Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sourcing materials|
To buy scrap you have to be licensed so almost no scrap dealer is going to tell you over the phone that they'll let you go hunting because they'll never know if it's the environment agency testing them out. You gotta go in person, pop in the office and ask who is the best person to talk to about buying a couple of bits of round. Bonus is they always separate non-ferrous so brass/bronze/copper is always pre-sorted and always kept separate out of the way so the customers don't help themselves.
Local sources are always best I have found. Small engineering firms or fabricators If you approach at the right time of day (go armed with biscuits just before 10am is a good trick) and don't make a nuisance of yourself/try to tell them your life story they will often be very friendly and let you rummage through their scrap bin.
A little thinking out of the box can do wonders too. I once bought a Coronet wood lathe for £40 off gumtree because I wanted the motor. The bed was 2 stout steel bars about an 1-3/4" diameter. I still have some of one of those bars left somewhere.
If you're lucky to have a small supplier nearby don't discount buying new stock. I got 2x3m lengths of .75" EN8DN free-machining bar yesterday for £48 locally. The first hit I got on eBay has it at £7.50/12" so 3x the price If you buy in person whilst you're there, you can ask about off-cuts of other materials. If you're looking for several diameters and have time to spare, buying one length of the largest diameter and turn it down to suit.
|Thread: Quality/Durability of milling cutters|
I bought a handful of Hanita 3-flute endmills once, never found the like again. They were simply awesome.
EDIT: no wonder, they are £42 each plus vat. I bought 5 for £25 off ebay. Wish I had bought them all.:
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 17/10/2018 17:40:06
|Thread: Multiple vee-belt lathe drive|
One of our machines uses a 10 belt sheave. They go out of sync very quickly but it doesn't affect the operation.
|Thread: Jones & Shipman surface grinder drive unit|
No, not at all Rob. The position of the two round weights in the middle set the front/rear clearance as I recall.
|Thread: Gear wheel 45mm in diameter with 70 teeth|
Where are you Bill? I'm in North Kent and I could hob those teeth onto your blank in very short order.
What's the application Bill? Can you suffer a slightly modified diameter or gear form? What does the gear have to mate with?
|Thread: G-gem gib or g-golf -gib?|
Well said - Jeorgineer!
|Thread: problem with rotary table|
If bolting a part to the table makes it flex, then either the table or the part isn't flat. I'd be bluing the table up to see if it was pringle-shaped first off.
|Thread: Bench grinder improvement mod.|
I've done that to all of my grinders. You get a nice true-running wheel and a wide choice of grits and hardnesses.
|Thread: Gibs, adjustment screws and brass|
Perversely even though the fly-cut surface looks rough if it's flat then it will work (for a short time) better than a totally smooth way. The trouble is that bare machined surfaces are usually not close to good enough to make for a good way bearing. I don't think I have ever blued up a cross slide or compound and got what I would call a workable bearing right from the off. Some have been very good but the vast majority have had less than 10% of blue transfer onto the surface.
Also I don't like brass as a material for a gib. I'm guessing that the gibs they sell are brass because they are easily produced and people associate the brass with bearing bronze. Brass is usually very soft so embeds particles easily and when whatever lube is on it dries out it gets quite 'gummy' in it's sliding behaviour. Cast iron and steel are much better, I've made several from gauge plate which I think is my preferred material for a flat gib..
You certainly shouldn't judge a person for having an immaculate workshop. Most of us would kill for this guy's setup and his work is incredible. On top of that Edvind's just the nicest guy and supremely modest. I spent the week with him on a hand-scraping course.
|Thread: Jones & Shipman surface grinder drive unit|
I had one of those counter-weight grinders, though it's long gone now. The shaft is held one two tapered bronze bushes that need very careful adjustment. You seem to be missing the oil slinger cover that causes the oil to pool in the reservoir and run back down the gallery to the wick feeder.
They don't have oil seals as I recall, or at least mine didn't I can't help you with the disassembly of yours since it looks different to mine, but if it helps at all here is mine all stripped apart.
|Thread: Ratchet wheel|
I would turn a centre to fit in the dividing head taper. I presume it's a morse taper 2 or 3? Turn it from 1" mild steel and then turn an arbor for your ratchet blank on the opposite end, with a thread for a retaining nut. and centre-drill the ends.
Mount your taper in the dividing head, load the blank onto it securing with the nut, hold the outboard end with the tailstock centre and now you can cut your ratchet with an end-mill to however many divisions you might want.
|Thread: New WD40 Can|
I have two of these, one filled with brake cleaner the other with wd40.
They are great for cleaning and de-greasing. The WD40 make for a great light duty de-greaser and cleaner and doesn't take the gloss off paint like the harsher brake cleaner does. The brake cleaner I use a lot when I have a scraping job to do. My local motor factor often has the brake cleaner on special offer, 4x5L for £36 or thereabouts.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 30/09/2018 18:11:28
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 30/09/2018 18:12:50
|Thread: Complete beginners threading euphoria|
Well done Christopher.
When you're cutting threads, especially when you're starting out and test-fitting the nut each time, keep an eye on the thread outside diameter. In many materials the OD will grow as you make the thread because the flat-topped threading tool raises a small burr that you might not notice. This will cause the nut to not fit even well after you have cut the full depth, the usual result being a very sloppy fit as you have found on your first attempt.
Make a few threading passes then check the OD with a caliper and you'll soon spot any problem. A quick swipe with a flat file as the part is turning will keep it all in check. Using lubricant can go a long way to avoiding it.
|Thread: Herbert Lathe Info "help"|
Luckily, South Bend produced a very handy booklet that covers their range of lathes. Here it is on Steve Wells' brilliant South Bend resource:
Everything South Bend:
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 28/09/2018 10:50:02
That dealer plate is common on Herbert-branded equipment since they were once one of the largest machinery manufacturer in the world so they had vast leverage on branding. If it was a machine actually produced by Herbert, it would be all over the castings instead of just on a rivet plate.
That's definitely a South Bend or a copy of one. Are there any more photos of it, or any evidence of what the ND stands for?
EDIT: Here you go Trevor, a discussion on the very same subject from 12 years ago. It's a shame that the photos are gone, it might possibly be the same lathe.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 27/09/2018 23:47:31
That's a South Bend 16", or a clone of one.
|Thread: 3 phase converter help needed please|
Hey George it might be worth mentioning your location. You might have someone here nearby who could pop round and steer you straight with your VFD.
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