Here is a list of all the postings Pete Rimmer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: OMT microscope - restored|
Nice work Gerry. Are those Shardlow micrometer heads? They look identical to the ones I have on my Hilger & Watts microscope.
|Thread: Wall Chart|
How is this Derek? Prints on A3
Edited By Pete Rimmer on 24/07/2021 15:25:12
|Thread: Maximat V10-P Lathe Headstock Gears|
Dave if you post up some details/pics of the gear you need I might be able to help if you can't find anywhere that supplies it. I take it the original gear is plastic or fiber?
|Thread: Silver Solder Stocks|
Does being illegal to put on the market automatically make buying it an offence too though?
|Thread: Is there a chart for drill hole dia vs. boring bar size?|
You need space for the chips that are produced to prevent packing of the hole so for short pieces you can use less clearance but longer bores you either add clearance, take smaller cuts, use some kind of flush or retract the tool more often.
|Thread: Silver Solder Stocks|
I suspect that the manufacture of such solder is far more hazardous on the whole than the use, and the process of cadmium plating several orders of magnitude more enviromentally hazardous again.
|Thread: Bench grinder|
Nothing naughty about recommending a decent piece of kit. Metabo stuff is genuine German quality not German-badged Chinese stuff. Clarke is bottom-end quality and at £25 for a grinder and two silicone carbide wheels you can be thankful it even spins.
People have already pointed out the cause of the problem and the solution. Budget grinders have tiny shoulders on the shaft and cheap stamped-out side plates that have holes with too much clearance on the shaft and not enough bearing on the tiny shoulder. You CAN mount a wheel running true with them but you'll grow a beard trying. Get some scrap plate in your lathe and turn some thicker side plates that fit closely on the shaft and hence hold the wheels square or do what many including myself have done and turn a 1-1/4" hub with plate integrated that goes on the shaft and take advantage of the superior range of surface grinder wheels out there.
Sadly there's no info in the manual. If it were my machine I would take the lid off and determine the value of the pot on the panel. Chances are that you are correct and it needs a different pot (possibly a different wattage too). Commonly the pot in the foot pdal will match the oe on the panel.
|Thread: San Ou K72 - 200 4Jaw Chuck Sitrep|
I think that the feedback on general quality and finish is as important as anything so thanks for that Mike. It's true that any part held firmly and turned should have no runout but it could be out of round, tapered or all kinds of shapes if the jaw faces were not parallel and lkwed the part to Rick in the jaws whilst turning, so there is some significance there.
Incidentally whilst the conce tricity of the rear register is an indication of the general quality it is in no way critical to the mounting of the chuck body concentric to the backplate. You can achieve that with no register at all by using a DTI to dial the chuck in before tightening the bolts. What is most critical is the parallelism of the chuck face to the rear mounting face. You can't adjust that out.
|Thread: Old lathe tools|
The one with the hole and slot is a spring threading tool, used to prevent chatter when approaching full depth on a threadcutting job.
|Thread: Chuck fitting|
Ah, yes my apologies. What can I say it's been a long week...
I would do it and in fact I would probably prefer it. With plain bolts holding the chuck all of the registering will be done by the register. With countersunk head screws holding the chuck the self-centering function of the countersinks might be competing with the register for chuck alignment.
|Thread: Lathe cover|
An ordinary bedsheet makes a good cover and I find duck oil liberally diluted with brake cleaner in a pump pressure pot makes not only a good cleaner but a decent preservative too. I must stress though, I don't have any rust problems within the workshop.
|Thread: Man management|
The ones that have a the stuff you're requiring are working on larger projects where pre-quals are a necessity. They are there because they have that stuff. The day-traders and also-rans are left to Joe public to choose from. The ones in the mid-range sub out to the bigger ones.
If you're talking about retention money on a 500 quid bill no wonder they are getting headaches and the phone goes dead tbh.
|Thread: Lathe gear calculation|
You could use one of the several ready-made calculator options listed on this page:
|Thread: dirty metric fudge|
With 10TPI screws you could make your dials dual-reading. 0.1" pitch is 2.54mm so you could print dial scales with 100 divisions for imperial and 250 for metric then the metric scale would only be off by 0.04mm/turn (1.57 thou). Less than the error in a well worn cross slide screw.
Some Denford lathes do exactly this.
|Thread: Corbetts Little Jim Lathe restoration - newbie needs advice|
Because your cross slide handle moves with te slide that makes it a RH thread. I would get a 7/16" x 10TPI ACME tap and run it straight through that nut then make or buy a new cross slide screw. If you need help making the screw then several people here myself included could do that.
I may be wrong but it looks like the slide is designed to ride on the top flat ways rather than the bottom dovetail ways. If it is then those ways need attention. If it isn't then they need taking down a bit so that the slide isn't riding on a part that it's not supposed to.
|Thread: Lathe gear calculation|
127 does not give a pitch error for metric conversion. 63 does though.
|Thread: Screw cutting advice ml7|
There is nothing to prevent you from stopping the motor, winding the handle along until your lines line up then putting the half-nuts in before re-starting the motor, if you're worried about engaging it in the wrong place. It's slow and it might be hard on the motor starting cap but it would save you from trashing a part or crashing the lathe.
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