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Member postings for Mick B1

Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: press fit sizes
12/11/2018 21:14:24

Can you duck the issue with a tapped side hole and a grubscrew?

Thread: Do you clean up your rough end
12/11/2018 17:44:59
Not so much to avoid risk of cuts - don't think I've ever cut myself that way - but to ensure a clean, true grip in the chuck, I deburr and usually chamfer the back end too.
Thread: Cutting a keyway without a broach
09/11/2018 13:08:40

+another 1 for Andrew's method.

I was actually taught to do it this way at the Government Training Centre where I learned the lathe in '75, and it was one of the exercises. Broaching was for batches of tens to hundreds.

I've used a similar technique to shape out square through-holes in the lathe from round - at some cost in blistered palms!

Thread: Solution found to the World's biggest problem . . .
08/11/2018 22:28:35
Posted by Mike Poole on 08/11/2018 22:12:03:

The quest to manufacture as cheaply as possible has removed the maintainability and repairability of just about everything and the pace of change has rendered yesterday’s products obsolete.



Exactly, and the knowledge that any current tech level - and the infrastructure to support it - is temporary, as well as the need to keep factories working, only encourages the design and manufacture of limited-life products often unsuitable for repair/refurb.

I sometimes think that society has to make an actual decision to suspend some aspects of technical change, or it will continue to run out of control with results that in the end can only be catastrophic.

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
07/11/2018 19:16:04

Walked past the 8F under rebuild in the shed yesterday, and saw this staring out at me:-


... and I'd thought Hallowe'en was over... surprise

Thread: what Christmas present
07/11/2018 19:09:45
Posted by XD 351 on 06/11/2018 01:30:52:
Posted by Mark Rand on 05/11/2018 22:50:52:

£500 worth of floor space.

Should buy you enough space to stand a drill bit on its end 😁

Yes, but what size ? ! ? laugh

05/11/2018 15:42:46
Posted by pgk pgk on 05/11/2018 15:38:54:

Facetious: a shed pixie to tidy up

Serious: 3rd axis dro and power feed for mill


I'll say. Mine never does that - it only hides stuff in plain sight, protected by a special spell so that I don't see it even if I can...

I thought they were all like that?


Thread: Imminent rabbit invasion.
04/11/2018 20:00:33

Bet you'd forgotten that the 22nd Panzer Division was crippled at Stalingrad because mice had chewed the insulation on their tanks' wiring looms... devil

So don't laff ...laugh

Thread: What an earth are they called......
01/11/2018 14:36:34

Try here:-


Ah, no - didn't see any in 10mm. spring diameter. My missus has a Soari loom with adjustable-height legs that use these, but they're about 25mm/1in diameter.

Edited By Mick B1 on 01/11/2018 14:39:29

Thread: Dial Gauge Advice
01/11/2018 08:52:59
Posted by Brian Whelan on 01/11/2018 08:21:46:

Thanks for all the comments and advice. Didn't realise there would be so many variable opinions on this.


Many thanks

Model Engineering itself is an idiosyncratic hobby.

You can expect big differences in the way its hobbyists have learned to resolve the problems they come across.

For example, I use my plunger and finger clocks about equally, but I mount them on a bit of flat bar in the toolpost, or in the lathe or drill chucks.

I only wish I had a magnetic base about once a decade... laugh

Thread: Workholding on the faceplate
31/10/2018 22:14:56

If you have a bench drill, why not drill the 1/2" or 13mm hole with that, then set it on the faceplate (taking into account the safety measures others have proposed) and bore it to finished size as 150 - 200 instead of 300?

If you're a model engineer, remember you ain't doin' this for pay.

Edited By Mick B1 on 31/10/2018 22:15:27

Thread: Dial Gauge Advice
31/10/2018 14:35:03
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 31/10/2018 14:18:24:
Posted by not done it yet on 31/10/2018 13:21:51:

I would make a guess, and say that many of those who use the pivot type, almost universally, already use digital read outs with their mills.

Yes and no; I mostly use the pivot type and I do have a DRO on the mill, albeit only one of my three mills. I'm not sure what conclusion you can draw from that?

It's somewhat difficult to use the plunger type when indicating on the inside of a hole. teeth 2


True, but Baty at least make, or used to, a bellcrank-type finger-lever that clamps onto the plunger sleeve and allows the gauge to work in that situation. Still a bit of a faff compared to a finger-type gauge, though.

31/10/2018 14:03:51
Posted by Emgee on 31/10/2018 10:23:53:

Hi Brian

One advantage of the lever type indicator is it can also be used in a bore or groove to aid set-up.

Usually though the range of movement is much less than other types, a case of horses for courses.


+1 for this.

