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Member postings for Pete Rimmer

Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Meddings Pillar Drill, VFD and referb
07/12/2019 11:31:55
Posted by petro1head on 06/12/2019 18:32:34:

I had another look under the cover and noticed the area that looked burnst was in fact oil from my oily hand, that plus the white balance was wrong

He is another photo


Edited By petro1head on 06/12/2019 18:33:10

Internet diagnosis is always difficult because of things like that. Difficult anyway. For instance, the small portion of windings visible in the photo look like they have been somewhat cooked, but that might be another trick of the light or even just the colour of the varnish.

06/12/2019 16:02:23

Star or delta connection should not have a bearing on the fault you were getting, but I see evidence of burning to the right of the connector block. I don't think that you can safely assume that this fault is fixed.

Thread: Lathe lighting
06/12/2019 10:54:06
Posted by Robin Graham on 06/12/2019 00:24:02:

Thanks Pete - that's one of the things I hadn't thought of. Can you elaborate on your reasons for thinking that it's not a good idea to have the light moving with the carriage? I've found it helpful, when it doesn't bump into anything... but I'm a tyro.


Edited By Robin Graham on 06/12/2019 00:24:45

Edited By Robin Graham on 06/12/2019 00:25:27

Well, light isn't like coolant it doesn't have to follow the work. If you fix the lamp somewhere where it lights the whole area around the chuck you'll get better spread and less glare. If the lamp is moving you might have it so low that you feed it into the work, the chuck or it might get caught by any stringy swarf and whipped into the job (or the operator). It's also in an inconvenient place for the compound controls as you've discovered.

06/12/2019 00:03:08

I see no good reason to have it moving with the carriage, and several reasons not to. I'd re-locate it to the splash guard so it can be swung out of the way at times.

Thread: Ho hum it's a cracker, but not in a good way!
05/12/2019 14:22:41

I wouldn't worry about the crack but that slide certainly could do with a bit of scraping.

Thread: Why mostly manual cars in UK
04/12/2019 15:59:40

Autos have traditionally been expensive and juicy and carried the stigma of being a car for people who 'can't walk and chew gum' i.e. can't manage a clutch and gear stick. I say this having a mother who somehow managed to pass her auto test but even in an automatic being her passenger was a terrifying ordeal.

I don't know how it is in Aus but in the UK if you'll normally learn to drive in a manual car which gets you a licence to drive any transmission type, or you can opt (either by choice or necessity as above) to take a test in an automatic which restricts you to automatic transmission cars. Thus, most people test in a manual car and therefore buy the type they learned to drive in.

The reliabiliy/consumption issues are largely gone now and the 'stigma' much diminished but manuals are still (just) out-selling autos, which are fast gaining favour because of modern technological features such a paddle-shift. Kids play driving games on their consoles and that makes paddle-shift (and pure-auto) cars very familiar to them now.

Thread: Screwcutting on the lathe
04/12/2019 11:43:55

Iain I've done a little drawing in cad today and your 0.92mm infeed at 30 degrees comes up slightly short of the minimum depth you'd need to reach the minor diameter for the nut so it would never go on, and it would require a 0.4mm flat to attain the proper flank width at that depth anyway. Obviously you don't want that because your thread is 1. not quite deep enough and 2. has no root clearance.

If your tip width was 0.25mm (10 thou) you could infeed 1.06mm and you would have a usable thread with good root clearance.

With a sharp point you need 1.31mm infeed, at 30 degrees to achieve the proper thread width at the pitch line. This is not very desirable because the sharp point makes for a much weaker thread.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 04/12/2019 11:51:13

Thread: Kerry 1124 lathe - some healing required
02/12/2019 09:20:12

I would repair that gib adjuster by counter-boring the adjuster hole deeper and making a new adjuster screw, trim the end of the gib to suit.

Thread: Screwcutting on the lathe
01/12/2019 17:26:31

HSS ground tool? Most probably you don't have the proper tip radius/width which means you are 'touching off' the start of the thread too far out, meaning you are stopping before the thread is fully cut.

Thread: Kerry 1124 lathe - some healing required
01/12/2019 13:38:01

Andrew, I had another look at your photos and you have a 127/100 compound gear in the end train. With your 4mm screw this can only be because the previous owner was cutting imperial threads on the metric machine. Perhaps he also changed the cross-slide screw for an imperial one because he preferred to work in imperial.

