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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford Vice for Vertical Slide
15/07/2019 16:40:43

Looking at that pic, I'd want to make up two strips of steel flat with suitable holes spaced for those mounting slots. I think washers would force the t-bolts too far out for comfort.

Ah, I see Alan Vos suggested something similar...

Edited By Mick B1 on 15/07/2019 16:42:40

14/07/2019 11:41:05
Posted by Mike Donnerstag on 14/07/2019 11:00:52:

Michael Gilligan: Mine has the engraving of the Myford name and part number too.

Jeff Dayman: The fixed jaw has no holes drilled at all, though there's nothing to stop me from drilling it for fitting false jaws, though I'm worried a little about the resulting accuracy.

If you use gauge plate as Michael suggests, that would probably solve the whole issue with no loss of accuracy - though my preference would be to avoid magnets and use socket head countersunk screws in the jaw insert, possibly with clearance holes in the fixed jaw, nutted onto a spotface on the outside. That way you can set the top edge of the gauge plate insert parallel to the floor of the vice and tighten it there - though you might have other ways to achieve the same result.

Thread: Different ways of boring a hole
14/07/2019 10:21:44

Providing it's in balance, there's a slight advantage in rotating the workpiece in that the swarf is less likely to be be forcefully flung about the place when drilling.

The only reason for doing 3) would be a long precision hole where the boring bar in the chuck alone could flex.

If it's a thin item, see NDIY's reply, or trepan it if the bore's big enough to make a tool for it. It's obviously more difficult to set up a trepan op on a faceplate than a chuck. You might use a combination of trepan and parting if you're cutting a thin ring from a bigger billet.

Thread: Any other bowmakers on here?
14/07/2019 09:32:51

My missus plays cello in a good amateur orchestra, and she just bought a fibreglass bow as a temporary replacement whilst her 'good' bow is rehaired. She says it's practically indistinguishable in use.

Thread: Myford Vice for Vertical Slide
14/07/2019 09:24:19
Posted by not done it yet on 14/07/2019 07:08:23:

I don’t know how ‘original’ that vise might be. Could have been cast in some back yard in India. I would expect subcontract machine shops would have far better vises to start with - not a myford hobby exhibit.

Likely, too, that any hard-worked commercial vise has replaceable jaws?

I suspect it is not a vise from the 70s or before. Myford quality started(?) to go downhill when they imported from asia? Cheap and cheerful, I would suggest. Cheap casting, minimum machining and no replacable wearing parts. Give me an Abwood any day (probably now sourced from the far east but built robustly).

They might have been better to start with, but some I've seen had had the handgrip hammered off the handle, and the 'replaceable' inserts - or for that matter the whole vice - looked as if they'd been chewed by a steel dog with carbide teeth. This was in the 70s - there were very many workshops being run hard on a shoestring with knackered kit even then.

14/07/2019 09:13:06
Posted by JasonB on 14/07/2019 06:58:40:

Image from Here

Gordon Bennett - never seen owt like that before. Can't see either radius or undercut in that corner.

I still think a radius raises some 'fitness for purpose' issues. I've never noticed one on any vice I've used, and if I ever buy another, I'll make sure it's like my current one and allows datuming off a square-cornered flat located against fixed jaw and vice floor.

14/07/2019 06:29:36
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 13/07/2019 22:46:49:
Posted by Mick B1 on 13/07/2019 22:12:21:
Posted by John Haine on 13/07/2019 20:54:23:

I assume (to repeat) it's there to avoid stress concentration.

I can't imagine how a plausible stress concentration would compromise accuracy more than the indeterminate datum Mike's suffering from.

.

I think John's point was that cracks start where stress is concentrated !!

MichaelG.

Anybody seen a vice cracked there, ever?! surprise

I've seen some deeply abused vices, especially in subcontract machine shops, but never a crack at the base of the fixed jaw.

13/07/2019 22:12:21
Posted by John Haine on 13/07/2019 20:54:23:

I assume (to repeat) it's there to avoid stress concentration.

I can't imagine how a plausible stress concentration would compromise accuracy more than the indeterminate datum Mike's suffering from.

13/07/2019 20:18:33

Seeing that radius at the base of your fixed jaw - from a firm like Myford - surprises me.

Here's mine:-millingvice.jpg

I now don't think it's Myford as it has no name on it. It was clearly designed to fit Myford slides, though, from the screwhole spacing. It came in a blue plastic box - long since lost in house moves - and I bought it at the Olympia show in 2003 for about 20 quid, and it's served me well since.

I thought all small milling vices were undercut like this to clear dirt and debris and ensure the location faces were definitive - to me, the radiused design looks like a bit of a rookie error.

Edited By Mick B1 on 13/07/2019 20:18:50

12/07/2019 21:47:03

Don't really know what you mean by 'arris', and internet definitions don't really help.

