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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

20/02/2018 14:03:51
Posted by Journeyman on 20/02/2018 13:22:36:

This topic is likely to garner umpteen different suggestions reccomendations and quantities of different advice, as usual for a "What Lathe?" thread laugh


My preferred option would be a new Chinese machine. Something like my Warco WM 250. The latest version has VFD drive and power cross-feed. There are a lot of these about and most people seem happy with them. Just a little bigger than the Myford and comes with plenty of accessories. As your budget would run to it you could even have DRO's fitted. Wouldn't necessarily go with the stand a purpose made solid bench affords more storage and is likely to be more solid.

This model lathe is supplied by various vendors in the UK worthwhile finding something near you and visit a showroom or the next large ME exhibition, Doncaster is the next. Others will be along shortly with an alternative view...



+1 for the WM250V. Very happy with mine. With a vertical slide I also do a lot of milling and jig boring on smallish components for engine models. The stand I bought with it is also useful and has (IMO) very good storage.

Very much more capable than the Myford Speed 10 it replaced.

Edited By Mick B1 on 20/02/2018 14:05:15

Thread: Couple of things at Lidl
20/02/2018 12:21:53
Posted by peak4 on 19/02/2018 22:37:37:
Posted by Mick B1 on 19/02/2018 19:44:00:
Posted by peak4 on 19/02/2018 18:58:23:
Posted by Mick B1 on 19/02/2018 18:31:27:

Lidl claim the compressor is 'low noise' - anybody know if that's true?

This review claims 97dBa, so it's all relative to what you expect; certainly not quiet line a Jun-Air or Bambi


Thanks - that answers the question. Not suitable for running stationary steam engines indoors on air, then.

I don't know how much air your steam engines are likely to consume, but would an airbrush compressor do the job?


My missus has one.

I haven't yet quite developed the nerve to ask to try it.

Need a bit of time here, I think... laugh

19/02/2018 19:44:00
Posted by peak4 on 19/02/2018 18:58:23:
Posted by Mick B1 on 19/02/2018 18:31:27:

Lidl claim the compressor is 'low noise' - anybody know if that's true?

This review claims 97dBa, so it's all relative to what you expect; certainly not quiet line a Jun-Air or Bambi


Thanks - that answers the question. Not suitable for running stationary steam engines indoors on air, then.

19/02/2018 18:31:27

Lidl claim the compressor is 'low noise' - anybody know if that's true?

Thread: My new lathe and why is the combound .002 per line
19/02/2018 15:33:35
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/02/2018 15:08:25:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 19/02/2018 13:26:23:
... everyone has been discussing cross slides, which may well be what the OP meant but isn't what he typed!


May I present strong circumstantial evidence on behalf of the defence yer 'onour ?

What Brett actually wrote was: " ... why is dial .002 per line on the carriage, as I dial in or out."

This looks very much like reference to cross slide, I would say.


But the carriage is normally used to position the crosslide correctly along the bed, and the OP said it was the 'combound'.

I think that what engineers do is make what they want using what they have, so I think I'd better not comment further.

Thread: Colchester Bantam 2000
18/02/2018 19:08:48

.559" is 3 1/2 thou down from 9/16. My guess is imperial.

Thread: Strip Down to Clean New Warco 250V
18/02/2018 16:56:53
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 14/02/2018 19:13:00:


I have taken the change wheel cover off & put the stop tag in to the socket & fixed it in place permanently. I have taken the chuck cover off & rotated the spindle so it thinks it is in the start position . Both of these guards are a pain in the proverbial.


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/02/2018 19:16:14

That's exactly what I've done with mine - though I haven't had anything like most of the negative experiences you reported.

You're quite right in that well-intentioned safety fittings sometimes defeat work flexibility, and specifically make it practically impossible to see what's happening at the cutting edge.

Obviously I don't think it right to recommend to anybody that they disable these features, but I do remember that one of the H&S guidelines I saw in the '70s did concede that tooling and adjustment features of machinery should be accessible to suitably skilled personnel at their "unrestricted discretion".

Thread: Tooling to buy with Warco WM250 and WM16?
17/02/2018 14:08:14
I don't really think a change of level is what you'll get. You still won't have a gearbox with a comprehensive range of feeds and pitches selectable by moving a few levers, like an industrial centre lathe. You'll have to set up gear trains for screwcutting.

You will get about 3" more swing and more flexibility in speed control. On my WM250V, the 3-jaw is the best I think I've seen, and it means that most jobs can be worked from both ends without faffing about with clocks and 4-jaws. I don't know that buying a new chuck for my Speed 10 would've achieved that.
16/02/2018 20:48:21
Well, I had a Myford Speed 10 and went to a WM250V, and I've no regrets - but your swap might be a little less clear. Even so, I'd think the extra capability looks worthwhile.
16/02/2018 18:12:06
Yes you can.

What I do is turn the chuck with a foot or so of 10mm silver steel round bar, which fits the chuck key hole neatly and doesn't risk opening it. I can start biggish threads like 1" BSF that way. No need to disconnect belt drive.

