Here is a list of all the postings Jim Nic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brass cylinder block correction question|
Oops! Sorry I didn't read the question properly and missed that it was PYRTE we are talking of here. My suggestions are of no use in this case.
If the engine is to be run on air rather than steam I would be tempted to try filling the hole in the web with JB Weld epoxy filler, simple and comparitively quick. Should that not work then your flat bottomed hole and a plug would be my next choice, I would use Loctite 638 on the plug which would then not need to be a press fit. Give the Loctite 24 to 48 hours to cure before machining.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Nice looking job on Sophie, she's a good runner too. Well done.
|Thread: How to cut a tapered shoulder?|
I'm with JS. I used the bent shaft method to mount Spitfire and Hurricane models on a single base and gave an appearance of a close formation banked turn. The bend was close to the top.
I also made a small top hat plug to fit in the aircraft fuselage to add strength where the shaft fitted. Sorry no pictures, it was a few years ago.
|Thread: Workshop thermal gloves- advice please|
I am not normally an Elf''n'safety jobsworth but I would be VERY wary of using gloves when machining, especially if my fingers lacked feeling.
If your budget allows it insulation, and loads of it, (for the garage as well as you) would be a good first move.
Edited By Jim Nic on 25/02/2017 22:16:02
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2017)|
Today I finished making the parts for the Jowitt poppit valve engine drawn by Jason B. I’ve made few changes from Jason’s build log, mainly in materials to suit what was to hand and fabricated flywheels rather than use castings, but it’s taken a while longer than Jason did.
All (all??) I have to do now is get it running and paint it up.
|Thread: Grinding a carbon steel die|
I have used both the methods you are considering. For the studding method I use some Loctite to keep the bits together with some success.
For grinding the back of a die I hold it in a tailstock die holder to save my fingers from the wheel and the heat generated and the fact that you have a small grinding wheel is an advantage as you will form a concave recess on the die. Just make sure you grind the unmarked face!
Even with a ground die I doubt you will get your plug to seat unless you either undercut the male thread or recess the female.
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