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Member postings for Steve Crow

Here is a list of all the postings Steve Crow has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What is the reason why we may lock y axis on Sherline mill?
10/09/2020 18:19:44

Chris, the first thing I did when I got my Sherline mill was to make brass locks with nice handles for x and y axis.

I made x,y, tailstock and depth-stop locks for the lathe when I got that a few years before.

They work so much better than the original set up and really improve work flow.

I also made brass handles for all dials etc. Not really necessary but look and feel superior to plastic.

I'll take some photos when I get a chance if you're interested.

Steve

Thread: UK availability of 1/8" Dia shank End mill/Slot drills
31/08/2020 20:13:11

Have a look at Jurassic Tools. They have a huge range of 1/8" shank cutters.

They are a bit hard to find on the site. Select Milling Cutters from the menu and put them in price order, low to high. Most of the first stuff on the list is 1/8" shank. They are about £3-£4 each.

I've got a few of these and they are great on mild steel and brass. I've used them on silver steel as well with light cuts.

I've not tried the carbide ones from there though.

Steve

Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?
23/08/2020 17:20:07

Sounds like a square peg in a round hole.

Chris, page 147 of George Daniels "Watchmaking" has a good description and illustrations of how to make a square broach from silver steel. He also describes how to use one.

If you haven't got it, it's a book well worth having. A lot of the information scales up for clockmaking.

I've also milled them quite quickly and easily.

As others has mentioned Youtube's "Clickspring" is a mine of information regarding things horological. Very well presented too.

Steve

Thread: Arbour dia and length for Commercial Clock Wheel Cutters
18/08/2020 15:48:14

Here's a Morse No1 arbor I made for my Sherline. Using the spacers and sleeves, it holds Thorntons Mod 0.5 cutters and 0.5 mm slitting saws at the same centre height.

arbor1.jpg

arbor2.jpg

arbor3.jpg

Cheers

Steve

Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears
21/07/2020 17:47:22

HPC gears have a lot of useful data for this sort of thing on their web site.

Martin C

Thanks Martin, I've waded through their stuff as well. Couldn't see anything on parallel depth bevels though.

Thread: EN3B Mild Steel is a pain or is it me?
21/07/2020 17:08:31

Like Martin, I also use the Sherline rear mounted blade and inserts for convenience. Works a treat.

As somebody has already mentioned, it pays not to be to cautious with speeds and feeds. I still sometimes lose my bottle and get the hacksaw out though!

Are you using EN3B round bar? Just asking because I only use it when I can't get EN1A in square, flat or hex.

Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears
21/07/2020 16:50:52

I know this has been done to death on this forum. I've read every post on the subject.

My problem is, I'm not the best at maths and I think in metric. All the diagrams and formulae I've seen are for DP and Imperial.

I thought I'd have a go at "translating" the infamous Fig. 80 in the Ivan Law book, taking into account errors pointed out on on this forum, using gear Module and metric.

bevel_01a.jpg

 

I'm not convinced everything is correct here. I also have doubts about points 4 and 5.

Point 4. Surely the large end Mod calc should use large end pitch dia. not O/D?

Point 5. Shouldn't the tooth cutter depend on the large end pitch dia divided by teeth number? Other calculations I've seen use this.

I am hoping that somebody out there with greater knowledge can have a look and confirm things or put me right.

Cheers

Steve

Edited By Steve Crow on 21/07/2020 17:00:28

Thread: Ideas for a Depth Jig for Sherline Mill
19/07/2020 20:41:50

Chris, I made it from a few bits of surplus brass flat and square bar screwed together and bought some thumb screws for clamping. Have a good look at the pictures and you should be able to make something similar from any scrap material you have.

Cheers

Steve

19/07/2020 14:30:37
Posted by Emgee on 19/07/2020 13:50:21:

Chris

One way would be to make a clamp that fits across the column dovetail and secured by a single bolt on the easiest to access side, adjust up or down before locking off to suit the travel required.
If you drill and tap M6 for setscrew fitted in the top to act as the stop you will then have a fine adjustment of the drilling depth.

Emgee

My clamp in the photos can also be used as a depth stop. Just remove the thumbscrew and swinging arm that holds the DTI and clamp it under the head to the desired position.

