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Member postings for Jim Nic

Here is a list of all the postings Jim Nic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: loctite fixing
14/10/2018 15:06:11

Not sure what you used when you say "retainer". Loctite is best at fixing shafts and bearings into holes and when correctly used for that purpose is difficult to shift.

I often use the adhesive method for workholding and use cyanoacrylate - instant glue. Ensure your surfaces are clean, and oil free, apply the glue sparingly and with pressure. I usually leave the assembly for at least 12 hours before machining.

To disassemble, moderate heat with a paint stripper gun and a light tap usually does the trick.

Jim

Thread: Train In a Bottle
06/10/2018 19:25:09

And all this time I thought your Horwich Crab was a bit bigger than that wink

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
06/10/2018 13:48:12

Not a lot to show on the Overcrank since my last post on 12 Sep but here is a "family shot" of the components of the largely completed cylinder block.

cylinder block 15.jpg

And the assembled bits.

cylinder block 16.jpg

I'm not quite sure how best to proceed so to give me some thinking time I will make the aluminium sheet base and then probably the 3 main bearing supports.

Jim

Thread: WARCO Reversing Problem
05/10/2018 16:04:39

My 8 year old WM240 does an indicated 1200 forward and 600 in reverse. I agree that there's probably nowt wrong with yours.

Jim

Thread: Alternative Heat Source
02/10/2018 09:44:42

Other than an old bicycle lamp, what did you have in mind to use it for?

Jim

Thread: Unusual Oscillating Cylinder Locomotive
30/09/2018 10:28:54

I've no informationto add, but it looks to be a well made contraption. It would be interesting to see it running some day.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
28/09/2018 16:12:23

Thanks Jason, I hadn't spotted that. Pricey but probably good for a couple of small eccentric sheaves I have to solder up so I'll get some at the Midlands Show and give it a go.

Jim

28/09/2018 14:45:28

Hi George

Thanks for the reply. I have seen low temperature solder paste before but I was hoping you had found silver solder paste.

For similar applications I have used silver solder foil supplied by CuP Alloys which is placed, with some flux, between larger surface to be joined before heating. It works well but is expensive.

Jim

27/09/2018 17:13:27

For my pickle, George, I just start with the amount of water I need and then keep adding citric acid crystals until the solution is saturated. The initial excess crystals fall to the bottom of the container and dissolve over a couple of days. It seems to work OK, as did yours.

When you say you used solder paste, was that soft solder paste or a form of silver solder?

Jim

18/09/2018 21:08:38

Whatever that started out as Brian, and whatever it has ended up as, it is a very good looking piece of hardware which clearly took a lot of skill and care to make.

Jim

Thread: Anyone Got a Warco WM240B?
14/09/2018 10:18:49

I've had a 240 since 2011 and find it a good lathe for my model building needs. Mine is the variable speed model which I like because of the ability to alter the speed on the fly if I'm not getting the results I want. I'll also tempt fate and say the variable speed has been no trouble.

I sometimes wish I had spent a little more and bought the 250 as others are suggesting here but to do that now is more than a little more, it's the difference between £1000 and £1700!

Jim

Thread: hobbymat
13/09/2018 10:23:23

I use a Tangential Tool from Eccentric Engineering (advertisement to the right of this page) for the vast majority of my lathework and have done since the very early days of my modelling "career". No shims required and sharpening HSS bits is easy using the jig supplied.

For my small boring bar I made an aluminium carrier which is kept with the bar ready for use.

Ali Shim1.jpg

 

Ali Shim 2.jpg

On the odd occasion I need shims I use metal packaging strapping and, for fine adjustments, cut up drink cans.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 13/09/2018 10:24:45

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
12/09/2018 21:02:49

By eck Jason that's a flywheel and a half and no mistake. Once you get that spinning it'll carry on for ever.

Jim

12/09/2018 19:05:07

Thanks Geoff

The 7BA studs are 10.5mm long and the holes, which are 5mm deep, would probably just break through the outside cylinder wall if they went much deeper.

dsc01483.jpg

Jim

12/09/2018 14:07:12

My current project of Stew Hart’s Overcrank engine is proving to be a little more of a challenge than I thought. However, if everything was easy life would be awfully boring so on we go.

Having opened out the cylinder bores, I got confused over the steam passages and made a bit of an upcock which required a couple more blanking plugs. I also decided on the spur of the moment to alter the design for the exhaust outlet to allow me to fit a pipe in place of the open port in the block. Here is the block with the blanks Loctited in place ready to be smoothed off.

cylinder block 12.jpg

The enlarged exhaust port is also clear but what is not apparent is that it lies in the way of one of the valve chest fixing studs so my “improvement” has caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth.

To give me time to recover and work out a solution I made the cylinder end caps.

cylinder block 13.jpg

cylinder block 14.jpg

Now for the steam chest and valves.

Jim

Thread: Erratic edge finder
23/08/2018 13:53:17

Well I'll go to the foot of our stairs!

I've just read this and checked my edge finder:

edge finder.jpg

and it too was slightly magnetised. I've noticed lately that it was getting a tad inconsistent but of course blamed myself for poor technique. Now degaussed so all should return to normal except with me looking for different excuses for my poor workmanship.

Thanks for raising the subject Ifoggy.

Jim

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
15/08/2018 13:59:49

My little hearth is purpose made and bought from CuP Alloys so I don't think that is the problem. Although for the large chunks of brass shown here something a bit bigger to hold more heat in the job may have helped. The bricks are just used to hold the insulators in place.

Jim

15/08/2018 10:22:40

Some progress on the Overcrank engine.

The cylinder assembly looked the most challenging so that's where I started.

The cylinder block centre section:

cylinder block 2.jpg

The centre section with the cylinders. The bores have been left undersize until after silver soldering:

cylinder block 4.jpg

cylinder block 5.jpg

Set up for silver soldering. For some reason although I know the theory and have some good gear (a Seivert torch), I do not have the knack of making good quick clean joints.

cylinder block 6.jpg

And here is the soldered cylinder block after pickling:

cylinder block 7.jpg

It still needs fettling and cleaning up but I reckon it'll do.

Next is to finish the bores to correct size and drill the steam passages.

Jim

13/08/2018 16:02:11

Looks great George, particularly like the paint job. wink (You have at least made a start)

Jim

Thread: Engine plans
07/08/2018 09:58:24

I did buiild my version of this engine in Jason's link using metric units but while converting I reduced the size because to my eye the engine was a bit long with not a lot of moving bits going on . I used a photocopier, a calculator and some Snopake to arrive at my working drawings, no CAD to share I'm afraid.

Jim

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