Here is a list of all the postings Henry Artist has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Whats the correct size clamp kit for the mini mill?|
I would strongly urge you to telephone Arc and discuss your requirements with them. They are super helpful and know what they are talking about. They also do starter sets with a selection of things in them that you will find useful and can advise you on which one will suit your needs.
Having a clamping system based around M6 fasteners means it is real easy and inexpensive to get extra studding, allen screws, hex nuts, and washers. You can never have enough T-nuts but since you have a shiny new milling machine guess what your first milling project might be...
|Thread: Suggestions for lathe-only projects?|
If you want some good projects where the end product is not a workshop tool or tool accessory I would strongly urge you to read the following books -
The first book on the list will probably be the most beneficial to you in the long run. In the first chapter - Ways And Means - the author discusses how the projects in the book may be completed by those with limited workshop facilities. Throughout the book alternative approaches to each step are offered. It's a great book for increasing your knowledge and skills. And you end up with a working steam engine!
Since you have yet to acquire a drill press you may like to try a technique that has been known to Unimat (and Sieg C0) owners for many years - drill chuck goes on the lathe spindle and faceplate goes on the tailstock. Mount a small drilling vice to the faceplate or clamp the work directly to it. Ta-dah! You now have a horizontal drilling machine.
|Thread: Hello everyone|
Hello and welcome to the forum.
A lathe is an incredibly versatile machine tool but no single lathe is perfect for everything a lathe could be used for. If such a machine existed we'd all have that one. Instead we have a bewildering variety of the things each capable of performing well within a certain range. If what you want to use a lathe for falls within the capacity of a particular machine then, Hurrah!, you have found the one that's right for you.
So to help point you in roughly the right direction it would be really good if you could give us a bit of a clue as to where your interests lie. You don't have to be too specific just a general idea, for example -
Most people start out with a mini-lathe. So many in fact that there is a thread specifically for them to read at the top of the Manual Machine Tools section of the forum.
Remember to leave room in your budget for the "everything else" that you will need in order to actually make things with your lathe e.g. extra chucks, measuring instruments, lathe tools, things that go in the tailstock, drills, taps & dies, materials, etc. (A hacksaw, small bench grinder, and a bench vice are useful too.)
|Thread: Quality small metric spanners|
I have a couple of sets of Bergen metric small spanners, both open ended and combination which have served me well for years. I seem to end up using a lot of M2 and M3 fasteners in my model engineering.
I also use Expo nutrunners - they look like a screwdriver but fit over a nut.
|Thread: Help with lathe speed|
Depending on what you intend to use the lathe for, why not just use a motor and speed controller from a mini-lathe?
|Thread: 1" Minnie Steering Chain Supplier.|
Because brass chain is less likely to corrode/rust if it gets wet. Some model boat builders actually sail their creations - though not as many as you might think...
|Thread: Good YouTube videos|
Further to the excellent suggestions already made, here are some of the channels I watch for inspiration and ideas on how to make things -
Adam Savage's Tested Mainly dealing with making models and movie props. In recent years his videos have involved more machining based projects.
Banjo Show Creative steampunk themed projects.
Clickspring Very talented New Zealand clockmaker. His videos on the "primitive" techniques involved in his reproduction of the Antikythera Mechanism are particularly interesting.
mdevink Jos de Vink's truly impressive hot air engines.
prallplatte Should all models powered by live steam look like they were made 100 years ago? No? Good.
Engineer BrunS Very entertaining and creative Russian channel.
Jaques Clabaux Model engineer making small model steam engines in French Polynesia.
De Puffende Schoorsteen The models of a Dutch model engineer.
Leslie Proper Very small steam engines - mainly for model boats.
SteamerEdge Model engineering done with a Unimat lathe.
reddrryder American collector of model and toy steam engines.
|Thread: model figures|
Depending on your model making skills toy and action figures can be adapted to suit your purpose though the materials they are made from are generally not heat resistant so you might not want to have them too close to a running steam engine.
1:12 scale dolls house figures cast in resin are somewhat more heat resistant. Most people are shorter than 6' so they would be historically accurate (poor 19th century diet and all that).
|Thread: 1" Minnie Steering Chain Supplier.|
Model boat suppliers generally offer a wide variety of chains. Cornwall Model Boats may be a good place to look. I've been doing business with them for years for various bits and pieces for my model engineering projects.
|Thread: Lightweight Milling Table|
Aside from the challenge and enjoyment of constructing your own workshop machinery, you might find it easier to purchase a small milling machine that is already complete and works.
However, machine tools that have the words "robust", "rigid", and "precise" in their description (and reviews) do tend to cost a little more than those that also include the word "not". (The obvious exception to this is some of the machines made by Proxxon which while not cheap are perhaps better suited to the needs of those involved in model making and handicrafts rather than model engineering and horology.)
I have no hesitation in recommending the Sieg SX1LP which I purchased from Arc. Similar machines for a similar price are available from Chronos, Chester, Axminster, etc. Each is slightly different so it is worth comparing all of them to find the one that is right for you.
If a lack of funds or inherent tight-fistedness is an issue, you may like to consider a second-hand machine with the usual caveat that (where it is practical to do so) you should examine the machine in person before purchase and know what to look for. G&M Tools might be a good place to start your search and, if nothing else, may be a source of inspiration.
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
I thought it was only the sale of new petrol and diesel cars that would be banned in 2030...
