Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Travelling Steady|
I'm a bit surprised you bother with a travelling steady - I've used one maybe half-a-dozen times in 40+ years, and only for turning lengths of about 10 diameters or more.
Your total depth of cut only needs to be 0,25mm or about 10 thou, and you've only a length of 6 or 7 diameters to turn. 3-jaw chuck plus tailstock running centre should do fine. I'd probably do 2 passes of about 0,2 and 0,05mm, but that's only if the 12mm diameter has a tight tolerance.
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
You can also get very good concentricity in a 3-jaw by using a set of soft jaws which you can bore to a set dimension whilst gripping a scrap piece of known round bar. These work best for components you've machined them to fit, but are often also useful for parts within a small range around that diameter.
My Warco's 3-jaw used with bar in the 6 - 20 mm diameter range will also often run within 0.001" TIR. I'm thinking that general build tolerances for such equipment may have improved since the 1970s.
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
In my own workshop sometimes I do, and sometimes I don't, as the whim takes me.
Can't remember cutting myself on a sawn end, though - perhaps because I've a habit of looking at the material as I pick it up. I suppose I'm much more likely to clean up and chamfer if I think somebody else might be picking up that material, though.
|Thread: Which metal for which job?|
I always thought Stubbs was silver steel - at tleast the silver steel I used to buy was so marked, though I've more recently had silver steel that performed OK, but wasn't.
Since the mechanical clocks I've seen don't generally run at 'let-down' temperatures, and silver steel can more-or-less match tool steels in hardness at normal ones, and the severe abrasion prevalent in - say - fine-blanking press tool punches isn't a standard condition in clocks, I can't really see where tool steel would be necessary.
But hey, I don't really know anything specific about clocks, and there could easily be demands I'm unaware of. Perhaps if you have to harden a plate and preserve some very precise hole-centre placings, an NSOH tool steel like BO1 or similar might be indicated?
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
There was a bit of a fashion for it - the Hillman Imp and NSU Prinz were also popular for a time.
|Thread: Cleaning a new lathe before using...|
Eeeeeuwww... that's a good deal worse than I think mine was in 2015. I never looked in the apron gearbox until the crossslide leadscrew shearpin fell into it in 2017 - then there was grit at the bottom but the gears didn't pick it up and the oil pool was clean (-ish )
Perhaps the gritty chicken fat is Running In Paste? My Warco got no more than a basic wipe over the exposed slideways before being put into service, and 4 years later now runs with a happy, smooth hum.
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
You're right about implying an event. I don't think those marks inside the backplate register could've arisen without one that involved some force beyond simple manual pressure.
Worth adding that in the first set of pictures there are scuff marks on the spindle register that might correspond. Difficult to know how serious they might be without copping a feel...
Nay lad, tha c'd well be right. Possibly a raised lip on the lower edge of the darkest gouge about a pitch or two above the thread?
|Thread: Armchair Engineering?|
I use this one from Ikea - it's a sort of Gucci swivel tank-gunner's seat.
It even comes in WW2 German Panzer Grey.
It discourages verbosity 'cause you don't wanna sit on it that long.
Pity it seems to be NLA.
|Thread: Quality digital vernier calipers|
I've just damaged my approx. 5-year-old M&W by dropping it and raising a .003" burr on the slim bit of the fixed jaw. I think it's been OK within its half-thou resolution up to now, but it lost its thumbwheel last year so I'm retiring it - I don't know if I'd ever quite trust a stoned-off burr.
|Thread: Recommend a threading tool for Warco WM250|
I've only ever ground my own from HSS. The last one I used was a Whitworth 55 degree tool I ground in 1975 from a 1/2" square HSS blank my father-in-law gave me, on 1" BSW steel bolt. I've used it for alli too - it's got about 10 deg. top rake on it so it works well enough for most stuff - I think it'd probably be OK on brass or suchlike too.
I guess I use 8mm square blanks mostly for screwcutting tools, and 1/4" square for most other work.
