Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: press fit sizes|
Can you duck the issue with a tapped side hole and a grubscrew?
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
|Not so much to avoid risk of cuts - don't think I've ever cut myself that way - but to ensure a clean, true grip in the chuck, I deburr and usually chamfer the back end too.|
|Thread: Cutting a keyway without a broach|
+another 1 for Andrew's method.
I was actually taught to do it this way at the Government Training Centre where I learned the lathe in '75, and it was one of the exercises. Broaching was for batches of tens to hundreds.
I've used a similar technique to shape out square through-holes in the lathe from round - at some cost in blistered palms!
|Thread: Solution found to the World's biggest problem . . .|
Exactly, and the knowledge that any current tech level - and the infrastructure to support it - is temporary, as well as the need to keep factories working, only encourages the design and manufacture of limited-life products often unsuitable for repair/refurb.
I sometimes think that society has to make an actual decision to suspend some aspects of technical change, or it will continue to run out of control with results that in the end can only be catastrophic.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Walked past the 8F under rebuild in the shed yesterday, and saw this staring out at me:-
... and I'd thought Hallowe'en was over...
|Thread: what Christmas present|
Yes, but what size ? ! ?
I'll say. Mine never does that - it only hides stuff in plain sight, protected by a special spell so that I don't see it even if I can...
I thought they were all like that?
|Thread: Imminent rabbit invasion.|
Bet you'd forgotten that the 22nd Panzer Division was crippled at Stalingrad because mice had chewed the insulation on their tanks' wiring looms...
So don't laff ...
|Thread: What an earth are they called......|
Ah, no - didn't see any in 10mm. spring diameter. My missus has a Soari loom with adjustable-height legs that use these, but they're about 25mm/1in diameter.
Edited By Mick B1 on 01/11/2018 14:39:29
|Thread: Dial Gauge Advice|
Model Engineering itself is an idiosyncratic hobby.
You can expect big differences in the way its hobbyists have learned to resolve the problems they come across.
For example, I use my plunger and finger clocks about equally, but I mount them on a bit of flat bar in the toolpost, or in the lathe or drill chucks.
I only wish I had a magnetic base about once a decade...
|Thread: Workholding on the faceplate|
If you have a bench drill, why not drill the 1/2" or 13mm hole with that, then set it on the faceplate (taking into account the safety measures others have proposed) and bore it to finished size as 150 - 200 instead of 300?
If you're a model engineer, remember you ain't doin' this for pay.
Edited By Mick B1 on 31/10/2018 22:15:27
|Thread: Dial Gauge Advice|
True, but Baty at least make, or used to, a bellcrank-type finger-lever that clamps onto the plunger sleeve and allows the gauge to work in that situation. Still a bit of a faff compared to a finger-type gauge, though.
+1 for this.
I don't think the dichotomy of plunger-type being a Dial Gauge and finger-type being a DTI is definitive. Both names have been applicable to either all the time I've been in engineering.
Finger-type can reach and give readings in places the plunger-type can't, unless it's fitted with extra accessories. The finger will usually operate over a wide range of angles, accessed by overriding click-stops defined by a spring detent, but it's nearly always fiddly to set, while the plunger-type is usually more straightforward where it can be used.
I've got both. My plunger was given me 30 years ago by the Chief Inspector of the firm that made it, and it operates exceptionally smoothly even now, but my finger-type was a recovered scrapper due to the direction-shift lever being broken; fixed with a bit of paper-clip.
Edited By Mick B1 on 31/10/2018 14:05:57
|Thread: Boxford Model A stopping on slow speeds...?|
'Ang on a minute! It's not just newbies that get saved by spindles stalling under power!
I've been machining since the mid '70s, and I've still been saved more times than I can readily count in the last few years by my Warco stalling when asked to do something needing too much force.
Part of that is because I don't have a mill so I end up doing ops on the lathe that - shall we say - rather push the envelope of its capabilities...
|Thread: Taper turning|
Yes, I found that out in the 1970s - but a decent scale could get you close enough to cut out a lot of the faffing about.
That's true, but an accurate vernier scale could provide a capability to set the offset either from calculation or records of previous operations.
My Warco WM250V has a straightforward scale with no vernier. So far as I can see, it's totally NBG though - it's well off the marked centre when head- and tailstock centres are accurately point-to-point.
After a few very time-consuming and fiddly experiences on a number of lathes getting the tailstock back to centre, I generally avoid the offset centres method if I can.
I used a 60 degree wedge, with the flat side of the flange against the fixed vice jaw, when I did the hex on these castellated flange nuts. The 60 deg set square from a kids' geometry set would probably have done as well.
|Thread: Expanding Mandrel|
If you've only a few workpieces to do on it, alli's probably the easiest and cheapest. It's also relatively sticky, so generally provides good friction to drive the work. Brass is also easy to machine but is dearer and generally has a slicker surface, so it may need more tightening to give a good drive.
Steel's probably the one to use if there are a lot of wooden workpieces to do.
Whichever you use, the expansion will be local to the cone, so it will generally work best on short bores - or longer ones with reasonably close limits - or there'll be risk of yaw. If the wall is thin, there can of course be risk of cracking the piece on tightening.
|Thread: Drilling Bronze?|
Well, I don't know I'm sure. I've turned, drilled tapped and died the stuff (PB1) without noticing much difference from good BDMS. The tools need to be sharp, a bit of extra top-rake seems to help and the swarf comes off in ductile, helical ribbons, but I've not met any of the grief some seem to be describing. Maybe it's just that the components I've made in it are small? For example the acorn cups in my album pics.
I have seen some very high-copper bronze (or perhaps it is effectively just copper) that does exhibit all the difficulties described - to me it seems pretty much unmachineable. Taps stuck in it almost irretrievably, even with a hole 15 thou over tapping size. But it's the wrong colour for anything I've ever thought of as phosphor bronze.
Edited By Mick B1 on 26/10/2018 21:34:49
|Thread: wood turning|
...but not in the plane mine is...
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