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Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Jones and Shipman 540
22/09/2018 21:37:43

If you fit a VFD you could change the pump motor for a single phase one. I did that. I also managed to find the star point and re-wire the windings for delta but it was a bit of task with he old insulation.

Thread: Today's Mystery Object
21/09/2018 17:08:29
Posted by Oldiron on 21/09/2018 16:04:39:

If this is a tool post of any description I cannot see how to tighten it in the Tee or compound slot. The body and the T nut part appear to be machined as one piece. Why would anyone place that broken tap where it is ?


Edited By Oldiron on 21/09/2018 16:05:17

The post is missing it's ring(s). The ring slides over the body with the cutting tool on top. When you clamp the tool with the top screw, it also pulls up on the tee clamping it to the underside of the slot.

Thread: Mounting a new chuck
19/09/2018 22:44:36
Posted by Mark Gould 1 on 19/09/2018 18:52:51:

Option 1 is to see if this backplate and new chuck run true. That solves the hole discussion except for the mounting options (back to front or front to back).

Option 2 is to buy a new backplate and machine it on my machine as a snug fit. Drill and tap holes in backplate. Good concentricity but no way to compensate for chuck run out.

Option 3 is to use the old backplate sans spigot and make the chuck “moveable” to a degree to enable me to compensate for the chuck run out.

Mark you should mount your chuck to the backplate so that there is no runout on the body of the chuck, be that by turning a register on the backplate or by nipping up the bolts and bumping it into place using a dial gauge to check then tightening it up once you're satisfied. The chuck body has considerable mass and any runout will cause an imbalance when run at speed, and the more the imbalace the greater chance it will show up in the finish.

As Mike Poole rightly says, runout is a fact of life for a 3-jaw - the better and newer the chuck the less you'll have but they all wear with use.

19/09/2018 17:56:50
Posted by not done it yet on 19/09/2018 07:31:46:

Question: Are chucks, fitted like yours, supplied by OEMs? I, and likely a lots of time served machinists, look forward to your response.

Yes of course. That's not to say I wouldn't check over any chuck I bought - they all get stripped down but the register does nothing to add to the connection between the backplate and the chuck except ease the process of centering the chuck - all the load is carried by the friction between the faces created by the clamping bolts.

The loads on a lathe chuck are a lot less than people imagine. Two of my lathes have the chuck fitted to the spindle with no bolts at all.

18/09/2018 22:58:38
Posted by not done it yet on 18/09/2018 21:44:55:

I would disagree with the idea of not needing a tight fitting spigott on the back plate. It is that which resists any axial movement under excessive forces. I don’t consider it just as a ‘register’ although it will serve that duty as well, of course.

It's you're right to have your own opinion, but what do you call excessive forces? Three m8 bolts clamping a chuck to a backplate will give a phenomenal clamping force, something that only a heavy crash would overwhelm .

My 8" TOS chuck is fitted to the backplate with no register, has been since I got it new. I've slipped the belt and stalled the 3hp motor but it's never bothered the chuck.

Thread: Elliott 200mm chuck backplate bolt size?
18/09/2018 22:27:16

Strange that they should use M8 in the Ultra and M10 in the Forte.

18/09/2018 21:46:47

David, my 6" chuck has standard pitch M10 threads.

If you're still unsure about yours try a 6mm allen key in those screws already in your chuck then try a 1/4" allen key. If the 6mm fits but the 1/4" doesn't you know they are metric.

Thread: Mounting a new chuck
18/09/2018 21:34:46
Posted by Mark Gould 1 on 15/09/2018 20:55:58:


I recently bought a new P&B 125mm chuck without a backplate. By chance I found a 125mm backplate that fits like a glove. Almost as of it was made for my new chuck, but here's the dilemma: the backplate holes are not tapped. It is mounted to the chuck with 3 bolts that go from the backplate into the back of the chuck. I can mount it this way to the new chuck without a problem.

Now the P&B chuck came with 3 mounting bolts (long ones) that go from the chucks face, through the chuck and screw into what I assume must be tapped holes in the backplate. So that would be going the other way.

Does it matter which method is used? The one disadvantage I can think of is the empty holes on the chuck face but other than that?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.


It doesn't matter but if you use the long bolts that mount from the front you have the advantage of the socket caps which are generally better quality (and stronger) fasteners, plus you plug the holes which prevents the inevitable accumulation of swarf or dirt to be thrown out when you least expect it. If the bolts are long enough you could even put nuts on them but the simplest way would be to fit the plate to the chuck and spot through the holes with a close-sized drill, then drill and tap the spotted marks to accept the capscrews.

Added to that there's no real requirement to have a register on the backplate. The chuck will work perfectly well bolting the flat faces together, the register only saves you the bother of clocking the chuck true before tightening the bolts.

In any case, you should take a thin facing cut on the backplate before fitting your new chuck to it (but AFTER drilling and tapping the mounting holes) just to make sure it runs true on the face.

Thread: Elliott 200mm chuck backplate bolt size?
18/09/2018 18:53:24

I have a 6" Forte chuck I'll check what bolts that uses and it might give you an idea.

