Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Worn nut ACME 10 TPI Thread by 0.500 in.|
You don't have to move anyhting Howard. Just look at the male thread. The handing isn't affected by which part turns.
Look at the screw. If it was laid flat and the threads were angled like a row of keyboard back-slashes thus \\\\\\\\, it's a right hand thread. If they look like a row of forward-slashes //////// it's a left hand thread.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 07/12/2020 18:33:53
|Thread: Stand in wheel dressing tool|
They work wonderfully don't they. I've made several of those, often end up giving them away. I have a ready supply of broken/thrown segments from work but the little 4" discs are so cheap if you bought one it would last an a lifetime of dressing in the home shop.
|Thread: Is this Gold?|
Isn't a Tam O' Shanter a Scotsman's bobble-topped cap.
Can't see the need for sharpening one of those :D
|Thread: How does this rotary table bolt down?|
I'd knock up a small toe clamp to fix that down. Saves messing about trying to find just the right length bolt and fiddling with a thin nut in the slot.
|Thread: Workshop temperature - cold|
The temperature is pretty stable in my workshop so I have a 2kw infra-red heater on the ceiling that I use for 20 mins to warm it up a bit then my own body heat is usually enough. Whilst I'm waiting for the heater to do it's stuff I might run the twin-motor shop vac around the floor and chip trays which is also a pretty good heater plus it pushes the air about.
|Thread: Myford Lathe Identification|
As people have said it's a Myford ML7. It looks to be a nicely kept example on the cabinet so should attract the higher end of the price range for it's age and type. It's an older model so it's value does depend on the condition and the number of accessories that come with it. There seems to be some items in the cabinet and depending on what they are could add significantly to it's worth.
If you could take better photos, perhaps close the curtains and use flash or supplement the lighting. Get a good photo of what's inside the cabinet or even perhaps spread it about on the mat and take a photo of it all there. That would help you get a decent appraisal and perhaps a good idea on price. Definitely don't use that photo for a sale advert if you hope to attract decent offers - it just doesn't show enough detail to tempt people.
All the best
|Thread: Viceroy 280 VS Inverter|
Your e-stop and safety switches can be wired together in series and used to make the RUN enable connection on the VFD.
The suds pump will almost certainly be happy to run on single phase with just a capacitor on the spare leg.
The tacho is probably single phase already, but only investigation will find that out.
|Thread: What am I?|
You are what you think you are Jon.
Your small-minded colleague sounds like a person with no imagination and precious little charm.
|Thread: Help with lathe speed|
Your Drummond's motor's speed is fixed by the 50Hz frequency of mains electricity. Whilst it is possible, it's not practical to alter the way you can with a 3-phase motor.
Your mini-lathe will have a DC motor which is why you can use a speed controller.
|Thread: How to Adjust Old Breaker|
I didn't know about them being able to detect a lost phase but they will certainly trip the bar if any one of the heaters cooks the strip too much. It might have inadvertently been 'adjusted' during the re-wire. If it worked before it should work again, I would inspect it to see if any of the components got bent slightly from working in the cramped enclosure.
|Thread: Eagle Surface Grinder - weight of parts|
I did say it was a guess - mustn't know my own strength :D
Good to have a figure put against it, as you say it will be handy for future enquiring minds.
|Thread: How to Adjust Old Breaker|
I see conductors for a single phase motor. The original was probably 3 phase and therefore drawing far less current..
You might find that the switch doesn't have the adjustment capacity for the extra current draw. To get around this you could remove the neutral line from the contactor and split the live phase between two of them to share the load and if it still tripped you could share between all three. If you have the room to fit one, you could even fit a modern overload and remove the heating coils altogether to turn the overload switch into just a switch.
|Thread: Whitworth v UNC|
The two threads have different flank angles. 55 degrees vs 60 degrees. They also have different profiles, Whitworth having rounded crests.
|Thread: Chipmaster variator|
It may just need adjusting. If you can adjust the play out and it quietens it down you can fill it with new oil and you should be good for years to come.
Some literature here in post #7:
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 16/11/2020 18:42:37
|Thread: Caterham tacho - possible use to show RPM|
If it says 4 cyl on it then it's probably an electronic one triggered by the coil low tension side or even an inductive pickup. When you buy after-market ones they usually have a selector switch to set the number of cylinders so that it reads true, because different number of cylinders usually means different number of pulses per rpm.
|Thread: Planing machine|
There is (or was) a working planer at the Lillie Road Depot near Earls Court. I was doing some construction-related work there about 4 years ago and I was watching a rastafarian guy planing railway points blades on it just through the open door.
|Thread: Anyone have any idea what these are|
Yes that's right Bill. The outer ring with the holes in it doesn't turn. I countersunk a painted item without marking it but you have to watch out that the swarf doesn't scuff the paint.
Positive stop countersinks. I have a couple, one with multiple cutting bits the other a fixed one for aircraft rivets.
You pull the sliding collar back and turn that collar to adjust the stopping depth.
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