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Member postings for Nick Taylor 2

Here is a list of all the postings Nick Taylor 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What bearings for a submersible wheelchair?
05/10/2018 16:50:37

I would opt for plain PTFE bearings, zero maintenance and close tolerances possible without too much friction.

Thread: Myford super 7 Positioning servo's on Spindle and main infeed
05/10/2018 09:12:32

Hi Andrew, I would use epoxy and some gauge plate (pre-ground) I think Radford (original inventor of the idea) called for 3/32" thickness (just under 2.5mm) but don't recall exactly.

Not sure if Radford's write up is available anyway.

04/10/2018 09:31:42

If the lathe is a narrow guide machine, then you are correct – the smaller face is the datum and the rear face does nothing. However, I would do a ‘wide guide conversion’. This means that the smaller inner shear does not contact the bed at all and instead the saddle runs on the much larger rear shear as the datum and front gib for adjustment.

The two saddle strips will probably require work (I refinished mine on my shaper) but if you have access to a grinder it would be nice to do. They amount of saddle lift allowed by these plates is controlled by shims which are fitted between the plates and saddle casting.

I would also get the bearing surfaces of the saddle ground – but make sure they set the saddle up correctly in relation to the cross-slide dovetails. Having the inner shears ground is necessary if you intend to use your tailstock!

As for the bed being narrower because of the regrind – yes, the gib adjustment should allow for this, if they haven’t removed too much. Did the grinders not tell you how much they removed? What you’re probably going to struggle with as well is half nut/ lead screw alignment as the saddle will be sitting lower than before. The other option is to have the saddle ground and then have turcite fitted to bring the saddle back to its original location – to do this the grinders need to remove a specific amount depending on the grade of turcite you intend to fit (it is available in different thicknesses).

As for the bearings – if the front bearing has not been starved of oil the chances are that it will be perfectly serviceable. Replacing the rear bearings is a very easy thing to do, whilst you have the machine apart I would replace the front bearing wick and clean out the oilways in the head as well. You could of course re-scrape the front bearing if you wish.

Plenty to think about! Just be methodical!

03/10/2018 17:15:24

I think the corners will require a LOT of stone work to get a good enough chamfer. The inner shears not being done mean you'll have to do a wide guide conversion if not already, saddle will need a bit of work on all surfaces.

Tailstock allignment will need work as well.

03/10/2018 15:14:17

Have to agree with Martin, it looks like they have left the corners 'sharp' as well, they will wear poorly. You'll probably have to relieve the internal corners of the saddle and tailstock casting as well.

If you look at a factory fresh bed the chamfer is considerable.

Thread: Spindle bearing Colchester Chipmaster
19/09/2018 23:02:19

Ah if you’re referring to the newer square ‘Mk2’ machines then I agree, they obviously made a choice during the design and focused on price heavily. A friend of mine runs a predominantly CNC business but needed a large swing centre lathe and looked at a few Colchester’s, finding machines less than 5 years old which were complete wrecks!

The Roundheads seem to command much better prices though!

19/09/2018 13:15:53

Not sure where you got that part number Jon, but its not the correct bearing for the chipmaster.

Ronan – not sure scandal is the right word. The bearings are expensive because of quality. Also don’t forget we are talking about a 60+ year old design here, the fact that there are spares at all is impressive.

18/09/2018 10:11:08

That’s very cheap for the bearings, are you sure they are selling you the pre-assembled dual row version, and not just the single row?

That is the entire front bearing assembly, the same bearings as fitted to the 12 inch students.

Edited By Nick Taylor 2 on 18/09/2018 10:11:43

17/09/2018 21:01:16

Hi Gunnar,

The bearings are VERY expensive if they are still available. How did you adjust your bearings?

Thread: Colchester chipmaster rebuild
13/09/2018 16:34:22

I bought a 20L drum, around £80 with the VAT. I use it in the headstock of the chipmaster and a few other machines.

Thread: Mass Production
03/09/2018 08:58:49

I'm sure he means 8.5mm deep.

To answer your question;

Thread: Colchester Chipmaster what to check for
14/08/2018 21:13:10

Mmm oil leak from the front bearing either means the bearings are so bad that they have destroyed the seal, or more likely that someone has tried to remove the spindle and stopped half way through.

Make sure the front bearing housing bolts are tight before assuming it needs new parts.

The paintwork on my machine is terrible at the chuck end due to coolant, my machine spent its entire life in the fusion prototype shop at the Atomic Energy Authority, and they loved to use aggressive coolant! Repainting is on my list of things to do.

13/08/2018 14:50:43


Don't run the variator without the correct amount of the correct oil in it! You can use this same oil in the headstock.

You can remove the back panel on the head and see what the state of the inside is like, might be worth using a magnet in there and seeing if you can pick anything up.

Not sure what the think about ‘lumpy’ slideways it could just all need oiling and adjusting. At the end of the day the proof is in the parts you make when the machine is all together. Only then can you start to access how worn everything is.

