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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Recommended Lathe speed?
09/04/2020 16:55:16
Posted by Chris V on 09/04/2020 16:04:09:

Thank you for your prompt responses guys, that confirms my suspicions as a novice.

Currently my top spindle speed is 675 RPM, my lathe being a 1930's ML1.

Clearly I'm not going to be able to run my lathe with adjustments to anything like that, so I should expect slow cutting progress and rough finish? (that's what I got)

Simplest way to increase speed I think will be to reduce the motor pulley size, something else for my to do list!



Not necessarily, A sharp knife tool with a little bit of top rake, good side and front clearance (say 5-10 deg, it's not an exact matter), a small nose rad and set over to a low plan trail angle, can peel it off with little effort at low speed and leave a fine finish. I use such a tool for 90% of everything, whatever the material. I gather that it's carbide tools that need high speeds for a good finish. I do use those occasionally, but not usually for finishing and hardly at all on materials like brass.

Thread: Center drills
09/04/2020 15:37:52
Posted by JasonB on 09/04/2020 15:28:34:

I think bill was referring to the point of the dead ctr in the tailstock not the drill's pilot.

Ah. Yes, I think burnt one out once, probably in the 70s, probably using sheeps' tallow as lubricant.

Maybe it's a thing you only do once - or most of us...


Thread: Recommended Lathe speed?
09/04/2020 15:10:53

The calc I was taught at Long Eaton Government Training Centre in 1975 says 1600 rpm for HSS.

But I'd be unlikely to exceed half that.

My pension doesn't depend on cubic inches per minute metal removal, but the admiration of family and friends does on visual appeal and attractive finish.

Thread: Center drills
09/04/2020 09:47:34
Posted by JasonB on 09/04/2020 06:58:37:

The main governing factor is the size of the part you are working on, I'f I'm making say a valve that only has a 3mm dia stem then I will use a BS0. (and still support it with a big centre) only going in to form the smallest 60deg chamfer. If on the other hand its a 300mm length of 50mm bar then I will use a larger one.

Edited By JasonB on 09/04/2020 07:26:53

+1 for that. I'm not sure how the pilot size is defined for BS centre drills. I've got some unbranded ones where it looks to be thinner and longer than on some Dormer examples I have, and therefore at greater risk of breakage.

A more fragile pilot puts the emphasis on chuck and tailstock concentricity in the very small sizes, so that's something to be aware of. However, provided the centre drill isn't being overstressed, it cuts all over - on the sides as well as the point, unlike a standard drill. That means you can also use it *with great care* as a tiny slot drill - I've found that useful on several occasions.

Thread: Coronavirus
08/04/2020 15:57:30
Posted by J Hancock on 08/04/2020 14:50:47:

Just maybe, an informative programme tonight on post-corona world, R4 8pm Fallout with Mervyn King and others.

Let's just get into the post-corona world on our feet, before we worry about it....

Thread: Cutting long tapers using homemade top/compound slide
07/04/2020 22:55:18
Posted by Howard Lewis on 07/04/2020 22:47:57:

If you want to turn a long taper, you can offsetb the tailstock (Don't forget to realign it afterwards )


OK, but the OP's illustrated piece would need a pretty big offset and also present what look like serious issues gripping the headstock end on the slant.

Thread: Will cash become obsolete ?
07/04/2020 18:11:23

There'd be a pointless data load to keep electronic records of all transactions down to the trivial, and a threat to privacy if you could be traced to every bun you bought in a market. It's also technologically vulnerable to need cardreaders and network connections to process even the tiniest payment. I think eliminating cash might be liked by governments because it makes (eg.) VAT evasion harder, but there'd be at least as much pressure from informal businesses to retain the simplicity of cash.

Thread: What is it with the fit of old slotted screws?!
07/04/2020 14:06:45
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 07/04/2020 11:56:27:

Some well-made firearms use(d) very narrow-slotted screws that look 'wrong' to engineers. Actually, it's a great idea. The turnscrew (approved jargon) used is chosen to fit. Its blade has a very shallow taper. Because the slot is relatively deep, the blade doesn't bottom out, so it wedges itself in the slot and doesn't slip out, ruining all the expensively-engraved action work. Safer than parallel-ground blades.

Thanks - that's a good explanation of wth the difference between screwdriver and turnscrew actually is. I'd just thought it was flannel and mystique.

There is a downside for the home gunsmith though - the thin slot will generally mean that he'll have to use a screwdriver that's much narrower than the screwhead, unless he understands enough to realise he's gotta shape his own. Force is less distributed and burring may result. So firearms that've been worked on by home gunsmiths - some of them quite good engineers but not knowing of the screwhead design 'feature' - can end up looking like they've spent some time in the chimpanzees' enclosure...

Edited By Mick B1 on 07/04/2020 14:22:33

Thread: Which Lathe???
06/04/2020 19:29:49

I have to admit to reluctance to switch chucks on my Warco. It's not so much the 3 fiddly nuts (and they are) but that I'm worried about losing the superb concentricity (best = appx. 0.0006" ) of the as-issued 3-jaw if I should get some tiny speck of anything trapped in the register.

