Here is a list of all the postings William S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Turnbuckle manufacture|
Been there, I set up about a year ago to manufacture some brass load binders/turn buckles for a neighbour who is interested in Tamiya 1/14 scale RC lorrys.
Tracey tools supplied the left handed taps and dies, I used a 8ba as its an inbetween size:
Blanks ready for threading:
It was an exercise for me in setting up and using the Myfords capstan lathe attachments, This was worth it to me as I did 50 turnbuckles which meant 100 "eyes"
I used a roller box to reduce the the diameters on the body's and the "eyes"
This tool faced the components:
Centre drill and tapping drill:
I made these up for threading the bodys, I used these with the lathe in standard mode, only to keep the motor running the same direction. I kept on using the quick release collet chuck though. the die was held in a tailstock die holder and used in the same way.
This attachment was to drill the cross holes and thickness/flats, for the eyes, the "drill" is an old carbide endmill shank ground to a D bit. The jig enables the component to be rotated 180degrees to produce the the flat on both sides.
I hope that supplies food for thought, The last bit may not be any help as I am not sure on the ends you might require.
|Thread: BCA jigborer motor|
If it is the original 3 phase motor it should be a 2 speed, 380/400volt motor which I was told does not and will not run on a 240volt VFD. A VFD does not step-up the voltage so one would have to have a 3 phase supply to run that particular motor on a 380 volt VFD. A VFD would also limit the motor to one speed setting.
What I did was to get a 240volt single phase to 400v 3 phase converter made by Transwave. This enabled the machine to retain its original motor, which corresponds up with the speed chart.
They turn up relatively regularly on ebay, or you could buy new. They do seem to hold there value and if one acquires any other 3 phase equipment it should happily run it.
In my opinion I haven't had any call for the variable speed function the speed available from the motor and belt combinations has suited all the original tooling adequately.
I like the originality about the machine, okay the belt system may seem archaic but it does work well when set up correctly.
Just my experience, William.
|Thread: The Universal Jig & Gauge Company, Birmingham|
Oh yes I stand corrected, hadn't thought of that! looking up on graces guide there are some adverts with Birmingham 19 as the address.
The firm I work for had/have (unsure if we've still retained that exact one! Ill have a look on Monday), it a Jones and Shipman 540 surface grinder with the old company name on a little tag on the back of the machine with the old company name of Diagrit grinding company.
Unsure of the exact reason why a tag was placed on it, the fact that we still have it, were never machinery dealers, and Jones and Shipman being a British based company would indicate other uses to what has been said above. (I could be wrong!)
The picture above has a number 19 on the tag. The tag on our 540, I am unsure whether it has any numbers on it but could these tags been works machine numbers. I know all current grinding machines have a little plastic disc with a number which is to do with coolant records, but these do not have the company name.
Hope that is of any useful information
|Thread: How does one scale a worm gear?|
So armed with the above information I have had a go at hobbing a worm wheel.
Then I set the lathe the cut the hob, 64dp which meant swapping the input gear for a 33t. The hob screwcut, then some cutting edges formed with a slitting saw. Couldn't find a piece of 8mm silver steel so I used a piece of printer rod, I haven't harden it as it was only a test;
Final test achived the magic 180t (gashed with a slitting saw) and a single enveloping wheel;
So all in all not bad, totally doable I reckon, I will now refine the hob in silver steel, harden then have a go in a piece of metal!
I think I will now take the time to do some drawings of the BCA, I might start a thread when I come to do my model for those who are interested.
Many thanks for all the input
Edited By William S on 01/07/2020 00:11:15
Edited By William S on 01/07/2020 00:12:13
Thanks for all the replys. Neil that is straight to the point and just what I needed to hear, so thanks, I really couldn't see the wood for the trees when looking at the various websites!
Hopper; yes I had considered purchasing some proprietary gears but would like to follow the original table as closely as possible, its machined out of 1 casting (an extremely heavy one at that!!) also wouldn't mind having a go at hobbing! hence the reason for screwcutting.
Micheal; yes you are quite correct its 180 turns so therefore 180 teeth on the actual table. Thats working on to many machines thinking I know the machine at home well! Yes a definite undertaking but something I have always had in the back of my mind ever since acquiring the machine.
Andrew; Thats again just the answer I needed!