Steve

19/07/2020 13:49:01

Hi Chris,

Not exactly a depth stop but I use this set up with a DTI to get a precise depth. Easy to make from brass and a few thumb screws and very effective. I've attached a few photos so you can see how it works.

mill01.jpg

mill02.jpg

mill03.jpg

mill04.jpg

Cheers

Steve

Thread: Cigarette Papers
13/07/2020 22:30:23

A mate of mine has spent the last 40 years maintaining oboe's for a living. He gets through boxes of blue Rizla at work. Not sure what for though.

13/07/2020 12:02:38

I get them in boxes of fifty from ebay but they sell smaller quantities or individual packets as well.

13/07/2020 11:41:15

I use OCB black packet papers for edge finding. They are ultra thin and slow burning so I use them anyway for smoking.

I've just stuck one in my best mic - 0.02mm so just less than a thou.

Rizla blue, my second choice for smoking is 0.025mm - slightly thicker.

Rizla black or silver are about the same as the OCB's.

Thread: Short drill or Spot / Centre drill first
08/07/2020 14:25:17

Hi Chris, the reason I ask is if you have the CNC table there is no problem with repeatability when indexing so you can go round and spot, change tools, go round and drill and then again to ream for each circle of holes.

Steve

07/07/2020 15:14:37

Chris, Is your rotary table the Sherline CNC model?

07/07/2020 12:27:26

Hi Chris,

For jobs like this, I use stub length split point drills from cncpoorboy. They are very good quality. Being stub length, they don't flex much and eliminate the need for spotting.

25mm is quite deep for a 3mm drill. Do you need to go all the way through or will a blind hole do?

Steve

Thread: What to look out for on shank size when buying
06/07/2020 17:35:59

Hi Chris, I'm a bit late to this thread.

I use Sherline 6mm and 10mm end mill holders all the time.

Like you, I initially got some cheap cutters that had an undersized shank, a sloppy fit with lots of run-out.

Now I get all my end mills from the "CNCpoorboy" ebay shop. Select their HSS Cutters and put them in price order, low to high.

You will see a whole range of plain flatted shank end mills of all sizes and flute count. I get the 3 flute type and use them on silver steel, mild steel and brass with success.

They are generally British made, Osbourn or Clarkson and they fit in the holders with a nice satisfying push fit. I have yet to break one.

Under 6mm are less than a fiver with postage and always very quick delivery. They are also good for quality 4 facet stub drills and carbide cutters. I've got a few reamer from them as well.

I have no affiliation with the company but I've used them for about 3 years now and everything I've got has been top quality.

Cheers

Steve

Thread: Cutting brass with saw questions
04/07/2020 20:07:18

Chris, I've been watching this thread with interest. I too have a Sherline lathe and mill and we have similar interests.

But please, do appreciate that people on this forum have taken their valuable time to give you good advice based on years of experience.

I have not seen anyone call you or your ideas "silly". Only polite encouragement and opinions. If those opinions differ from yours, don't take it as a criticism or an insult.

I hope you continue to post as I've learnt a fair bit from some of the replies - as I said, we have similar equipment and interests.

Please try to be less sensitive and take on board the massive reserve of knowledge this forum represents.

Like yourself, I've not been in this game for too long but I've learnt a huge amount from delving into this forum.

Back to the original subject. George Daniels "Watchmaking" has very informative descriptions and diagrams for crossing out wheels. He shows which files to use and in which order to get crisp corners etc.

Anyway, best of luck with whatever method you choose and keep us informed.

Cheers

Steve

Thread: Material for engine block.
10/06/2020 15:15:34

Thanks, all interesting stuff! I didn't know about the Rolls Royce connection.

I'm trying to find any scraps of plans and drawings on the web to help me with this. Do you know of any sources?

10/06/2020 14:19:58
Posted by Oily Rag on 10/06/2020 13:38:35:

If I find it you are more than welcome to have it!

Thank you for your kind offer but I will pass on it. It's a bit big for my requirements and machinery.

I won't be attempting the quill drive and I don't even know what a "bomb" is! Maybe you can educate me.

cw6acvswqaaclu8.jpg

In fact, the gear train isn't strictly scale, more "inspired by". My model will be running on compressed air and will be two stroke so there is no reduction between shaft and cam. Here's a drawing.

gear_train_02.jpg

As you can see, this is a simplified version designed to resemble the original. This is with mod 0.5 gears, if I can cut mods 0.33 or 0.25 gears it would be more realistic.

It is good to hear from somebody who has worked on such an iconic engine and it's derivatives. I have never even seen one in the flesh.

Cheers

Steve

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