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Member postings for ChrisB

Here is a list of all the postings ChrisB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Slitting Saw - which one?
24/08/2019 15:55:59

Received three solid carbide slitting saws I bid on last week. A bargain for £15.

Made a 16mm arbor for the 63mm saw and tested the saw on the bolt I want to cut. Set the machine on low gear at 150rpm feeding slowly at roughly 0.25mm/sec with a 2mm depth of cut. All went well cutter cuts nicely and all teeth were still there after the test cuts.

videocapture_20190824-161506.jpg

Thread: Garmin sat nav
22/08/2019 18:10:55

I have a garmin satnav and a mobile satnav app on my phone - Navigon by garmin. Much prefer the app on my phone - it's got all the functions of the dedicated satnav traffic, speed cameras etc. and one less thing to carry around.

Thread: Bandsaw blades
21/08/2019 19:04:19
Posted by John Pace on 21/08/2019 18:52:10:

Posted by ChrisB 21/08/2019 17:59:22
I doubt you'll manage to weld it with mig, you could try - nothing lost.

Back in 2010 published in MEW 166 i wrote and article on Mig welding
bandsaw blades, i have not bought a made blade for 20 + years just make
them from a reel of blading.
They last so long that i need sometimes to resharpen them.

John

I'm sure it's possible to mig weld the blade (as you confirmed John). I was replying to Bill's question, and as he stated he never ever welded before, I had my doubts if he'd be successful on a thin blade as a first try.

Edited By ChrisB on 21/08/2019 19:04:47

Thread: GMT automatic boring head
21/08/2019 18:43:49

Are lathe and mill boring bars interchangeable? I thought the bars for the boring head had to have the cutting edge aligned to the centre line of the head for clearance etc. On the lathe you can adjust the boring bar to centre height but not sure that can be done on a boring head...but I could be mistaken. If that's not the case I can get a lathe boring bar shorten it and turn it to 14mm (if I don't find any)

Going through the manual it came with there are two versions of these boring heads, metric and imperial, the metric one (which I have ) comes with a 14mm tool shank Dia, the imperial is 1/2".

21/08/2019 18:18:34
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 21/08/2019 18:03:35:
Posted by ChrisB on 21/08/2019 16:06:03:

[ ... ]

The strange thing is the boring bar holes - they are 14.00mm in diameter (, what size is that? Closest imperial size is 1/2" ...

.

With the greatest respect to your measuring skills, Chris:

Are you absolutely sure that the holes are 14.00mm diameter ?

The reason I ask is that 14.2875mm is a 'reasonably convenient' 9/16"

MichaelG.

It's Ok Michael, to be sure I used a vernier - it's 14.00mm.

The box also has a boring bar which takes HSS bits, the shank on this is 14mm (I think it's part of the original tooling) The rest of the boring bars are 1/2"

Thread: Bandsaw blades
21/08/2019 17:59:22

I doubt you'll manage to weld it with mig, you could try - nothing lost. If you have brazing equipment it will be a better bet I think.

I got may blades from Tuff saws **LINK** you can get them custom ordered to size.

Chris

Thread: GMT automatic boring head
21/08/2019 16:49:45
Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 21/08/2019 16:29:55:

I googled Gamet and found it was an Indian based company. I did this when I saw a bargain chuck bearing the name. So now I am confused, is it an Indian supplier or European company? Or are there two separate companies with the same name?

Andrew.

Who knows! The tag on the head says made in France for Gamet Colchester, and the manual it comes with says Gamet products LTD Hythe Colchester Essex England (printed at the Blackfriars press Ltd Leicester, England).

So I doubt it's made in India, but it could be that it was taken over more recently.

Still confused about the 14mm boring bars, it's an annoying dimension! Might be another project for building my own...

21/08/2019 16:06:03

Long wait over, almost forgot about it till the postman knocked on the door this morning!

Looks mostly complete, maybe missing a set screw for the gibs adjustment.

The strange thing is the boring bar holes - they are 14.00mm in diameter (, what size is that? Closest imperial size is 1/2", and the boring bars it came with are 1/2" but they fit loose (there is an adaptor sleeve) Are 14mm bars common?

Also the boring bars it came with are branded "Boremasters of Kenilworth LTD" "Spacemakers tool no..." must be an old defunct company as I found no hits on google

Thread: Metal Cutting Power Saw
21/08/2019 09:45:43
Posted by Ron Laden on 21/08/2019 09:15:55:
The only thing I have found is when cutting the blade has a slight bump once every full revolution of the blade, dont know why but apart from that it cuts fine.

That's normal, it's the weld to join the ends of the blade. Have a look at the blade and see if there's any extra material which maybe was not fully ground off.

