Here is a list of all the postings ChrisB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol|
The Knipex parallel jaw pliers are excellent. Rest assured you will not break them with what ever force your hands may apply to them. Besides, if you need to lock them just put a cable tie at the handles and you're done. That piece of aluminium in those jaws will not move. As for clecos, there are lots of different types, some are threaded so you got a positive grip.
|Thread: Making a knurled thumb wheel|
To get financial gain from youtube you need thousands of subscribers and even more views, so I doubt Stevie was going to gain anything (even if he did, it's none of my business) I hate it when people generalise, there are loads of good information on Youtube (yes that's the correct way to spell it - I do wonder why onevwould call it YuToob!)
It's a most helpful way to explain oneself on a platform such as our forum, Jason uses it often in his explanations, I do sometimes, what's so bad about it?
Yeah, I said paper towel not a whole roll, there something called common sense, now if everyone could use it!
Nice work Stevie, not necessarily the way I'd go round it but still good job. As for the above comments regarding the polishing cloth, I would do the same as you did, but with a paper towel.
|Thread: What odd grease?|
The brownish grey colour you mention makes me think of the semi fluid grease we use on rotary gearboxes at work : Rocol aerospec 100 semi-fluid **LINK** Probably not the same material as it's quite expensive, but maybe a similar composition.
Edited By ChrisB on 29/04/2021 20:58:54
|Thread: Cutting Knurling tool.|
Thanks for all the replies, thanks for the links Tony. The first link is intetesting, not overly complicated ( like the second link!)
The ones I found were push type knurlers, could not find any cut type.
The next best option would be as mentioned by Howard, but I would prefer a cut type as having used one ages ago I remember the quality was near perfect and cut effortlessly.
I have an upcoming job which will need quite a lot of knurling. I have a simple push type knurler which is okish for a one off job, but I'm concerned that my WM280 will not like knurling a couple of meters worth of mild steel. Also the knurl quality is so and so unless I push really hard.
I could get a cut knurler such as Quick or Zeus and the likes, but after I checked the prices almost fell off the chair, cannot justfy that price. So I wondered if I could build something myself without breaking the bank. I found a thread where the late John Stevenson showed his home built cut knurler but unfortunately I could not find any details.
Has anyone built such a tool ?
|Thread: Machining titanium.|
At work we often use grade 5 titanium for aircraft parts. Mostly drilling and cutting operations and some turning.
Drilling can be done with hss bits, but be careful...do not creep to the final size using small increments. Drill a pilot hole to clear the next drill's point and then go to final size using coolant. I find that if I use small incremental steps to drill, the drill tip edges will overheat and go blunt immediately. Use a new sharp drill !
As for turning, the sharper the tip the better, I have machined Ti with TNMG inserts tho, which don't have the sharpest geometry with good results.
Cutting it with a band saw is the way to go, tried with grinder and thin cut off discs, eats up the discs in seconds, overheats and gets harder.
As for fire hazard, I have never seen a titanium fire in 20years. Just control the ammount of thin swarf and keep the workarea clear and you'll be safe.
|Thread: Lathe DRO|
True and also with the collet chuck, working close to the chuck I have to extend most of the topslide.
And the issue with saddle travel would have been easy to fix at production level, the apron gearbox casting is already shaped quarter round to clear the feed shaft, they just needed to add 1/8" more to clear the clutch.
I had no intention of removing the apron, so I turned down the clutch just enough to get some clearance.
You just got me my next project Jason!
Some time back I got myself a lathe collet chuck, prepared a piece of steel for the backplate...bolted the blank backplate to the spindle and proceeded with the machining. Little did I know that the tool post would not reach the spindle! I managed, but it was one of those simple jobs turning into a nightmare.
Spent the morning fiddling with the lathe, and result! I was wrong about the WM280 tailstock reach
How come Jason! Mine won't go any further as the saddle will contact the feed shaft clutch.
This the closest the tailstock will ever come to the chuck on a WM280 lathe. Adding a dro to the right of the cross slide will only make it worse. You could mount the dro to the left, but that will expose the scales to oil, swarf and possibly impact damage.
Mounting under the cross slide as Jason suggested will avoid all those issues and tailstock reach will be unchanged.
Had a look at the compound slide this morning and I can confirm what Jason says, that's the best place to install the read head. As to do the installation internally in the compound, it is impossible with off the shelf read heads.
That's why it's better to have the DRO installed under the crosslide if possible, but that depends on what type of read out you have, my guess is it will only work out with magnetic type due to their small size.
Hi Jason, that's my DRO build thread. Didn't bother with the compound as I don't really use it that much, and to be honest I was even contemplating removing it altogether and replacing it with a solid tool post. True that the saddle traverse is a bit coarse, but using the DRO I manage to control my cuts without any major issues.
As for installing a dro to the compound on a WM280 internally, that would be very difficult, next to impossible I would say. First of all only magnetic types may fit and you have to have a very small read head. I built my own to very small dimensions and managed to fit one inside the crosslide, but the compound is even more restricted in space.
|Thread: Distorted ship's hull steel panels|
If I recall correctly I had seen an episode of Extreme engineering about the construction of a US carrier where the hull was dressed with sledgehammers.
|Thread: Anodising and Passivating|
At work (aircraft MRO) we use chromic acid to protect aluminium alloys, it gives a golden colour to the metal and the process is the base for corrosion protection. Anodizing on it's own is not sufficient. The process is normally followed with etchprimer and top coat. The only areas which are exposed are made from clad aluminium alloy.
For steel parts we send them to the playing shop for cadmium plating which also gives the metal a golden matt colour. We used to repair damaged areas with brush type plating, but the material is now banned.
|Thread: Rocketronics Electronic Lead Screw|
That would be a good option Jason. That will give me two modes of operation, either in manual control with automatic feed as the lathe came originally, and ELS control via the leadscrew.
Reading through the manual, there is an input for "X" and "Z" axes backlash, so the ELS will compensate for this during radius turning.
Hadn't thought of the gearbox and feed shaft, probably could work if left on the A selector Jason, but not being directly driven backlash would be a problem for threading I think. As for manual control, reading through the manual, it can be manually controlled and the handles should stay.
My lathe is a WM280v. I think the product is aimed at hobby machines which might be bigger or smaller than mine without a gearbox.
Yes the link is for the controller correct, but they have kits with motors to drive both axes **LINK**
The website is both in english and german (it's translated by default on my pc tho) and I do believe they have support as I have asked them some questions, particularly if the system is adaptable to an imperial leadscrew lathe, which I'm told it is. He also said currently the system works in metric but they are working to include inches, so I guess it is still in development,
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