Clive; yes starting with a fine machine and then making it smaller isnt going to be a five minute job, not to worried about the scales/rulers, more racking my brain on how to hold cutters in an 1/8" spindle through hole. Its going to be a mk3, I quite like the idea of fighting a piece of sheet metal in many directions to form that guard!
Howard; Its a 180 tooth gear I decided wrongly that it was a 120. the calculation that allowed you to work the diameter out sounds handy to know though.
A quick question about hobbing is it always necessary to gash a gear prior to hobbing?
Thanks for all your help much appreciated
I have got this idea stuck in my head about making a working 1/3rd size BCA jig borer. (Blame the SMEE stand, that rather superb 1/3rd size ML7 at Ali Paly resparked this idea!)
The only stumbling block in the design in my head stage, is the worm gears that are on the machine, The fine feed mech is a bit in the future at the moment so not too worried presently!
So the worm gear that is perplexing me is the rotary table feed, It is a 120:1 ratio, as far as I can measure a pitch of 3.63 which seems to corresponed up with a No. 22DP (is DP for worm gears? cant seem to find a definitive answer) So if I have understood previous posts about scaling gears DP is multiplied by the scale factor.
So in my case that would equal 66DP. Now I would like to screw cut this worm if possible, however having a gearbox Super 7 I will have to use the trick of switching the input gear to achive a near as damn it metric pitch. The comprehensive charts I have from this site list a DP of either 64(1.245pitch) or 68(1.173pitch). Dividing the full size pitch gives a scale pitch of 1.210.
So my main jist here I wish to ask is will this slight variation in pitch affect the 120:1 ratio?
I hope this all makes some sense! I look forward to the replys.
Any other information I can supply if required.
|Thread: CNC Feasablity for small project?|
My dad has the plaster moulds for the lost wax casting process for all the standard accessories for the tool in discussion, The straight fence, the curved fence and the little locking screw.
These were used to complete his No.66 and his work colleagues tools too, (each person having what the other required!!)
Moulds were taken from each original part and used to produce wax copies which were subsequently cast. The castings were done by my grandad who had a non ferrous lost wax foundry (this has subsequently been wound up owing to ill health) If interested I might be able to produce and supply required waxes, if you or someone can find a foundary to be able to invest and cast the components.
Being a non ferrous foundry the ones my dad have are cast in bronze. Pictures of finished articles can be supplied if interested, (required tool is in a furlonged state!!)
One thing to note is with any casting process there is shrinkage and because these are moulded from originals, they will end up slightly smaller. However the part was increased before moulding on the critical area (the key that prevents rotation) to machine to size.
Hope this is any help.
Many thanks William.
|Thread: What Myford is this?|
It's definatly a Myford. A mini Kop model 1 a. Such a shame it's missing the vital bits that make it a hydraulic copy lathe, but they are mostly found incomplete. A rare piece of Myford history that I hope is brought by someone who can do something with it.
|Thread: Extreme turning|
Very nicely done as been said before can be done, if pushing the limit!
This is at where I work, not my job I was tasked with (bit daunting) Was glad I wasn't on my usual lathe (Harrison m300) which puts me directly in line with the line of fire if the job was to come out!
Definitely not a polished machine!
Sorry to hijack
Edited By William S on 01/06/2019 21:01:43
|Thread: BCA Jig Borer MK3|
The beginning of July saw us acquiring a used, if a little abused MK3 BCA Jig Borer
All ready being put to use!
It came with; the original cabinet and light, currently in the house as a TV stand as we don't have room for it in the shed! a full set of imperial collets and some duplicates, 2 drill chucks, a large and a small boring head, A Sigma Jones table, and other bits and pieces as well.
When I say used/abused from what I can gather it was used by a company specialising in aluminium cnc work so the BCA mostly being used for its intended purpose as a drilling machine as opposed to a mill, The most wear being in the up and down feed, A good strip down, clean and adjustment, has meant that it is all tight with no real issues.
Now the main part that we require is the belt tensioning spring, as ours is missing, We have been in contact with tenga engineering as there website states there were the original manufactures of the MK3s, we needed another part which they supplied but they did not have any info on said spring, so now we ask here.
If a BCA owner would be able to give us the relevant information on the spring it would be very much appreciated, E.G.. O.D, I.D, overall length, number of coils and wire gauge it would be very helpful.