Thread: my knowledge of steel needs improving
20/08/2019 19:25:27

More material for you! :**LINK**

Thread: Wasp trap - suggestions please
20/08/2019 08:18:35

Speaking about wasps, any idea what this winged insect is? Was enjoying some coffee on the terrace this morning when this 3cm wasp like insect came buzzing around...scared the ..... out of me to be honest. It's about double the size of any wasp or bee I've ever seen! Can't believe I took a photo....ok it's zoomed in, I chickened!

20190820_090805.jpg

Thread: Grinding your own lathe cutters
18/08/2019 17:03:15

I started off with HSS, could not get proper results with it and rather than turning I spent more time grinding - which was frustrating. So I quickly turned to carbide inserts. Most probable reason for my bad experience with HSS is that the material I use for turning is of ''unknown'' origin, ( read recycled bolts etc) so I could be turning HT steel, stainless etc without any idea of what the speeds and feeds should be.

Using carbide changed all that, I mostly use tnmg inserts which I see as economical (having 6 useable tips). My time at the workshop immediately became more enjoyable and less frustrating. I also got some used cbn inserts (same shape) which give mirror finish at high revs even with shallow cuts (it's more burnishing than cutting I think)

I had read forums (on here as well) telling beginners to only use hss and learn how to grind tools, and to read books etc. To some extent I agree with that, but I think that sometimes it's better to do what you feel comfortable with and learn as you go, rather than getting bored and then loose interest.

My 2cents worth as a beginner.

Thread: Digital inclinometers
18/08/2019 12:10:34

Thanks gents for the feedback, much appreciated. Seems like there are different types of Wixeys regarding batteries.

The one I found on ebay (From M-dro) uses a single AAA battery **LINK** Probably it's a later model.

18/08/2019 10:07:11

Hi John, I was trying to explaining to ndiy what I meant by my original post. The Wixey looks like it's tried and tested, if the batteries used are AAAs than it's not a big issue, I'll use rechargeables. Read your thread, it looks accurate enough for my uses.

Michael, most of the inclinometers I've seen are listed ±0.2° accuracy. The Wixey is also listed as ±0.2° accuracy but as John mentioned in his thread he got better results. The one I linked probably will be less user friendly given it's got more functions.

Anyway we're splitting hairs now! As long as the readings are not off by a half degree I'll be fine. Thanks. Chris

18/08/2019 09:10:02
Posted by not done it yet on 18/08/2019 08:32:55:

If your eye is good enough for non-critical settings, then an instrument should do just as well (or better) for non-critical settings, too! I think you need to distinguish between non-critical and precision. They are not the same.

You're right I need to rephrase. What I mean by non-critical is, for example I'm aiming for 45 deg, but does not matter if its 50deg. I could use a protractor and get closer but I'd still be in my ''non-critical'' standard.

For critical, I would need something more precise, say an inclinometer.

For precision I would need gauge blocks and a sine bar - but that is out of my scope for what I do.

Probably my terminology is still incorrect but at least I hope this explains the mindset to my original post.

18/08/2019 08:55:37

I thought about the phone app, but it's a bit awkward to work with (and I do have a tendency to let things slip out of my hands dont know)

Wixey looks similar to the rest I've seen, but better if you have used it and happy with it!

Most of the inclinometers I saw ( the £30 range ) have the same functions, then I found this: **LINK** It looks interesting with two axes and what appears to be better resolution and accuracy.

18/08/2019 07:34:09

I have not yet really needed one, but I had occasions where I had to work around or guess the angle (where the angle was not critical)

Are they any good for non precision work? I don't have slip gauges and a sine bar (yet) so an inclinometer seems like a low cost solution. I was wondering what your opinions of these (mostly cheap) instruments are?

Edited By ChrisB on 18/08/2019 07:35:26

Thread: Metal Cutting Power Saw
17/08/2019 21:32:06

I found the 8/12 vari-tooth blades a good allrounder. Thinnest I cut is 2mm square section and at the same time makes short work of 60mm round bar. Much better than the 14tpi blade the bandsaw came with. Coolant of course helps.

17/08/2019 18:06:51

If I'm not mistaken the pulleys on the femi are covered with some type of rubber which may get damaged if the blade slips etc. That's the main reason they are used dry I think.

That was a concern I had when I purchased mine, so I got one with cast iron pulleys so I can use oil without problems.

Thread: HONING OF HOLES
16/08/2019 08:29:56

As far as I recall, when a large engine is overhauled, after a rebore the next process is the vertical honing machine, which gets the bore dimension to the desired size and with the correct crosshatch pattern. The 3 legged spring hone maybe will be sufficient to get the crosshatch pattern on the cylinderwall again on a polished bore, but think it will be difficult to maintain a parallel bore and work up to a specified dimension. For sure it will be very time consuming.

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