Here is a list of all the postings Henry Artist has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Heavy metal|
A Geiger counter might be useful...
They're not cheap to buy though quartz fiber dosimeters can be obtained for a reasonable sum.
If it turns out to be a ferrous metal you could do a Spark Test. Section 7.4 of "The Model Engineer's Handbook" by Tubal Cain has the details for this.
The next test would be to determine the specific weight and density of the material. For this you need to know the weight (easy enough to determine) and the volume it occupies. To calculate the volume either measure it or immerse it in a liquid and see what volume it displaces. Then it's just a matter of looking up the density of the material you have.
If it happens to burst into flames when immersed in water then there's a good chance it was a bar of sodium...
|Thread: Has anybody built Beng's Danni Steam engine.|
Not all solder pastes are the same.
The solder paste I use for silver soldering has a melting point of 630C. The solder paste I use for soft soldering melts at 183C. Both are supplied by Bengs Modellbau and are better than the solder paste sold for electrical repairs.
I use different sizes of gas torch depending on the join I am making. For model engineering gas torches are better than soldering irons.
Further information on solder pastes can be obtained from Felder GmbH.
|Thread: Wilesco D100 E|
Modifications include - different chimney, new axles and hub caps, tyres, pressure gauge with syphon, steam valve and displacement lubricator. Adding a Bix gas burner has definitely improved performance especially when running outdoors.
It will now happily trundle along at a scale speed on about 15 - 20psi. It is one of my favourite steam toys and always a pleasure to run.
The figures are indeed from the Dr Who series. They are approximately 1/16th scale and are not expensive.
I have seen other Wilesco engines where the modifications have been taken much further - even to the point of having something that looks like a scale model of a real traction engine rather than a steam toy.
Gel fuel can be obtained from catering suppliers. It burns with no smell and does not produce noxious fumes as it is intended for heating food. You still need to operate your engine in a well ventilated room though. Open a door or window to the outside world.
Wilesco's range of steam toys are the most sophisticated made today and represent good value for money. I have no doubt that you will soon be looking to add to your collection. How about the D18? Or if you like constructing things, the D415?
It is very easy to modify Wilesco steam toys. Here are some pictures of a D415 I modified.
In the pictures it is running on gel fuel though now it has a Bix gas burner system which gives a longer run time and is controllable.
Congratulations on your first steam engine. I am sure you will soon have more!
The D100E kit is an excellent introduction to toy steam engines and simple electrical circuits. I'm sure you'll have lots of fun.
As an alternative to the smelly (and expensive) Wilesco fuel tablets many people prefer to use gel fuel (also known as Sterno, chafing fuel, etc). Just line the burner tray with aluminium foil first. Putting hot water in the boiler will increase the run time.
|Thread: Has anybody built Beng's Danni Steam engine.|
As well as low temperature solder paste I also use silver solder paste (55% silver content) for very small and neat brazed joints. I get my silver solder paste from Bengs Modellbau. It's not cheap but a little goes a long way. There are some helpful videos on the Bengs website.
It is a product that is commonly used by jewellers so you might like to check out the companies that supply the jewellery trade in your own country.
|Thread: Cutting brass tube|
Extruded aluminium mitre box and razor saw work for me.
OK so the picture shows a piece of brass angle being cut but the principle is the same.
What a splendid model! Congratulations Neil.
Moonwalker 1 (8EL#203) was an extremely successful mission. Originally intended to operate for 3 lunar days it actually operated for 11 lunar days. It still has value today. Though the mission ended in 1971 it was "rediscovered" in 2010 and found to be the brightest reflector on the moon thus allowing very accurate laser range-finding of Earth - Moon distance.
Will you make a model of the Luna 17 lander?
There are a number of things to consider with meths (spirit) burners.
1) The size of the flame is directly proportional to the size (diameter) of the wick. Bigger wick = bigger flame. Cotton wick material is available in a huge variety of diameters from sellers of oil lamps. But you MUST extinguish the flame before all the fuel is used up otherwise the wick will burn away and need replacing. Fireproof wicks can be made from glassfibre rope or #400 stainless steel mesh. The wick should not be packed too tightly into the burner tube as this will impede capillary action preventing enough fuel being drawn up to burn.
2) The fuel in the tank (which requires a vent hole) must be no higher than the top of the burner tubes. (Unless it's a "chicken feed" burner.) Overfilling a fuel tank is a Viking funeral waiting to happen...
3) Meths burners produce soot. Lots and lots of soot.