I don't think the dichotomy of plunger-type being a Dial Gauge and finger-type being a DTI is definitive. Both names have been applicable to either all the time I've been in engineering.

Finger-type can reach and give readings in places the plunger-type can't, unless it's fitted with extra accessories. The finger will usually operate over a wide range of angles, accessed by overriding click-stops defined by a spring detent, but it's nearly always fiddly to set, while the plunger-type is usually more straightforward where it can be used.

I've got both. My plunger was given me 30 years ago by the Chief Inspector of the firm that made it, and it operates exceptionally smoothly even now, but my finger-type was a recovered scrapper due to the direction-shift lever being broken; fixed with a bit of paper-clip.

Edited By Mick B1 on 31/10/2018 14:05:57

Thread: Boxford Model A stopping on slow speeds...?
31/10/2018 10:04:01
Posted by Ady1 on 24/10/2018 10:06:50:

If you're a total newbie and working on your own then drive slip is actually a good thing

It's miles safer plus it forces you to acquire the skills of cutting successfully on low power

Once you can do good cuts on low power you can ramp things up bigtime later on


I cursed my drive slip in the beginning but it really helped me as my ability improved, took about 12 months

to get the basics, working a few hours every couple of days

You will never get the same skills on a big powerful machine because they drive the cut right through every error you make and you never notice any minor but relevant issues

Edited By Ady1 on 24/10/2018 10:12:00

'Ang on a minute! It's not just newbies that get saved by spindles stalling under power!

I've been machining since the mid '70s, and I've still been saved more times than I can readily count in the last few years by my Warco stalling when asked to do something needing too much force.

Part of that is because I don't have a mill so I end up doing ops on the lathe that - shall we say - rather push the envelope of its capabilities... laugh

Thread: Taper turning
29/10/2018 22:13:13
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 29/10/2018 21:48:52:

No scale is going to be good enough if the taper you're cutting has to fit into any other taper. For that, you need a sine bar or an indicator and some trig. Or a lot of trial and error.

Yes, I found that out in the 1970s - but a decent scale could get you close enough to cut out a lot of the faffing about.

29/10/2018 20:30:36
Posted by Tony Pratt 1 on 29/10/2018 18:55:11:

Different component lengths , assuming turning between centres will require a different tail stock offset for a given angle.


That's true, but an accurate vernier scale could provide a capability to set the offset either from calculation or records of previous operations.

My Warco WM250V has a straightforward scale with no vernier. So far as I can see, it's totally NBG though - it's well off the marked centre when head- and tailstock centres are accurately point-to-point.

After a few very time-consuming and fiddly experiences on a number of lathes getting the tailstock back to centre, I generally avoid the offset centres method if I can.

Thread: Hexagons
27/10/2018 19:13:39

I used a 60 degree wedge, with the flat side of the flange against the fixed vice jaw, when I did the hex on these castellated flange nuts. The 60 deg set square from a kids' geometry set would probably have done as well.


Thread: Expanding Mandrel
27/10/2018 10:01:38

If you've only a few workpieces to do on it, alli's probably the easiest and cheapest. It's also relatively sticky, so generally provides good friction to drive the work. Brass is also easy to machine but is dearer and generally has a slicker surface, so it may need more tightening to give a good drive.

Steel's probably the one to use if there are a lot of wooden workpieces to do.

Whichever you use, the expansion will be local to the cone, so it will generally work best on short bores - or longer ones with reasonably close limits - or there'll be risk of yaw. If the wall is thin, there can of course be risk of cracking the piece on tightening.

Thread: Drilling Bronze?
26/10/2018 21:33:38

Well, I don't know I'm sure. I've turned, drilled tapped and died the stuff (PB1) without noticing much difference from good BDMS. The tools need to be sharp, a bit of extra top-rake seems to help and the swarf comes off in ductile, helical ribbons, but I've not met any of the grief some seem to be describing. Maybe it's just that the components I've made in it are small? For example the acorn cups in my album pics.

I have seen some very high-copper bronze (or perhaps it is effectively just copper) that does exhibit all the difficulties described - to me it seems pretty much unmachineable. Taps stuck in it almost irretrievably, even with a hole 15 thou over tapping size. But it's the wrong colour for anything I've ever thought of as phosphor bronze.

Edited By Mick B1 on 26/10/2018 21:34:49

Thread: wood turning
24/10/2018 17:49:12
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 24/10/2018 16:58:05:
Posted by Mick B1 on 24/10/2018 13:32:07:
But sticking a caliper across it a few ways will expose its out-of-roundness pretty mercilessly... surprise

Don't worry, Saturn is out of round itself by a ratio of about 9:1


...but not in the plane mine is... blushlaugh

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