Here is a list of all the postings William S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: BCA Jig Borer MK3|
Possibly not going to be seen, but I just found your post Chris Cartwright, I may do a pm and see if that gets through also.
Regards your query's, the down feed, (I think that's what you are talking about) my first thought is the leadscrew is not set up correctly, there should be 2 thrust bearings either side of the bearing block just below the ball handle, this is adjusted (on a mk3 mark 2s are the same I belive though) by undoing the top lock nut and nipping the cone nut up inside the ball handle, I use a pair of circlip pliers in the 2 holes. (I can supply pictures if required, even better if you could supply pictures)
Another thing that I can think of is the slide may be set up a bit tight, on mine any backlash is really taken care of by gravity, if the symptoms of 5mm present themself when winding the slide back up the, I would say it is too tight, (gravity should be pulling the slide against one side of the nut.)
The manual does say to lock the unused slides when milling so with you locking it there's nothing wrong with that!
Regards the rotary table, sorry if you have already checked this but are the locking bolts loose, is the table able to free spin with the worm disengaged?
The slide has to be wound off to remove the rotary table ,the rod holder block may have to be removed first to allow the rotary table lock bolt too be unobstructed. Turned upside down to reveal 3 socket head bolts that secure the taper spigot to the bottom of the table (remember to mark the orientation of this in relation to the table.)
I hope you find this and it makes sense. Any other help please ask, if you can supply pictures that would be great.
|Thread: What tool do I need? I need to measure the radius of a tiny fillet on a 90° edge.|
To be honest, to measure stuff sub 1mm you are looking in to optical equipment to get the best idea of what you are looking at. All what I could suggest has already been put forward.
My first inclination was shadowgraph with appropriate screen/mask, the measuring loupe would be the next best thing (cheaper but one would struggle with wide parts the ends only being measurable)
Then there is a Mitutoyo contracer: https://www.mitutoyo.com/products/form-measurement-machine/contracer/
That would be the most accurate and easiest method and also the most expensive.
I really don't see the point to all of this, its really only a break-edge from what I can make out from what John has described so doesn't need to be quantified. The works drawings I work too have break all edges in the notes section which is enough for us employee to work out that they don't want huge great chamfers(would be specified if that was required)
As Robert Butler has said through out this post, a set of rad gauges along the Moore and Wright pattern would suffice if one has to be really pedantic, although as others have said the size required doesn't really exist. They could be lazer/water jet cut but the kerf has to be thought about.
Just my thoughts that will no doubt be disregarded
|Thread: BCA belt replacement|
My BCA along with a few other machines run with the cheap polyurethane belt available on ebay, and other retailers I guess.
I join it with an old knife heated with a blowlamp, press the 2 ends either side of the blade and slide them both off together simultaneously to stick together. This does require a bit of practice. The knife only needs to be warm enough to melt the material, I used to get the knife red hot and when the plastic touched it almost seemed to boil, evidently this did not work at all well.
Another thing I have found, if you are trying to repair the initial joint forget it! cut about 10mm either side and start from scratch, same if the new joint doesn't work.
The expensive name brand stuff came with my first BCA and I really struggled to get a good join with it it never seemed to fully adhere to one another, I put this down to being quite old, peoples views above seem to reflect my experience. Also my Alexander D bit grinder came with an old name brand poly belt on it, it subsequently broke, I repaired it (I didn't have any new 4mm stuff so needs must) and it subsequently broke again and whipped me in the chest! (which was quite a painful experience) I doubled up a length of cheap 2mm belt and its still in use today!
I would strongly advise not to use a metal joiner on the BCA, it was designed for an "endless loop" so I would be concerned with wear on the pulleys etc, also I cant seem to find any larger diameter than 5mm, I use 8mm on my BCA it seems to fit nicely in the grooves and only slips when I am using a slitting saw on the lowest rpm( no bad thing really).