My vice (which I *think* is a Myford) does seem to hold material square with in a thou or two on my double-swivel vertical slide.

If it didn't, I don't really see why I shouldn't skim it square with a decent carbide endmill - it's machinable. The finish wouldn't be as perfect as I'd like, but it'd be better than an out-of-square jaw.

If yours is not machinable, I'd say that's a good enough reason to spend not too much money on one that is - occasionally you might need to cut a special location.

Thread: Work Shop Talk - Tour of my Work Shop
12/07/2019 09:17:20
Posted by Blue Heeler on 12/07/2019 01:29:07:
Posted by Mick B1 on 11/07/2019 13:28:03:
Posted by 34046 on 10/07/2019 11:52:04:

Jim

Thanks for posting

Particularly like the the jars fixed to the ceiling - out of the way and easy to see the contents.

Bill

Neat idea, but somebody gotta eat a whole lotta jam...

Salsa jars

Lotsa tortilla chips, then. That better, or worse?

I'm just 69 - dunno if I'm gonna have anywhere near enough time... surprise

11/07/2019 13:28:03
Posted by 34046 on 10/07/2019 11:52:04:

Jim

Thanks for posting

Particularly like the the jars fixed to the ceiling - out of the way and easy to see the contents.

Bill

Neat idea, but somebody gotta eat a whole lotta jam...

Thread: One for the shooting fraternity!
10/07/2019 20:29:22
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 10/07/2019 17:37:31:

Good job you had the foresight to check

(ROFLing at my own wit).

Neil

Hmmm... rearsight; or maybe - considering their age - hindsight? devil

Thread: brass needed
10/07/2019 19:06:02
Posted by jimmy b on 10/07/2019 18:10:45:

**LINK**

 

Macc Models?

 

Jim

Indeed. I've bought several 3" dia x 1" blanks from Macc, for nutcrackers (styled after Austrian modernist Carl Aubock  - in me album) I was making for the family. Good price. There's another supplier on Rope St. Stoke, JTP non-ferrous, who did me one for £15 when Macc was closed.

Edited By Mick B1 on 10/07/2019 19:07:27

Thread: One for the shooting fraternity!
09/07/2019 20:59:30

The PH16's not as substantial as the fullbore target sights I was used to, and doesn't appear to have the range of adjustment to cope with the full spread of distances and possible windages, but could certainly work well over a limited segment.

Seems to cover pretty much the full range of calibres from the better sub-12 ft.lb. airguns to 2000+ ft.lb. military fullbores. Not the sort of thing you'd want for the heavy-game express rifles, though .

Thread: Best instructions
06/07/2019 08:26:01

I think the Airfix written instructions of the 1950s taught me an approach to technical English that I used to various extents for decades in adult life. I wrote many instruction manuals for specialist software over about 30+ years.

IKEA pictographic instructions are also usually pretty effective, but don't generally have to cope with multiple alternative operations with different selection criteria. But then neither did Airfix.

Thread: Microns ...
05/07/2019 13:33:34

I've cracked this one before, but it might run again here:-

I was on a chair-bodging course using pole lathes, and when we were turning the location spigots on the legs we were supposed to turn them to a tight hand-fit in the jaws of a spanner that was being handed round (22mm A/F IIRC).

One of the punters snorted loudly: "Hah! I've worked to microns!".

Quick as a flash the instructor came back: "Maybe, but I've worked with morons..."

05/07/2019 12:14:59
Posted by JasonB on 05/07/2019 09:34:58:

I thought that was what Michael was saying

If I read that I would say it is displaying 245 point 107 microns. the um after the number is a big clue

Michael is saying it displays 245,107 nanometers. Which I would say should be displayed as 245107 nm

I'm sure if it had been the other way round the pedant in Michael would have been the first to point it out.

Edited By JasonB on 05/07/2019 09:37:20

When I worked in a tool drawing office for a teleprinter manufacturer (remember those?) the rule was that in Metric drawing dimensions the decimal point was to be denoted with a comma. The display itself violates that.

devil

Thread: What do you use your lathe for?
03/07/2019 16:53:04
Posted by 34046 on 03/07/2019 15:27:59:

I do more woodturning on my metal lathe than I do on the wood lathe.

Bill

That happened to me too. Eventually I realised that I could do everything that I could on the wood lathe on the metal lathe too; and the wood lathe had been a pointless sidetrack. It went.

Thread: Treppaning a flywheel
03/07/2019 11:17:36

My first thought would be to reduce the top rake - I've generally used 0 degrees for CI and brass if the tool was made for that material. You can get away with a general-purpose tool with top rake on less demanding cuts, but trepanning's a bit different.

Secondly I'd agree with Jason about reducing the width, though I dunno if I'd halve it.

Is there a curve on the front cutting edge? I'm not sure if it's actually necessary, but I've always used one and trepanning *normally* works OK for me...

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