Other things about the setup - workholding and component design - are generally far more influential on the way you do a screwcutting op than the cutting tool itself. For example, threading a nut to an internal shoulder may be better done turning the chuck by hand than under power.
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
I'd guess there's a bruise that's stopping the backplate locating properly against its datum face, and tilting it. My Myford was a Speed 10, and in any case I can't remember whether the bottom of the backplate register bore or the back face of the backplate contacted first, but it could well be that engagement that's being compromised.
The runout of a straight parallel bar should vary with distance from chuck face if that's what's going on.
|Thread: Warco WM250 Chuck maximum size|
On my WM250V, there'd be just less than 1/2" clearance between the lowest point of the 5" chuck and the top of the crossslide - if you could get it that close to the headstock, which just can't quite do because the telescopic leadscrew cover bottoms out.
So I think that if the 6" chuck is deeper than the as-issued 5" - which it likely is - you might want to rig up some kind of additional stop to avoid collision risk. The compound slide would probably still give you enough reach for close-in chuck work like parting and boring, but that's a bit of a guess.
My self, I'd wanna be really sure both that I needed the extra capacity, and that I could get the new chuck as true as the issued one - I think mine is the best I've ever used.
Edited By Mick B1 on 28/07/2019 18:18:18
|Thread: Stuart 10 V casting|
It *looks to me* as if you've not quite got through the hard skin on the left. Small iron castings tend to chill in spots where there's less bulk to hold the heat, and the iron is locally much harder at those points. Where it resists the tool you can get a glossed, rippled finish. Perfect cast iron has a bit of an open 'micro-Aero' texture with tiny graphite-lined surface porosities. In some deeper places you can get concentrations of graphite, and I'm thinking that may have happened to the lower lug shown in your second pic.
But really you need to waggle it about to get different lighting angles to get proper view of the surface.
Looking at the base of my 10V - made more than 20 years back - I don't think I machined it at all, but probably emeried it flat with wet-and-dry and WD40 on my bench drill stage. The flat faces of the bed and the standard, as well as the cylinder of course, are more critical, and you should find you've got enough material there to clear the chilled skin completely.
Edited By Mick B1 on 27/07/2019 21:42:40
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
David and Michael are probably on the right track, but I'd add that I think you can expect the 3-jaw fit on the screwed spindle nose to be more exacting than it is for the 4-jaw even if everything's in good nick. That's the way it was on my Speed 10 - I had to align the 3-jaw more accurately when starting the thread to screw it on, or it would bind on the parallel bore in the backplate before the threads even met. The 4-jaw was a good deal easier.
The accuracy of that location is obviously less significant on the 4-jaw where the user and not the chuck is setting the workpiece centre of rotation.
I guess I'd start by looking at the bore in the backplate for bruising.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Bloke from Carriage and Wagon dept. asked about router collets cos one of his had broken up. Couldn't find anything quite the same on the web (.250" bore x 16.75 mm OAL), so made him this outa silver steel:-
Didn't harden it because the previous had broken up where the petals join the base ring, and I thought silver steel's probably tough enough as bought and it'd be silly to risk embrittlement.
Rookie error in 3 o'clock slot where I did my mental arithmetic wrong in getting the slitting saw on centre - spotted and corrected it before any real harm done. Seems to work, but will await user comment.
|Thread: Amazing videos|
Looks to me like substantial batches of maddenly similar-but-not-quite-identical parts.
What I'm forced to admire is the capability to maintain critical concentration through such stultifyingly tedious work.
If I were to attempt anything of the sort I think I'd lose all my human relationships.
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
Hear, hear. But don't burn textbooks - there's an anti-Nazi German saying that says that if you burn books, you will generally end up burning people too. It'd be better to quietly supersede them (Latin super - above, sedere - sit, as in a higher court overruling a lower one's ruling) with books that explain the roots of our own languages.
Edited By Mick B1 on 24/07/2019 17:36:42
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