No mention of banning sales of other forms of infernal combustion engine transport (yet).
I expect a thriving second-hand market will exist for some time after 2030. Perhaps we should look to Cuba for inspiration on how to keep old vehicles running with severely limited resources.
Depressingly, there is a long and sad history of our Glorious Leaders enacting policies in the vague hope that reality will eventually conform to their aspirations at some unspecified point in the future e.g. diesel car emissions, public transport in general, the national railway system, etc.
|Thread: Parting off with a 5/6" toolpost|
Ditch the 4-way tool post, it's just three extra ways to cut your hand. Get a Quick Change Tool Post instead.
With a QCTP it's easy to set the height of a tool and there's no more faffing about with shims. Also it would give you a bigger choice of tools that you could use on your lathe.
It can really improve your enjoyment of your lathe and quality of life in general. YMMV.
Maybe it's time to write another letter to Santa? Don't forget to ask him for extra tool holders - you can never have enough... Ever
|Thread: Cutting copper tube square|
Further to the excellent answers already given, once you have cut your slice of material from the tube place a sheet of abrasive paper on a flat surface. Using circular and figure-of-eight motions true up the ends of the part. Check your progress frequently with an engineer's square.
|Thread: Newton's 3rd Law|
I believe Neil's analysis is correct. Exactly the same principle is used when a boat fitted with a kitchen rudder is moving astern.
The kitchen rudder seems to be something of a rarity these days though they can be super useful to the model steam boat fraternity. The engine and propeller only run in one direction thus simplifying construction. To a certain extent speed can also be controlled by the rudder. When steering the boat a kitchen rudder behaves rather like a steerable Kort nozzle.
|Thread: Steam pump|
The thing with Westinghouse and similar pumps is that they are essentially a steam engine without a flywheel. Without the momentum of the flywheel to ensure the pump cycles completely your machining and valve timing must be perfect. This is why people get so excited when the things actually work.
A more achievable solution for a novice may be to go for an axle driven pump. If you are constructing a boiler to run a variety of engines the axle driven pump could be powered by a small donkey engine. It doesn't have to be anything fancy - even a single acting oscillating engine will do. While not as impressive in engineering terms as a Westinghouse pump it would be much easier to construct and can work just as well.
|Thread: Bending small copper tube|
What I love about engineering in general is that there is always more than one way of doing things so here a a couple of alternatives -
Don't bother bending the pipe. Keep it straight and use elbows and tee's when you want to turn a corner. These are available as castings or ready made items. Or you could machine/fabricate your own from bar stock.
When using thin walled tube (particularly brass) it has a tendency to collapse if bent through a tight radius. Anneal the pipe, let it cool, then pack it with something that will bend but won't let the pipe collapse. One approach is to plug one end of the pipe, fill it with table salt and plug the other end. The advantage with this method is the salt is easy to remove once the bending is done. However, depending on the internal diameter of the pipe or tube this procedure gets progressively more fiddly as the diameter gets smaller.
For (really) small diameter tube insert a styrene rod that is a close sliding fit. Bend the tube into whatever shape takes your fancy. Remove the styrene rod by burning it out with a blowtorch.
|Thread: Depthing Tool Ideas|
Making your own might be the best way forward since that would allow you to have a tool that meets your exact requirements.
Clickspring has a series of three videos on the subject. Here is the first -
|Thread: Advice required|
Let me see if I understand you correctly... You want to form a radius on the inside and the outside of the end of a tube?
The tool which does this is called a Tube End Forming Cutter. Normally mounted in the tailstock of a lathe or in a turret. Use in hand tools is not recommended by any of the manufacturers.
You may like to take a look at the Severance Tool Industries Inc. website for information and inspiration.
Severance will happily make custom tools to your requirements. Customers outside North America may find their way of doing business a little quaint - they prefer to be contacted by (snail) mail though in deference to those customers who require a quick response they have obtained a fax machine.
For other suppliers just do a Google search for "Tube End Forming Cutter".
|Thread: Why is this guys mini lathe parting off so well?|
Hello and welcome to the forum
Parting off can be the most daunting exercise for a novice on the lathe.
When machining steel once you start cutting you must keep cutting otherwise it work hardens. EN1A-Pb is a great steel to learn with as it is free-cutting though it is not suitable for all applications.
General guidance for parting off -
When parting thicker pieces some people like to take the tool part way in, back out, move the tool to one side, and go in again. This creates a wider groove so swarf and the workpiece are not rubbing on as much of the tool leading to friction and heat build up. Depending on the thickness of the part, the material involved, and the confidence of the operator (or lack thereof) this process may be repeated more than once to complete parting off.
Other things that people do to achieve successful parting off include inverting the parting off tool in the toolholder and running the lathe in reverse. Much depends on the toolholder you have since the cutting point must still be at the centre height of the workpiece. DO NOT try this method if the lathe chuck is threaded onto the spindle!!! Also, may subject an unmodified mini-lathe to unusual stresses since you are now also reversing the forces acting on the carriage - i.e. trying to lift it instead of pressing down. YMMV.
If you are still nervous about parting off (which is perfectly understandable) just use the parting off tool to go part of the way through the workpiece then back the tool out and switch off the lathe. Finish the job with a hacksaw. There is no shame in taking this approach, it just needs a little more elbow grease.
|Thread: Good YouTube videos|
For creativity and some very entertaining videos I have no hesitation in recommending the Engineer BrunS channel on YouTube.
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