Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Completed Twin Inline IC Engine|
Thanks for that - all clear now. I didn't know about the high oil content in the mix, I could see there's not really room for wet sump and splash, and I guessed aero-engine revs would (typically) be rather higher than a lawnmower...
I'm obviously talking way above my level here - I never twigged the petroil lube or 180 crankshaft, which presumably are referenced in the drawings or backing literature, or maybe just expected background knowledge. I'm sure I've seen ball and roller mains and bigends in 2- and 4-stroke m/c engines that weren't force-lubricated, so I'd imagine your theory will *probably* work. But of course, in the 2-stroke case, unburnt petroil passes through the crankcase and over the components inside, whereas what's getting there in your engine - if I've understood correctly - is burnt combustion blowby. Will there be any effective oil left in that?
|Thread: Stuart Beam Engine|
Running a caliper across the top of mine, it looks as if my column top is 2.111" across, with 55-56 thou recesses to achieve the 2.00" arm gap. I'd think it's the 2.00" across the recess bottoms - with equal depth recesses - that you need to attend to, or several other dimensions'll be thrown out. But the thin flanges above and below the recesses only fit fresh air, so the height of those is not very significant.
|Thread: Completed Twin Inline IC Engine|
Outstanding piece of work.
I'm familiar with 4-stroke parallel twins from motorbikes a long time ago, and this has a similar configuration, but what about ongoing lubrication? The parallel twins I remember had oil pumps, internal oilways to crank- and camshafts, dry sump systems and separate tanks.
|Thread: Surface finish|
With a decent HSS tool, there's practically no such thing as not being fast enough. Sometimes finishing and screwcutting is done at speeds of 10 M per minute or less, or even by hand-rotating the spindle or chuck for some tasks.
|Thread: Angle checker|
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful" (William Morris)
So no, not me.
I'll keep one whose fine precision is suspect (currently an old Aldi one) for rough work and to avoid exposing a good one to very dirty conditions, but as soon as it becomes untrustworthy for that, out it goes.
|Thread: Emco Compact 5|
That's certainly true. Nevertheless the current Unimat 3 clone - Sieg C0 - is not materially inferior in quality, and has some real advantages like stepless speed variability and 67% more motor power.
It also doesn't destroy drive belts at the rate my Unimat 3 used to...
Edited By Mick B1 on 29/12/2018 13:37:16
|Thread: Angle checker|
It may not be that you can't see it, just that you don't.
I've certainly had things that remained hidden in plain sight.
I've known people at work who could do that...
|Thread: Min lathe steady rest for up to 65mm diameter|
Go for the easiest solution you can afford. If there's a suitable 3-point for your model of mini lathe, or one you could modify, don't waste time you could be using to make the things you actually want. It's too easy to become enmeshed in tooling projects that never leave you free to pursue your real interests.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Not today, but 4 days back ... finished this little racer to go with the 3-year-old grandkid's little garage set. It's titanium, brass and delrin, 22mm track by 67 long.
|Thread: Tiffany & Co Advert with lathe|
I couldn't see a chuck key, right or wrong - but there's a whole raft of unpleasant possibilities if he starts it up.
Oh wait, were you punning on the the golden 'Key'? Ngerrr...
|Thread: Best way to turn long, thin brass job|
Roller Boxes and Vee Boxes are - or used to be - common capstan lathe tools. A biggish casting projects toward the chuck/collet from the tailstock or capstan, with an adjustable toolbit to turn the diameter and either 2 rollers or a vee to support the workpiece against the cut. The roller boxes were used for steel components and could take very substantial cuts in an industrial power machine - one of the first exercises in the Government Training Centre course in the 70s was to take some 25mm A/F hex bar and roller box-turn a bolt with a 10mm diameter mirror-bright finish 100mm long. Then index to a second roller or vee box, turn 8 dia x 12 mm long, index to a die box and thread the small diameter M8. The rollers in the box tool followed closely behind the toolbit and polished the surface. The vee box wasn't as good and was more often used from brass and other soft metals.
You'd need quite a cute one to turn a long 1/16" diameter - the sort of tool you'd be more likely to see on a Swiss Auto in the clock or instrument industries.
Edited By Mick B1 on 21/12/2018 20:54:34
|Thread: Warco v Chester.|
They dealt decently and knowledgably with a problem I had.
Edited By Mick B1 on 20/12/2018 19:31:29
|Thread: HSS lathe tools|
The OP mentioned screwcutting. How easy is it to get the 55 or 60 degree angle on a toolbit for the Eccentric Diamond? At first sight it doesn't look straightforward, and might require quite a lot of material to be ground away owing to the depth of the front face in this configuration.
The main point I think is that we all come to our own solutions over time, and circumstances and work type are at least as important as toolmaking techniques and purchasing decisions in determining which shortcuts - if any - work well for us.
I made a 'L' section support that allows me to use 1/4" square-section HSS toolbits, sized so that a 10 thou or so grind on the top surface will be on centre height. So I can grind interchangeable toolbits with tips of various shapes and rake angles - inside and outside rads, thread forms, angles, left- and right-hand knife profiles. I've found the HSS sets have only one or two tools I'll use in unmodified form - I end up grinding them to something I do want. And I have to say that in at least one case I've found their HSS suspect - it wore very quickly in a sort of crumbly, crystalline fashion that I've never seen in a simple square-section blank, wherever it may've come from.
|Thread: Drill Speed|
They look like reasonable guidelines, at least for the twist drills - which I use far more often than any of the others.
But guidelines are all they can ever be. Job-specific conditions relating to work- and/or toolholding and/or cooling/lubrication and/or material condition can always introduce issues that might cause you to vary from them.
|Thread: Colbalt Lathe tools|
My father-in-law gave me 2 pieces of 1/2" square Cobalt HSS in 1975. I ground one of them to a 55 degree screwcutting tool. I have to admit that my use of it has been highly intermittent, but I've only recently reground it for the first time, after doing some 1" x 8 TPI threads about 6" long for locomotive superheater header bolts.
Use it at reasonable cutting speeds, and it could last a lifetime - though I suspect the basic quality of the HSS might be as important as the cobalt...
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
More difficult in the breech ring than the plug, I'd think... >
|Thread: Vertical milling attachment vs combo lathe/mill??|
The addition of a milling column to a lathe has always looked spindly to me. For milling in what is primarily a lathe, the vertical slide has always seemed to me far more rigid.
I've wanted a milling machine for ever, but with my double-swivel vertical slide I've so far always found that for model engineering I can actually manage with what I have - so the purchase of a mill goes onto the back burner yet again.
Certainly the wide cross slide on my WM250V is far stiffer for milling than the same setup on the Myford Speed 10 I had previously, and the fine powered cross-feed allows a very good finish. Metal removal rate and envelope are both limited, of course, but - as I said - I've so far found I can manage. There may still came a time when that changes but it's certainly a good working start.
|Thread: Flycutters: help to understand 3 different types|
Ah, yes, thanks - that's what I'd do. I smooth the point rad with a medium India oilstone and usually get a shiny finish, like on the fishes in my album or the valve face here:-
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