Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?|
Glass and granite worktops are fine for marking out, but not much good as a reference surface for scraping. The main reason is that whilst it MIGHT be flat enough it almost certainly isn't and then any bend twist or dish that's in the plate will be scraped into the part.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 21/07/2019 12:39:06
|Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia|
Steel makes perfectly adequate chuck backplates, and it is stronger than cast iron. Cast iron is cheap which is why it continues to be so prevalent. Easy to cast into a rough shape then machine to a finished article. Cast steel is not nearly so easy to make.
|Thread: Best way to cut HSS tool blanks from bar?|
Thanks Jim. Yes it's just a bit of inch bar about 8" long, with some flats milled in it and cross-drilled for the tool bits. In hindsight 8mm was a poor choice as it limits the range of HSS tooling I can use (hence the rather nice drill being butchered), but I had a broken 8mm carbide end mill to use in it originally. Broken carbide end mills make for great lathe tools, if it does take a good while to grind them to shape on a diamond wheel.
I rough out all my HSS tools with a thin grinder disc. It puts much less heat in than the bench grinder. I even made this tool last week by cutting a 8mm drill bit and roughing the shape with my mini grinder before finishing the tool on my grinder to cut a 4TPI Whitworth thread.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 16/07/2019 18:16:52
|Thread: Engineers blue alternatives|
You can use a foam roller or an ink roller (plastic roller with a rubber sleeve over it). The foam gloss rollers work OK for water based spotting blues but I prefer the ink roller for oil based like stuarts. When rolling out the ink I tend to load the roller by putting a db of blue on a small plate and rolling it out then using the loaded roller to lie the part or plate.
|Thread: Recent threads|
I'm not upset about not being able to say what I like. Generally I don't try to deliberately offend people any more than I deliberately go out of my way to make sure I don't use words that could be used in an offensive context. I can tell the difference between an acronym and an insult. If someone took issue with my use of the acronym, I would simply say that I'm sorry that you're upset.
It's quite easy Dave. Look at what's been said or written and consider if it was sent in a manner designed to cause offence. It's usually very easy to tell.
Here's an example - if I said that I didn't have the manpower to do a particular job, it doesn't mean that I don't consider women capable of doing that job, it just means that I don't have enough people for it. I used a long-standing term which isn't designed to be discriminatory just passing comment that I'm under-staffed. I wouldn't worry about any possible 'offence' it might cause because I didn't intend any, even though there are the those who would seize the chance to take it.
Another real-life example is the banning of the use of the acronym SPIC, which had always been used to refer to the Site Person In Charge on the railway. During a refresher course they said that it's no longer acceptable to use the term SPIC because it's a derogatory term and offensive to people of Spanish origin. I said no, it's an acronym. "Anyway, they changed it to S.P.C so in the training course we'll be using the term S.P.C not 'that other term'."
"So, we all know what S.P.C stands for don't we?" I put my hand up and said "Stupid Political Correctness".
Only because so many see offence where none is given. If a person's comments are not delivered in a manner designed to give offence, they should not worry about it being given unintentionally.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 14/07/2019 19:46:55
|Thread: MEW 283 Electronic Leadscrew link|
Indeed, and back in the win95/98 days there was a trojan virus which installed itself as rundIl.exe, which looked exactly like rundll.exe and so was hard to spot.
|Thread: idler pulley with spring loading|
Spring loading a belt tensioner isn't a great idea. When the load comes on the belt pushes the idler back and it slips anyway or they can start reciprocating. It's far better to make the pulley adjustable with the facility to be fixed in position.
A pic or a link to the machine would help a lot. It's hard to give advice without knowing what space constraints or mounting options you have.
|Thread: Mains outlets with USB sockets - safety?|
I don't know what could possibly go wrong....
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 08/07/2019 17:10:45
Where are you George? I have taught the basics of scraping to several people and they have taken it from there to improve their machines. My time is precious but if you're near North Kent and desperate to learn I could find a few hours spare.
|Thread: Using a lathe|
Of course it's not illegal. I'll-advised if not supervised perhaps but not illegal at all, unless it's in the workplace. In the workplace no child can operate any machinery where it " involves risk of accidents that cannot reasonably be recognised or avoided by young people due to their insufficient attention to safety or lack of experience or training". A manual lathe would certainly qualify for that.
|Thread: Gear Measuring|
It's very close to 11DP (less than half a mm out on the OD) but I think that planetary drive gears are bound to be non-standard whichever way. Stick the gear on a flatbed scanner and take a greyscale scan of it at about 200dpi. Post the pic.
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 29/06/2019 14:19:22
|Thread: Do you clean your workshop at the end of the day?|
I like to keep my workshop moderately tidy. I have a good bit of bench space and like to keep it clear so that anything I strip down doesn't get lost or scattered.
Swarf is easy to keep control of, I put on gloves and shovel handfuls into a waiting rubble bag then use a Numatic hoover to clean up the small bits Works for the lathe and the mill alike.. I sweep then hoover the floor (with the same numatic), takes half a minute. I don't keep the place pristine but I do hate losing stuff just because it's fallen into a mess. Plus the wife really gets annoyed if I walk swarf into the house.
I guess that I call flaking an oil retention process because Biax produce a tool for doing it and call it a flaker :D
|Thread: Multi faceted drill bits - really necessary?|
The main reason for 4-facets instead of just 2 is if you were to only cut the primary angle the tool will foul the work at the heel (behind the cutting edge). The secondary angle (which creates the four facet drill) is necessary for that extra clearance.
It's subjective, I would call frosting a decorative process, flaking an oil-retention process and scraping a fitting & alignment process but that doesn't mean the next guy agrees just like different people would call my bacon roll a cob a barm or a teacake. What counts is whether or not it's done appropriately IMO.
Yes indeed. Scraping cuts are typically .0002" deep. Flaking (or frosting) cuts five to ten times that.
|Thread: small belts|
Get the right length and appropriate pitch poly-vee belt and cut it down to the width you need. I've done that to replace a round belt on the narrow pulleys. Works wonderfully well.
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