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Member postings for Steve Crow

Here is a list of all the postings Steve Crow has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Cosworth V8 1:12 scale
01/11/2020 15:48:00

I made some endplates from 1/8” mild steel flat bar. These hold flanged bearings for the crankshaft, 4mm at the gearbox end and 3mm at the cam-drive end. There is raised boss on the back of both which are a snug fit into the crankshaft bore to keep thing nice and true.


The one on the left will house the flywheel and the one on the right, the cam gear train.


The sump and block were drilled and tapped 12BA to secure the endplates and everything was assembled.





01/11/2020 15:29:55

The next job was to remove some metal from the inside of the sump and the block to provide clearance for the con rods.

Here is the block, ready to be milled. Note the miniature brass V-blocks – very handy things. You can see they are numbered. This is to ensure repeatability when using them with a 4-jaw.


And here they are completed. The block now weighs 60g. The initial square blank weighed 370g. That might not sound a lot of swarf to you guys with big-boy’s lathes, but it made a mess of the kitchen table with my Sherline.


More soon.

01/11/2020 14:46:01

A few months ago, I decided to have a go at making a 1:12 scale Cosworth V8 DFV Formula 1 engine.

It will be a 2-stroke running on air (or CO2?) with a bore of 7.2mm and a stroke of 5mm.

I want to share my progress so far as I’m sure I will need some advice.

After making the drawings, the first thing I did was make card models of the main components.



This helps me visualise things and see if any screws interfere with each other etc.



The block started life as 1” square mild steel bar.



I sawed of a piece about 3” long and this was clocked in the 4 jaw and eccentric bosses, on the crank centre line, were turned at both ends. This gave me an accurate way of holding it while boring out the cylinders and milling the block to shape. In the picture below, the milling is part done.



The block, milled to shape. The bores are a bit rough but true. They will have brass liners anyway.



The block was drilled and tapped and the sump blank bolted to it.



The whole assembly was then drilled and bored out as one piece and the bosses removed.



More to follow….


Edited By Steve Crow on 01/11/2020 14:47:22

Edited By Steve Crow on 01/11/2020 14:48:04

Edited By Steve Crow on 01/11/2020 14:52:27

Thread: Bending small copper tube
29/10/2020 16:46:12

Thank you all for responding.

It looks like the Dubro tool is out of the question. The radius is ok but I need to make bends close together.

I really like Glyn's simple bender but I am also Intrigued by Geoff's.

I don't get MEW but would like access to the plans and article. If I subscribe to a digital edition, will I get this and previous articles as part of the digital archive?

Many thanks


26/10/2020 19:35:44

Thank you Bill, that sounds just about right for me scaled up.

By cl, I meant centre line radius ie. mid point. I should have been clearer.


26/10/2020 17:49:56

I need to bend some 5/32 or 4mm copper tube to quite tight cl radius, around 10mm.

Checking past forum posts, the DuBro tube bender seems to be recommended.

Can any one tell me the minimum radius achievable with this tool? I can't find that information on the web.



Thread: What is the reason why we may lock y axis on Sherline mill?
10/09/2020 18:19:44

Chris, the first thing I did when I got my Sherline mill was to make brass locks with nice handles for x and y axis.

I made x,y, tailstock and depth-stop locks for the lathe when I got that a few years before.

They work so much better than the original set up and really improve work flow.

I also made brass handles for all dials etc. Not really necessary but look and feel superior to plastic.

I'll take some photos when I get a chance if you're interested.


Thread: UK availability of 1/8" Dia shank End mill/Slot drills
31/08/2020 20:13:11

Have a look at Jurassic Tools. They have a huge range of 1/8" shank cutters.

They are a bit hard to find on the site. Select Milling Cutters from the menu and put them in price order, low to high. Most of the first stuff on the list is 1/8" shank. They are about £3-£4 each.

I've got a few of these and they are great on mild steel and brass. I've used them on silver steel as well with light cuts.

I've not tried the carbide ones from there though.


Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?
23/08/2020 17:20:07

Sounds like a square peg in a round hole.

