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Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Grinding wheel arbour
22/12/2019 17:51:42

The actual taper is largely inconsequential just make it steep enough so it's not self-locking (which is about 7 degrees IIRC). About 20 degrees will do it. Also the shallower the taper the more care you need to make sure it doesn't seat too shallow or deep on the machine.

What I strongly suggest is that you make a gauge master so that you can replicate the wheel hubs later if needed. Turn some press-fit adapters for the grinder and a master on the same lathe taper setting.

Thread: Drunken Threads
22/12/2019 16:58:32

Chris, put a spacer washer behind the die. To check the screws line up with the divots just go around the OD with a magic marker painting it black, put it in the holder with just the screw tip protruding and turn the die so the screw tip scrapes a line in the black coating. Adjust the spacer to suit.

Thread: Conecutters to produce rough MT1 and MT2 shaped holes?
21/12/2019 15:03:49

I did this a while ago. I took a rusty old MT drill and cut the spiral bit off just leaving the plain shank, then took a 5" grinder with cut-off disc and cut two wedges right down the taper to create a 2-flute cutting tool. I pre-drilled a piece of plywood with a grid of holes then used this tool to ream each hole out to a morse taper. Was easy and quick and worked perfectly.

Thread: A tales of two lathes
20/12/2019 08:53:22

I would have the Kerry before the Denford Viceroy all other things being equal. The Kerry is a better-built machine all round with a stout bed and nice gearbox. Hard to say what a "Viceroy mk1" is as there were quite a few variants from plain-turning to full screwcutting to wood turning and even a wood and metal turning model for schools. I've had a couple of them and they are not without their problems.

Ultimately, it would depend on what attachments came with the machine. You're not going to find steady or follow rests for either. What chucks do they come with? The early Denford had a screw-on chuck similar to Boxfords. Later ones had camlock d1-3. The Kerry probably has L00 taper chucks or possibly a threaded spindle.

Either would be much better than your Sphere, which is a copy of the bendy old Atlas lathe. I'd still go for the Kerry.

Thread: Crompton Motor Wiring Help
19/12/2019 21:51:47

Yes, yellow is a link to the switch.

https://cdn.instructables.com/FBK/BW6B/HF23M68P/FBKBW6BHF23M68P.LARGE.jpg

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 19/12/2019 21:53:40

19/12/2019 21:24:45

The switch and the start winding are in series so when the switch opens the circuit is broken regardless of which way round it's connected.

19/12/2019 20:54:41

My Brook Crompton wiring sticker says swap blue and yellow to reverse. I guess it would have the same effect.

John, putting live and neutral to U2 and U1 will make it run. Doesn't matter which way round. To reverse the direction swap blue and yellow. Basically the copper links are in place of a reversing switch.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 19/12/2019 21:01:11

Thread: Casting with yellow brass
19/12/2019 16:30:31
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 19/12/2019 12:04:31:

Although an exact match of colour and properties is unlikely,.

Dave

Any decent scrap yard would point their zapper at that clock and give you the exact composition in moments. I don't know if this would be helpful but it at least would be cheap.

Thread: Weldon Shank in collet?
17/12/2019 11:24:58

Plain shank with flat is fine I even have dozens of the clarkson threaded cutters that I put in a collet.

Thread: Casting with yellow brass
17/12/2019 08:50:23

Perhaps the foundry has an electroplating process that they use to get the proper yellow colour for clocks?

Thread: Temporary oil conundrum
17/12/2019 00:22:45

Just use the engine oil. You won't wear it out in a day.

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
16/12/2019 23:57:02

Thanks Steve. With your permission I'll add the file to the Thingiverse page.

I'll also install designspark, as it will run on my old 32bit Dell, so thanks again.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 17/12/2019 00:02:28

16/12/2019 09:49:09

I'm afraid not. I found online converters but have no way to test the output file so I'm loathe to just run it through the converter and share it.

Perhaps one of the other members can help? I don't mind adding the STL to the file list if someone tests it first. 'm sure that many other people would prefer that too.

Thread: ML1 Worn Saddle adjustment
14/12/2019 17:10:04

It's easy to machine and it's shiny. It'll do the job but it's a bit too soft. You don't want too soft a material as it'll form a lap with the dirt it collects and will wear shiny in a very short time. tHe shiny surface squuezes out all oil then the brass starts to smear. If you look at a machine that has a brass gib you'll probably see evidence of black and gold streaks in the opposite face.

If you're near North Kent I could give you some solid advice on the condition of your lathe and how to get around your wear issues.

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
14/12/2019 15:38:25

Cool. I hope it goes together well. Once the small gear is fitted it doesn't come off again, and the winding handle is also easier to break than remove.

Please let us know how it assembles!

Thread: ML1 Worn Saddle adjustment
13/12/2019 23:14:05

Hi Chris,

I would use cast iron or steel for a gib strip before brass. Not only is it cheaper but it's better wearing and less 'grabby' when lube is neglected. Brass tends to smear on a sliding surface.

Pete.

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
13/12/2019 21:36:03

Thanks Jeff for the compliment.

I've published the files on Thingiverse for anyone to download.

Balzer Reliever - Thingiverse

Thread: Timesaver lapping compound quandary
12/12/2019 18:52:03
Posted by Zan on 12/12/2019 18:18:22:

It was difficult enough to get all the bores and 45 degree seats concentric in the first place, I think the only way to lap them is how we used to grind car engine valves, ie one pare against the other. This is why I want to use Timesaver, as it’s non- embedding and it wears down to nothing. Separate laps for these components would be very difficult to make and get a fit. But thanks.

Ah, I'm with you. I thought it was just the diameters you were lapping. It makes sense to lap the valve seats together.

12/12/2019 18:09:43

I think I would make OD and ID laps from a softer material and lap those parts separately.

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
12/12/2019 15:44:41

I've saved all the components now and just doing some test prints. Is anyone interested in either the Sketchup file or the .dae for their slicer? If so I can publish them, if I knew where the best place was to do it.

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