Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Moore and Wright vintage protractor 994|
I think Nick Farr might be right about the fine graduations. I thumbed som almost-dried-up black Humbrol enamel from an old tin into the markings on mine. It looks quite readable on here:-
...but it doesn't help much with the naked eye. The numbers on the Vernier scale are very small.
A friend gave me this 994 about 20 years ago. It looks as if Bubba has been at the screws, but it wasn't me, or him. In any case it checks out as far as I'm able to do so.
|Thread: A worrying development in the Covid-19 battleground|
I don't know if anybody can. It's too easy for either to masquerade as the other, and then suddenly appear in the opposite aspect:
"If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same"
Not that it's any fun for those affected.
Edited By Mick B1 on 10/05/2021 15:20:05
|Thread: Moore and Wright vintage protractor 994|
I've got one of these M&Ws too, and sometimes find similar difficulties reading it.
The Lidl electronic thing I have has comparable resolution but requires zeroing first on a true flat surface that isn't always to hand. It also eats batteries, even when supposedly switched off.
ArcEuro, and others on the Bay and elsewhere, are advertising vernier protractors that appear very nicely made with a 2' resolution:-
I think these are Chinese and look identical to each other, but are showing a truly astonishing variety of prices across the net. Looks like from about £22 to about £132 for what seems to be the same product!
Anybody got a qualified opinion of these as an alternative to the classic M&W ?
Edited By Mick B1 on 10/05/2021 11:16:31
|Thread: First attempt at trepanning.|
+1 for the rad on the leading edge of the tool. Doesn't IMO need to be a full rad, and even a highly-obtuse vee will do - anything to divert the swarf towards the centreline of the tool to stop it jamming down the sides. Also as above, if you do put some front rake on it, make sure it doesn't run out back to the top surface of the tool within the thickness of the workpiece. Compound slides often offer better mechanical advantage and feel than saddle handwheels for feed, but that varies between machines - and users ...
|Thread: Mystery Round Thing - A New Thought|
I don't know if an engineering-based forum is the right place to be looking...
|Thread: Shipping to the EU - beware!|
And any of us who lived through decimalisation all knew they were gonna do that anyway, didn't we?
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
Andy Carlson - another 'Nice work' from here. Your exercise also shows the thinking processes that the vertical slide encourages.
Not quite milling, but here's a job made a lot easier with a swivel slide:-
I think it was a wing-mirror bracket for a classic car. Came out about 53 degrees - extrapolation because I'd run out of graduations on the swivel base.
To 're-tram' - set back square to spindle - all you have to do is open the chuck till its lower 2 jaws are as far apart as to span the fixed vice jaw, retract the crosslide, swing back the swivel and bring up the saddle till vice's jaw contacts chuck's, tighten swivel nuts and you'll be within a thou or two. Lot easier in this case than retramming a swivel mill head.
Need the vice jaws parallel to spindle? Grip a stick of stout silver steel in the chuck, swing the vice and retract the crossslide till the SS touches all across the bottom of the vice gape, approaching carefully and rocking vice to feel for clearance when you think you're close.
I'd like a mill, and may eventually find cash and space for one, but I bet I'll still be using the vertical slide a lot!
Edited By Mick B1 on 02/05/2021 15:38:04
Thanks, I'd thunk that thought too - a lot of the established designs don't seem to need a large milling/jig drilling envelope.
There's also a kind of satisfaction in managing to think your way around limitations ...
Warco sell several milling slides, but it's not obvious to me how you'd fit them to a WM180 - their most substantial one seems to fit WM240 and above.
I have a WM250V and a Myford double-swivel slide that I use a lot. I use the adaptor plate Warco sell to fit the crossslide T-slots, modified to carry the Myford slide. Basically that meant 2 dowel holes and 2 M8 tappings. It's the work of a minute or two to mount or dismount it, including squaring up using the face of the chuck jaws against the vice.
Solid carbide endmills of 8 - 10mm diameter are very good, removing metal easily with less sidethrust, and keep their edge for ages.
Oily Rag's right about its limitations - you can flycut a surface maybe 140 x 60 mm - but so far I've been able to do anything the models I've been making have demanded. Plans to buy a milling machine keep getting put back whenever I manage to get round some issue or other.
But I do wonder how you'd fit that to a 180 - the T-slots on the crossslide, and the cross feed that allows you cut slots, flats and steps under power were important in deciding to shell out for the 250V.
Edited By Mick B1 on 01/05/2021 19:48:25
|Thread: Telephone/mobile scams|
What on earth are you implying? India doesn't appear in the top ranks of any list of scam origin countries I've found.
|Thread: ML10 miller|
I ran a very similar Myford Speed 10 for 15 years and used a similar double-swivel vertical slide. The crossslide on these machines is pretty narrow and support for milling is limited. Check the gibs aren't slack. Lock all slides except the one you're feeding for the cut. If you have a leadscrew clutch, disconnect it and close the halfnuts so you can control depth of cut on the leadscrew handwheel, and lock the saddle for each cut.
