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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Mystery rotating V block
15/10/2019 08:47:45
Posted by Brian Oldford on 14/10/2019 21:19:18:

ICBW but the base looks not dissimilar to that of a Myford 2 way Vertical Slide.

Don't know if they made other models, but mine has two studs in each swivel, and the base uses the same 2 studs to clamp to the crossslide via tee nuts. It's also a good deal more substantial.

Thread: I am a metal sculptor and happy to be here!
09/10/2019 14:47:02

Well, mine is pretty simplistic - scrollsaw, blacking and dotting with a dowel and fine grinding paste, but as long as we're showin' off :-


Thread: Hammer/Drift
09/10/2019 08:18:15
Posted by Chris Gunn on 03/10/2019 10:21:05:


We also used ours to "bang in" anyone who was late for work, as the offender walked up the machine shop everyone would bang on the machine drip trays with their drifts, and the sound of a hundred folk doing this meant the latecomer did not go unnoticed.


Happy days, I think.

Chris Gunn

Yes, I remember those days, and mercifully it only happened to others.

I thought then it was a slavish and savage practice, and still do.

Thread: I am a metal sculptor and happy to be here!
07/10/2019 18:03:38

Superb stuff. Thanks and keep doing it!


Thread: At last - no more chattering when parting off!
07/10/2019 12:28:14

Yes, beware of You Tube 'tutorials'.

My missus wanted me to make a plaster-of-paris slab for drying out surplus wet pottery clay, and we wasted spent 3/4 of an hour watching some famous potter failing to make one. He made up an elaborate frame to contain the plaster, then couldn't get the slab off the car window he'd used as a base, and just gave up.

We used an old cat-tray lined with polythene. That was 5 years ago and the slab still works well.

Thread: Hand or Machine Reamers?
04/10/2019 21:05:12
Posted by colin hawes on 04/10/2019 13:48:30:

Hand reamers are only useful for opening holes such as little end bushes in situ where it can't be done on a machine. Colin

That's exactly what I did with the last one I used, when my BSA A10 blew a piston to bits and I had to rebuild the top end where it was. 1974, I think...


Thread: What are members thoughts on Gap Bed lathes ?
03/10/2019 13:49:10

I'd go substantially with SOD's advice. But I would comment that in the years I spent on various shop floors, where gap fillers had been removed, they'd *usually* not been refitted precisely, often resulting in the crossslide needing to be tapped in a couple of thou as the carriage climbed onto the gap filler.

But you get used to anything - after a few days you just do it by instinct without really registering it.


Thread: Hammer/Drift
02/10/2019 21:15:17
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 02/10/2019 20:51:13:
Posted by Mick B1 on 02/10/2019 20:17:40:
Posted by Baldric on 02/10/2019 13:11:24:
Posted by Mick B1 on 01/10/2019 20:46:31:

I've used one in a steam railway workshop in the last few months.

Yes, it's useful, but it doesn't do anything that a taper drift and suitable hammer won't.

I find them useful, you can hold the drift in one hand and "catch" the drill with the other.


But you can do that with a plain taper drift, bashing the head of the drift against the benchtop.

[ ... ]


Please forgive a naive question ...

How would you do that on a drilling machine ?


Ah, sorry, I was thinking of taper sleeves. If it's in a drilling machine, locate the taper drift in the slot and hit it with whatever comes to hand - I've sometimes used a handy lump of bronze that's usually left on a nearby Bridgeport clone for bashing the top drawbolt. Still usually easy enough to catch the taper-shank drill as it releases.

02/10/2019 20:17:40
Posted by Baldric on 02/10/2019 13:11:24:
Posted by Mick B1 on 01/10/2019 20:46:31:

I've used one in a steam railway workshop in the last few months.

Yes, it's useful, but it doesn't do anything that a taper drift and suitable hammer won't.

I find them useful, you can hold the drift in one hand and "catch" the drill with the other.


But you can do that with a plain taper drift, bashing the head of the drift against the benchtop.

I've noticed one o' them hammer drifts sitting on a big lathe in the railway machine shop many times, but only once did I actually think it worth taking the ten or so steps over to fetch it, and that was because somebody else had gone off with the ordinary taper drift.

01/10/2019 20:46:31

I've used one in a steam railway workshop in the last few months.

Yes, it's useful, but it doesn't do anything that a taper drift and suitable hammer won't.

Thread: nutcracker
01/10/2019 17:41:04

Like the serrations - cast-in, filed or shaped?

Does it retain the kernel when the shell cracks, or does it all fall into the dish?


Thread: Cutting tools - what type is most suitable?
01/10/2019 13:14:55
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 01/10/2019 12:42:46:
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 01/10/2019 12:20:10:

Anybody not doing all of them?

Me! I don't do all of them. embarrassed

But on the other hand I do several that are not shown.


Same here as you say. And I don't need a separate tool to do each of them. And I've still got 22 different HSS tool profiles to hand, even if some of them have only been used once or twice.

Thread: nutcracker
30/09/2019 18:39:30

I agree with Anthony Knights that the Mole wrench - or whatever name you you prefer - answers the functional requirements about as perfectly as possible in a tool of such practical dimensions. It's a bit like those C19 demonstrations where a steam hammer could crack an egg in a wineglass without harming the glass.

