Here is a list of all the postings Phil Boyland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Bed for Power Cross Feed|
Only difference is in the saddle, apron and lead screw I believe.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 - Cross Slide Problem|
I wouldn't panic just yet, highly likely it will just need some of the screws adjusting.
Using the Link above, start with screws 3, 9 and 11 and see how you fare. 9 & 11 are shimmed (item 6) and the bed may have worn enough to warrant some play which can be overcome easily with thicker shims. Myford do them at a price, or you can buy a selection of thin brass sheet* cheaper and do it yourself. Let us know how you get on.
* I did this on mine buying a pack of 1, 2, 5 & 10 thou
For the dial, undo screw 39, remove the handle and dial and give it all a clean, its probably just gummed up or been done too tight. It just spins on the cross slide screw so nothing to go wrong as such.
Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:01:32
Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:06:35
Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:08:29
Edited By Phil Boyland on 22/05/2019 08:08:47
|Thread: Myford Clutch Lever fouls the Belt Cover|
Something sounds wrong to me with what you have described as on mine (84 green model) the drive is disengaged when lever to the right. Even when engaged it does not foul on belt cover.
Edited By Phil Boyland on 14/05/2019 09:18:14
|Thread: Steel identification|
If you can file a few bits off I can chemically analyse them in work and let you know compositions, should help you narrow down the possibilities.
|Thread: Distinguishing Test for Phosphor Bronze|
I think they work on X Ray fluorescence principle(XRF) where as I am working on the Energy Dispersive X ray principle(EDX). I don't user the former, but you can only look at a whole sample with XRF so if you have several different materials present, it would not tell you the alloy just a % of the elements present that you would not be able to classify. This is more suited to samples you know already are only one material.
With EDX you can pin point a particular particle in a sample and get its composition. Excellent for jumbled up metallic debris in a engine filter for example..
Ok cool, will look out for a message.
Composition can be measured by measuring the x-rays coming off the sample whilst it's bombarded with electrons. This is a useful by product of the electron stream being used to create an image. Will send you a few screenshots too if you like as it always looks fascinating.......well to me at least. Science nerd!!
If you can file some off and post it I can check the chemical composition on our electron microscope in work for you.
All for free
|Thread: Mk1 Super 7 - What colours ?|
When I restored my ML7 I went for deep red down the centre, which I thought looked the business. Also went for the same red on my late model green Super7 when I restored that. I'm not a fan of the yellow personally and if you plan to keep it, go for whatever you like I say.
|Thread: Myford large bore S7 apron dismantleing|
There is a grub screw that holds it in place located on the left hand side of the apron. It’s quite deep down so you can’t actually see the screw itself, but just put an Allen key down and it will locate. From memory it’s about 3/16” but dont quote me on that. You only need to undo it a few turns as it sits in a groove in the cam body to stop it pulling out.
Edited By Phil Boyland on 20/10/2018 19:36:48
Edited By Phil Boyland on 20/10/2018 19:37:32
|Thread: Stud threading|
No need to turn diameter, just put a small chamfer on the end and use a split die at widest setting, then after first cut, run it down thread again with adjusting screw loosened off slightly. Check with a nut after each pass to check the fit.
|Thread: Motor wiring|
I can take a pic inside of it if required.
Edited By Phil Boyland on 05/06/2018 22:47:04
The control switch is a Myford 85766, the same a Clive Hartlands in this thread.
Edited By Phil Boyland on 05/06/2018 22:46:35
Thanks Otley, will give it a try and let you know findings. I do have a reverse switch in the unit.
Will all 4 connections in my control switch be used or just 2 of them? (ignoring earth for now)
Another question, my ML7 had a 5 wire cable going to the control switch, so again following from the diagram, do I only need 3 core for this motor?
Thanks for the replies, so a few more questions,
I presume I fit the bare ends under the corresponding posts, then fit my new flex on top of them?
Following the logic of the diagram, which of the wires will then go to Z1 of the control switch as there isn’t one in the motor.
Hi there. Gotten myself a Super 7 and the motor wasn't attached so trying to work out what to do. I've kept my original stand and controller, a Myford one with emergency stop and the contacts are U1, U2, Z1 & U2 + an Earth.
I am after some advice on which motor wire is which as a tad confused on getting it plummed in. I'm not an electrician obviously, but am competent once I get instructions from someone wiser than me
It's a Tyco/Crompton 240V and the pic shows exactly how it came to me, apparently unused. Cap isn't attached currently but I know the Red/Green wires are for that and top post is Z2.
Thanks in advance
|Thread: Brass bar , 55 mm - ?supplier|
Live steam models in Little Eaton do 2.25” at £6.36 per inch.
|Thread: Wonky tapped threads|
Ah ok, wont do that then
I will do more testing this eve, got bloody cold last night so came in from the man cave, but confident the collective have nailed down the problem.
I should have said first off I am using the correct tapping drills to, not just a close match. That was drilled(pardon the pun) into me during apprentice training days.
Thanks all for contributing, Much happier now. As daft as this sounds, I don't recall ever fitting anything to a tapped hole that I made during my training, so this phenenom most likely existed then, but just never noticed as I was a spotty teenanger with my head in the clouds.
Ok bit of an update. Checked tailstock barrel wobble at various positions and the most I got was 0.002". I think when I did it before I had'nt clamped it to the bed. I drilled a hole last eve and noticed that it is slighlty bigger than the drill, so a 5mm hole gave a tiny bit bigger, so possible the wobble is coming from a shallow thread? Not noticed before but when the drill starts cutting it does wander a slight amount till it starts cutting, worse of course with thinner drills. I always start hole with a centre drill. Tempted to try a spotting drill but not convnced that would stop the wander.
i tapped a hole with first tap in the drill chuck last eve as was suggested a few posts back and that did produce much better results.
So my conclusion is slightly off size holes and my gorilla style hand tapping are the issue. Problem can be almost elimianted by taking care and using Tap N°1 in drill chuck. When possible I may try an undersize drill to get a tighter fit. Getting somewhere anyway I think
Yeah was thinking I could partially tighten the barrel clamp and see if that helps.
I agree RE. the threaded type mandrel, however, a tapped thread should give you a reasonable location I believe. The wobble I am seeing is milimeters out.
I've tried new and old taps by the way and does not make a difference.
Have a few things more to try this eve so hopefully might get an answer soon.
Thanks everyone for throwing out ideas, much appreciated,
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