Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Phillips 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Piston rings too thick|
Thanks for your replies; thinning the ring using emery on a surface plate is the way to go. I have a suitable piece of engineering plastic to make a holder, as Neil suggested. Cheers, Andrew
Hi John, I had thought of that but making a mandrel and some sort of drawbar to fasten to the gudgeon pin seems a bit tricky. Worth a thought, though. Andrew
Hi All, I frequent autojumbles, looking for stuff for my '50s AMC singles. A while ago I picked up a +60 piston, sans rings, always useful to have in reserve. I recently found a set of +60 rings for a fiver, but although the 2 compression rings fit, the oil control ring is a couple of thou too deep top to bottom. I have a book from the 30s that describes how to make piston rings on a lathe, but it is a lot of hassle. I thought a simpler way would be to put the ring on a surface grinder and take a thou or so off top and bottom faces. I might be able to do this at the local tech college, or pay an engineering firm. Any thoughts? Cheers, Andrew
|Thread: Myford Super 7 back gear won't engage|
Chris, Russ, thanks for your prompt replies, very helpful. Chris, you were right about backgear lever going out of adjustment - I have readjusted it and I can now engage backgear and it works under power. Cheers, Andrew
Hi All, I have a Myford Super 7 lathe. I wanted to clean up a thread so engaged backgear to get an appropriate speed. I engaged the backgear lever in its upper position, released the backgear key, as I have done many times before. I released the clutch, and the spindle did not turn, while the gears made a graunching sound. Checked everything was set properly, but still the same result. I have checked all relevant gears and can see no missing/broken teeth. Confession time: I have in the past engaged backgear to remove chucks before I knew better, but, as I said, no teeth were missing or appeared damaged. The only thing I can think of is the backgear lever is not lifting the gear high enough to engage teeth on spindle gears. Has anyone out there had this problem? All suggestions welcome. Cheers, Andrew
|Thread: Braze or screw cut - which is stronger?|
Hi All, thanks for your replies. I will probably go for the screw thread method for now but I intend to learn brazing - it will be my ngineering challenge for the coming autumn. Cheers, Andrew
|Thread: Making an internal circlip|
Duncan, thanks very much for this, Draganfly have them at a very reasonable price - I had no luck through AMC supply sources. I no longer need to make my own and this thread can be considered closed. Cheers, Andrew
I am restoring an Autojumble 1950s Burman B52 motorcycle gearbox. The mainshaft runs in 2 ball bearings, located in the diecast aluminium case by a combination of interference fit and a locating internal circlip, one of which is missing. It fits in a 40mm diameter slot, is around 30 thou thick and made from 3/16 deep strip, with a hole at each end for circlip pliers. Modern DIN internal circlips are far too thick and I lack the capability or tools to widen the circlip groove to take modern ones. These circlips are very hard to come by and I am thinking of making my own; suitable spring steel plate is available annealed or tempered. I have made discs and washers from thin plate before, by cutting rough shapes, sandwiching beween offcuts, drilling to fit an arbour, cutting the O/D, then boring to internal size. For a circlip I would then cut out a bit of the circle. My problem is how to get the required degree of outward 'spring' - should I just tweak it out a bit over 40mm by hand prior to tempering or is there a formula? I would oil harden it (the easy bit), but does it need subsequent tempering (much harder to get the right colour) given that once fitted, it is unlikely to be removed again in the next 50 years or so? Thanking you, Andrew
|Thread: Braze or screw cut - which is stronger?|
Hi All, this really is a very friendly and helpful forum - I wish I had come across it years ago! I am making a damper rod for motorcycle forks from a length of 5/16 in 16Gauge tubing One end requires a 1/4 in threaded extension. I plan to make this extension (about 1 in) from 5/16 MS rod threaded 1/4 CEI 26tpi one end, with the other end turned to fit into the tube. I can either thread tube and extension piece 7/32 ME 32 tpi and further secure with loctite, or turn the end plain to fit the tube and braze it in place. I am familiar with threading, but it would be an interesting experiment to learn basic brazing. Which joint would be stronger - screwing or brazing? The joint should be as strong as possible but is not safety critical. Your thoughts? Thanking you in advance, Andrew
|Thread: Turning a finned aluminium cylinder barrel for a motorcycle|
Gentlemen, thanks very much for your replies. My bike is a 1954 500cc 93mm stroke model and I am trying to create a 'clubman's' model as per the factory 350 model entered in the TT in the late '40s but in the larger size; alloy barrels for the '56 on 86mm stroke version are readily available but too different to modify; the earlier 93mm alloy barrels are unobtainable and have been so for decades. I did consider a casting using the cast iron barrel as a pattern (shrinkage would not be an issue) but I have been advised that the fin surfaces are not smooth enough and they are almost imossible to get at as the gap between them is about 3/8 inch. I planned to use a press fit liner as per BSA and Vincent as it would be easier and less dimensionally critical for me as an amateur machinist. I have seen a 350 alloy barrel made on a lathe, and KTT Services make them for Velos, so I know it can be done. Alas, Bracknell Tech Colleg has very limited facilities - 1 x Harrison lathe, 1 x Bridgeport mill, no rotary table. They had a full engineering set up until last year but then stopped teaching apprentices and sold off most of the machinery - what chance do we have of ever making stuff again?!! A few years ago I attended Model Engineer evening classes at Newbury College - they also closed their engineering dept but kept the Astrology and Cake Icing classes - is this our new industrial heritage???!!! So, I thought it would basically be lathework but the idea of turning up a pattern has its attractions as it can be built up a fin at a time - any suggestions for material? I can find suitable parting inserts on the web, but nor holders - any ideas? If not, the guage plate idea looks good. Thnks again for your help, Andrew
Hi All, I have just joined this forum; I have several engineering interests inluding classic motorcycles, and I would be very grateful for your accumulated wisdom. I have a Myford Super 7 at home, and access to a Harrison lathe at Tech College. I want to make an aluminium cylinder barrel for a Matchless motorcycle, which will require cutting fins about 2.5 ins deep in a 9 in diameter alloy billet. The College only has HSS parting off tools which will not cut deep enough, and the indexable tip tool I use on the Myford is not strong or deep enough. I am prepared to buy a suitable parting off tool to use at college, preferably with a rounded tip to cut the bottom of the fins nicely. Any suggestions/sources, bearing in mind I will only use the tool for this one job? My plan of action is to bore the cylinder on a Bridgeport using a boring head (it is off centre so doing this job on a lathe would be very hard). I would them mount the barrel on the faceplet and use a plug in the outer end of the barrel bore to support it with a rotating centre, then cut the fins. Finally I would finish the square base on the Bridgeport and insert a cast iron liner. Any thoughts/ideas/am I biting off more than I can chew? Term starts nin September so I would have plenty of time to get materials. Grateful for any help. Andrew
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