Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Schraeder valve threads|
Yep, that works fine to connect tyre inflators to run my stationary engines.
|Thread: The Repair Shop is getting to me...|
double post - to be deleted if poss.
Edited By Mick B1 on 11/01/2021 14:51:19
No, but we're entitled to comment on it if we don't like its overplay of emotion and underplay of technical detail.
Indeed. That's what's begun to happen. I used to watch it quite often, but now I only do if I know something that might interest me is coming up, and only then in the faint hope that I might get a clue as to how to do something I can't do at present. I'm not sure if that's happened yet, but one lives in hope...
Yes, way too much blubbing and not enough machining...
|Thread: A finished project - at last!|
Outstanding work. Leaves me distressed with the quality of my own work... !
|Thread: Bar size and dies|
That's about what I do if I'm turning from a larger diameter prior to threading. If I'm starting from 10mm stock it'll usually be a gnat's undersize at about 9,95 anyway if it's drawn bar.
If I'm using a hand diestock, I'll push it against the work with the front face of the tailstock quill or the face of the drill chuck jaws if it's small; then rotate the main lathe chuck by hand, advancing the tailstock until the die's properly engaged. A bit of Rocol or suchlike thickish lubricant will usually help quite a lot.
|Thread: Gloves and machine tools - my stupidity.|
I can very much take the OP's point.
I've always found gloves safer when handling bulky swarf or heavy, sharp-edged metal parts, but generally not rotating machinery.
Back in the 70s as an operator I gave myself a bad cut in the web of one thumb fettling the rolled thread on artic trailer jacking screws just off the copy lathe, and wore heavy gloves for that particular job from then on.
I can't really see that there's any simple rule - you have to exercise imagination to anticipate the risks, and adjust your behaviour and PPE to suit.
|Thread: Milling on a mini lathe|
Well, fair comment, but assuming a reasonable quality of vertical slide, the main difference would be reduction of effective envelope - depending on vertical and crossslide range of movement - plus judicious depth of cut. The Myford Speed 10 on which I did a Stuart Beam engine and a PM Research No.7 twin was scarcely bigger than some mini-lathes.
I think 2/10 is a stingy score for a decent vertical swivel slide on a larger hobby lathe like the Warco WM250V I have.
I've been able to do everything I've needed to so far and its roughly 4" x 3" milling envelope has been enough to encompass the milling and precision drilling for models. Circumventing its limitations also encourages ingenuity, which is what engineering is supposed to be about.
I hope to find funds and space for a mill at some point - I worked a Bridgeport and a Varnamo for pay for much of the late '70s - but I'd give the vertical slide a fair 5/10.
|Thread: Christmas Disasters!|
One of the grandkids' nursery teachers has tested positive. Christmas dinner was to be at son-and-DIL's house 4 miles from us. Now it'll be gift-exchange with masks and faceshields in the morning, then they deliver us dinner when it's done. We're debating whether to get tested ourselves.
Unsatisfactory and untidy, but we know of others potentially facing far worse.
|Thread: engineering equipment/further reading|
I've always liked Chapman's 'Workshop Technology' - quite an old book now, but it deals with the basic techniques at whatever level you feel like going to.
|Thread: Parting-off Tools for Small Lathe|
My own view is that parting under power is a bit of circus trick. You can get excellent feel for how fast you can advance the tool doing it by hand, and there are often conditions where it may be practical to vary the feed rate as you plunge in - especially going extra slow as you near the cutoff point in order to minimise the pip or ring. I can't see that you'd reliably save time with power feed in most situations outside a repetition shop.
Well, your photo seems to show a retaining cleat or suchlike at the rear end, stopping it from rising, but I can only see a small clamp at the front of the holder on James' link...
Oh Gor blimey, I never realised RDG sold anything like your 'tiny' one, with only that ickle clamp to stop it nosediving. The one I've used for ages, and have found adequate for most purposes in a lathe that would accommodate it, looks pretty much identical to your 'Chronos Parting Tool' - though I reckon I bought it from RDG.
I've never bothered with making RTPs, though I'd use 'em if I found 'em when I was working as a turner - but then I'm always reluctant to embark on tooling projects unless I have to.
|Thread: Polishing Delrin|
I've found I could get an attractive shiny finish machining with a sharp tool and a very fine feed, even if only taking a few tenths depth of cut.
Edited By Mick B1 on 15/12/2020 21:38:07
|Thread: Parting-off Tools for Small Lathe|
+1 for this. I've been using a 5/16" RDG blade holder tool for decades. The only time I had a persistent problem I found I'd inadvertently - maybe ignorantly - bought some parallel-flanked blades off the Bay. The top-to-bottom tapered ones generally work well.
|Thread: Pea shooters illegal|
Ah. When I was at school we found pearl barley - when you could get it - was ballistically superior to rice.
I foresee a qualifying kinetic energy clause akin to that for airguns. Some long blowpipes can reach 400 ft./sec with a hard clay ball - definitely capable of causing injury.
|Thread: Christmas Cracker Jokes .. and similar|
But while his lass was lookin' out, what was his lad up to?
|Thread: Clearing spark plug thread|
Stick the new long reach plug in the lathe and turn away the thread that would foul the fouling. If the short reach plug had enough thread to avoid blowing out, so would the longreach with a shortened thread.
Ah, you sorted it already...
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