Chris, page 147 of George Daniels "Watchmaking" has a good description and illustrations of how to make a square broach from silver steel. He also describes how to use one.

If you haven't got it, it's a book well worth having. A lot of the information scales up for clockmaking.

I've also milled them quite quickly and easily.

As others has mentioned Youtube's "Clickspring" is a mine of information regarding things horological. Very well presented too.


Thread: Arbour dia and length for Commercial Clock Wheel Cutters
18/08/2020 15:48:14

Here's a Morse No1 arbor I made for my Sherline. Using the spacers and sleeves, it holds Thorntons Mod 0.5 cutters and 0.5 mm slitting saws at the same centre height.






Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears
21/07/2020 17:47:22

HPC gears have a lot of useful data for this sort of thing on their web site.

Martin C

Thanks Martin, I've waded through their stuff as well. Couldn't see anything on parallel depth bevels though.

Thread: EN3B Mild Steel is a pain or is it me?
21/07/2020 17:08:31

Like Martin, I also use the Sherline rear mounted blade and inserts for convenience. Works a treat.

As somebody has already mentioned, it pays not to be to cautious with speeds and feeds. I still sometimes lose my bottle and get the hacksaw out though!

Are you using EN3B round bar? Just asking because I only use it when I can't get EN1A in square, flat or hex.

Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears
21/07/2020 16:50:52

I know this has been done to death on this forum. I've read every post on the subject.

My problem is, I'm not the best at maths and I think in metric. All the diagrams and formulae I've seen are for DP and Imperial.

I thought I'd have a go at "translating" the infamous Fig. 80 in the Ivan Law book, taking into account errors pointed out on on this forum, using gear Module and metric.



I'm not convinced everything is correct here. I also have doubts about points 4 and 5.

Point 4. Surely the large end Mod calc should use large end pitch dia. not O/D?

Point 5. Shouldn't the tooth cutter depend on the large end pitch dia divided by teeth number? Other calculations I've seen use this.

I am hoping that somebody out there with greater knowledge can have a look and confirm things or put me right.



Edited By Steve Crow on 21/07/2020 17:00:28

Thread: Ideas for a Depth Jig for Sherline Mill
19/07/2020 20:41:50

Chris, I made it from a few bits of surplus brass flat and square bar screwed together and bought some thumb screws for clamping. Have a good look at the pictures and you should be able to make something similar from any scrap material you have.



19/07/2020 14:30:37
Posted by Emgee on 19/07/2020 13:50:21:


One way would be to make a clamp that fits across the column dovetail and secured by a single bolt on the easiest to access side, adjust up or down before locking off to suit the travel required.
If you drill and tap M6 for setscrew fitted in the top to act as the stop you will then have a fine adjustment of the drilling depth.


My clamp in the photos can also be used as a depth stop. Just remove the thumbscrew and swinging arm that holds the DTI and clamp it under the head to the desired position.


19/07/2020 13:49:01

Hi Chris,

Not exactly a depth stop but I use this set up with a DTI to get a precise depth. Easy to make from brass and a few thumb screws and very effective. I've attached a few photos so you can see how it works.







Thread: Cigarette Papers
13/07/2020 22:30:23

A mate of mine has spent the last 40 years maintaining oboe's for a living. He gets through boxes of blue Rizla at work. Not sure what for though.

13/07/2020 12:02:38

I get them in boxes of fifty from ebay but they sell smaller quantities or individual packets as well.

13/07/2020 11:41:15

I use OCB black packet papers for edge finding. They are ultra thin and slow burning so I use them anyway for smoking.

I've just stuck one in my best mic - 0.02mm so just less than a thou.

Rizla blue, my second choice for smoking is 0.025mm - slightly thicker.

Rizla black or silver are about the same as the OCB's.

Thread: Short drill or Spot / Centre drill first
08/07/2020 14:25:17

Hi Chris, the reason I ask is if you have the CNC table there is no problem with repeatability when indexing so you can go round and spot, change tools, go round and drill and then again to ream for each circle of holes.


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