Here is a list of all the postings Juddy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Surface Plate & Height Gauge recommendations|
I work for a major engine manufacturer and we avoid grinding as much as possible, mostly due to speed. If you want to machine an engine block every 30 seconds, you cut using edged tools. The only components using grinders are cranks & cams and that's a finish grind for the last couple of microns. Which is slow because the wheel has to be dressed after each journal. So very little metal removal and a lot of dirt.
Modern high speed CNC machines are perfectly capable of milling, turning, boring without the need to grind. Tool changing is automatic and without stopping production which cannot be done with grinding wheels.
|Thread: ER collet chuck/mill incompatibility?|
I have an WM18, place a bar in hole provided in the spindle to hold it, there was a small tommy bar provided in the tool kit with my mill for this purpose, you should have one.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
an alternative supplier of clarke products is Site Box **LINK**
they are often cheaper that Machine Mart,
|Thread: a good quality milling vise for sale|
Looks the same as those sold by Aim tools **LINK**
for a lot less money
|Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?|
If you only want to spin a 50mm disc I would go for something like this: **LINK**
I have one of these and for the price its very good. Showing out of stock at the moment but Aim Tools seem to have a good turn around on stock and I expect its available from other places.
|Thread: Lathe chuck guards - how many folk use them?|
The precautions you take should be in proportion the risk they represent, for example if the chuck key is left in when a lathe is started, this could in extreme but foreseeable circumstances kill, certainly if it hit you full in the face. Then the precaution put in place to prevent this happening should be robust and infallible as possible, hence the interlocked chuck guard, sprung key etc. Remove these features and the risk increases. As discussed within this topic, the risk may be small for a person of experience that keeps to a routine regarding key removal, but the risk is still there and the consequences real.
I use a sprung chuck key, which I find a pain to use, but I know I’m not perfect and I do make mistakes even if rarely so I keep the spring in place. The chuck guard on my old Boxford is not interlocked but it is still on the machine and does get used when I deem there is a risk of flying swarf, coolant or I’m not confident that I can work within what I deem an acceptable risk to me or any family that come into the workshop (bringing tea hopefully).
This is more about levels of personal risk acceptance than whether the guard can be taken off or not, just be aware that you are not just accepting the risk but the consequences of it being realized if it goes wrong. Once it has gone wrong how serious the accident is up to the Gods.
|Thread: Tapping drill size|
I normally use the diameter minus the pitch for tapping drill sizes in metric threads i.e. 8mm - 1.25mm = 6.75 or round up to the nearest preferred size 6.8.
|Thread: What the he**|
I've had a rear spring which was found broken on the MOT, never noticed it. The car didn't drive any differently. The MOT man put it down to speed bumps, potholes and stiffer tyre sidewalls. Where cars are now much heavier and the tyres have become lower profile with very stiff sidewalls to cope with the weight, which results in little impact absorption from the tyre. The spring and damper takes the full force of any impact from small ripples to large potholes.
|Thread: Metric tap and die set|
I've used Presto which I found to be very good and durable: **LINK**
and as others have said the Volkel brand as well: **LINK**
Over the years I have tried a number of no brand or cheap taps & dies, some have been good some have been rubbish. Pot luck on the cheaper scale for what you get.
|Thread: Any interesting lathe projects for beginners?|
There is a large selection here: **LINK**
take your pick enough to fill a lifetime
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
I would glue that back together then fit a thick plate on the back drilled and tapped from the bottom, or mill the edge flat and make a new dovetail with an additional 'L' shape to allow attachment to the back by drilling & tapping, you could also drill into the edge and fit dowels in both cases.
|Thread: Tool post project|
I made one of these and 10 tool holders: **LINK**
works very well both on an Altas and latterly a Boxford AUD.
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
I have a set of basic workshop rules, not written down and not set in stone but I keep certain red lines I don't cross:
Do not wear gloves with rotating machines
Deburr all sharp edges
treat all cutting tools (all tools) with respect - wear gloves unless the tool is for a rotating machine and its easy to forget to take them off
wear gloves with sheet metal that have a decent level of cut resistance
always wear eye protection in the workshop no matter what I'm doing.
wear boots with toe protection, that 125mm milling vice will break all the bones in your foot if dropped (probably damage your foot even with boots on, its all about limiting the injury after the event if you can't prevent the event).
Use guards and swarf shields whenever possible - use common sense.
recheck clamps vices and tools are tightened/fitted correctly before pressing the start button.
avoid contact with oils, glues, paints. Read the warnings and apply that thing called common sense again.
Work within the limits of the machines and my skills, if I'm not sure seek advise or look it up. I try to avoid the 'I thought I knew what I was doing until it all went wrong'.
clean-up at the end of the work - the workshop is used for things other than my hobby & the kids or misses can nip in there to get something out of the freezer - to easy to step in sharp swarf or get it caught in shoes then walk it indoors where bare feet can find it. I don't like working in a mess either.
with these rules I don't miss workshop time though injury recovery or waiting in A&E
small cuts and bits of metal stuck in fingers still happen but I hope that I do enough to prevent any serious injury after all its a hobby and hobbies shouldn't hurt.
I do this as well, saves a lot of time finding stock.
|Thread: Searching for an Off-The-Shelf, Light-Duty, Rack & Pinion|
Hi Martin have a look at rack and pinion jacks such as these: **LINK**
or something like a green house window opener like these: **LINK**
|Thread: Angle grinders - Dangerous or not|
Yes like this one, **LINK**
makes an angle grinder look like a childs toy
|Thread: What started your interest?|
I've always had enjoyment from making and repairing machinery, I don't know where this came from because my father was useless at anything mechanical. I completed an apprenticeship with British Rail overhauling Diesel Electric & Electric locomotives at Stratford, Couple of the highlights of my apprenticeship was fitting the side rods on the flying Scotsman after it had been towed to the depot for royal train duties, then removing them so that it could be towed back to wherever it had come form. Also stripping Britannia down for a cracked frame to be welded.
Along with many engine swaps as the class 40, 45 & 50 loco's came out of use. (I mainly worked on 31, 37, 47, 85 & 86's, and the odd HST & 25)
When I left the railway I joined Fords Tractor manufacturing plant at Basildon, maintaining engine & hydraulic machining plant. But not to go on about my whole life story and get to the point I suppose my enjoyment of model engineering comes from the need to fix, improve and make machines, just a case of what gives me self satisfaction.
The opportunity to buy machines for home use only came along 3 years ago and started with modifying an old MK1 MR2 then progressed into model engines.
|Thread: Do you clean your workshop at the end of the day?|
I don't like walking about on swarf so I normally clean this up as go then if there is any more mess I clean up and put everything away at the end of the day, But I still can never find the tool or item I need at any given time until I stop looking and suddenly its in front of me.
|Thread: A close shave or why safety glasses are a must|
RPE doesn't work unless you are clean shaven, and I know that it is not practical to have RPE face fitted in a domestic situation but you should at least test your chosen RPE with a strong smell, you shouldn't be able to smell whatever your testing it against, if you can the RPE doesn't fit and isn't providing protection.
|Thread: Homebase files|
Just brought these in Homebase, not the best quality I know but usable with good handles and at 70p a file very good value:
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