Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: A close shave or why safety glasses are a must|
If you ain't doin' this fer pay, run slow and cut light.
|Thread: Moving from Warco WM180 to a Myford ML7B ?|
+1 on that. I think it'd be a sideways move at best, unless the Myford's very tidy and there're a lot of accessories with it that you don't have for the Warco.
|Thread: Simple WorkshopTips|
If you use a vertical slide for milling in the lathe, set it square to the bed by bringing the vice up to the front face of the chuck jaws before you tighten it. Saves a lot of clock-faffing.
|Thread: Warco WM250 Carriage Drive Gear Shaft BENT - Help|
Sounds good - you seem to've had to dismantle more than I did.
Did you find out what caused the bend? Must've been some sort of interference event to have bent the shaft that badly - I wondered if a big piece of debris got trapped between rack and pinion under power feed?
I know the shear pins don't always go - when I bent my pinion shank the leadscrew pin didn't, one of the change gear keyed bushes broke instead. I thought about putting an undercut into the pin, but I keep making the excuse that greater familiarity with the machine makes such incidents less likely.
Edited By Mick B1 on 04/04/2019 21:28:59
I bent the pinion on my WM250V soon after receiving it, by engaging longitudinal feed on a locked saddle when I'd meant to engage crossfeed. It resulted in a very tight spot in carriage movement about every 3 turns of the handwheel.
I lived with this for a while - it doesn't sound as serious as yours - but ultimately found that I could fix it completely with a crowbar! Run the saddle near the tailstock and find the worst tight spot; locate the toe of the crowbar against the shank of the pinion away from the teeth; brace the peak of the shallow bend of the crowbar against the corner of the apron and lever upwards. It took me 3 attempts, but at the end of it I'd cured the problem completely, and so far as I know permanently, at no cost.
However, I'm puzzled by your description. You say your pinion engages and disengages but you don't describe any jams or tight spots, (afternote - read it again, and you did!) so it almost sounds as if the pinion's axis of rotation has been displaced downward, and I don't understand how that could happen without tearing out the carriage to apron bolts...
Talking of which, those 4 caphead bolts at the edges of the carriage are key to dropping the apron. You also have to unbolt the far leadscrew bracket, and pull back the headstock telescopic leadscrew cover, to poke out the shear pin that drives the leadscrew from the geartrain stub. Can't remember anything else offhand. You can then remove the apron gearbox and leadscrew together - take care not to spill the oil. My reason for removing the apron gearbox was that the crossslide shear pin had fallen out into it and got into the pinion that drives the drive pinion, jamming it solid - which sounds nothing like your problem.
I got some helpful advice from Warco, but it didn't sound as if they were familiar with the problem. They might know more about it now - the WM250V was, I think, quite a new or maybe revised product at that time 4 years ago.
Edited By Mick B1 on 02/04/2019 21:19:47
|Thread: Rulers - my pet peeve|
I carry two 6" flexible steel rules in my top pocket, one satin and one black. In most lighting conditions I find the black one with white markings easiest to read.
The problem I find is getting a replacement for the black one as it gets worn. I have a good one at present, but all it says on it apart from the graduations and the standard 20 C statement is 'Stainless' and 'Made In Taiwan'. I wish I could get another, because it's lasted far longer than the Products Engineering black version I had, which is the only black rule that seems to be generally available - that started to lose its finish and get shiny and spotted after I used it for the engineer's legitimate purpose of stirring me cuppa!
You'd think the designers had never factored that in to the spec...
Edited By Mick B1 on 02/04/2019 08:50:39
|Thread: Unusual miniature|
Looking at the registration plates of the cars in the background it looks like it's maybe in Schleswig-Holstein, not far from Lübeck.
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
By 'eck, that's a dreadful story! I always heard that more tanks were lost to mechanical failure than enemy action - at least in the early part of the North African campaign, but my uncle's stories were that it was sand getting in everywhere. But there were later tales of tanks (Valentines, I thought?) running 3000 miles without major servicing.
|Thread: Rectangular magnetic chucks for milling?|
I'd expect grinding with its continuous force and light cuts to exert a far lower peak force on the magnetic grip than the rapid succession of impacts from milling cutter flutes.
