Here is a list of all the postings john brown 17 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stanley Blade Lathe Finishing Tool|
Well l want one ,wonder what the price will be ? ort yet another tool to make,happy new year to you all.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
That is fine work you are doing jason,well done am following along .
|Thread: Gear cutting|
When cutting gears,is it best to round a couple of times to get the depth or in one pass ,they are 48 dp gears ,in brass .
Thanks bill ,l feel a right fool now why l did not think of looking on there in the first place, thats great they also list the chain in 3mm ,it looks stong so think l will go for the 3mm,again thanks.
Hi all ,am in need of help finding some chain for the steering on my build,l am after 24 inches of 1/8" plain link chain,have mailed a few firms but none have it in stock and do not know when they will get more,then a couple say they can supply but have to buy a whole reel of it,so am stuck,theres lots to be had in the states but none happy to ship to the uk ,a mate of mine said he will post on the HMEM site for me to se if anyone can help there,so any thoughts please.
|Thread: Tailstock indexing|
Thanks hopper ,my barrel now has a scale,likie you said simple to do.
Thanks bandersnatch l agree am quite happy with the scale on my southbend ,but there is no scale on my myfords tailstock barrel ,so that has always been a problem,mybe l should try an get a a s/h barrel for it,but that can wait till l have got a degree in rocket science.
Brought a book the model engineer vol.100 jan - june 1949 ,and am reading my way through it an laughing at the ads for the prices then ,but have found a bit about making a indexing dial for the tailstock,has any one made one of them ,l seem to get trouble drilling holes to the right depth ,and in the book say that you can get the depth dead accurate,he worked out for the gradutions by the thread on the barrel being 1/8" pitch then 125 divisions = 1 division being 1 thou,perhaps one of you clever people can say what l would need for the ml7 ie divisions.
Well with luck l have sorted them out,striped them apart ,and junked the washers and have made new rubber ones,as for the needle a good clean with wire wool an a small tap to seat it and its has been fine for hours now so time will tell,would l buy them again nooooooooo .
Paul that is the type of oiler that is giving all the problems ,will give them one more try with howards tip but after that its bin time ,and back to a wick type.
Well thank you for that info,yes enough is enough with the dam things,l thought buying new ones would work out ok ,but not so,so the plan now is to make up a extending tube with the 1/8" bsp thread ,put longer wicks in the oilers and use them ,but will put a hole in the tube so l can give the bearings a fresh shot of oil before l start work ,the wicks should then work ok ,they never gave any problems on the atlas and when that moved to another home the bearings were still good.
I am just about fed up with the myford oilers,the the old ones leaked out over night and the new ones are not a lot better an they were not cheap,l have a couple of wick type ones that were on an old atlas ,yes they drip all the time but can get a couple of days from them ,any thoughts on this please ,or make a better type ?
|Thread: Silver solder|
Thanks for that ,will buy from them ,is the low tem silver solder ok on my copper boiler?,l read the higher tem are good for joining like brass to steel etc ,but just want copper to copper or brass to brass.
Can you please tell me the most popular size of silver solder rods please,did have some 1mm rods for some small bits,but am getting into now soldering bigger parts like the boiler ,is 1.5 the way to go .
|Thread: Slitting saw|
Well it looks like the rough price to sharpen slitting saw blades is from a couple of firms is between 50 pence and £1 per tooth ,then there is the vat etc ,so may well just run them in to the ground an mybe have a play to edge them up a bit ,l do not know what they are like but the ones made in china are not that dear and l se rdg do a 4" that seem decent money, but thanks for your advice.
Yes did have a look on utube , they all seem to use a service grinder or fancy grinding set up ,am thinking that l will have to se if l can find a firm to sharpen them,or if there is anyone on here willing to do them at a fair price.
With slitting saw blades,l have some nice 4" and 60 tooth 6" dia blades that run very true but they are now so blunt it is hard work .Do you good people on here send them away to get them sharpened ?, l know that the smaller blades are not a bad price so would think it would be cheaper to buy new ones ,but my bigger ones l would like to keep.
|Thread: Steam whistle|
Many thanks Howard ,have just found a drawing an plan of one of LBSC models called AJAX ,the whistle on that is just right size ways ,yes l have to build it but more learning,thanks again .
|Thread: Water pump|
That is a nice looking pump you have there well done,l remember a few years ago now at a tractor show there was a chap there who had a model steamer that he was filling the water with a converted car fuel pump ,he just had a small handle fixed to the arm that used to run off the car cam ,wish now l had paid more time to looking at it ,mind it seemed to work very well and a cheap way to make a pump,so just a thought.
|Thread: Steam whistle|
Being such a grotty day ,l have been thinking on the last of the bits l will need for my model ,and l will need a steam whistle looking about the net etc the one that looks to be size wise any good is the mamod type as the others being bigger would look out of place,do you good people think that type would do please.
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