Here is a list of all the postings Steve Crow has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What is the reason why we may lock y axis on Sherline mill?|
Chris, the first thing I did when I got my Sherline mill was to make brass locks with nice handles for x and y axis.
I made x,y, tailstock and depth-stop locks for the lathe when I got that a few years before.
They work so much better than the original set up and really improve work flow.
I also made brass handles for all dials etc. Not really necessary but look and feel superior to plastic.
I'll take some photos when I get a chance if you're interested.
|Thread: UK availability of 1/8" Dia shank End mill/Slot drills|
Have a look at Jurassic Tools. They have a huge range of 1/8" shank cutters.
They are a bit hard to find on the site. Select Milling Cutters from the menu and put them in price order, low to high. Most of the first stuff on the list is 1/8" shank. They are about £3-£4 each.
I've got a few of these and they are great on mild steel and brass. I've used them on silver steel as well with light cuts.
I've not tried the carbide ones from there though.
|Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?|
Sounds like a square peg in a round hole.
Chris, page 147 of George Daniels "Watchmaking" has a good description and illustrations of how to make a square broach from silver steel. He also describes how to use one.
If you haven't got it, it's a book well worth having. A lot of the information scales up for clockmaking.
I've also milled them quite quickly and easily.
As others has mentioned Youtube's "Clickspring" is a mine of information regarding things horological. Very well presented too.
|Thread: Arbour dia and length for Commercial Clock Wheel Cutters|
Here's a Morse No1 arbor I made for my Sherline. Using the spacers and sleeves, it holds Thorntons Mod 0.5 cutters and 0.5 mm slitting saws at the same centre height.
|Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears|
Thanks Martin, I've waded through their stuff as well. Couldn't see anything on parallel depth bevels though.
|Thread: EN3B Mild Steel is a pain or is it me?|
Like Martin, I also use the Sherline rear mounted blade and inserts for convenience. Works a treat.
As somebody has already mentioned, it pays not to be to cautious with speeds and feeds. I still sometimes lose my bottle and get the hacksaw out though!
Are you using EN3B round bar? Just asking because I only use it when I can't get EN1A in square, flat or hex.
|Thread: Parallel Depth Bevel Gears|
I know this has been done to death on this forum. I've read every post on the subject.
My problem is, I'm not the best at maths and I think in metric. All the diagrams and formulae I've seen are for DP and Imperial.
I thought I'd have a go at "translating" the infamous Fig. 80 in the Ivan Law book, taking into account errors pointed out on on this forum, using gear Module and metric.
I'm not convinced everything is correct here. I also have doubts about points 4 and 5.
Point 4. Surely the large end Mod calc should use large end pitch dia. not O/D?
Point 5. Shouldn't the tooth cutter depend on the large end pitch dia divided by teeth number? Other calculations I've seen use this.
I am hoping that somebody out there with greater knowledge can have a look and confirm things or put me right.
Edited By Steve Crow on 21/07/2020 17:00:28
|Thread: Ideas for a Depth Jig for Sherline Mill|
Chris, I made it from a few bits of surplus brass flat and square bar screwed together and bought some thumb screws for clamping. Have a good look at the pictures and you should be able to make something similar from any scrap material you have.
My clamp in the photos can also be used as a depth stop. Just remove the thumbscrew and swinging arm that holds the DTI and clamp it under the head to the desired position.
Not exactly a depth stop but I use this set up with a DTI to get a precise depth. Easy to make from brass and a few thumb screws and very effective. I've attached a few photos so you can see how it works.
|Thread: Cigarette Papers|
A mate of mine has spent the last 40 years maintaining oboe's for a living. He gets through boxes of blue Rizla at work. Not sure what for though.
I get them in boxes of fifty from ebay but they sell smaller quantities or individual packets as well.
I use OCB black packet papers for edge finding. They are ultra thin and slow burning so I use them anyway for smoking.
I've just stuck one in my best mic - 0.02mm so just less than a thou.
Rizla blue, my second choice for smoking is 0.025mm - slightly thicker.
Rizla black or silver are about the same as the OCB's.
|Thread: Short drill or Spot / Centre drill first|
Hi Chris, the reason I ask is if you have the CNC table there is no problem with repeatability when indexing so you can go round and spot, change tools, go round and drill and then again to ream for each circle of holes.
Chris, Is your rotary table the Sherline CNC model?
For jobs like this, I use stub length split point drills from cncpoorboy. They are very good quality. Being stub length, they don't flex much and eliminate the need for spotting.
25mm is quite deep for a 3mm drill. Do you need to go all the way through or will a blind hole do?
|Thread: What to look out for on shank size when buying|
Hi Chris, I'm a bit late to this thread.
I use Sherline 6mm and 10mm end mill holders all the time.
Like you, I initially got some cheap cutters that had an undersized shank, a sloppy fit with lots of run-out.
Now I get all my end mills from the "CNCpoorboy" ebay shop. Select their HSS Cutters and put them in price order, low to high.
You will see a whole range of plain flatted shank end mills of all sizes and flute count. I get the 3 flute type and use them on silver steel, mild steel and brass with success.
They are generally British made, Osbourn or Clarkson and they fit in the holders with a nice satisfying push fit. I have yet to break one.
Under 6mm are less than a fiver with postage and always very quick delivery. They are also good for quality 4 facet stub drills and carbide cutters. I've got a few reamer from them as well.
I have no affiliation with the company but I've used them for about 3 years now and everything I've got has been top quality.
|Thread: Cutting brass with saw questions|
Chris, I've been watching this thread with interest. I too have a Sherline lathe and mill and we have similar interests.
But please, do appreciate that people on this forum have taken their valuable time to give you good advice based on years of experience.
I have not seen anyone call you or your ideas "silly". Only polite encouragement and opinions. If those opinions differ from yours, don't take it as a criticism or an insult.
I hope you continue to post as I've learnt a fair bit from some of the replies - as I said, we have similar equipment and interests.
Please try to be less sensitive and take on board the massive reserve of knowledge this forum represents.
Like yourself, I've not been in this game for too long but I've learnt a huge amount from delving into this forum.
Back to the original subject. George Daniels "Watchmaking" has very informative descriptions and diagrams for crossing out wheels. He shows which files to use and in which order to get crisp corners etc.
Anyway, best of luck with whatever method you choose and keep us informed.
|Thread: Material for engine block.|
Thanks, all interesting stuff! I didn't know about the Rolls Royce connection.
I'm trying to find any scraps of plans and drawings on the web to help me with this. Do you know of any sources?
Thank you for your kind offer but I will pass on it. It's a bit big for my requirements and machinery.
I won't be attempting the quill drive and I don't even know what a "bomb" is! Maybe you can educate me.
In fact, the gear train isn't strictly scale, more "inspired by". My model will be running on compressed air and will be two stroke so there is no reduction between shaft and cam. Here's a drawing.
As you can see, this is a simplified version designed to resemble the original. This is with mod 0.5 gears, if I can cut mods 0.33 or 0.25 gears it would be more realistic.
It is good to hear from somebody who has worked on such an iconic engine and it's derivatives. I have never even seen one in the flesh.
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