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Member postings for Jim Nic

Here is a list of all the postings Jim Nic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Another newbie
31/03/2018 11:46:34

Welcome Paul.

Nothing at all wrong or annoying with newbie questions. Where in the world are you?, your location sometimes has a bearing on any advice offered.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
30/03/2018 21:55:55

I haven't made a lot of progress on the Hasbrouk Rocking Valve Engine of late. For one thing other priorities have got in the way and for another I haven't really taken to this project like I have with all my previous engines. However I like to finish what I've started so on we go. Here are a couple of "family shots" of the cylinder and crosshead and the crankshaft in its bearing pedestals.

Hasbrouk family shot 1.jpg

Hasbrouk family shot 3.jpg

I am making the engine smaller than the original drawing so the next step is the connecting rod and then I can confirm my dimensions and get the cylinder and crankshaft mounted on the baseplate.

Jim

Thread: Good source of gear to make threading attachment for lathe
27/03/2018 22:43:26

Good for you Chris. As I said, I would be interested to see how you do it (and I wasn;'t being facetious) so I hope you can enlighten us when you have completed it, perhaps by updating this thread.

Jim

26/03/2018 20:30:56

I'll be interested to see how you arrange the gears to drive your leadscrew on a Unimat 3.

The U3 I have has no mechanical connection between headstock mandrel and leadscrew. The only drive I have seen is a mechanism which connects to the end of the leadscrew and takes it's drive via a rubber belt off the motor pulley as a means of feeding the crosslide, but that has a fixed ratio.

Jim

Thread: Un workable steel
25/03/2018 12:10:52

I came on a piece of 3" dia steel bar of unknown composition a while back and kept it as a "come in handy". When I found a use for it and tried to machine it I could cut it only with carbide tip tool and then only if I ran it at a very low speed and with a small cut. Even then my lathe was working hard but I kept going because the steel was "too good to chuck away".

The result was that after an hour or so continuous working I had overheated and burnt out my lathe motor.

An expensive lesson! I now only have material that I have bought and know it's composition.

Jim

Thread: Broken tap in copper boiler
18/03/2018 20:27:57

Thanks for the good news update.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
14/03/2018 20:04:57

George

I did notice that you had located your nice brass spacers on top of the entablature whereas Stew's original drawings show them underneath. I thought you had done this to show off your brass polishing skills and had adjusted the pillar length to compensate. The difference would be 10mm.

The solution to your problem may be as simple as to locate the spacers between the pillars and the entablature.

Jim

13/03/2018 23:37:29

It's all a matter of personal taste of course but I think the brick effect looks a lot better than the previous all over tiling. Good choice.

Jim

12/03/2018 00:32:35

Stunning work on the oiler Jason.

And the Root and Van Dervoort is pretty impressive too, I love how the cart turned out.

Jim

11/03/2018 11:19:50

Bricks, for sure.

Jim

09/03/2018 12:11:01

Indeed looking like summat now George.

Can't offer any advice re polishing the ali top plate, for my Popcorn I engine turned the base and then laquered it for protection. Seems to be working to keep it shiny and easy to wipe away dust and oil so I would certainly recommend a coat of laquer.

How are you going to connect the air (or steam) to it? It appears you have a hollow wood base so a connection in the side of the wood and then up through the MDF to the inlet valve would look neat.

Popcorn finished 5.jpg

This is just a brass turning with an M6 threaded hole for the connector glued in to a hole in the brown stuff and piped to the connector in the ali base.

Jim

Thread: Broaching press
08/03/2018 16:38:53

The thickness of the component being broached will also have an influence on whether you can fit the whole shebang, component plus the broach sticking out the top, in to an arbour press.

There is currently a 6 ton hydraulic press available from a seller on the Bay of EEs for £64.95 all in (Item 351730934471) if you have the funds, the workshop space and the ongoing need for such a tool.

Jim

Thread: One Hand Operated Depth Gauge
21/02/2018 21:28:41

Today I managed to cross something off my "To-do" list when I turned this:

one hand depth gauge 1.jpg

into this:

one hand depth gauge 2.jpg

Happy days.

Thanks for the drawing Stew.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
20/02/2018 16:15:58

Jason

I went with that conversion for 2 reasons:

1. I happened to have a flywheel about 3/5 of the original design size.

2. I wanted to convert the imperial dimensions I had on the drawing to metric so I made a spreadsheet and 15 was a convenient number to end up where I wanted to be and seemed the logical way to do it.

3. I never thought of working the other way (which now you mention it would have been a heck of a lot simpler)

I wish now I had asked for advice on here, but next time ..........

Jim

20/02/2018 10:21:52

My current project is Ray Hasbrouk's No 3 Rocking Valve Engine. This is a fairly simple engine with not a lot of moving features so I decided to reduce it's size. I did this by converting the imperial dimensions on the drawing to metric using a 15mm to the inch conversion factor.

After a set back involving a small BA tap and a ruined cylinder I have made a couple of design changes to allow the use of larger threads than the reduction in size called for and now have a completed cylinder assembly.

Hasbrouck cylinder assy 1.jpg

Hasbrouck cylinder assy 2.jpg

Jim

18/02/2018 10:57:54

Swing arms look good George. yes I think that's probably the trickiest bit.

Jim

Thread: First project
12/02/2018 19:13:06

Ian

I can recommend Steve's wobbler design as a first project, it was the one I started on.

First Attempt 1

First Attempt 2

There is a lot of good guidance with the drawings if your skills are a bit rusty and if you are up to speed already it will be good practice to get familiar with your new lathe. As no castings are involved, if you make a mistake there is no delay in making a new part and it will be cheaper than replacing a casting. Plus you will hopefully end up with some bits of stock materials which always come in handy.

My second engine was a Stuart 10V which I did with no problems because I had a fair knowledge of my machines and how various metals behaved by then. I also had a few more bits of tooling having completed a couple of other small projects.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 12/02/2018 19:14:37

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
02/02/2018 14:11:12

Know just how you feel George. The cylinder block pictured in my last post is now in the scrap bin after I broke a 10BA tap in it. crying 2 All part of life's rich pattern

Jim

Thread: Knee or Head
28/01/2018 11:31:50

I have a WM16 which is very similar to the WM18 under discussion. When taking a milling cut I don't lower the head to increase the depth of cut. I set the initial position of the head and lock it then use the quill fine feed mechanism and digital readout to lower the cutting tool.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
28/01/2018 11:21:05

With Stew Hart's Popcorn engine finished -

Popcorn finished 2.jpg

it was time to make a start on Ray HasBrouck's No3 Rocking Valve engine. I purchased the book containing the drawings a while ago and yesterday I gathered the main materials to make a start (there may be a few bits left over at the end).

Hasbrouck materials.jpg

It is a small, fairly straightforward design and shouldn't pose any difficulty (famous last words!), I've even bought in a flywheel. I chose this engine because I dont have such a valve mechanism in my collection.

Today I've made a start on the cylinder block.

Hasbrouck cylinder 1.jpg

Jim

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