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
Think I'm with Maurice on this - two You Tubes I found of these howitzers shooting both showed the top strakes slanted rear inside to front outside, and both guns recoiling and returning straight as far as could be seen. There seems to have been a much wider type of wheel employed on some examples.
Doh! Teach me to go off 'arf-cocked ... just seen about a 2-second counter-example in one of those 2 vids...
Edited By Mick B1 on 31/03/2019 12:36:36
...and there are similar contradictions in illustrative diagrams in the (US) Handbook of the 8-inch Howitzer Materiel, Model of 1917 (Vickers Mk.VI). Couldn't readily see anything ordering removal and refit of wheels ar$e-about-face if firing within specific elevation ranges or other contingencies, so my guess is it didn't matter as long as the strake slant was opposite on each side.
Edited By Mick B1 on 31/03/2019 12:56:41
|Thread: Advice on Choosing A Mini Lathe|
Is it worth commenting on the availability of milling slides for these lathes? I think there are small ones about, and having one can forestall the need to find the price and space for a proper mill, at least for smaller projects.
|Thread: Chinese 7x10 lathe|
Not necessarily. Some of us have run a S/H British machine for years, then replaced it with new Chinese and been very happy with the outcome. It remains to be seen whether the Far Eastern machines will exhibit the extreme longevity of some Brit kit - but in my case, although I use the machine most days, I'm already satisfied it'll likely be an issue for my heirs and successors to debate, not me!
|Thread: Dishwasher detergents|
"Tinier than empires and more quick" (apologies to Andrew Marvell) I think.
I can remember when Mitutoyo were regarded as up-and-coming cheapies.
I can think of quite a few brands that started off that way and are now regarded as the bees' knees, but it's much harder to think of a once top-class brand that's now languishing at the downmarket end - usually decline is quickly followed by termination. Ah, your Nokia example might be a candidate.
Lidl sell a brand (maybe an own-brand) of cleaning stuff called W5, and their dishwasher tabs have worked well enough for us for a few years now. I can't remember the exact price, but it's not very much for 40-off.
Edited By Mick B1 on 30/03/2019 14:07:22
|Thread: Have your fathers habits rubbed off on you. Just for fun|
No. My dad was an academic specialising in adult education. He was proud that he alone among his acquaintances owned a screwdriver - he also had an excellent pair of slip-joint pliers that I still use 40 years after his death.
It would never have occurred to him to store paint, because painting was always done by others in his world. He might have been able to fit an electric plug so long as he had a diagram, but he was happier if I did it.
He was puzzled by my preoccupation with machinery and tools, but respected it.
What I took from him was an understanding that intelligence has as many dimensions as a Stephen Hawking multiverse.
Edited By Mick B1 on 30/03/2019 06:34:21
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Bed Wear|
I think I'd've wanted to clean it with a soft brush and a gallon or three of paraffin or white spirit, somewhere I could drain the runoff. And have a look at the headstock bearings.
Not that I've ever seen grinding sparking do anything like that - I'd think you'd see it on surface grinder tables all the time if it was a normal result - but it isn't a comforting explanation.
I'd rather believe summat else, me...
If that's so, all the more reason for a critical examination throughout, and a thorough washdown to get rid of the abrasive grit that could be in any and all parts of the machine.
Nah, that'd be on the far side of the bed.
As someone else said recently - don't ask me how I know...
I think it's also true as others have said that the bed wear itself and the bruise marks as shown aren't especially serious - it's whatever else there may be that's not so conspicuous that could be worrying.
|Thread: Any Recent Progress in Induction Heating ?|
I think I've seen a little induction loop heater used for general soldering in a silversmith's craft workshop - or did I just make that up?
|Thread: Its nearly there !|
All the same, I'm finding it hard to fit a mechanism that functioned in regular use with no maintnenance for 35+ years without fault into my definition of 'defective'.
There was no lack of consideration, because I'd never heard any of the tales current here of the Dewhurst being unfit for this purpose, and in any case the lathe had been in use with that switch probably since the late '70s. It ran from 2000 to 2015 in my workshop with no evidence of fault in the switch. It sounded to me as if a contactor operated when the switch did, so perhaps it wasn't handling full mains voltage, but I had no reason to investigate.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.