10 thou movement on the spindle is worrying though – if it’s the actual spindle moving and not the chuck then the bearings are most definitely toast. Or someone has attempted to disassemble and given up halfway through…

10/08/2018 14:20:59

The spindle taper is the rare MT4.5 and the supplied bush should take it down to MT3. They are hard to get hold of although apparently there are modern Harrisons that use this taper and the bushes can be bought from then direct. BUT! You will have a taper attachment, so you might as well just make yourself one!

All commercial Chipmasters shipped with a 3HP motor (that was the rating of the variator as well). School supplied machines were fitted with 1.5 or 2HP motors. 5 HP on a Chipmaster is a bit of a waste seeing as you couldn’t actually use the extra power without the variator slipping.

A lot of people talking about rigging up two stage countershafts – in my option a waste of time. You’ll struggle to transmit 3HP on a single V belt without slippage.

A modern inverter rated motor will easily run from 30% to 200% and with 3HP you’ll have more than enough power. I have removed the variator from mine due to noise and now run the original motor via a HuanYang VFD. I am planning to convert to serpentine belts at some stage, when I do I may change the main pulley size. As it is now I don’t go faster than say 1600rpm.

As has been said the main killer of old Chipmasters is wear – bed and spindle bearings. I would chuck up a 12inch or so long piece of stock in the chuck, place a DTI on the spindle nose and see how much movement you can get. Anything more than a couple of tenths of a thou means bad bearings.

Worn toothed belts can make some nasty sounds which can sound like whining bearings (can be very loud at higher RPM), but the belts are standard sizes and are easy to source.

I would warn you off removing the bed from the cabinet as part of your strip down – getting it on level again is the key to a straight lathe bed. As you only have 3 mounting holes you cannot easily remove twist on the Chipmaster bed. Infact I would do as little disassembly as possible!

As for metric threading – the only standard metric pitch you will have trouble generating is 1.75mm for M12. Most other metric pitches are available from the standard imperial box with a couple of gears. They are great screwcutting machines, nice clean engage/disengage click on the halfnut and built in threading dial etc.

I know which lathe you are talking about – I was watching the auction, if it didn’t sell I was going to ask the gentlemen if he would sell me the taper attachment! Also it looks like it might have the ivory handles! Posh! If not a little controversial this day and age!

Good luck!

Thread: 3-Phase Motor Conversions: Are They All Hype?
31/07/2018 13:33:08
Posted by Neil Lickfold on 31/07/2018 12:23:52:

What's your reasoning for not exceeding 70hz on the drive Neil? Most lathes have 4-pole motors which will happily run at the speed of a 2-pole.

I was told that the motors, 2 pole or 4 pole can safely go to 40% over their rated max rpm.


You will probably find that a lot of these companies state the continuous output rating. For example on they state a continuous and a part time max speed. For the TEC motors the part time rating is usually 200%, or 100Hz for the 50Hz motors with the continuous rating being the much touted 70Hz.

Thread: Myford Super 7 binding spindle
11/07/2018 09:29:53

Hi Carl,

It sounds like the preload on the rear bearings is incorrect, allowing the front bearing clearance to disappear when loaded.

Have the spindle and bearings been removed at all?

If you follow the procedure posted by Martin above (I’ve used it several times myself with great success) and you still have problems, then I would strip down the spindle. The three items that will affect the preload setting are the two rear bearings and the spacer between them. The key to the above procedure is the final wrap with a hammer on the crescent wrench! Skip that step and the bearing will bind.

If the bearings are very worn it may not be possible to load them adequately and if the spacer between them is either missing (more common than you think) or of incorrect thickness, then the bearings will not operate as intended. From memory the standard Myford spacer (part No A1991) is 20 thou thick.

Add to this the bearings could be the wrong way around (also more common than you think!).



Thread: Mini lathe 3 phase AC conversion
30/05/2018 20:01:13

The only way to limit the power from the motor with the vfd will be to set a lower maximum current rating for the motor. This will just result in the motor tripping the vfd all the time.

3HP on that lathe is silly and pointless, you’re one crash away from the machine tearing its self apart inches from your face. Even the spindle mounting method on that lathe isnt up to 3HP let alone the saddle or tool holder assembly. You say you’re a beginner and that you understand the risk but I don’t think you do. I would take the advice and get a smaller motor and get some more hours under your belt. This is not us trying to be rude, please understand that people here value our hobby and we don’t want it effected by regulations because some newbie lost an eye in his shed being silly.

Thread: Colchester lathe check up
29/05/2018 20:10:07

Matrix clutch is an excellent addition, I run my 3phase Chipmaster from a VFD but still use the clutch to stop and start the spindle when working. Using the clutch on a single phase machine will really help prolong the life of the motor caps and start winding switch. The brake is also great for batch work, when I used to run jobs on my Myford I would spend what felt like hours every job just waiting for the spindle to stop!

28/05/2018 20:32:37

If the tool is riding up on the work and the cutting edge is not above centre then... I’m not sure what to suggest unless the spindle is in reverse!

Might be worth checking the toolpost/compound for dive flex under cutting, gib wear on the compound is common on these old colchesters! Best of luck, very tidy looking machine!

28/05/2018 10:52:37

Hi simon, that looks like a Mk1 to me. What makes you think you need to check the headstock bearings? I would just change the oils, fix the lever spring and get making things on it - I’m sure you’ll discover any problems as you go!

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