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Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford MG9 grinder
26/05/2020 18:30:44

My thanks to Andrew for sending me some lubrication info. He is correct in saying that the machines are actually quite different as regards lubrication and it's clear that the MG12 is a more advanced machine but it at least gives me some pointers.

Anyway, here are some pics for anyone who is interested.:

Advert pic:

The seller remove the top from the base for me to load it and that exposed some hidden flaking paint. So right away the cabinet was sanded, primed and painted.

Before:

After paint:

I also gave the main casting a damn good clean with jizer and a jetwash

Whilst that was drying I set to making a tool for adjusting the gibs. Someone had tried to adjust them without a proper way to turn the locknuts and made a mess of the screw slots, This tool will help me to adjust them properly.

A nice snug fit.

Looking forward to getting this machine rebuilt so I can use it. I have a number of jobs that will be so much nicer with a ground finish.

25/05/2020 06:13:35
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 24/05/2020 10:58:10:
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 23/05/2020 19:42:38:

Does your manual contain general setup, maintenance and lubrication info?

Some, but as you'd expect from a 1960s manual it's all rather vague. I've also got a sheet from the original Myford company listing oil types and application. My machine has oil reservoirs rather than the sight glasses on the MG9. My internal spindle is greased for life, so there are no lubrication points.

Andrew

Andrew how are your grinder ways lubricated? Mine has grease nipples which naturally someone has pumped full of grease instead of way oil, hence the advert stating that the motions were a bit stiff.

It would be nice to find a lubrication chart. If not i'll be going for ISO60 way oil and BL10 for the spindle drip oilers.

Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders
24/05/2020 21:42:11
Posted by Hopper on 24/05/2020 09:46:57:
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 24/05/2020 09:42:44:

The saddle and tailstock run on different parts of the flat way, the tailstock will never wear the chuck end and the saddle won't appreciably wear the tailstock end, so you can actually put a level on either end quite confidently as it will sit on the un-worn parts both ends unless the wear is particularly heavy or the top surface damaged with dings and burrs.

This doesn't stop the saddle rotating on the worn bits but it does give you a baseline to start your measurements. from.

But the saddle runs on the full width of the top horizontal surface of both ways. So saddle wear is full width. Problem is the front way way takes most of the load and wears more than the rear way. Unless the Super 7 carriage is different from the ML7? (It doesn't appear to be but I dont have one to hand to check.)

I suppose you could measure the actual wear on the bed and shim the level accordingly??? Or build a "sled" that referenced off the relatively unworn underside of the shears where the lift plates run and sit your level on that??? Tricky though.

Edited By Hopper on 24/05/2020 09:57:47

Ah right, I didn't realise that. I have scraped a 7 bed from end to end (hand-scraped 7 thou of wear out of it) but never used one.

Your next best option would be to pop the headstock off and put the level on there.

Thread: Myford MG9 grinder
24/05/2020 11:08:24

Ok, well thank you for taking time to look. I have the machine home now, time to evaluate it and work my way through any jobs. The top is stripped off now which has exposed a lot of flaking paint in the tray beneath. I'll have to paint it which I wasn't expecting, but it will only add to the overall finish.

Mechanically, it appears very good.

Pete.

Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders
24/05/2020 09:42:44

The saddle and tailstock run on different parts of the flat way, the tailstock will never wear the chuck end and the saddle won't appreciably wear the tailstock end, so you can actually put a level on either end quite confidently as it will sit on the un-worn parts both ends unless the wear is particularly heavy or the top surface damaged with dings and burrs.

This doesn't stop the saddle rotating on the worn bits but it does give you a baseline to start your measurements. from.

Thread: Myford MG9 grinder
24/05/2020 05:10:35
Posted by Mark Rand on 23/05/2020 23:57:55:

I wondered who got it. Spent half an hour lookking at the pictures and thinking about it, but sanity (and a lack of space) prevailed. laugh

Yeah I got it.....

...in the ear off the missus when I told her :D

23/05/2020 22:14:18
Posted by Chris Evans 6 on 23/05/2020 22:11:55:

I have used a mate's Myford grinder a few times. I will ask him what model it is and if he has any info for you. May be a delay with the copying if he has info due to the covid 19

Thanks Chris, I appreciate that.

Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders
23/05/2020 22:13:04
Posted by Martin Kyte on 23/05/2020 21:58:04:

Pete

Myfords have thrust screws to abutt the headstock to the rear shear before the 4 hold down bolts are tightened.

Personally I would ditch the collet in the original set up and hold a piece of free machining steel in the four jaw for rigidity and turn a collar test with a very sharp tool taking very little off at a time to set the bed up.

regards Martin

Well, it could be the cause then. I would certainly start with levelling the bed then turning a larger OD part in the chuck and mic it for taper, use those jack screws to pull the rear end round to adjust. Another thing I have noticed on the Myford lathes is that they tend to pull a little attol of metal up off the bed around the threaded holes for the headstock bolts. You really notice it when scraping. I would give those a healthy countersink so make sure none of them hold the headstock up slightly.

Thread: Boxford missing a Nut
23/05/2020 21:33:50

It's a 1/4" BSW round nut with a slight dome top and a slot across it. You need a screwdriver with a slot ground in the middle of the blade to tighten it.

Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders
23/05/2020 21:26:57
Posted by Tony Pratt 1 on 23/05/2020 20:26:30:

I doubt if the head stock is 'out of line' but it could be? I will await developments maybe a twisted bed is causing barreling but wear in the bed is the likely cause, note OP's wear figures

Tony

How is the headstock located on the bed? Is it on the bolts or keyed between the shears? You wouldn't need much of a gap, or much of a bump on one corner of the key to cause a few thou out over a few inches.

23/05/2020 19:57:14
Posted by Mike Donnerstag on 23/05/2020 19:48:35:

Tony Pratt 1: Whenever I've set up the bed in the past (only had the lathe since Jan 2019) I used the collar method, but then I found discrepancies when turning a shaft of a shorter or longer length, hence why I tested the bed by machining the whole length of the shaft today under power at the slowest gearbox speed.

This is a classic symptom of compensating for an out-of line headstock by inducing twist in the bed.

Can you get your hands on a machinist's level to get the bed un-twisted?

23/05/2020 19:55:24
Posted by Mike Donnerstag on 23/05/2020 19:48:35:

Tony Pratt 1: Whenever I've set up the bed in the past (only had the lathe since Jan 2019) I used the collar method, but then I found discrepancies when turning a shaft of a shorter or longer length, hence why I tested the bed by machining the whole length of the shaft today under power at the slowest gearbox speed.

This is a classic symptom of compensating for an out-of line headstock by inducing twist in the bed.

Can you get your hands on a machinist's level to get the bed un-twisted?

Thread: Myford MG9 grinder
23/05/2020 19:42:38

Andrew,

Does your manual contain general setup, maintenance and lubrication info? If it does then at least it'll give me some pointers.

Pete.

Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders
23/05/2020 18:49:46
Posted by Martin Kyte on 23/05/2020 17:36:13:

Are we talking about a shaft or a bore

I'm thinking combunation of spindle bearings not set up correctly plus bed not level.

So acombination of work deflection which get smaller towards the chuck and a taper because you have adusted the bed to compensate for the deflection.

What does everyone else think?

regards Martin

All sorts of weird thing happen when you induce twist. What he has going on is very unusual if a tailstock centre is not being used.

Thread: Myford MG9 grinder
23/05/2020 18:05:20

Does anyone here own one of these little grinders?

I've been lucky to get hold one, collecting it tomorrow. The seller has no literature for it and couldn't find any when he tried. I'm surprised at how little info of any kind there is about for this machine given the abundance of it for the lathes etc.

If anyone has or had one of these and has any literature I'd pay a token fee for a scan of it. Equally any current owners feel free to chip in with any tips for operation etc I'd be happy to hear from them.

I'll post pics of it when I have it home and assembled of course, it's easy to find on the homeworkshop site in the meantime.

Thanks

Pete.

Thread: DRO error
23/05/2020 12:26:22
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 23/05/2020 12:11:56:

Is this a case of more not necessarily being better?

Andrew

I dunno Andrew, it sounds like mine is just like yours except you have to specify 360 for a full-circle. It remembers the setting though so I never change it and like you I've never had to drill an arc of holes.

I suppose it's no harm having that function even if you never use it, when it doesn't complicate 'normal' useage.

23/05/2020 11:55:03

Different DRO's handle it differently too you'll have to experiment (or read the manual)

For instance, mine will give an error if you set the end angle to 0. If you specify end angle as 360 it'll put a full-circle pattern in starting from the start angle (regardless of the value) but if you specify anything below 360 it'll put a part-circle pattern in between the start angle and the end angle. It might seem strange at first but it makes a lot of sense.

Thread: Making new gib strip for cross slide
21/05/2020 22:17:47
Posted by David Davies 8 on 21/05/2020 22:03:59:

Pete

I hadn't considered using the top slide for Infeed but in that circumstance the gib should be nearest the tailstock as you have stated. In that case the Myford would have its gib nearest the chuck.

I wasn't aware that the Boxford had a facility for a cross slide stop. Can you expand on this as I can see it would be useful for screwcutting instead of checking the dial before starting the next pass?

cheers

Dave

Sure Dave. On the front of the cross slide is a tapped hole. You clamp a stop on the front of the dovetail and a bolt passes through it and screws into that hole. You can adjust the bolt depth to set the stop distance.

Here it is posted previously on this site.

Pete.

Thread: The sneering detractors
21/05/2020 18:09:51

I believe that it is your duty to point out bad or dangerous practices, especially on Youtube. Some people believe that content at any cost is the way to go. That's fine for funny cat videos but not so good when the uninitiated watch popular content providers using practices that make sense to them not realising that they are entirely unsuitable.

How you go about it is another matter.

Thread: Making new gib strip for cross slide
21/05/2020 18:04:59
Posted by David Davies 8 on 21/05/2020 07:06:43:

Hopper commented:-

"Cutting forces are borne by the opposite solid dovetail surface."

Yes, but one exception is the Boxford top slide. Heaven knows why they made it that way round. I presume that the Southbend and all its other clones are the same?

Cheers

Dave

You mean why is the Boxford top slide gib away from the operator? That is probably because the cross slide has the facility for a threading stop. You would swing the top slide around so that it can be used for in-feed and the cross-slide threading stop used for rapid retract and re-positioning. With the top slide swung around to either 0 degrees or 30/whatever your preference the gib would now be away from the chuck and the fixed way carrying the bulk of the cutting forces when threading towards the chuck. My South Bend and my Monarch both have threading stops and both are like this.

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