4) With the wick type meths burner the flame is very susceptible to being blown around by even the slightest breeze. This is not too big a problem for those who run stationary engines indoors but can be for running a mobile steam engine outdoors.
Aside from historical authenticity there is no reason to use a meths burner when gas burner systems, and the parts for them, are readily available. The advantages of gas are that the flame does not get blown around by a breeze and so goes where it is needed - to heat the boiler. Also, when correctly set up the burner produces no soot and the flame is controllable. Contact Phil at Forest Classics to discuss your requirements - **LINK**
|Thread: Airbrush connections?|
RDG Tools sell a range of airbrush adaptors. **LINK**
|Thread: What Lathe Sould I Buy?|
It may be better for you to buy a mini-lathe from a reputable UK dealer for a few hundred pounds and work on renewing/improving your machining skills before you invest several thousand pounds in an industrial lathe. You should have little difficulty in selling the mini-lathe when you are ready to upgrade your workshop.
Your biggest expense may not be the lathe itself but everything else that goes with it to actually make things. Accessories for mini-lathes are much cheaper than those for larger machines.
Take some time to consider what are likely to be the largest and smallest diameters you might like to turn and which materials you will be working with. This will help you to decide which lathe to go for first.
|Thread: boiler for Stuart Turner 10H|
You may find it beneficial to read "Model Boilers And Boilermaking" by K N Harris.
"The Model Engineer's Handbook" by Tubal Cain also contains some very useful information on boilermaking and steam production calculations.
What you choose to do in the privacy of your own home is up to you but in most countries there are rules regarding the public exhibition and running of (model) steam engines. Have a word with your local Model Engineering Society.
If this is your first attempt at making a boiler you may prefer to go for a kit you can make yourself. All of the calculations are done for you and the correct materials included. PM Research make two boiler kits. GLR Kennions do a boiler kit too that can be gas or coal fired. Also, in UK some companies that supply ready made boilers for model steam will supply them as a kit of parts if you ask nicely.
|Thread: Bench top mill|
I have a Sieg SX1LP which I purchased from ArcEuroTrade. It is sufficient for my modest needs as I only build small steam engine models as a hobby.
|Thread: Live steam Globe valves|
I have found the valves supplied by GLR Kennions to be very good quality. **LINK**
Sometimes, after a lot of use there can be a tiny leak at the valve stem but it is a simple matter to replace the graphite string packing. You may also like to experiment with O rings.
Alternatively, you may want to try the valves sold by Bengs Modellbau. **LINK**
They are made by Winfried Niggel and are rated to 6 bar.
|Thread: Shop vac recommendations please|
I have a Numatic James. Great for sucking up swarf from my lathes and milling machine. Also excellent for domestic cleaning duties too.
|Thread: Displacement Lubricator with just one pipe!|
A little bit more information would be helpful.
Is the locomotive a commercial model or scratch-built?
What gauge is it?
Normally a displacement lubricator is connected to the steam pipe leading to the cylinders.
One pipe connecting a displacement lubricator to the steam line is not uncommon. Such an arrangement exists on my Maxitrak Allchin. It can also be found with "dead end" lubricators sold by Stuart, PMR, Bengs Modellbau, etc.
|Thread: Why are my tools too high?|
Yes, a quick change tool post (QCTP) can make your life much, much easier.
|Thread: displacement lubricator|
Good to hear you have your engine running happily now. You may like to read this article - **LINK**
As you have no doubt realised a Displacement Lubricator is so called because steam condenses in it and as oil floats on water it displaces the oil forcing it into the steam line and thus it is carried to the engine. But that's not the only thing that is going on.
Can you say "water hammer"?
The pressure in the steam line (the pipe that goes from the boiler to the engine) is not constant. No sir, it is not. While the engine is running it fluctuates slightly. As a steam port opens and the piston begins moving into the cylinder the pressure momentarily drops. When the steam port closes a pressure wave travels back up the steam line (at the speed of sound for the medium through which it is travelling). Go look up "water hammer" for more information.
This is why it is a good idea to locate a displacement lubricator as close to the engine as possible where the effect is greatest.
|Thread: Manged to pull the threads on some 2.5mm holes - tapping Aluminium|
Can you use a bigger fastener? The tapping hole for M3 is 2.50mm.
Drill out the hole much, much bigger, tap it and fit a plug. Then try again to tap M2.5.
Start making the part again from the beginning.
|Thread: Can low pressure steam boilers be soft soldered ?|
You should try building one some time. Not that difficult and loads of fun!
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