Cut slow, with sharp tools, and cut light, and you could get a lot of useful service. I still have my Myford vertical slide, but I now use it on a Warco WM250V lathe, which is larger and more substantial.
Well, that's my two-penn'orth...
|Thread: Does size matter|
He might only be turning part of the shaft close to the chuck? Dunno if the crossslide would quite pass under the main barrel of the assembly.
|Thread: Machining titanium.|
I've managed to machine - usually small items - out of titanium using sharp HSS tools.
I think the issue with low thermal conductance is compounded by its mechanical toughness - the chip is difficult to separate from the parent material and doing so requires energy expenditure, manifesting itself as heat generated in both.
Drilling, IME especially with small diameters, can quickly produce temperatures high enough to let down the drill and, if the swarf jams in the 'ole, twist off the end of the drill bit. If that happens it can obviously present a difficult problem in saving the workpiece unless you're very comprehensively equipped. I once did that when trying (foolishly) to drill 1,8mm through a 50 mm long workpiece, and could only save it by finding a way to substitute a M3 x 10 dp tapped hole. Carbide drills might be an answer if you're prepared to splash the cash.
|Thread: Drilled Hole Tolerances|
Today I made a 1/2" BSW screw with a 9/16" square top and a 1/4" crosspin for hand-operation. I centred and drilled the crosshole 6,0 mm, then followed up with a little-used 1/4" Dormer as a Dagenham Reamer.
The cross pin was 1/4"" silver steel, miking up as about .2499/.2500" on a Mitutoyo Vernier mic.
I still had to turn the crosspin down to .2490" in order to bash it into the 'ole with a Thorex 712, and I don't think it'll fall out any time soon.
Edited By Mick B1 on 25/04/2021 16:19:42
I'd guess the pilot points will work well so long as they're held with good concentricity - but if the piloted part runs out, I would think it'll cut oversize and allow the full diameter lip to dig in slightly and flex the drill, with similar results to an asymmetrically ground jobber drill.
The impression I have is that the key bit of the game in drilling is to get the cylindrical land correctly supported in a hole of the correct size, and if the point is in any way suspect, make sure the projecting part of the drill is as short and as stiff as it can be, and feed the initial penetration slowly enough to take out most or all asymmetric flex and spring. You'll be able to see from the swarf if one lip is doing all the cutting, and once full diameter penetrates, you can generally see if there's more clearance around the drill than the cylindrical land can account for.
Check that both lips are the same length - I use a metric steel rule and a jeweller's loupe. I generally find that the Dagenham Reamer method (drill about 1/64 undersize then follow with a lubricated full-size drill at low speed) will produce a good accurate-to-size hole. I get occasional unexplained failures, though, so if I can I do the hole before I put a load of work into the piece.
|Thread: Best way to cut/turn a 75mm Disc from a piece of Aluminium Plate|
Another one for trepanning. Whilst using backtaper similar to a parting tool, and greater side clearance on the outer flank as above, it's also generally beneficial to grind a slight curve on the leading face, so as to direct the swarf inwards towards the middle of the cut and minimise risk of jamming. This also promoted rippling through rather than sudden and complete breakthrough, giving better opportunity to stop the cut and separate the trepanned piece by tapping.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
I finished 8 square-based pins for the railway. Nobody I spoke to seems to know what they're for, but there's another S160 as well as an 8F in restoration. Dunno about tolerances so I kept the shaft diameter at 0.6215" +/- about half-a-thou as per the original I was copying. I found the only 9/16" BSW die in the workshop, to save screwcutting the thread - had to rotate with a rod stuck in a chuck-key hole to cut it. Material was alleged to be EN8 - ancient, gritty and dirty, very hard to get a decent finish until I was well in from the surface, but distinctly better near the centre of the 2" diameter round bar I had to start from. Obviously something like 80 or 90 percent of the stuff ended up as swarf - filled most of a bin. Square base was 1.177" on the original, so I copied that.
The original's tilted because of the big cutting-off pip on its base.
A few days ago, I finished a plywood flapping Alicorn (unicorn with wings) for a granddaughter's ninth birthday. With a lump of brass on the bottom cord, it flaps several times at one pull.
She's decorated it nicely since.
Edited By Mick B1 on 23/04/2021 13:37:03
|Thread: Buying a used car|
I generally buy older, low-mileage (typically < 35k) cars of well-designed common models that all garages know how to fix, where the service and MoT histories are straightforward, and the state of the tyres and visible underbonnet fasteners are indicative of an uneventful life. Anything that doesn't fit is justification to walk away - there are always others to choose from.
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