Thread: Petrol proof adhesive
09/09/2018 13:51:21

JB Weld (not the quick one) is advertised as 100% resistant to petrol once fully cured.

Thread: Yet another parting tool question...
08/09/2018 22:50:04
Posted by Robin Graham on 01/09/2018 00:16:09:

Thanks for replies. It looks like the answer to my original question about the functional differences between the two specific designs of tool I was asking about is that the blade type (first pic) has the obvious advantage of being able to cut deeper, but the clamp type (same insert, as JasonB pointed out) has perhaps more sideways rigidity. And less overhang from the cross slide centre line.


Edited By Robin Graham on 01/09/2018 00:17:55

Edited By Robin Graham on 01/09/2018 00:19:00

The grooving holder has a positive stop behind the insert to give consistently very accurate depths to the grooves you would cut. The parting holder has no stop, so the seating depth of the insert can be affected by the cutting forces. You might start cutting a groove at the required depth but high cutting forces would cause it to sink back in the seat and then your grooves would be shallow.

Thread: Never Throw Anything Away
05/09/2018 18:14:05

I have a hoarder friend who never disposes of anything. He's not one of these people you see on TV with piles of junk filling every room, he just slowly collects mostly good/great stuff but won't ever let anything go. For example he has a Mk1 Capri he built and tuned when he was in his 30's which hasn't seen daylight in the 15 years that I've known him. It's worth a serious bit of wedge now but he'll never sell it.

I work on a '2 year rule'. If I have something that hasn't been used or utilised in the last 2 years, I get rid of it. Some certain things like tools are exempt but otherwise out it goes to make room for more useful stuff.

Thread: Come on you clever people
05/09/2018 07:20:11
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 04/09/2018 20:24:55:

There's also the amateur version



Or the REALLY amateur version...

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 05/09/2018 07:20:47

Thread: marking / layout blue
02/09/2018 14:47:45
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 01/09/2018 18:08:05:

Came across a tin of Stuarts Micometer blue,while looking for something else,so it,s still around.

Bought it years ago,dont remember when I last used it.

Stuarts is still around but it's not layout blue, as I'm sure has already been pointed out. Layout blue dries out fully so it can be handled, engineer's blue is designed not to fully dry out, though if left on over several weeks can be a bit of a bind to remove.

Thread: Flash Steam Hydroplanes
28/08/2018 07:34:31

Yeah that's my bike. It was only the second bike in the UK to crack 200mph on a totally standard engine. I owned it 12 years, started out bog standard, built two whole turbo systems for it and ended up making over 400hp

When I decided to sell it I waited a whole year for the right person to come along. Couldn't be happier for Andy he's a great guy.

27/08/2018 22:39:57
Posted by Windy on 27/08/2018 15:21:50:
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 24/08/2018 09:51:23:

Hey Windy, I see you're into your landspeed racing. Were you at this week's top-speed Tuesday at Elvington?

I go to most of the Top Speed Events at Elvington it's a social meeting for me meeting new enthusiasts and competitors from my era.

At last 2 day event Pete Williams who is only a few months older than me did 180mph a bit slow as has done over 200mph also building a gas turbine 3 three wheel projectile.

Here is a link to Pete's early sprint bike **LINK**

At last Elvington a road legal bike did 258mph set only on a low boost setting 3 higher settings to play with hope it will be back for record attempts next month maybe the Isle of Man steam bike will be there as well.

Last week's meet my old bike was there and it's now-owner cracked 200mph for the first time. I got a nice text off him when I was at work.

I never went to Elvington myself, but I did quite a few top-speed meetings at Woodbridge.

24/08/2018 09:51:23

Hey Windy, I see you're into your landspeed racing. Were you at this week's top-speed Tuesday at Elvington?

Thread: Setting a Machine Vice Parallel on the Mill
23/08/2018 06:52:19

I have a wide piece of ground flat stock that I put between the knee dovetail and the back of the fixed jaw. I push the vice back snug against the plate,use the X and Y screws to position the table under the vice and tighten the bolts. Few things need better accuracy than that but if they do I use a mag mount and DTI on the front face of the fixed jaw.

Thread: Belt Driven Hacksaws -
22/08/2018 21:55:56

Remove the motor pulley and turn the shaft so the keyway is not pointing towards the big pulley. Place a straight edge across the edges of the big pulley so that it extends up to the motor shaft. Put a small square on the straight edge and check if the motor shaft is truly perpendicular to the straight edge, which will make it parallel to the big pulley axis. If it isn't, loosen the motor and adjust it until it is. If the pulleys are now aligned and parallel, the belt will run true.

Once you have the motor pulley parallel to the big pulley use a marker pen to draw marks on the base along the motor feet. Then if you have to adjust the motor to tension the belt you have a visual reference to keep the shafts aligned, you just eyeball the gap from the line to the motor foot.

Thread: Lathe bearing oiler wicks/felt
16/08/2018 21:13:31

I fitted new felt wicks into a 100yr old Cataract lathe yesterday. I used 5mm round F1 felt. I see that there's a guy selling 1/4" diameter for £15 a metre. If you need it flat just flatten it out in some smooth-jawed grips/pliers. Mine needed to be flat one end and round the other where it dipped into the reservoir.

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