for most work, with an old Mitutoyo vernier mic for accurate diameters. For rougher work I've also got an Aldi digital which still seems to work after multiple dredgings with coaldust, oil, swarf and suds (though you have to wipe it clean and rezero!). I guess I still won't trust dial calipers...
Edited By Mick B1 on 26/10/2017 08:41:07
|Thread: slitting saw speed|
You do sometimes get steel shafts with intensely case hardened skins, but soft inside. I can remember trying to machine some knitting machine pushrods that I'd been able to cut with a hacksaw, but couldn't turn with HSS.
|Thread: eclipse hss tool broken in 2|
I've done that to a 1/4" square bit when I tightened all 3 toolpost screws down onto it, but had forgotten that the packing only extended under the front 2. Didn't know I'd done it till I took the tool out.
|Thread: BA threads. Why the tpi?|
Not disputing that.
The answer to that is that people who've made substantial intellectual investment learning idiosyncratic systems as schoolchildren are naturally protective of the effort it cost them.
Additionally, a great deal of the documentation and drawings for model engineering projects and mechanisms dates from a period when that system was in the ascendant, so it makes sense for model engineers to be fluent in it and conversions between it and the currently-favoured system.
|Thread: Faceplate or Independent Chuck?|
|Unless you're machining lots of irregular casting, I think a 4-jaw is hugely the more useful. When I went through a 6-month centre lathe training course in the 70s, the 4-jaw was the default fitting, and we got used to truing up every job in it as standard practice.|
Laziness since has meant that I normally now use the 3-jaw, but if I could only afford one fitting, the 4-jaw would still be the clear choice.
|Thread: Manual lathe for large diameter turning|
Back in the 70s I was turning big cable reel components for the Coal Board on a Binns & Berry with about a metre or more swing into a wide bed gap, but a max between centres of maybe 2M. I came to think well of the machine, but I can't remember any model no. I think it was already quite old back then.
Edited By Mick B1 on 21/10/2017 12:14:20
|Thread: Lathe tool question|
You have to look at the locating nest for the insert in the tool body. I've got 2 indexable Glanze tools that I bought years ago. They were 8mm, but I milled them down to 6,35 so they'd fit the tool packing pieces I'd made for the Myford, but they transferred to my Warco 250V without mods.
You can use smaller sizes than 12mm with suitable packing, which you can make from 1/2" or 12mm square section steel or alli, milled to an 'L' section so as to support the indexable tool at the correct CH.
I have a suspicion that, despite my 250V being metric, the CH is actually 0.500" above the floor of the toolpost, so 12mm tools might conceivably need a thin packing shim. I say this because my packing pieces made as above are .250" thick on the foot of the 'L', and 1/4" square HSS toolbits come to CH with little or no grinddown on top.
Whichever tool you buy, make a note of the size and angle of the insert location - when you look on the Bay, sellers of inserts usually post dimensions. I didn't know anything when about them when I started, and I haven't bought any yet that won't fit.
|Thread: New chinese lathe or old Myford lathe|
Yeah, but you have to be able to recognise them for what they are!
That takes experience, and some would rather develop experience in using machines to make what they want, rather than faultfinding and looking for - or making - scarce tooling and accessories.
Yep, he's right.
Engineers are supposed to be ingenious - it's what the root of the word means. What counts is making what you want with what you've got. Just do it...
The saddle on my Warco is about twice the width of that on the Myford Speed 10 it replaced, and the bed also about twice as wide. Using the vertical slide I can do milling that would've defeated the Myford. I can use broad radius form tools on titanium, which I couldn't on the Myford.
|Thread: Milling machine questions|
Ah. I don't think I could argue with that...
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