Thanks in advance
|Thread: Yet another what is it|
The nearby car boot sale turned up a few bits for the workshop;
A pair of large V block stirrups (is that the right name?) No makers name so could they be apprentice pieces? There was no sign of the V blocks so redundant I suppose, still might be useful.
Also a Chinese 80mm self centering 4 jaw lathe chuck minus the other set of jaws, for £12 might come in useful one day, would have to come up with a backplate on the Myford but it does fit the Axminster sc2 mini lathe with minimal run-out so might remain on there just in case!
Then there is this item, was wondering if anybody can shed a light on its use would appear to be a jig to hold something but what I am unsure;
The pin is spring loaded
the vertical line is a V
And this is the clamping knob on the rear of the tool.
It looks to be home made for quite a specific task, it came from the same box as the drill chuck and V block stirrups if that helps in anyway.
There was also flexispeed meteor 2 lathe there in quite original condition with the vertical slide, fixed steady, 3 4 way tool posts, little drill chuck and a few other bits, didn't ask about the price but I can think it wouldn't of been cheap if they had done a bit of research! (they were also dealers)
Then there was a G.Boley watchmakers lathe in its box and looked quite complete. However the £400 asking price is going to put quite a few people off.
Many thanks for reading and any ideas on that unknown part would be good.
|Thread: Homemade collet chuck alignment issues|
Thanks for all of your advice and help.
I found a 55 degree internal threading tool so what i shall do is to set it back up indicate the bore that I have machined to get that perfect, then set the lathe up to cut a 12 tpi thread, line the tool up with the existing thread and spin the lathe by hand to true the thread up to the bore. This is my fault for not indicating the original bore in the first place this is where I think the issues is.
However, this is currently put on hold by an issue that we did not know about, our lathe in its current form can only cut 2,4,5,6,7 BA threads accurately! This was discovered when I set up an exterior threading tool, lined it up with the one of the threads on the lathe spindle, selected 12 tpi on the gearbox and then with the half nuts engaged spun the spindle by hand. It was then very clear the fact that over the threaded portion of the spindle the tool had misaligned by one thread (the tool had been retracted so was not damaging the spindle) this was traced back with the help from this thread- http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=125630 the first picture with the arrow shows the gear that on our lathe is smaller, instead of the original 24 tooth gear ours is a 20 tooth. Whether this has been done intentionally or by accident we shall never know (going off of the charts lower down the linked page says that a 20 tooth gear will allow a 2,4,5,6,7 BA thread to be cut without the expensive metric change gears, we also put a 2 BA tap in the chuck and did the same procedure as described above and it lined up perfectly)
So I now need to purchase a 24 tooth gear to get it back to original, If I hadn't of checked it now that collet chuck would definitely be scrap by now!
I hope that makes sense
Thanks for your replies, no I did not check any face with a dial test indicator, I'm now paying the price for it!. Now that has been brought to my attention that would of made the most sense. I assumed that by turning the register bore to the collet taper would of ensured the best accuracy for our machine but in hindsight this isn't the case. It did look to run quite true before I did any machining but that is no excuse.
Regarding the collets, they are the same set that we use in our mill and we have no problems with run-out there.
The Myfords spindle runs within 0.02mm on both the register faces and the spindle morse taper, when the mandrel was machined it was marked and was always reinserted in the same position, so I can not see any reason for terrific run-out on that
In the picture of the collet chuck it isn't apparent but there is a chamfer between the 2 register faces, albeit it was a bit small, I have just increased its size and it has appeared to make no difference. it is now slightly larger than all of our other chucks which have no issue.
I have also just found out that if I lightly tap the collet chuck with the palm of my hand on the collet nut side it will close up the gap, so it appears to rock on something. when this gap is closed up the inner collet taper has about 0.07mm of run out which is a lot better than with the large gap but still isn't as precise as it should be. (I know that re-machining the taper will improve this reading but I wish to get to the bottom of the apparent rocking first).
Could this apparent rocking be caused by not setting it up initially with a dial indicator, which has made the thread off slightly?
last July we brought a homemade Myford ER32 collet chuck off of the well known auction site. It looked to be well made but was made for a early Myford as the register diameter was smaller (i believe they were smaller please correct me if I'm wrong) This didn't really worry us as we would just bore it out.