I hope that helps
As a side note is there anyone here who uses the genuine original belt material? I have one from home and workshop machinery and its too short for my MK3 (it was described as a BCA mk3 original belt) I suspect its from a MK2. Its an odd material that wants to coil it self up because of the way its made.
|Thread: Steam engine toy with machines|
Just clicking randomly on the lathes.co.uk site I have just found this:**LINK**(quite interesting to do when your at a loose end!)
They seem to resemble what are shown in your link/pictures. Sadly, not much help I can offer on your other questions though!
Nice little pieces though.
|Thread: Getting Myford oiled up|
Like Martin has illuded too above could your ''original'' flush mount oilers be a previous owners ''upgrade'' I can not find another ML7 on the web with flush mount oilers there (apart from Steve Jordan on Youtube and he is a well known ML7 ''pimper outer''
My 1974 Super 7 has late type screw in fittings all round (apart form the 3 oil cups), my quite early ML7 has the early type of again, screw in nipples. Maybe try digging the flush mount oilers out, and seeing if there is the remnants of a thread in in there?
Does having 2 of the same gun with different ends push the boat out to far, they are after all 2 different types of bearings so really require 2 different grades of oil(slideway/linear, rotary), which might be what the person who possibly changed them out in the first place thought, Low and behold it could well of been that ''small boy apprentice'', using his ''little'' noggin.
I wish people would stop critiquing Myfords 70+ year old design choices. They were not designed for todays heavy handed users who want to produce everything at 4000 rpm in -10seconds. Its mostly a hobby, enjoy using your brain to improve the not so good bits, its what I do.
|Thread: PG Optical dividing head|
This is a sales brochure for a 3 second version, but its exactly the same mechanically as my 6 second version, its quite interesting reading, it explains the operation better than I have in previous posts! the Internal diagram especially, this I acquired last week from eBay (again!) It has already provided the rather useful info about the lamp ,6v 18watt.
The Projectorscope 10/250 is actually something my work has on the floor under a bench in the grinding department, it hasn't been used in the 3 years since I started my apprenticeship. Hmm do I have a use for it?!
(quite a difficult thing to photograph)
So in the end I went the LOCA route because I'm a cheapskate!, (it was extremely simple aswell) I also didn't want a huge great quantity left over.
I went with one of the many cheap kits available on eBay, The UV torch was immediately dismantled and jerry rigged to my bench to power supply, the 3 AAA I scrounged only managed to barely illuminate 3 LEDS anyway. This also enabled me to knock up a quick tripod to hold it about 20mm off the bench.
So I experimented with some 1981NOS glass microscope slides(well that's what the boxed wrapped in cellophane said)
The result was a success and gave me confidence to risk the original! It went very well, As can be seen I just used the original brass cell as the line-up ring, the doublet was a relatively good fit anyway (they were the same dia, the lenses Michael) It also meant I didn't have to worry about peening it back it as the glue seems to be holding them in. I cleaned them, a couple of drops of LOCA, place together, wriggled them about to spread the adhesive and dropped it in the cell, lightly pressed it home with my thumb and placed under the UV light. left for about 5 mins, come back to one optically clear doublet.
Reassembly went well, I screwed the brass cell Doublet fully home as it was that way upon the initial dismantle, the glass ring was installed and then the "first" lens was adjusted until the 0.2mm markings were in focus, then the black tube was rotated to get the markings in the right place on the minutes scale, the Baker object mounting thread is off centre to the black tube. The mirrors were not disturbed when I dismantled to preserve the original setting positions, I glad I did this as I would not know where to start to get these back in adjustment!
I then following Clive's advice, "clocked" the glass ring by having it clamped very loosely just pushed it about until the markings all the way around were in the same place on the minutes scale.
Well there we go, I am now going to try and look in to rectifying the minutes scale, Graticules optics is who I will try first, Now that I know it does actually work. And see about a permanent light unit.
|Thread: More Q's about surface finish.|
I believe this may explain: The Whitaker ring(bottom paragraph)
Source: Workshop Technology Part three, W.A.J. Chapman 1965 reprint.
|Thread: PG Optical dividing head|
Well a stroke of luck following Rogers advice:
Well good for the lens not so good for my finger, I decided after pressing the doublet out I would press my finger in to the threaded end of the body, a nice gouge and a flap of skin is what happened!