Nevertheless the Austrian modernist Carl Auböck made something like this in the '50s, which I shamelessly pirated as a pressie for friends and family last year 'cos the missus thought it attractive:-


It can do walnuts and hazelnuts easily, and brazils with a bit of care to locate the apex in the piston recess - plus of course, once the user detects that the structural integrity of the shell is defeated, further advance of the piston to damage the kernel becomes unnecessary... laugh

Edited By Mick B1 on 30/09/2019 18:40:19

Thread: Cutting tools - what type is most suitable?
30/09/2019 09:12:05
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 29/09/2019 22:09:20:
Posted by Will Cole on 29/09/2019 21:12:08:

I think trying to grind those faces freehand would take an immense amount of skill.

Not really, if I can do it I'm sure you can. It's just three angles and as long as you understand why the angles are the way they are (the precise values are not critical) everything should be fine.

I've never really understood the obsession with grinding jigs. While I have the wherewithal to accurately shape HSS if needs be almost all my HSS tools are shaped freehand, not even using the piddly rest on my bench grinder. I use HSS exclusively on my repetition lathe, and that's a production machine, so the tools get run hard.


I'm another one who thinks this is absolutely on the money.

Invest the time in developing the skill and you'll never be stymied for lack of a cutting tool - in fact the idea of buying somebody else's idea of what the tool should be like will seem like a restriction. Back in the 70s learning to grind your own tools offhand was a part of the standard Government Training Centre course in Centre Lathe Turning, and the effort spent on it has repaid itself for me more times than I can describe.

Thread: Worried
29/09/2019 10:26:23

Frankly, I think we should be grateful that we've really only 2 major unit systems to worry about.

I can remember reading an artillery manual from the 1790s that had large and extensive conversion tables between weight and dimensional units for different European states (some no longer extant now), further complicated by the fact that units that had 3 or 4 DP conversion factors between different states might still share the same name, or literal translation thereof. For example, IIRC the English Pound differed from both the French Livre and the Prussian Pfund, and both were translated as Pound in the manual...

And there are still Russian rifles from WW1 or thenabouts with their sight ranges calibrated in Arshins.


Edited By Mick B1 on 29/09/2019 10:29:56

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
27/09/2019 16:04:11

More messing about with brass and scrollsaw.

Cormorant this time:-


Carol likes it a lot, but I dunno if I ought to just re-black it and do the feathers with the vibro engraver, though it'd be a bit tedious... And I've not found a brass-blacking solution that's easy to use and works well.

Thread: M&W rules now better...
27/09/2019 13:00:01
Posted by Circlip on 27/09/2019 10:49:49:

Must have been the same religion as Neil's, Never measure from the end of a rule. I still always start from the first full numeral, be it rule or tape. Other commandment, NEVER use a milling cutter in a drill chuck, emphasised with a piece of 4 x 2 (100 x 50) on the back of the head. I still remember everything taught by my crusty old mentors from my apprentice (PROPPER ones) days.

Regards Ian.

Well, to me, engineering is about being ingenious - the words have the same root - and that means adapting your solutions to meet the issues you find, not regarding advice given long ago in a different situation as holy writ. Sure, there are plenty of times when it's better to use a line than the end, but never is too big a word.

There are times when I've used a small milling cutter in big drill chuck, too, for light cuts - though I'd agree it's not generally desirable.

27/09/2019 09:21:13
Posted by Hopper on 26/09/2019 23:40:45:

I wouldn't be surprised if the ruler in the first pic is a knock-off. Very poor definition of both the numbers and the lines compared with the ruler in the second pic. Almost as if the first were cheaply etched using a M&W as the original.

There is a lot of it about. Look at all the "Mitutoyo" dial gauges and calipers out there that clearly are not from Mitutoyo. So widespread that Mitutoyo has a page on their website on how to distinguish the fakes. Even buying from a reputable supplier is no guarantee these days. They get fooled too.

Same thing has been happening with fake "genuine" Toyota car parts. Being imported by the container load over here. (Oz)

Hmmm... well, the second example came from the same well-known and (AFAIK) well-regarded supplier as the first. I would have *thought* that they'd maintain quite a careful watch over what was getting into their supply chain.

However, for decades now the brand-name on many items has had a pretty tangled relationship with the actual maker - it often represents at best a set of inspection standards, and at worst a milking of badge-reputation that by its nature can only be temporary. So I don't know if the term "knock-off" actually has any verifiable meaning these days.

26/09/2019 17:16:57
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 26/09/2019 16:53:52:

In school I was taught never to measure from the end of the rule unless you absolutely have to.


I'd say it depends on the wear state of the rule, the accessibility and regularity of the datum face, prevailing lighting conditions and maybe other things I've not thought of - but I certainly do so sometimes.

Edited By Mick B1 on 26/09/2019 17:17:26

26/09/2019 15:10:02

There was a thread a year or so back illustrating an apparent error on M&W 6"/15cm. steel rules, where mine and at least one other were showing the same short measure on the first 1/2 mm. :-


I lost this rule shortly after this, and was using another "Products Engineering" rule instead - but lately this has lost the blacking in some of the calibrations and was sometimes hard to read, so I bought a new M&W to see if they've fixed the problem.

It looks as if they have:-

m&w rule2.jpg

I think the markings may be deeper too.

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