Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chuck fitting|
Ah, yes my apologies. What can I say it's been a long week...
I would do it and in fact I would probably prefer it. With plain bolts holding the chuck all of the registering will be done by the register. With countersunk head screws holding the chuck the self-centering function of the countersinks might be competing with the register for chuck alignment.
|Thread: Lathe cover|
An ordinary bedsheet makes a good cover and I find duck oil liberally diluted with brake cleaner in a pump pressure pot makes not only a good cleaner but a decent preservative too. I must stress though, I don't have any rust problems within the workshop.
|Thread: Man management|
The ones that have a the stuff you're requiring are working on larger projects where pre-quals are a necessity. They are there because they have that stuff. The day-traders and also-rans are left to Joe public to choose from. The ones in the mid-range sub out to the bigger ones.
If you're talking about retention money on a 500 quid bill no wonder they are getting headaches and the phone goes dead tbh.
|Thread: Lathe gear calculation|
You could use one of the several ready-made calculator options listed on this page:
|Thread: dirty metric fudge|
With 10TPI screws you could make your dials dual-reading. 0.1" pitch is 2.54mm so you could print dial scales with 100 divisions for imperial and 250 for metric then the metric scale would only be off by 0.04mm/turn (1.57 thou). Less than the error in a well worn cross slide screw.
Some Denford lathes do exactly this.
|Thread: Corbetts Little Jim Lathe restoration - newbie needs advice|
Because your cross slide handle moves with te slide that makes it a RH thread. I would get a 7/16" x 10TPI ACME tap and run it straight through that nut then make or buy a new cross slide screw. If you need help making the screw then several people here myself included could do that.
I may be wrong but it looks like the slide is designed to ride on the top flat ways rather than the bottom dovetail ways. If it is then those ways need attention. If it isn't then they need taking down a bit so that the slide isn't riding on a part that it's not supposed to.
|Thread: Lathe gear calculation|
127 does not give a pitch error for metric conversion. 63 does though.
|Thread: Screw cutting advice ml7|
There is nothing to prevent you from stopping the motor, winding the handle along until your lines line up then putting the half-nuts in before re-starting the motor, if you're worried about engaging it in the wrong place. It's slow and it might be hard on the motor starting cap but it would save you from trashing a part or crashing the lathe.
|Thread: Help to identify Lathe|
Drummond M as said but whomever had it in that corner didn't use it there. You need good access to the end gears which are fiddly enough to swap about but stuck against the wall like that would be very frustrating.
Thaks for that Windy I've checked out his feed and it seems that the bike is fundamentally the same apart from new bodywork and front brake calipers. It's quite gratifying that the old girl is still going strong 14 years after I built it in my garden shed. I've seen more than a few 'bought' turbo bikes blow up or melt down over the years but mine just keeps going.
238mph - impressive.
Ah, give Helen (and Andy) my best.
I wish they would have contacted me I would probably have bought it back.
Well done Windy. If you see my old bike at Elvington say hello for me. Haven't heard from them for a long time.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 18/06/2021 21:29:26
|Thread: Pulley size help required.|
Those pulleys are outboard so just buy another belt and hang it on a nail. Swap them over if you're using the slow speed.
|Thread: Myford 254 S|
D1-x camlock chucks may be fitted to many Chinese lathes but they were devised in the 1930's and fitted to many high quality machines long before the Chinese adpoted their use. It's a very secure and popular fitment.
|Thread: Mancave insulation|
Thickness was probably 30 or 40mm but don't let that put you off my own workshop uses the same type of insulation and I get no condensation at all, plus it;s very cool in summer.
This stuff is being used as transport protection boards for some very expensive insulated wall panels. They make a big pile of them then cut them all up and skip them. If there's any left I'll try to get you some. If I can it won't cost me anything so I'll charge you the same.
I'm in Gravesend. I might be able to sort you out with some insulation but I won't know until next week. They have (or at least had) some on site this week that was getting chopped up and thrown away.
Where in Kent are you Rob?
|Thread: Eagle Surface grinder - who here uses one?|
My travel and cross feed aren't nearly that much, about 14 and 6 inches or so.
|Thread: Drummond vs Myford change gears|
Drummond gear teeth are that big because if they were any smaller they'd lose teeth. They come from an era before advances in cast iron metallurgy made it as versatile as it is today.
I'm not saying they couldn't do it for higher-end machines etc but I think that the £5 lathe budget stretched to more iron but not more technology. It's common to see busted teeth on lathes of this era, these days not so much.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.