I turned up this plastic holder to support the brass body (it is tapered inside!) the brass body was a good fit.
This was the set up in the lathe, using the lever operated tailstock to gently press the doublet out, It might of just been glued in as it was rather sudden when it broke free. Also I can't see any evidence on the brass body inside of it ever being burnished in, although I cant be certain, its probably so small!
This is the little brass pusher I lined it with electrical tape, after turning the front face convex so just the very outside was pushing on the glass lens.
I am partway though cleaning these 2 up with meths, they are both glass and coming up rather well, I am now looking in to reassembly, how best is it to proceed in your opinions?
Thanks again for all the information that has been given thus far and I look forward to hearing more.
The thread is undercut, the picture above shows it just about. The part that would usually unscrew has a perfect flat face where I would expect to see the start of the thread. It does seem a bit odd to put a thread in but not put it all the way down to hold the lens in.
What would be the process to “unburnish” the lens?
As can be seen Its not clear like the other 2 lenses(below) the thing I cant work out is how they come out of the brass body, the front looks to be machined to that shape and the back doesn't look to unscrew, what's peoples opinions?
I hope these pictures explain.
The previous thoughts are much appreciated, that link to the graticules optics Michael is very handy, they are actually local to me so I may be seeking there expertise on the damaged Minutes scale.
Edited By William S on 15/07/2021 20:00:57
Here’s some pictures of the “non existent” markings!
I think now my issue is some staining on the middle lens of the magnifying lens. It’s marked C Baker 1/2” 14x. If any one can suggest how that comes apart, I’ve unscrewed it in to 3 parts but I think there’s 2 glass parts together and moisture is trapped between them making it almost impossible to see through. I’ll get some more pictures it’ll explain better than I can say in words!
I do understand the need to clock the ring Clive, there is putty which was/is acting as a locator, but I may replace this as it’s very delicate, Do you think the markings were done concentrically to the ring o.d/I.d or do I need to be creative? The ring had to come off to disassemble it, there was no way around that, I was very reluctant to remove the ring due to getting it back concentric.
|Thread: Mystery micrometer|
I too have a similar micrometer, and it’s use to me is an unknown:
like has been said above they both appear “user made” mine has been nickel plated so must of been a lull in production in the factory! or more likely done as an advanced apprentice piece
Mine came when I brought my BCA jig borer, from the widow of the previous owner who designed and made one clock in his retirement, and was a specialised welder on oil rigs for his living. Wether that leads any to any clues I have no idea.
The box on mine has been machined from a solid block of Perspex and fully polished which is more impressive almost than the actual tool!
I hope we do find out it’s purpose, it’s intriguing.
|Thread: PG Optical dividing head|
A quick update:
The prize goes to Gerry for suggesting that the markings might be practically invisible to the naked eye, which they almost are! They are absolutely miniscule, how they were done 40 years ago is blowing my mind!
All markings on that ring are present and correct, I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow on the shadowgraph at work, hopefully I can then get some pictures as well.
I found them by playing about with a little led bulb, I was just shining it down the hole and turning the handle when in the corner of the readout I just saw the flash of a very feint line and what looked like numbers above. I then twiddled the handle back and forth and could just see a few lines. You would not belive the relief that was. I then spent all day at work eager to get back as shortly after finding the lines I then subsequently lost them again! When I got home I took the glass ring off and in holding it up to a strong light I could just make out the blobs of the numbers and lines, all the way around the ring.
Under my Prior dissecting microscope I can just about read each number! Although I don't have any of the actual magnifying hoods so I am unsure of the magnification, I will try as I said with the shadowgraph and post my findings.
Hello all, thanks for all your thoughts,
Yes Micheal, I have come across that, although that one has a resolution of 3 seconds as opposed to mine which is a 6 second resolution. I think they just engraved another line on the dial. That is about the extent of online information!
