Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Kerry 1124 lathe - some healing required|
Andrew, the photos in your album show a lathe with a full screwcutting gearbox. Is that your one?
The lever being 3-position rather than 2-position is probably due to the machine being metric rather than imperial, I would guess.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 01/12/2019 12:31:36
Every lathe I have seen a 3-position lever on, the lever has been for 1x 2x 4x feed/lead rates, so you would set gears for 1mm, 2mm, 4mm pitch (according to the lever position), or otherwise 0.75, 1.5, 3mm pitch, if you follow me.
You'll need the appropriate gears for the end cluster. Do you have those? If so, providing the stud gear, gearbox input gear tooth counts plus what other gears you have would help towards building up a table of change-gears for various threads.
EDIT: does your machine perhaps resemble anything on this page?
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 01/12/2019 01:17:08
|Thread: Tapping a nylon hole.|
You don't need a super-hard tap to cut a thread in nylon. Turn a slightly over-sized thread in something like EN8 then mill/grind some flutes in it and use that to chase your thread slightly bigger.
|Thread: Kerry 1124 lathe - some healing required|
My Monarch lathe is diameter-reading and I find it much better. Only problem is they also made the compound diameter-reading so you have to remember to double the scale for any required in-feed.
I've always advocated making 10tpi single-start screws as replacement for the 2-start ones in Bantams/Chipmaster lathes because the screws are easier to make and you can use the same dials to become diameter-reading ones.
Actually, his 2mm (if it's 200 graduation) dial is perfect for a 10tpi cross-slide screw. It'll just be diameter-reading instead of radius.
Is it your wish to have a metric screw or an imperial dial? What are main leadscrew and compound leadscrew metric or imperial?
Could be that someone has swapped all the screws and that's why the threading plate is missing, it would no longer be relevant.
|Thread: Extending an M16 thread.|
You'll have to turn the 18mm dia down to 16mm anyway, so why not attempt it in a lathe?
With care, it's not usually that hard to pick up on a 60 degree thread. Set the compound over to 30 degrees. Blue up the threads and feed the cross slide in until you just start scraping the blue off the trailing flank. Now make more passes feeding in the compound until you start scraping the blue off the leading flank. You've now picked up the thread perfectly. Set your dials to zero, back off and start cutting the new threads. It's better to use the 'straight in' method for this to keep the load on each side of the tool equal, but it shouldn't really matter.
|Thread: LPG heater- fumes|
A headache probably means that the LPG is not all getting burned. Years ago we had a machine fitted with LPG (propane) conversion designed for indoor use (large spaces). The fuelling was not properly set up initially and it laid three of us low with the worst headaches imaginable after a couple of hours.
I had a butane heater in my 5m x 4m workshop for a long time with no ill-effects. It was an older type but well built. Now I use ceiling-mounted infra-red heaters.
|Thread: It's Myford Jim, but not as we know it!|
A couple of the people I made 33/34 gears for commented on this also.
|Thread: new gear for Fortis lathe|
Vic are you sure that it's 93 teeth and not 98? A stamped 8 often looks like a 3.
A 98 tooth 16DP gear would be 6.25" diameter exactly.
|Thread: HSS tool sharpening|
Most problems I see people having with grinding lathe tools is down to using a blunt wheel. The first time you use a blunt wheel after it has just been dressed will really open your eyes to the need for it.
|Thread: Remote speed control pendant|
Which VFD did you buy Peter? Each manufacturer has it's own method of connecting the controls so knowing that will help but basically there are two common methods of wiring the run command.
2-wire uses maintained contacts which simply means you turn the motor on and off with a switch, just like a light.
3-wire uses momentary contacts for the run command. Which is a little more complicated but more conventional in terms of how lathes were started with their original contactors using the red and green buttons.
I'm currently using the 3-wire method to build a control box for my South Bend lathe using a Yaskawa drive.
|Thread: Holding screw-end end-mills/slot-drills|
I put them in my R8 collets. Never had one so much as move.
|Thread: Just bought an ML7, what should i do first?|
I take it you are disengaging the tumbler and locking the half-nuts? That's very poor practice. Use the saddle lock if you need to keep it from creeping during facing cuts, though you should be able to face without the saddle moving.
|Thread: Screwcutting on the lathe|
It's exceedingly common being the thread for spark plugs, glow plugs and lambda sensors on a wide range of vehicles.
|Thread: Rod Stewart's Model Railway|
He must have been turning a thread....
|Thread: 1.75". Chuck backplate.|
If you want to make a Raglan backplate/faceplate by re-purposing one from another lathe you'll need to find on with a sufficiently wide boss yet an existing thread of 1.5" or less to allow enough material to cut the 6tpi square thread.
A Boxford one would suffice, if the rear boss is wide enough to accommodate the Raglan thread.
|Thread: What would you call this tool|
That's a powered work head for a tool and cutter grinder. It'll fetch good money if you put it up for sale.
|Thread: Suitable metal / enclosure for project|
If I can suggest - the motor on my 180mm diamond lapping machine is tiny, about 60mm cubed, and that uses disk far larger than you plan for your 50mm graver sharpener. It has a belt drive reduction for the large discs to get about 400rpm
Why not look into building a battery-powered machine perhaps using 18660 batteries and a geared DC motor with the disc mounted on a backing plate directly on the output shaft? All you'd need then is a small switch and charging port and mount it all into a plastic enclosure.
|Thread: machine dovetails.|
It was probably originally planed and then ground or scraped.
The wear is quite apparent on the face in view which is concentrated around the ends as you would expect. This will have the effect of 'loosening' the table at the travel extents in the way you describe and coupled to the inevitable wear on the angled vee ways will make the table rock the way it is.
The thing is you cannot fix that by just machining the one vee. You need to machine/grind and/or scrape the top flat AND parallel with the y-axis flat way first and then map the wear in the front and rear vee then figure out where it needs machining/scraping. If you just go at it you'll have no idea if the x travel is going to be perfectly perpendicular to the Y travel both horizontally and vertically.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.