Edited By Mick B1 on 06/04/2020 19:52:17

Thread: Soft jaws
06/04/2020 18:03:27
Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 06/04/2020 17:50:04:

How many here use soft jaws to hold parts in a lathe?

I've used them in to machine multiple parts as it means there is repeatability.

I use mine often. Not only do you get good concentricity but you can make a reliable shoulder for locating thin parts for facing work. I've found recesses of 3 increasing diameters allow me to do most work without further modification.

Edited By Mick B1 on 06/04/2020 18:04:12

Thread: Which Lathe???
06/04/2020 17:58:59
Posted by mgnbuk on 06/04/2020 16:58:14:

Broken teeth are a common problem on Myfords.

Super 7s have a spindle lock that enages at the rear of the spindle pulley to avoid this ? Seems to be more of an issue on earlier Boxfords that didn't have a spindle lock.

A "half way house" solution that offers the security of bolt-on,and almost as easy a change as a cam-lock (but without the expense) is the keyhole plate type - slacken the clamping nuts, then rotate the keyhole plate to release the chuck.

Nigel B

Edited By mgnbuk on 06/04/2020 16:58:40

What's the make that used a big screwed collar onto a short tapered register, with a C-spanner? I remember liking those when I was doing it for pay, but can't remember whose they were - Wyvern? Elliot? Boxford? I think maybe Colchester used it too?

06/04/2020 16:01:59
Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 06/04/2020 12:35:01:

If we didnt have passion and charisma in engineering, you wouldnt have motorcars like ferrari ,lamborghini...

I wouldn't care if we didn't. All they are is vanity possessions. They have no practical advantage over ordinary vehicles and represent a grotesque consumption of resources.

Not that I wanna get political or anyfing... devilwink

06/04/2020 10:37:10
Posted by thaiguzzi on 06/04/2020 10:20:08:
Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 05/04/2020 22:31:35:

Im looking into the Boxford box lathes, they maybe very efficient in what they do, which is of course the primary goal, but lack the charisma of a myford super 7 style lathe. Or Is it me just being a tart?

Yes, you are just being a tart.

Now where did i put those fishnets and stilletos?


A happy Boxford camper.

Yup, the moment you start talking about charisma, you've left Engineering.

06/04/2020 10:07:00
Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 05/04/2020 19:42:13:

So what chinese lathes are any good?

I replaced my Myford Speed 10 with a Warco WM250V five years ago. I kept my Jacobs chuck and Myford double-swivel vertical slide and used them on the Warco.

There were a couple of issues early on with the Warco, arguably my own fault, but all were resolved very successfully. I use it most days and have done a pretty wide variety of work on it. On every imaginable criterion it's a long way ahead of any ML10 variant.

I wouldn't go back to the Myford 10 now for all the tea in China.

Thread: Todays news -- well done
06/04/2020 09:57:24
Posted by Swarf Maker on 06/04/2020 01:03:06:

Every thing that you Raphael, and your colleagues do, is truly appreciated by anybody with a modicum of understanding.

Unfortunately, circumstances such as these can illuminate the differences in both intellect and understanding across the wide ranging members of our society.

I sincerely hope that you and your colleagues remain safe, both for your own sakes and for the rest of us.

Absolutely. We in lockdown don't see the agony in the hospitals and the homes of those in there.

The problem IMO is not lack of understanding - some of the rule-breakers probably have PhDs and better. In fact we've seen it in the Scottish MO.

It's ATTITUDE. Personal exceptionalism. "I can't see the harm, therefore there is none".

05/04/2020 18:53:51

I agree with Bill - IMO all the coppers did wrong was argue before dousing the barbie.

A walk on the beach for exercise is one thing - setting up for a meal is nothing but inyerface scoffing - literally.

Thread: Check my sums please
05/04/2020 10:37:33

It depends on how undesirable you think it is to have an odd-size axle. *Personally and on what I understand* I think I'd prefer your initial solution of overboring and bushing, so as to keep the axles all the same. It'd make future maintenance more straightforward. But hey, that's just me.

Thread: How do I drill this hole
04/04/2020 19:37:41
Posted by Old School on 04/04/2020 19:08:46:

The ends cannot be skimmed up on the side you cannot see there is a bracket for part of the suspension also I don’t have a steady for the lathe. So a non starter.

Its going in the mill


Not fair!!!! cryingcryingwink

Oh, go on - have it your way.... laugh

Edited By Mick B1 on 04/04/2020 20:01:15

03/04/2020 22:24:13

Perhaps accurately mark, centre-punch and centre drill both end bosses, in vice with handdrill if no other method available.

Grip one end boss in chuck, tailstock support other end and turn far boss to clean up.

Reverse component and similarly turn other end boss.

Set 3-point steady to replace tailstock support to far end boss - clock to centre.

Drill and ream 3/8" through.

Ah, looks like Georgineer got there first... oh, and Kiwi Bloke...


Edited By Mick B1 on 03/04/2020 22:25:12

Thread: Cutting long tapers using homemade top/compound slide
02/04/2020 15:03:20

From your last pic, you seem to me to be doing nicely wiv wotcha got.

I'm guessing that the drawback to an extra long topslide is the potential mutual obstruction between topslide handwheel at full retraction and tailstock, unless you have a chatter-prone tool projection at the toolpost, or some special toolholding arrangment to counter that.

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