Alan, and old mart, it was worth a try, I had a go today with some graphite it sadly didn’t highlight any etched markings so I don’t think it was previously etched.
Making water slide transfers up is something I have contemplated, however accuracy is my biggest worry.
Chris, you might be correct, I did a bit of online digging they appear to be under a slightly different name of PGT Ceewrite/Ceewrite engineering Ltd. I will give them a call and find out. Just quickly glancing google for PG hadn’t found much.
I like the idea of laying it out on a large scale, that is something worth thinking about. It was doable 40 years ago so it should be possible in this modern day and age!
Thanks again, I’ll keep you posted with what I find out.
However a bit of dismantling, WD40 and a razor blade, most rust was scraped off ending up with:
Not too bad if I say so myself! The only damaged I subjected it to was the cracked casting around the locking knob, this was not my finest hour and I am quite peeved with myself. The rust hasn't eaten in to the base metal really it had almost just furred up like scale in a kettle so was quite easily removed.
Now mechanically it is in good condition there is very little wear, helped by the rather simple yet clever oiling system.
Optically however it is challenged. Its internal soaking has dissolved what I believe were water slide transfers on the glass(or could they of been something else?), The glass ring around the spindle is totally void of any markings, this was like this on me dismantling it, however the minutes scale on the was in ''good'' condition because it was sandwiched between to pieces of glass however on me separating them to clean the water staining between has meant I have disturbed the very brittle transfer and ended up with:
So basically it is useless as it stands,
How do you think it is best saved?
Could one get water slide transfers made up?
Could lazer engraving be a contender?- My worry would be precision with this method, I.E., set up in the machine etc. There is a local firm who I am thinking of talking to.
The glass ring I was thinking about setting it up on the my pantograph on a rotary table with a diamond drag tool in the spindle and scoring the glass. Again though my worry is actually getting it right as it all depends on getting them exactly 1 degree apart! (or does it?)
Or is it a really specialist task? Would a company who produces microscopes be worth contacting.
So there we go, please fire away with your thoughts! I look forward to hearing them
Edited By William S on 03/07/2021 20:53:53
Just after winning this piece of vintage kit, I said that it is going to be the best £134 or worst £134 I have probably ever spent! I'll let you decide:
So that what it looked liked inside upon arrival!, it was sold as being sat in a shed for a few years, seemed to be an uninsulated shed! The constant temperature changes and being basically a sealed unit means it has basically sweated inside, and ended up in the mess as seen above.
|Thread: Availability of a T33 & T34 Myford Change Gears?|
I got my 2 from the “new Myford” at Ali Pali ME exhibition a couple of years ago, so check there website.
Have you found the comprehensive chart of most combinations on the other post about this topic? I think it is on the second page, it’s the best thing I think I have found! The few times I have needed this mod it has been for some really odd stuff that would not otherwise be possible.
Hope that helps
|Thread: Spiral adjustable reamers|
Sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, I've never used an adjustable ream (yet!) so I wont comment on that topic,
However the firm I work for produce things called direxpander reams:
That link explains what they are, diamond expanding reams. I am not sure if these would work for your application as I don't really know what diameters you are working with, the range that we commonly make is 6-60mm however I am pretty sure we have done some tiny ones, they just work on a slightly different principle.
There are Chinese copy's to be found on eBay, so one could experiment. The ones we make usually have a lead in, a parallel sizing section and a lead out. This means they are quite labour intensive to produce (all finished on manual Jones and Shipman cylindrical grinders) and so are in no way cheap, the Chinese ones at the cost they seem to be might not made to the highest standards so take that as you will.
I hope that is of some use
|Thread: Quick release collet chuck clevis|
Sorry for the crude sketch, its got all the info I think you should need! Like I said on the drawing the holes may be smaller depending on your generation of chuck as shown bellow there appears to have been at least 2 iterations of it!
Mine appears to have been welded at some point, although I think its just threaded now as I detailed above
Shows the 2 different versions
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