Well it has sat untouched since July and having assured ourselves that the lathe was as level as we could get it, we decided to have a go at machining the collet chuck to fit our lathe. Well first we finally made the morse taper mandrel to use our tailstock die holder without a drill chuck and the original aluminium mandrel. We purchased the soft stub 2mt arbour 2+ years ago for use on the original mini lathe, but we never got around to machining it to use.
Then using the die holder mandrel the collet chuck was set up like above, this to us makes the most sense as we are turning the important bit to the actual collet taper. Also it allowed the whole assembly to be removed without being to bulky to test the fit. We did mark the 2mt mandrel so it went back in the same place each time.
Boring it out was very nice, went very uneventful, no issues. Also skimmed the rear face to be perfectly square with the bore. Now here comes the problem, when the collet chuck is screwed onto the Myford spindle nose it goes on nice no tight spots all good, then when it reaches the rear alignment face only half of it actually touches it, the other half is about 0.04mm away. This gap is multiplied over the whole length of the chuck and workpiece so the run-out is terrible.
The spindle has no detritus on it nor does the collet chuck. the depth of the bore is plenty, replicating our other chucks which have no issues with alignment. The collet chuck doesn't appear to be contacting any part of the spindle which it shouldn't and it always has the gap in the same place, every time it is screwed on. It does decrease the tighter it is screwed on but I'm afraid that it remain on if I attempt to tighten it up any more! None of our other chucks require much force to put them on.
I would like to get the 2 surfaces to contact all the way round but I can not see what is preventing it, the only thing that may be the cause is if the thread inside is off somehow. I Accept that once these 2 surfaces are in full contact truing up the collet taper bore will ensure it is as concentric to the lathe spindle as possible.
I hope that all makes sense, many thanks for reading and any ideas would be a great help
|Thread: Myford super 7 rear swarf tray.|
John and Emgee, thanks for your suggestions that is food for thought I like the idea of fibreglass over the cardboard.
Joseph, that looks smart, stops oil from the chucks decorating the wall behind!
Hillclimber I don't believe our motor has an oiler, the previous owner put a 3 phase vfd on the lathe, I will check.
Martin that is a good idea, no rattles and quick access.
David we fail that award the bench/rest of shed is a complete pigsty!
Kwil yep we use old baking trays, we are going to modify one to go under the gearbox to catch all of that swarf next!
Thanks for the ideas, lots to think about now!
I suppose it's about time I show what I've been up to for the last few months, I know most of you don't bother with cleaning your machines down after use, but me and my dad do, its a bit fussy and pointless but hey ho! The only problem with the Myford is cleaning it down takes nigh-on an hour+. On the mini lathe the cleaning down process is quite easy because of the rear tray. so i decided to mock a rear tray up for the Myford.
Ideally I wanted it to fulfil certain requirements, these being;
-Not to block the plug sockets behind the belt tension lever, yet still permit the easy use of said lever.
-Still be able to use the myford cover
-Allow easy swarf clearance
-Look half presentable
-Be easy to remove
Here's what I came up with:
Plenty of clearance for socket and lever
The Myford cover still fits
Swarf can just be brushed from the carriage into the tray, then into the awaiting dustpan.
View from the end showing how it's fastened to the rear of the bed using the tapped holes for the taper turning attachment etc. This also permits easy removal of said tray. Only 3 fixings needed.
The only bit that needs a bit of fettling, the swarf has the whole tray to land in and most of it ends up down this tiny little gap!
Doesn't look too horrendous either!
And it works!
We'll use it in its cardboard form to iron out any problems then it probably be cut out of aluminium. which then will rattle like hell!
Any thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated
Thanks for looking
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2017)|
You lucky person to acquire such a simple yet elegant machine there John, something that has a heap of character yet will function for many years to come. would also be something that would fulfil my needs perfectly, suppose I'll keep looking then!
|Thread: Brass paint|
I belive humbrol makes a brass effect paint, not sure if its part of the "metalcote" line of paints I have had good results with the steel effect paint. Also brass effect paint appears to be offered by Hammerite.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Today (well yesterday looking at the time!) I made up 2 knurled 0ba thumb screws on the myford
I'm quite impressed with the quality of the knurl, considering the cheapness of the knurler. we could never get it to produce a good knurl on the mini lathe, and machining on the Myford is an absolute joy compared to the mini lathe!
They are to plug up the 2 holes on the super 7's carriage to stop the swarf from filling the holes up. fun little exercise which I'm quite pleased with the result.
Thanks for reading
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