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Member postings for Jim Nic

Here is a list of all the postings Jim Nic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
20/06/2018 20:19:06

The light blue looks a bit pale for my taste George but plenty of engines were grey so it doesn't look out of place. The finish looks too good to remove and sometimes overthinking something makes the dilemma worse. wink

Keep it as is, mount the dark flywheel for a good contrast and call it done.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 20/06/2018 20:19:36

Thread: 3 in 1 Oil
13/06/2018 09:55:29

I used 3 in 1 oil in my first couple of models and found that it does indeed go gummy after a fairly short time. I ended up stripping a couple of engines that were only a year or so old to get rid of all the residue. I only run my engines on compressed air.

I have no idea what is in the oil to make it gum up, I only know I don't use it now.

Jim

Thread: Governor pulley belt
12/06/2018 15:57:50

It appears to my old eyes that the drive pulley is made for a flat belt while the governor pulley is made for a round belt. How about remaking the drive pulley with a round groove similar in size to the pulley groove on the governor. If you use the existing drive pulley as a basis you would keep the hole you made to fit the crankshaft and the threaded hole for the grubscrew so it would then be smaller and result in a slower turning governor.

Your Mamod spring belt may then work.

Jim

Thread: Potty overcrank
11/06/2018 13:03:47

Nicely done Eric, love the floor.

Another fine advert for Stew's Vertical Cross design. wink 2

Jim

Thread: Which type of pin
08/06/2018 20:00:16

A roll pin will be visible, of course. If you never want to get the arbor out then cross drill and use a steel pin Loctited in. A couple of strokes with a fine file and it'll be invisible.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
06/06/2018 17:17:05

Thanks for sorting out the link Jason.

The engine was straightforward to make and the valve operation was simple to work out as I could see it through the air inlet. The only puzzle for me was when I came to the first run, it didn't. The air just leaked right through the engine and out of the exhaust. After a bit of head scratching I fixed it by fitting the piston O ring which I had left off for the trial run.

Jim

06/06/2018 17:03:27

Plumbing done on the Rocking Valve engine:

Hasbrouk final family shot.jpg

And, hopefully, a bit of video of the first run:

https://youtu.be/wc0bhx2L9lo

Jim

 

Edited By Jim Nic on 06/06/2018 17:05:52

Edited By JasonB on 06/06/2018 17:07:21

29/05/2018 16:48:18

George

You may have to do a bit of head scratching to combine the exhaust ports on your Vertical Cross because looking back I see you have done them to plan and put them on the side of the valve chest. I had planned to combine them from the off and so put mine in the face of the chest so that a simple cover plate and some longer studs made it easy.

vertical exhaust.jpg

The additional cover plate has a shallow groove in the back covering the 2 ports and then a hole through from the groove to the front with a connector flange silver soldered in.

Jim

28/05/2018 10:15:38

That looks good George (but then, I would say that wouldn't I?)

How is it running now?

Jim

Thread: What's the best alternative to 'loctited'
22/05/2018 16:08:26

Who, other than Neil, thinks that using "Loctite" as a generic term is, or has caused, a problem in the building of a model.

There is plenty of on-line information for the guidance of those unsure of the right adhesive for a particular application and surely part of the hobby is using one's own judgement and learning new things in making mechanical devices.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
22/05/2018 11:39:51

After the passing of much time it seems I have the semblance of a rocking valve engine.

Hasbrouk family shot 4.jpg

Hasbrouk family shot 5.jpg

My cosmetic "improvements" from Ray HasBrouk's original design such as visible crankshaft bearings, a different eccentric arrangement and a different connecting rod end ganged up on me.  The cumulative result is that the valve operating rod end is some 5mm outside the valve operating arm.  One solution would have been to bend the rod back into line but I don't normally like to see push rods with bends in them so I made an extended link.  It may stay, it may not.  

What I really need to do is either stick to designer's drawings or properly think through what I'm "improving".  A lesson learned.  frown 

Next steps are to arrange the plumbing and the wooden  base, decide on a colour and paint it.

Jim

 

 

 

Edited By Jim Nic on 22/05/2018 11:53:40

Edited By Jim Nic on 22/05/2018 11:55:47

Thread: Macc Models Update
18/05/2018 11:23:43

Joe

So sorry to hear your very sad news. Best wishes to you and your wife.

Jim

Thread: Show and Tell Event for Forum Members?
17/05/2018 10:09:31

I'm another who would be interested, depending on location.

Find a possible venue, or better yet, a couple of alternatives, and I would guess there would be a more enthusiastic response.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
16/05/2018 22:00:40

Well done George.

yes, yes, yes

Jim

15/05/2018 13:48:39

Look on the bright side George, at least you don't have to worry about what your next project is going to be yet. wink

Jim

12/05/2018 12:35:02

George

That's the same drawing as I used. I checked my engine last evening and there is no appreciable leakage past the valve at its operating pressure of less than 10 pounds per squinch.

Just a couple of suggestions of possible causes for your problem could be: incorrect valve dimension, a less than good fit between valve and bore, or incorrect positioning/range of movement of the valve. Given that the valve is made to drawing how closely does it fit the bore? If that is satisfactory is the throw on the eccentric correct and is the valve rod the correct length and set to move the valve at the correct time in the crank cycle?

Jim

11/05/2018 16:17:58

George

I've checked my retained drawings and have noted no "improvements" to Stew's design so all I can say without stripping the engine is that the valve is made to drawing.

The valve chest is almost to drawing, the only changes are making it with a closed bottom end (rather than boring it all through and then plugging it) and putting the exhaust holes on the front face to facilitate a cover with an exhaust pipe.

Where is the leaking air in your engine going? My valve may also leak but any air could only go down the exhaust pipe and I wouldn't know! (I'm now going to have to go and check, of course)

Jim

11/05/2018 12:55:41

George

I'm a little puzzled by your having problems with the spool valve on your Vertical Cross engine as in my experience they are normally simple to make and reliable. I have a total of 5 such valves on 3 different engines, all have used 6mm silver steel rod as the basis for the valves working in a 6mm reamed bore.

These from my Paddleduck are the most complex:

spool valves.jpg

Good luck with the investigation, I hope whatever cure is required is not too drastic.

Jim

Thread: Metal spinning without the need for skill, well almost without the need
08/05/2018 10:45:20

Fascinating and informative, thanks for showing us.

What is the blank made from and do you prepare the metal in any way? (Other than making it the size you need.)

Jim

Thread: Where can I get this hole aligning tool
26/04/2018 15:10:37

The half diameter pin has not rotated out of position, it is designed like that so that the pin can be inserted through a close tolerance hole of the same diameter as the pin. When the screw is tightened the oversize half of the pin is pulled up and catches against the underside of substrate panel and the main body grips the patch. Hence the name "Gripper Pins". I still have a few from my aircraft fixing days.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 26/04/2018 15:11:23

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