Here is a list of all the postings Mick B1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Spiral Flute Tap?|
Spiral point taps push the swarf ahead to drive it out the other end of through holes, whilst spiral flute taps pull it out of blind holes.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
But I ain't tellin' yer how many hours it took ...
Yet another racing car, ultimately for the grandkids. Generic sort of 1920s shape, OAL approx. 78mm., wheel track at Brio gauge.
Brass/Delrin/PB102/Titanium - the Ti hubcaps were torch-blued in the lathe before parting off.
All machining was in the WM250V, with vertical slide for milling and drilling.
|Thread: Warco lathe mill attachment|
I've had a Warco WM250V for over 4 years.
For milling, I use a Myford double-swivel vertical slide that I retained from the Speed 10 I had previously. I want to buy a mill and will probably do so eventually, but my plans for this keep getting put back because I'm always finding that I actually can do what's required in the vertical slide. In that situation, the carriage handwheel becomes analogous to the knee in a vertical mill, and although the graduations are 0,25mm or approx 10 thou, you can still be accurate enough to a couple of thou if you use care.
It's very easy to set the slide square to the spindle, by locating the top face of the vice against two chuck jaws before tightening the baseplate down to the crossslide t-slots. I had to modify the Warco adaptor plate to suit the Myford vertical slide, but that wasn't difficult.
I've always questioned the rigidity of column milling attachments. I know my arrangement doesn't permit of greedy cuts in strong materials, but I think it may be better than a column attachment - and it's certainly cheaper.
In the pic, I'm boring a radius in a reinforcing segment for a ring gear. It's a dodgy-looking operation but it worked so long as I kept each cut down to 25 thou or so:-
|Thread: Seeking advice on suitable lathe|
I've made finger rings for friends and family from ironwoods and titanium on a Myford Speed 10, and more recently on my Warco WM250V.
They were plain rings, and I found it easiest to turn, drill and bore from barstock and part off, sometimes mounting the ring on an expanding spigot made from a bit of scrap brass to clean up the part off side where necessary.
I think almost any lathe from mini-lathe size and up would make your 90 minute time criterion very easily (with time for a cuppa and a sandwich), and so long as the hole in the chuck will take your stock size you probably don't need a big spindle bore unless you're doing much bigger quantities than your projected 10 per week.
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
Just taken another look at some vids and photos and there is a small groove down to root diameter or thereabouts where the Welin screw steps up. It'd just about pass a shallow cutting tool insert. You'd have to stop the rotation accurately to a few mm to back it out.
Still egad - and maybe a gor blimey...
Looking more carefully at the breech mech GA in the manual, I think there are only 2 diameters, but it looks as if the smaller steps straight out to the larger and there ain't no runout groove in between. Egad.
No obvious way to do it apart from segments, and raises the question (for me at any rate) of how it was done for real - because I'd've thought segmentation would sacrifice much of the locking strength.
Still, I reckon Mal's free to take whatever liberties he needs to.
Added to which - from looking at the US version of the 8" Howitzer manual - the interrupted thread has at least 2, possibly 3 sectored diameters. The internal interruptions would probably be best done with a slotter or small shaper - failing that maybe by careful filing or saddle-broaching in the lathe. But AFAICS the biggest puzzle is how to cut the larger thread segments, as you can't screwcut a full rev on the lathe without colliding with the smaller ones. Watchmaker-grade helical milling? Make threaded inserts for the larger arcs and silver solder in?
Mind you, you've done such difficult stuff already that maybe you'll just breeze it...
|Thread: Screaming brass|
Have you tried reducing tool protrusion or increasing its thickness or stiffness to reduce the risk or resonant micro-deflections causing the squeal?
I've certainly heard brass squeal but if I do it's because summat ain't right, and I'll fix it before carrying on. IME rake angle within normal limits for general use doesn't make a lot of difference, although a zero rake platform on twist drill lips cut the risk of snatch on breakthrough. I can't readily think of a case where it hasn't resolved to a rigidity issue and/or a blunt/rubbing tool edge.
|Thread: South Cheshire Model Engineering Society Annual Gala|
What scale will they be? Best bring us own sarnies then ?...
Sorry, I just had to.
|Thread: Help choosing a Chinese lathe please|
If you expect to do milling in the lathe, I've found a vertical slide to be effective, and think it unlikely any of the bolt-on column milling heads offer sufficient rigidity.
+1 for Arc Euro.
I went to Leicester to pick mine up from them. They tested it for basic function in front of me to ensure it was OK and Ketan (I think t'was he) spent 10 or 15 minutes answering questions and talking to me about it - and it was only a C0 baby lathe for a titchy space in some temporary accommodation.
|Thread: Dumb question from a none driver|
I'd think you just need a piece of paper with some writing on it from the previous owner that says he sold it to you that'll stand up in court (such as a signed receipt detailing the goods), and be prepared to affirm that it's yours and you didn't gift it to your son.
You could probably get a solicitor to draw something up for you, but it'd cost you and wouldn't strictly be necessary.
My parents gave their piano to my missus whilst they were still alive, but we didn't have room to keep it where we lived then, so they had something drawn up to say it was already hers so that it wouldn't be taxed as part of their estate on probate. In the event, I don't think we ever had to show it anybody.
Edited By Mick B1 on 31/08/2019 08:42:01
|Thread: bronze or brass|
It depends on the copper content.
Gunmetal, aluminium and manganese bronzes look a lot like brass.
Phosphor bronze like PB102 has a more coppery tinge to it, but is still yellower than pure copper.
However, AFAIK all brasses look roughly alike in bare metal, so if it doesn't look like brass I'd think it probably isn't.
|Thread: Just for fun what’s this stuck in my tyre?|
|Thread: 13 Practical Machining Projects|
Thanks, Michael - generally I'm mean about spending time on tooling projects when I'd rather be making bits for the railway or toys for the grandkids or gadgets for friends and family; but the hole centres gauge certainly looks useful enough to justify the work.
|Thread: Any one recommend a supplier of 1/4 inch lathe blanks|
Just as well they're way beyond calling distance for me. I got away with 3 HSS tool blanks and a 6,8mm drill for a tenner including postage, bought online.
I've just purchased from Tracy Tools where they sell for a nominal quid each, plus postage, and they arrive within about 36 hours.
I haven't used 'em yet, but AFAIK Tracy are a very well-regarded supplier and I'd expect them to be of good quality.
|Thread: Garmin sat nav|
When satnavs first appeared, I decided I wouldn't buy one until they became unremarkably reliable.
I worked for a software house with a lot of salesmen, and thought that when they'd stopped telling jokes about where their satnav thought they were for about 6 months, that point would've been reached. So I bought a low-end TomTom in about 2010.
I think I must've jumped the gun.
It's good enough for long motorway trips with destinations not far off major routes, but it shows a penchant for trying to snip off tiny bits of miles by sending us down labyrinths of small 'hard work' roads, and I haven't yet figured out how to defeat that. Must take a look and see if there's some setting somewhere...
|Thread: Tracy Tools|
+1 again here.
4 small HSS items ordered Sunday evening, total value a tenner including carriage and VAT, delivered Tuesday morning. Even in some dreamworld where there was a local village shop selling such stuff, it could scarcely've done as well. Well done Tracy Tools.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.