Here is a list of all the postings Jim Nic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: using spotting drills for countersinking|
Good tip Doug, thanks I also have difficulty with countersinks and have several of varius designs and sizes. I also have a bunch of spotting drills up to 12mm which are lightly used in the larger sizes so I will give them a go in future.
|Thread: ML7 toolpost - Turns Under Load|
On my lathe, which isn't a Myford, I can set the toolpost to any angle and it will stay put under any load I put on it. Is it possible that the toolpost clamping handle is bottoming on the toolpost stud thread or the thread is bottoming in the handle if it is a blind hole. In either case your solution may be as simple as a washer.
|Thread: Boiler hydraulic test|
First revisit your sums and/or typing skills.
80 psi times 2 = 160.
Other than that I regret I have no useful information to offer.
|Thread: Stuart victoria|
As an interested bystander, thank you for posting your method. In the 10 or so years i've been making bearings I have never come up with a satisfactory way of holding them in place while the solder melts, usually relying on gravity. Now I have and I'm off to the workshop to find the piano wire I know is in there somewhere.
|Thread: Two sides of a coin?|
When I want to order from M-machine I phone them up and usually a very nice and very efficient and knowledgeable lady takes my order. I pay by card.
|Thread: PYRTE Build|
Good to hear.
I am assuming that the valve is similar to this one from a Stuart stationery engine with the rod going front to back between the castellations across the valve and is threaded in the cross piece which goes from left to right between the castellations.
It should not be necessary to skim the valve chest wall as long as the valve operating rod and cross piece are both free in the valve itself.
Not wishing to tell you something you are well aware of so please forgive me if you know this: the valve should be free to float up and down to a small degree in relation to the port face to ensure good contact, it is the steam pressure in the valve chest that holds it down.
I have read a thread in another place where the modeller ended up fitting a spring between the top of the valve and the chest cover to ensure good valve face contact but I would say that should not really be necessary.
It sounds as if the valve (it is a slide valve, I take it) is not seating on the port face thus allowing the steam to avoid the cylinder completely and just go direct from the valve chest out of the exhaust port. Particularly as I get the impression that here is no restriction or force preventing you turning the flywheel even though there is steam pressure in the engine.
Is there something holding the valve off?
I also use a small cheapo Chinese demagnetiser from the bay. My experience of it is similar to Brian H in that it can take a couple of goes through the procedure to completely get rid of residual magnetism but the end result is usually good. I've not tried it on anything bigger than a 12mm spanner.
|Thread: material suppliers|
+1 for Macc Models (Note correct spelling if searching on line, or check under "Shopping Partners" to the right of this page.) I also use M Machine for larger bits of sheet metal and steel tube.
I have always received excellent service from both.
|Thread: Myford ML10 - Disengaging the Autofeed|
I am not an ML10 owner so may be completely wrong, but, my understanding is that there are 2 levers to engage the self act. One is the conventional half nut engagement lever on the apron and the other is at the headstock end to engage drive to the leadscrew via a sliding sleeve over the split leadscrew with a slot which engages with a stud on the business end of the leadscrew.
So, the question is which lever is the OP using to engage the self act. If it is the sliding sleeve lever and the sleeve is not free to slide then the symptoms described will result. The solution may be as simple as a squirt of oil down the sliding sleeve.
As I said I don't own and have never operated a ML10 so I may be talking rubbish, if so be gentle with me I'm only trying to help.
Edited By Jim Nic on 12/10/2020 09:45:08
Edited By Jim Nic on 12/10/2020 09:45:44
|Thread: White rock salt|
I'm not familiar with the machines you refer to. Mine claims to have a capacity of 8 litres per day but the collection tank is only about 1 litre capacity.
This is mine, 350mm wide by 500mm high, branded ELU. It is a dessicant wheel device. A fan collects the moist air, drives it across a rotating dessicant packed wheel which extracts the moisture then blows the dried and slightly warmed air back in to the workshop. A second fan blows warmed air through the wheel later in its rotation to extract the water and collected it in a tank for disposal.
I have seen some so called dehumidifiers in the past which are just a container of silica gel dessicant which sit passively collecting moisture which you then have to dispose of by heating the gel in an oven; I would avoid such a device.
Hope the somewhat basic description helps.
I run a dessicant dehumidifier in my workshop for a timed 1 hour at close of play on wet days and it definitely removes a great deal of moisture from the air, which is collected as water in a built in tank.
Previously I had a condensor type when my workshop was my garage and that also removed a lot of water but tended to freeze up and stop working if the temperature fell below zero.
I recommend a dehumidifier, both types work at removing moisture but which type is best depends on circumstances of use.
|Thread: Piston Valve design - new one on me|
The third engine I ever built back in 2013, a twin cylinder vertical called Paddleduck designed by John "Bogstandard" Moore, has just this arrrangement with the exhaust being collected and piped away as the engine was designed for use in a boat. I only run it on air but It works fine.
|Thread: Walton broken tap extractor|
I thought they would be thread specific so a bit pricy to buy some "just in case". I agree they would be invaluable if they can rescue a part with a broken tap stuck in the last hole.
Looks like a useful bit of kit Henry.
What range of tap sizes will it fit?
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020|
Congratulations. Another fine example of Jason's Jowitt and with a result as good as that on your first "real engine" perhaps an encouragement to others to give it a go.
|Thread: Horizontal hit and miss engine|
That's really nice, well done.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020|
An interesting method of construction for sure, well thought out and a good use of materials to hand.
For me an attractive aspect of model engineering is "doing it my way" while sticking to the basic design dimensions.
I look forward to updates on this project.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Glad to hear that only your pride is seriously damaged. All's well that ends well and by the sounds of it at least you've given your Koi something to talk about.
Which of us has not got up to such activities in our later years, I certainly have fortunately without serious injury.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.