Here is a list of all the postings Henry Artist has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can low pressure steam boilers be soft soldered ?|
Up to a working pressure of around 2 bar-g, soft solder is OK. Look at toy steam engines. This method of soldering is still used by Wilesco and there are plenty of toy steam boilers made from very thin brass and soft soldered which are over 100 years old and still in working condition today.
If you are making your own boilers you have to decide on the odds of your boiler running out of water. Commercial steam toys are designed so the burner runs out of fuel before the boiler runs out of water. So long as there is sufficient water in the boiler no harm will come to it regardless of the method used to heat it. Just look at the Wilesco D455.
This is because of the laws of physics. At 2 bar-g water cannot exceed a temperature of 135C. Most soft solders melt at 183C so there is a significant margin of error.
In fact by the time water has reached a temperature of 183C the pressure would be around 10 bar-g and mechanical failure of the soft soldered joint more likely than failure due to melting before you get to that point!
Edited By Henry Artist on 04/05/2017 08:49:36
|Thread: The diesel controversy|
Long, long ago (so the story goes) if a car manufacturer discovered a fault in the design of one of their vehicles which might potentially lead to death or injury they would do a costing exercise which would give two cost figures -
Cost A was how much it would cost to change the design and make new, safer components, possibly alter the production line, and possibly do a recall to retro-fit the new components to all the existing vehicles with the fault.
Cost B was how much they would have to pay out in compensation if they did not fix the fault.
If Cost B was lower than Cost A they would not fix the fault.
Of course, modern vehicle manufacturers will vigorously deny that such scurrilous and morally questionable practices continue today.
Edited By Henry Artist on 03/05/2017 09:19:00
|Thread: Steam plant for a Graham Industries VR1A|
Comments, suggestions and questions are, of course, most welcome but try to keep them on topic.
Now that I know the steam plant works it is time to make the other components - a water tank and a condenser. The condenser seen in the video on Page 1 is just a temporary device that I often use to prevent oily cack and steam spraying on to my work bench.
I have a PMR water tank kit. This is what comes in the box...
I intend to make a slightly different 1/4" x 40tpi bush so I can have a valve on the water tank.
Thank you. I'm glad you are enjoying it.
With the burner intalled beneath the boiler and the boiler connected to the engine we have the basic elements of a functional steam plant ready for a test run.
A Mamod flywheel was fitted to the engine and connected to the line shaft with 2mm nitrile rubber drive band. This works waaay better than the springy metal drive bands. I affixed some Wilesco workshop tools to a board for the test run. So much more interesting to watch an engine driving something...
Edited By Henry Artist on 02/05/2017 20:52:33
|Thread: Young ME's Workshop|
Perhaps plans could be published in Model Engineer magazine for a stirling engine powered gramophone? Such things really did exist and would appeal to the Hipsters out there with vinyl records being all popular again...
Some young people can be very creative and the "maker" movement should not be dismissed out of hand. Showing how the principles of model engineering can be applied to other hobbies can get people interested in engineering in general.
|Thread: will 2mm do?|
I think making an ordinary bicycle would be a fascinating subject for a "build thread".
Are you going to make a standard one or one of those American contraptions with the small wheel at the front?
|Thread: TAPS, spiral or std|
Breaking taps may be more down to technique rather than brand...
Using a slightly larger tapping drill can make a real difference e.g. for M2.5 I would use a 2.10mm - 2.15mm drill in preference to the recommended 2.05mm depending on the material. YMMV.
Using a lubricant like Trefolex can also help.
|Thread: Precise filing|
Without a little more information it is difficult to give a meaningful answer...
What are the dimensions involved?
What is the material?
Can we see a picture?
|Thread: Young ME's Workshop|
P.S. If you want to get young people interested in model engineering going down the live steam route may be more successful than running something on compressed air. There's fire involved and the (albeit remote) possibility that the thing might explode...
"Oh, but that's DANGEROUS!"
Well most machine tools found in a workshop will maim or kill if you give them half a chance...
Just remember not everyone who might have an interest in model engineering lives in a home with a garage... nor have room for a shed. Some people live in apartments and a lot of stairs may be involved.
Stuff to "get you started"...
"Building Simple Model Steam Engines" Books 1 & 2 by Tubal Cain and "Making Simple Model Steam Engines" by Stan Bray contain lots of super helpful "How to" information for novices.
Sooner or later a lathe will be required though you'd be amazed how far you can get before you feel the need to invest in one. A mini-lathe (e.g. C3, CJ18, etc.) is ideal. If you do not have the room for a mini-lathe something smaller like a Sieg C0, Unimat 3, Taig, etc. will do just fine. ALL of the designs in Stan Bray's book can be made with a drill press and a Sieg C0.
So how much does it cost to set up a workshop? Without a lathe you can do it for around £500 or less at today's (2017) prices even if you had to buy everything new. With a lathe £1000 - £1500 is a realistic estimate. But of course very few people set up a complete workshop all in one go. Workshops grow and evolve over time which helps to spread the cost.
The above steam engine was constructed from the Opitec 420 kit (with a few modifications). The Opitec 420 can be built with hand tools and a drill press, no lathe is required. It is designed to be built by schoolchildren.
|Thread: Help a noob|
Something else to think about...
Most budget hobby lathes (including the C3/CJ18A, etc.) turn too fast for thread cutting even on their lowest speeds. To cut threads many owners find it easier to use taps and dies held in the tailstock and turn the chuck or workpiece by hand with the power off.
Of course there is always more than one way of doing things and half the fun of learning to use a new machine is finding which methods work best for you.
Most of the parts I make on my C0 are less than 25mm diameter and less than 50mm long. I do not think the lack of auto-feed is a handicap. ArcEuroTrade do sell an auto-feed for the C0 but I have never felt the need to use it.
If you do choose to buy a C0 I would recommend you buy the tailstock adapter sold by Arc to solve any tailstock alignment issues you may encounter.
It is an excellent little lathe for hobbyist use. Because it is so small it is very rigid and I get a really good finish on the parts I machine with it. For the money, it is surprisingly accurate. However, if you intend to use a small lathe to earn a living you may like to consider something more "up-market" like a Cowells, Taig or Sherline.
Proxxon also make very small lathes but I have never seen a review from an owner...
I have a Sieg C0 and it's an absolute joy to use especially when making small parts in brass, aluminium and mild steel. I added an Emco QCTP which allows me to use 8mm indexable tools. For some jobs it is quicker and easier to use than my C3.
Like any tool if you can work within its limitations you will be happy. Trying to go beyond the limits of a machine leads to frustration so think carefully about what you want to achieve.
|Thread: Cutting Speed Table|
Using a lathe or a milling machine is a bit like making love. Best results are obtained if you pay attention to the feedback.
|Thread: How (not) to machine a cylinder|
Are the glasses filled with beer or vodka?
|Thread: O-Gauge first loco suggestions|
If you want something like a Victorian steam toy you could always build a Birmingham Dribbler - no need for any track!
Meths (or if you don't mind the smell, Esbit) would be safer than paraffin and simpler than gas.
32mm track is cheaper than 45mm track to buy new though you stand a better chance of finding second-hand LGB track on eBay.
You may like to look at Mamod locomotives for inspiration though, as I said earlier, a Kraftlok would be the easiest to build.
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