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Member postings for Willliam Powell

Here is a list of all the postings Willliam Powell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: D1-3 spindle nose adaptor
14/03/2017 16:45:02

17192472_10208162101278093_4994420313139464473_o.jpg17190486_10208187861922093_3857498094251109166_n.jpgCourtesy of Murray (Muzzer), I have the spindle specs I needed to make this thing right. Thank you sir!

my inferred cam position was off by 3 degrees radially and 0.070" axially. It worked anyway, but did not feel right, and as I posted above, I had to extend the pins one turn.

I have redone my layout and its back on the platen in the lathe. (I don't have a mill).

As usual, the photos are not in order....

17156022_10208187861722088_207154127046895412_n.jpg

Thread: Nut & Bolt Sizes.
13/03/2017 21:21:33

NS is a U.S. 60 degree National Standard

UNC is unified national coarse

UNF is nified national fine

UNEF is unified national extra fine

All of these have been hashed out by the US SAE and ASME to sort out the limits and standards

Thread: D1-3 spindle nose adaptor
12/03/2017 16:19:52

17158895_10208171027381240_967793227001327028_o.jpg

12/03/2017 16:17:54

Well, I got excited and decided to take a whack at cam placement by inference. by using a set of purchased cams, (Whew - expensive), and fiddling around with them on the backing plate I bought, I got some preliminary numbers and decided to punch out the test fixture. I'm not entirely sure about my angular placement, but it's close.

I misestimated the engagement depth, but cheated it by extending the pins by one turn out from the gaging line. It worked.

I'm still hoping for real dimensions before I start making chips on the spindle. I could afford scrapping the test fixture, as it was a piece of fall off from my supplier, and I paid a couple of dollars for it.

Thread: Precise angles with the lathe compound
12/03/2017 16:01:16
Posted by richardandtracy on 12/03/2017 15:30:46:

Silly question:

Apart from Morse Tapers, what needs that level of precision? In my 30 odd year career as a designer I've never found anything where I've not been able to redesign it so +/-1 degree isn't adequate. I've often felt some vague sense I'm missing a whole heap of precision as a result, and should extend my range of experience. Hence my enquiry.

Regards

Richard.

My current project is a D1-3 spindle upgrade. The register taper is 7degrees 7&1/2 minutes. It's a pretty sticky dimension, right down to checking it with spotting ink and stoning it to round. (My lathe bearings are tapers in class 3, and only get me to about 0.0005" egged).

Another upcoming is as you note, a Morse taper. This one is an accessory that cuts square holes. It mounts in the tailstock. I'll need it for making the cams for my chuck mounting spud.

In the future I will have to make some special B&S taper centers for my dividing head.

In the past I used to service the hob spindle bearings on G&E gear hobbers fairly often. Usually the owner ran them without keeping them in order, so the bronze taper was thrashed. It's easier to set up the compound to spec than to set up the spindle and dial in off of it.

All of this assumes that the headstock is in alignment with the lathe bed of course.

Thread: Lathe line boring
12/03/2017 15:33:07

All good thoughts above.

A different tactic might be to use a piece of DOM tubing, say 1" OD with a half inch bore. Counterdrill the ends and install threaded plugs back about 3/4 inch. Pack the bore with lead shot.. This allows you to use large centered ends whic place the bar further up on your live center, reducing leverage on it. The cutter head is separate, and retains the high speed steel square in a slot milled in the face. This allows you to get the top surface of the bit at the center line. A little shallow hole in the bar, and a dog point set screw hold the cutter head in place.

You don't lose much stiffness in using the DOM tube over solid, and the lead shot makes the bar very dead to vibration. That's how I made my last one.

Thread: Springy steel
11/03/2017 23:55:39

Usually spring steel is plain carbon steel with between 0.5% and 0.95% carbon. It's readily available here, but you might pay more to ship it across the pond than it's worth.

Thread: Nut & Bolt Sizes.
11/03/2017 23:45:40

9.5 is just about 3/8 inch if that helps.

Thread: Precise angles with the lathe compound
11/03/2017 19:50:32

I'm sure the photos will not be in the proper order.16195189_10207823110443534_5638245230362332824_n.jpg

Dial in a parallel. I have a box cross slide with a pair of holes in it to mount a small platen. I just clamp a parallel on it.