Perhaps the missing screwcutting chart is due to him having an anathema to the metric system, just as my father did (though he would never vandalise a machine because of it)?

In any case, if you want to revert to all-metric it would not be too difficult requiring only the cross slide screw replacement and to re-arrange the end-gearing back to how it should be (or to what works). If you wanted to build a screwcutting chart for metric and/or imperial that would not be difficult either, but it will take a bit of input from yourself as to what gearing options there are to work with.

01/12/2019 12:24:31

Andrew, the photos in your album show a lathe with a full screwcutting gearbox. Is that your one?


The lever being 3-position rather than 2-position is probably due to the machine being metric rather than imperial, I would guess.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 01/12/2019 12:31:36

01/12/2019 01:12:36

Every lathe I have seen a 3-position lever on, the lever has been for 1x 2x 4x feed/lead rates, so you would set gears for 1mm, 2mm, 4mm pitch (according to the lever position), or otherwise 0.75, 1.5, 3mm pitch, if you follow me.

You'll need the appropriate gears for the end cluster. Do you have those? If so, providing the stud gear, gearbox input gear tooth counts plus what other gears you have would help towards building up a table of change-gears for various threads.


EDIT: does your machine perhaps resemble anything on this page?


Edited By Pete Rimmer on 01/12/2019 01:17:08

Thread: Tapping a nylon hole.
30/11/2019 22:13:12

You don't need a super-hard tap to cut a thread in nylon. Turn a slightly over-sized thread in something like EN8 then mill/grind some flutes in it and use that to chase your thread slightly bigger.

Thread: Kerry 1124 lathe - some healing required
30/11/2019 21:03:23

My Monarch lathe is diameter-reading and I find it much better. Only problem is they also made the compound diameter-reading so you have to remember to double the scale for any required in-feed.

I've always advocated making 10tpi single-start screws as replacement for the 2-start ones in Bantams/Chipmaster lathes because the screws are easier to make and you can use the same dials to become diameter-reading ones.

30/11/2019 19:40:12
Posted by old mart on 30/11/2019 19:32:33:

You need a dial with 100 divisions for your 10 tpi leadscrew, to read in thousandths of an inch. It may be possible to fit a digital scale and not have to worry about the thread pitch.

Actually, his 2mm (if it's 200 graduation) dial is perfect for a 10tpi cross-slide screw. It'll just be diameter-reading instead of radius.

30/11/2019 18:38:19


Is it your wish to have a metric screw or an imperial dial? What are main leadscrew and compound leadscrew metric or imperial?

Could be that someone has swapped all the screws and that's why the threading plate is missing, it would no longer be relevant.


Thread: Extending an M16 thread.
29/11/2019 23:53:34

You'll have to turn the 18mm dia down to 16mm anyway, so why not attempt it in a lathe?

With care, it's not usually that hard to pick up on a 60 degree thread. Set the compound over to 30 degrees. Blue up the threads and feed the cross slide in until you just start scraping the blue off the trailing flank. Now make more passes feeding in the compound until you start scraping the blue off the leading flank. You've now picked up the thread perfectly. Set your dials to zero, back off and start cutting the new threads. It's better to use the 'straight in' method for this to keep the load on each side of the tool equal, but it shouldn't really matter.

Thread: LPG heater- fumes
28/11/2019 09:41:10

A headache probably means that the LPG is not all getting burned. Years ago we had a machine fitted with LPG (propane) conversion designed for indoor use (large spaces). The fuelling was not properly set up initially and it laid three of us low with the worst headaches imaginable after a couple of hours.

I had a butane heater in my 5m x 4m workshop for a long time with no ill-effects. It was an older type but well built. Now I use ceiling-mounted infra-red heaters.

Thread: It's Myford Jim, but not as we know it!
23/11/2019 07:12:32

A couple of the people I made 33/34 gears for commented on this also.

Thread: new gear for Fortis lathe
22/11/2019 13:43:25
Posted by vic donnelly on 20/11/2019 18:42:59:

I have found that I have a number of teeth missing from one of my feed screw gears (aprox 6.25" 93 teeth) the lathe seems to be well worth a replacement, so I am looking for a machine shop to make one to pattern. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Vic Donnelly

Vic are you sure that it's 93 teeth and not 98? A stamped 8 often looks like a 3.

A 98 tooth 16DP gear would be 6.25" diameter exactly.

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