Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help with a boxford c|
The metal pin link belts not only work great but run smoothly and last a long time. The pins never touch the pulley so they shouldn't be an issue except aesthetically.
Removing the spindle because you don't like the idea of them is folly, as it can open up a whole new can of worms. It's common for the spindle bearings to be a very tight fit on the spindle so getting them back into adjustment can be very difficult.
Also be aware that whilst some spindles run on oil, many run in grease. Don't automatically assume that grease has been improperly used. Consult the manual for the machine before taking drastic action.
|Thread: Oil Level Sight Glass|
Most of them just press in and out - the rubber housing does the sealing. I pressed the one out of a Bantam headstock using a socket and pry bar. The socket was a close fit to the OD of the sight glass and I pressed it from inside outwards with no harm done. After cleaning it out and getting rid of the oil staining from the white painted/enamel backing I fitted it back in and it sealed no problem. I believe I used a thin smear of RTV around it just to be sure.
|Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft|
Our local scrap yard did, dunno if he still does. It's quite legitimate if they follow certain rules although it's largely redundant now since they nearly all use the 'card loading' system where they pay the money onto a pre-paid cash card and it's then available for instant withdrawal from the ATM.
|Thread: Is this chuck mounted on a 5C collet?|
It's not unusual. I have 3-jaw and 4-jaw chucks on 3c collets (or rather, arbors).
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 11/10/2019 00:19:58
|Thread: Bright EN24T steel vs Black EN24T for cutting gears|
My small hobber cuts conventionally, no facility for climbing.
|Thread: Grinding wheel 'washers'|
I think you are Bill. All of the wheels I have in my workshop have simple paper blotters. Not much give in them at all.
|Thread: At last - no more chattering when parting off!|
That's nearly as bad as that idiot Steve Jordan's idea of lapping lathe slides by hand - and then having to put two locking screws on his compound when he's realised that he's ruined it, and called that an 'upgrade' too.
|Thread: Any geologists out there?|
It's an early bullet proof vest left over from the dino-wars. The fact that it's so full of holes and that there are no dinosaurs left are evidence that the early vests weren't very effective....
|Thread: Closet Machinist|
The Bantam is a fine machine, yours seems to be a 1600 which will have come with 2 speed 3 phase motor. If you have no 3 phase supply into your workshop that might be a minor stumbling block but not difficult to overcome.
I had a Bantam and I found that the two-pedestal style of support made it possible to put significant twist in the lathe bed just from having it stand on slightly uneven floor. When you have cleaned it up and decided where you will stand it, be sure to research how to 'level the bed' so you can fix it down nice and straight.
|Thread: Good practice for lathe circuit design|
I see no good reason for needing an isolator switch where there's a plug and a NVR switch. The NVR switch will turn the machine off, and not allow it to turn on automatically should there be a supply interruption. The plug is the isolator.
|Thread: What motor pulley size for ML1 Lathe?|
Yes you can. That was standard fitment on the South Bend 9 and 10 inch machines.
The countershafts used in the underdrive models followed the design of that for the 9-inch where a V-belt from the motor passed over a narrow flat pulley on the countershaft, a system confusing to modern eyes but one that works well in practice.
Michael makes a great suggestion. Poly-vee belts run very well on flat pulleys and you need a surprisingly small one to get the same traction as a larger flat belt. Some south bend lathes even run a vee belt on the flat pulley as standard.
|Thread: Leadscrew material ?|
I like EN8DN for screws. it's free-machining EN8.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 02/10/2019 10:24:15
|Thread: Turning between centres on Super 7|
If the centre was sprung then the part could be ejected under cutting load. The driving teeth are the sprung parts.
C.J. - if you're worried about the length of the driving pin, make a extended driving pin with a fat base and just turn the end that engages the slot in the dog smaller.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 01/10/2019 12:09:44
|Thread: Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917|
I was just relaxing here watching an episode of War Factories on the Yesterday channel (S1 E6 if anyone is interested) and about 20 mins in there's a momentary footage of a guy in a French factory who appeared to be hand finishing the cutout on an internal breech block thread with a large file or something similar..
|Thread: Thread form for Atlas 1 1/2" X 8 lathe spindle.|
1-1/2" 10TPI on an Atlas is bound to be UNS. Can't see any USA lathe manufacturer specifying a Whitworth thread back in the 1930's/40's.
|Thread: Brown & Sharpe 2L surface grinder - drive gear teeth pitch?|
The pressure angle doesn't matter one jot if you're replacing the rack and the gear.
If the rack is only broken in the one spot and the budget was tight I would cut that rack right at the broken part then grind the two ends so that they ended right in the bottom of the tooth valley, then flip two two halves round so they meet in the middle. Pin and bolt the two bits in place and buy or make a new gear. if the travel is lumpy over the join then shim or grind it to suit.
I'd offer to cut the gear for you but I can't do 10DP on my hobber.
|Thread: Surface plates|
All of the people who have been guests at my workshop to learn a bit about scraping have had a revelation when they saw just how little bearing their cross slide actually had on a flat way, and how easy it was to fix. An easily made scraper, some blue and a small surface plate can improve things a huge amount, for just a few hours work.
You can't use length and diagonal measurements for checking the squareness of surface plate corners to the tolerances that surface plates are supposed to be good for. Taping corners would get you at best ten thou, plates are flat are square to ten thousandths (100,000x less). If you're going to use such a crude method you might as well check a bench corner.
If I wanted to check the squareness of the corners I would stand the surface plate on a long edge on top of a larger surface plate and use a DTI on a surface gauge to make comparative measurements against the opposing vertical ends. If those measurements match then both corners are square to the 'bottom' edge. If I didn't have a larger plate to stand the test piece on I would put a box square against one edge and run a surface gauge along the square face and check the measured face for parallelism to the box square. That would let you prove each or any corner individually.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 20/09/2019 11:46:03
You can expect it, or you can inspect it. Only one of those can you trust.
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