Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brush motor repair|
Never mind, you gave it a try and that's what matters.
FWIW I tried to repair a Metabo commutator which metred out just fine electrically but also had the ring of fire arcing problem. It was heavily worn but looked ok. Field coils were fine. I checked and cleaned between the segments very carefully and there was no sign of any bridging but I never did find the reason.
A new rotor cured it.
|Thread: J&S 540 belt keeps coming off|
On my (very old) J&S grinder the motor was also rubber mounted. If those rubbers are perished or gone squidgy then the motor shaft won't be parallel to the spindle shaft and that can cause the belt to wander off the crown.
|Thread: Interpreting these bearing blue patterns|
The lump needs removing for sure. It will be causing a false reading on the entire remainder of the bearing.
The shiny bands are where oil is not remaining between the surfaces so you're not getting proper lubrication. You'll need to scrape those lightly, but imagine that you are scraping the divots in a golf ball - don't join them up.
The dimple in pic 5 is a result of the above - the spindle has picked up the bearing slightly. You'll need to scrape that little island down before you can get a sensible print. It doesn't matter if you crate a divot, just don't have that lump there or leave at atol when you've scraped it.
What blue are you using? Looks like it's got bits in it.
|Thread: Drilling HSS|
I drilled one with a broken carbide end mill. I just ground a small spade end on it and pushed it through in the drill press.
|Thread: Chipmaster vfd|
Those variators should have an adjustment for the cones. Yours might only need adjusting.
|Thread: Smart and Brown Sabel|
Jim, you'll find the felts for the Southbend 9" lathe will fit it. Loads of those available.
Hammer-drive rivets I lift using old feeler gauges to get them unseated at first.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 12/06/2020 06:05:48
|Thread: Keeping Shop clean|
I hear this a lot (usually online). I always refer to my friend's (very busy) engineering/light fabrication shop which is always, always spotless. They cut something on the guillotine - the scrap bits go straight in the bin right at hand. They use the grinder - they sweep up right away. Every punch press has a bin under or next to it. Every single last tool has it's place and its always there.
Once you have it instilled in the workforce as a culture it's easy to maintain because they tidy up automatically and the productivity goes right up because there's no reason to ever have to stop work to clean up or look for a something.
|Thread: New or old style 3 phase motors?|
What size are your motors Andrew? I am looking for something suitable for my grinder, 1/2 to 3/4hp 3 phase and a NOS Brook Crompton would be ideal. If you had one you would sell I'dl abandon the single phase motor currently fitted in favour of a 3 phase motor and fit a VFD.
|Thread: Non standard taps - what are they ?|
Quite regular on motorbikes. Older Czech engines like MZ had them and there are many many Suzuki motorbikes right up to present day use M7 for the engine valve cover bolts.
|Thread: Myford MG9 grinder|
It is very frustrating not being able to find literature for the MG9 grinder, but I'm slowly coming to an understanding.
So, I saw this photo from the web which is a good rear shot of another machine.
Clearly there is no counter-weight on the MG9. The four holes appear to be motor mount holes which means that the original 3 phase motor must have been inside the base casting. Mine has a large frame single phase motor fitted to a shelf in the cabinet. I believe that the two holes cut in the top of the cabinet are not original (and the access panel in the rear on mine is certainly not), and were put in to facilitate the fitting of the single phase motor (the capacitor pokes up through the larger square hole, the belt passes through the smaller).
It''s very neatly done, and a very good quality motor, just not original fitment. I am undecided as to which way I will go with this. I could fit a 3-phase motor back in the original position and use a VFD, or I could persevere with the single-phase one.
Another question I can't answer is whether the original drive used a single vee pulley or a two-step pulley. My spindle has a 2-step pulley fitted, the motor a single-step pulley.
The three holes in the end of my slide also appear very faintly in the pic above. They seem to have been filled and painted over. I can only assume they were retaining a way cover of some sort.
Thanks for the photo Andrew it helps me a lot. The MG9 has a single small sump and it was bothering me that it had such a small capacity and scant room for a pump. Mine also has an outlet in the rear wall mid-height which stuck out about 3" with an elbow on it. Then I saw this flyer which seems to show a separate coolant tank on the floor behind the machine.
I guess the outlet is a gravity drain to the separate suds tank.
|Thread: Hardinge Identification help|
I don't know what makes the difference between a HLV and a KL-1. The lathes site seems to suggest that KL-1 is the UK name for a HLV-H but I have a Feltham HLV-H parts manual and KL-1 isn't mentioned in it.
|Thread: Myford MG9 grinder|
Thank you, I'm sure it will.
I have several immediate jobs for it. I have to make some hardened arbors for my gear hobbing machine. Hobbing demands that you hold the part and the hob very accurately.
Yes for sure. It has some wear but not too much and the long ways are worn the same all over so the geometry should be preserved. I do have to find a long enough dovetail straight edge to borrow though. Also I am going to have to figure out how to support the table for scraping. The profile is too long and thin to stop it from bending under it's own weight. Perhaps I will lay it on top of a large surface plate and let it over-hang 6" either side, or I might just send it for grinding, not sure yet.
That would be nice if you could but no rush. I have a good bit to do before I'm ready to grind anything.
Painted the base casting and covers today. I hate painting and I'm not much good at it so I was satisfied with just a couple of runs
That's not my garden fence by the way - it's a knackered old panel I stood up for something handy to hang the bits off.
Thank you both. No shame in showing pics of a well used machine Andrew - I'd rather see a machine put to good use than a show queen.
By the way I have four unused holes in the rear of my base casting and something missing that should be on the rear of my wheelhead slide. Looking at your album pics I see a counterweight on your machine. I don't have that, I wonder if the MG 9 came without one or if it's missing?
My thanks to Andrew for sending me some lubrication info. He is correct in saying that the machines are actually quite different as regards lubrication and it's clear that the MG12 is a more advanced machine but it at least gives me some pointers.
Anyway, here are some pics for anyone who is interested.:
The seller remove the top from the base for me to load it and that exposed some hidden flaking paint. So right away the cabinet was sanded, primed and painted.
I also gave the main casting a damn good clean with jizer and a jetwash
Whilst that was drying I set to making a tool for adjusting the gibs. Someone had tried to adjust them without a proper way to turn the locknuts and made a mess of the screw slots, This tool will help me to adjust them properly.
A nice snug fit.
Looking forward to getting this machine rebuilt so I can use it. I have a number of jobs that will be so much nicer with a ground finish.
Andrew how are your grinder ways lubricated? Mine has grease nipples which naturally someone has pumped full of grease instead of way oil, hence the advert stating that the motions were a bit stiff.
It would be nice to find a lubrication chart. If not i'll be going for ISO60 way oil and BL10 for the spindle drip oilers.
|Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders|
Ah right, I didn't realise that. I have scraped a 7 bed from end to end (hand-scraped 7 thou of wear out of it) but never used one.
Your next best option would be to pop the headstock off and put the level on there.
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