Edited By Mick B1 on 16/02/2018 18:13:32

Thread: Strip Down to Clean New Warco 250V
14/02/2018 20:33:31
Posted by Martin Hamilton 1 on 14/02/2018 19:12:26:

I am thinking of getting a Warco WM250v lathe, could someone possibly measure the height from the feet of the lathe bed up to the headstock spindle centre. Reason I need to know is I am possibly mounting the lathe onto my existing bench & need to know if I need to alter my bench height. Many thanks Martin.

'Tis an Imperial Foot, near as I can measure on a freezing night..

Edited By Mick B1 on 14/02/2018 20:33:54

14/02/2018 18:32:39

I think you'll need to tap out the leadscrew shearpin near where it exits the headstock gearbox in order to release the leadscrew.

14/02/2018 18:13:02
Posted by ChrisB on 14/02/2018 17:55:29:

On the subject of oil etc, is it normal for the wm280Â to leak oil from the carriage gearbox?

My 250 did. Seems to've stopped now. Don't think it matters, unless you run very long and fast.

14/02/2018 17:25:14

As far as I remember, I didn't strip mine at all when I got it in April '15. I cleaned off the top surfaces of the bed and crosslide, and then I think I got to work.

First thing I did was to modify the baseplate accessory so that it'd fit my Myford vertical slide - I wanted to mill a dovetail side plate to secure a finder sight to a 6" reflector telescope.

The only necessary cleaning job I think I missed is the underside of the bedways - the blob of metal that is the tailstock nut could get stuck and sometimes wouldn't slide freely till I cleaned the crap off under the bed.

Enjoy the 250 - I've been happy with mine. Just don't let the power feed overrun the limits of travel in any direction!

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
14/02/2018 16:21:35

Finished a cap/top bearing/gland for the trim valve on the Polish tank engine:-

polish tank trim valve cap 1 small.jpg

Inside and outside threads were total bastard sizes, O/d random in either Metric or Imperial, but both a perfect fit to a 14 TPI thread gauge. Only way to do them was successive cut & try. For the outside thread that meant taking it out of the chuck, because the valve body casting - which was the only practical gauge - weighs 40 or 50 lb; but if you mark the jaw positions on the holding diameter, it'll go back properly pitched-in for the next cut.

The rotation shaft of the valve is a bit bent, so I needed to put a bit of clearance in the 'ole. I thought about trying to straighten it, but the rotor (1 3/4" diameter) has such a big aperture in it to let the water through that I dursn't try to true it up wiv an 'ammer. I think the packing in the gland will probably seal it anyway. Should see the engine puffing up and down the line in a week or two, I'm told.

Thread: What quality vs cost considerations drives your buying?
13/02/2018 10:39:57

I think a lot of talk about 'quality' is really little more than fashion gossip.

I buy a tool to do the job in hand. I'm not in production, so I don't have distinct running lines and specials - I don't know what the next job will entail, so I have limited capability to estimate the future utility of any but the most fundamental of tools.

I've bought expensive tools that have been less than excellent, and cheap tools that have given decades of hard service - and the other way round, too.

I think that very often you just can't tell how durable a tool is until you put it under the stress you bought it to handle. You just have to make your judgement and take your chance, and brand names are not always reliable - especially since, as so many of our lost engineering companies show, they sometimes rest on their laurels once established, and lose their drive.

Thread: Myford 7 or 10
12/02/2018 21:51:31

Yes, forget the 10. I ran a Speed 10 for 15 years.

Cute and well-made, but limiting. I don't miss it.

Thread: Tooling to buy with Warco WM250 and WM16?
12/02/2018 20:25:53
Posted by Ross Lloyd 1 on 12/02/2018 19:10:18:

I also have a question about the 250 toolpost - with the stock unit, can you adjust the height of the cutting tool without using shim?

No, you can't.

What I did soon after receiving my WM250V was take a couple of inches of 1/2x3/8" section BDMS and mill out a 1/4" step. I made a few of these, and another out of 1/8x3/8" aluminium angle for a RDG 5/16" blade partoff tool.

That means that I can use 1/4" square section HSS toolbits, grind the tool form I want with minimal height loss and just slip these tools in and out in use. I can also use some 8mm Glanze carbide insert tools which I've milled off underneath to get them to correct centre height.

It may be that a QCTP might still save me a tiny bit of time, but really I waste very little fiddling about with bits of shim to pack tools up to centre height. I'd rather spend money on project materials, or tools I absolutely have to have, than on what I think of as luxuries.


Edited By Mick B1 on 12/02/2018 20:27:35

Thread: This Weeks Mystery Tool?
10/02/2018 10:15:36
Posted by Martin King 2 on 10/02/2018 08:27:15:

Hi All,

That certainly seems to be the part, problem solved I think!

MickB1: thats a great resorce you have linked, I have saved it for further study, many thanks.


Well, thank you! But what still bothers me about it is the lack of a stamped or engraved Part Number. Putting these on is good and well-established habit in military manufacturers - in fact I remember one place I worked at that kept a guy on long past retirement age 'cos he was very expert at painting tiny identification numbers on small lots of specialist electromech components.

I suppose yours could be a component that failed inspection for whatever reason and was taken home by the machinst for his Black Museum, like some of us do...! blush

10/02/2018 07:03:12
Posted by Mick B1 on 09/02/2018 22:12:25:

....but it could be almost any sliding-wedge gun using fixed ammunition.

Sorry - should've said 'metal cartridges'. 25 pdr didn't use fixed.

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