16265901_10207823110403533_3334929384816575214_n.jpg

Set up the sine bar.

16142484_10207823110483535_1185658639445965543_n.jpg

Dial in the compound.

16996192_10208121407860783_5077897862064824879_n.jpg

Thread: Shaper tool
11/03/2017 19:44:20

Drat, the photos are not in order...

11/03/2017 18:53:14

16722534_10207967379050159_7207520626601265285_o.jpg16602457_10207949004790814_1166956344352118562_o.jpg16487844_10207923207985910_2830058546056383995_o.jpg16473218_10207924747504397_5505310507163748186_n.jpgI always wanted one of these, so I pulled out a piece of 4140A, and put it through the shaper.

16473194_10207889022451293_3416312607186222669_n.jpg

Thread: The smallest one ever???
11/03/2017 18:08:23

Oh my how I would love to have a little planer like that in my shop. Such things don't really show up in the western U.S.

That is worthy of some loving care.

Thread: D1-3 spindle nose adaptor
11/03/2017 18:04:50

Well thank you.

I set up the dummy part which will end up being the milling fixture, and have been doing some trial layout and inferences about the position of the cams. I bought a set of cams from MSC, but will make the second set.

more photos to come as I get them transferred to the gonkulator.

10/03/2017 20:02:02

17191870_10208141685047700_7650288234243121325_o.jpg17203020_10208132477737523_1780570570220283929_n.jpg16716344_10208016258352111_290591600877917245_o.jpgOk, Pix's.

16798014_10208014520748672_119285955852670519_o.jpg

Thread: Hello from the west coast of North America
10/03/2017 19:59:29

I spent 25 years in the trade, mostly in job shops, a bit in manufacturing and a brief stint in a testing laboratory. Right now, I'm semi retired and hobby mining for gold.

The current focus at home is to bring the mostly junkyard shop up to some level of usefulness. All the machines are relics that came as basket cases.

When I get myself fully retired to tinkering, I aspire to build a long case clock, and a small condensing steam engine (5 HP or so).

Meanwhile, it's fun in the shop.

Thread: Economy Hit & Miss Engine Build.
10/03/2017 19:30:40

Enjoying watching the build. Nicely done..

Thread: Why do they do that,
10/03/2017 19:04:32

Yep, it's awful.

I have had the pleasure of running a Monarch DS&G several years back, and aside from having to acquire new reflexes, it was a delight. No burning bits landing on my left hand....

Thread: Has the quality of HSS changed over the years?
10/03/2017 18:58:35

I find hi speed from the Far East to be inconsistent at best. It helps if you only purchase material that has a specification on it, ie 'M2' or 'T15'. Branded tool bits are good too. Personally, I like Chicago Latrobe, V.R. Wesson, and Cleveland myself, but I'm just an old Yank. I have a couple of pieces made by Eclipse, and they are very good, but not so available over here.

Thread: D1-3 spindle nose adaptor
10/03/2017 18:01:03

Sorry to dredge up the dark past here. I joined this site specifically for this post. Hopefully you don't mind helping out an old Yank.

I have a 1948 Clausing 111, and I despise the threaded spindle nose. Never liked them. This lathe had been relegated to being used for winding coil springs. She was tired and busted up. fortunately the castings were not in bad shape, and the bed cleaned up with a light stoning and mild scrape. The spindle is another matter, as it is bent a little, and the nose threads are worn. Compounding this is the fact that I made a mistake when I was getting this thing working in the first place, and faled to note that the spindle thread was Whitworth, and threaded my backing plates 60 degree USS. Live and learn... Weighing options, I decided that a new spindle with a more modern design would fit the situation best, as I could have reverse in addition to leaving clapping chucks behind.

I'm at the point where I need to get a precise location for the cams, both axially and radially. I feel like I can perhaps infer the location, but I'd rather be certain. I have made up a 'dummy' which will be used for fixing chucks to the table on my shaper, and the spindle itself is ready for radial drilling.

I will have to learn how to attach images, as a picture is worth..................

Thank you in advance,

Will

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