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Member postings for james huxstep

Here is a list of all the postings james huxstep has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Minnie 1"
22/04/2020 08:43:56

Hi chaps!

I am fast approaching the front wheels.I have not done the rear wheel first so I have no experience on the process.

What wood would you suggest for creating the jig?and what type of tool to use?

Any tips on turning the ally cast rims?

Next job ATM is milling the spoke recesses in the front wheel hubs.

I've made a jig for the rotary table to keep the alignment .One end spigot for the hole in table,and one for the undersized hole in the hub.



06/04/2020 20:42:27

Thanks for the assistance on milling speeds, yeah i was running too slow. ive since solved that issue by doubling the speed and taking smaller cuts.

Quick question.I need to create the reamed hole 1/4" in the axle fork. i have a new hand reamer 1/4".What size would you drill under sized before reaming with the reamer? also can i put the hand reamer in the drill chuck as it has a parallel shank., and do it under power?



02/04/2020 21:20:26

ok, thanks jason, that went pretty well.There is a couple of small holes in the casting i found whilst machining but otherwise all good.

A quick question about hss endmill/slot drill speeds.I seem to be ok with the larger and medium side of end mills/slot drills, but small end mills tend to be a bit hit and miss.i.e. the 1/16" slot drill i just broke.i wonder if im not running them fast enough rpm wise.I always slow down the feed rate on the table feed motor and keep to light cuts. i am running the 1/16" slot drill at about 1100 rpm. I seem to fair slightly better with the 4 fluted type, but tiny diameter anything tends to be a bit hit and miss for me .All machining cutting fluid is used.

Any thoughts anyone?



30/03/2020 22:06:28

Thanks very much Jason,I'm half way far so good.for the outside taper do I match the castings existing taper,or do I work it out from the drawings?

Thanks again


29/03/2020 20:28:19


Edited By JasonB on 29/03/2020 20:33:47

29/03/2020 19:59:54

OK thanks for the assistance. A set of step drills ordered,so hopefully all will be fine with that.

Any ideas on how to turn the chimney casting? I get all the basic turning bits,its the whole centring it to run concentric with the inner bore. The book suggests making plugs for either end but my ally casting does not have any holes in either end.

Also how's best to turn aluminum?



25/03/2020 18:38:51

ok, so i have achieved the whole axle box assembly+bush front and back plate and machined the chimney base. Tomorrow im looking at making the two holes under the chimney base casting in the smokebox itself. The 3/4" one and the smaller one to the side for the blower fitting. Now i know from past experience that copper is very grabby. Should i put a centre drill in and then straight to the 3/4" drill, or centre and then a range of drills ramping up to eventually the 3/4" drill.?



11/03/2020 17:19:14

Well success!

Talk about making things harder than they need to be.A few encouragements with a rubber hammer using the steel in the vice plan, worked a trick.

Thanks for all your help guys!


10/03/2020 18:00:01

Cheers mate,I'll give that a try. I'll keep you posted



10/03/2020 16:31:48

Very nice!

In the vice between two blocks of steel,or wood?



10/03/2020 15:33:40

Hi thanks.

So what would you suggest for the axle fork box under the smokebox? Edit the radius for bigger on the former accordingly,or anneal the 1/16" steel to try and match the formers existing smaller radius?



10/03/2020 15:08:03

OK will do.

I have machined the pump pad, but that is as much as I have done on that.



10/03/2020 14:06:14

ok so......

Ive started on the front assembly, smokebox etc while i get brave enough to solder the boiler together.So far so good smokebox/ring/door chimney casting done and fitted and divided for the 1/16" rivets. Onto the steel section at bottom of smokebox which holds the front axle fork. Achieved a nice radius in the 1/16" steel to match smokebox od for the base of the box section under the smokebox. Onto the box section itself, made a nice radiused former to bend sheet mild steel over [compensated in width to bring the final width once formed to the 1" required]. Achieved a nice 90 degree bend in the sheet mild steel but not at the radius i filed, not far off but if i continued it would have made the component drastitically overwidth.

Is this the minimum bend radius for 1/16" plate?

Do i anneal the steel sheet? [ [i know this is not as easy to do as sheet copper or brass]

Do i measure radius formed with a radius gauge and edit the former accordingly?



ps i have photos of progress if anyone is interested.

26/07/2019 14:09:50

OK first dry assembly done, all good nice and square and level.

1/going to turn the phos bronze bushes for back head. Want to make a hss tool for this job any suggestions on tool/turning phos bronze?

2/turning /milling copper cutting fluid or not?

Pictures to follow

15/06/2019 14:42:43

So all good so far, I have 2 firebox plates, smoke box, boiler barrel to size and shape and have done the throat plate. Some 3/32 copper rivets have arrived 1/2" and 3/8" long with two rivet snaps. The hole in which the rivet shank goes into does not bottom out. Is this normal or is the hole too deep. I haven't given the riveting a practice yet but my understanding is this.

Drill hole in both parts to be riveted together

Place rivet through both plates factory head down and lying in the concaved part of the set tool held in a vice.

Get the other tool and place the upturned rivet shank into the hole(not bottoming out/bottoming out?)

Give it a tap

Use other concave part to tap down and form head, but not too tight to allow solder to flow.

Sound good?

Also if I can't get my riveting skills up to scratch, what is to stop me just putting appropriate sized copper bag screws and nuts in and soldering them in and filing flush? Or is it a case of honing my skills with the rivets.



06/06/2019 15:21:03

Hi thanks for the info.

How does the set/snap work? I have seen the tool which has both the snap and set on one piece. Surely you need two separate bits? One to seat the already made rivet head and the snap to hammer down a head on the other end.



05/06/2019 17:15:46

So, I'm still forming various bits, so far so good. Looking ahead the book mentions securing the first 3 sections together i. e. the barrel, throat plate and outer wrapper with some rivets, either 1/16 or 3/32.

Are these copper rivets?

Are these the type of rivets that you use rivet snaps on?(never done that before)

And what type of screws/nuts can I use before the rivets are finally put in for test fitting etc?

So far I have been scribing on marker blue on the copper boiler parts, I notice some people just scribe straight onto the copper with out blue.

Thanks as always


31/05/2019 12:17:47

So after buying one of the cup alloy dvds for inspiration, I am extremely tempted to purchase one of these oxy/mapp brazing kits, and use my propane torch for general heat and annealing purposes. Any thoughts?



27/05/2019 21:23:11

Ok food for thought, maybe i should just stick to the design while learning then.Good question about the pressure gauge, if it does not come off the manifold will it just have its own dedicated bush in the backhead?

Also, as im getting closer to annealing the copper plates is there a special type of hammer to do the job?



27/05/2019 20:30:36


Ive noticed that the design does not incorporate a injector, but does have a spare feed which is blanked on the manifold.I would rather like to have a small injector on the model for something to tinker with/experience in making. Can i use this spare outlet?

Also im coming round to making the drilling template for the firebox stays which is suggested to be made out of 1/16 steel plate.Can i make this out of 1/8 plate so i can mill it/drill it as its a bit more rigid and my hacksawing skills are not great.

Some photos to come of my small progress so far if people are interested?



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