Here is a list of all the postings Dick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gear wheel 45mm in diameter with 70 teeth|
Looks a bit like this set up from Doll & Co. or Carl Doll (**LINK** You can probably count the teeth from the photos.
|Thread: Pickle for Cartridge Brass|
Have you considered clock cleaning solution recipes? Ammonia, oleic acid (liquid soap) and a pinch of acetone diluted down with water. But don´t leave it in too long.
|Thread: Marine Plastic|
If you Google around (mast, traveller, cars) the more modern versions of these things are quite interesting with recirculating precision ground delrin or torlon ball systems. The prices are eyewatering.
Someone once described yachting to me as standing under a cold shower tearing up 10 pound notes.
PEEK or PEK. Both high temperature polymers that machine well, look at the carbon fibre (CF) and PTFE filled bearing grades/varieties. Perhaps also partially glass fibre (GF) reinforced
Failing that UHMWPE, used for low friction applications.
Where did the original come from?
|Thread: Sourcing Brass for clocks in Germany.|
Not sure how the smiley got in there!
Thanks for the links, the problem is to get small quantities. Bavaria has lots of little precision engineering firms, they must get small quantities of material from somewhere. The problem is that the brass I need is slightly chunkier than a model engineer would use, eg. 50 mm (2" dia. brass tube, 3-4 mm wall thickness but I only need a 3" length, similarly 4 mm brass plate. If I go down to the Modelbau exhibition in Friedrichshafen at the beginning of November I´ll ask around.
Thanks but I´ve sourced from M&P before, they are fantastic for lots of things. The sort of things that are hard to come by are brass tubes for barrels with the required wall thickness for clocks etc.
Does anyone out there have any good sources for brass (for barrels or plates) on mainland Europe? Given the punitive postal costs from GB, I´m looking around. I would also be interested to hear of any members in southern Germany.
Thanks in advance,
|Thread: What do you call this type of chuck?|
|Thread: How to cut a 2mm slot in this?|
Just had a look at our fridge freezer. These sliders appear to float on the rail, i.e. clearance top and bottom wrt the sides of the rail.. Before replacing the slider again, it might be a good idea to check if the rail is installed level and that the hinges that support the decorative outer door haven´t sagged. These kitchen hinges are a pet hate.
I take it this is the slider between the real fridge door and the outer decorative cladding.
Where does the thing break?
You seem to have a CAD model of it.
Wouldn´t it be possible to beef it up where necessary, add fillets or make bits thicker and less prone ot breaking and 3D print it? Make it too strong and the next thing to go will be the plastic rail it slides on. I´m sure there are some experts in 3D printing out there,
|Thread: New old 1950's Myford 7 Lathe still in the crate|
Perhaps the producers of the BBC2 programme "The Repair Shop" would be interested, then they would have two of them to polish and could use them as bookends?
|Thread: Are Model Engineering Exhibitions The Same|
Living in Bavaria my local model engineering exhibition is "Faszination Modellbau" held in Friedrichshafen (end October/ beginning if November) down at Bodensee (Lake Constance). The exhibition is held over 3 days in about 8 large halls. Apart from the stench of IC racing cars in a confined space and the sulphurous smell of coal fired miniature steam engines running on trackes spread over 2-3 halls and traction engines chugging around, I have nothing to complain about.
My partner would have told me if something was wrong or didn´t smell right She humours me by coming along. She seemed quite happy to look at the model railways whilst I looked around at the various stalls and exhibits.
This place is big with high ceilings and large display halls (almost aircraft hanger size). ( Perhaps that is the deciding factor).
Just in case you think this was a purely German event there was a group of Welsh steam enthusiasts running their engines there last year and in the trade display with a Myford lathe. All the usual scale model firms were also there together with all sorts of specialist firms.
Slow fliers, all sorts of vehicle models and aircraft models were on display. A bit of anarchy.
Apart from that a good cafeteria and a beer garden. In the middle of all this we sat in the beer garden whilst the Zeppelin based there took off low over the the exhibition area on a tourist jolly and proud model owners circled the area on riding on miniature traction engines (picture if you will a guy in bavarian dress with a ZZ top style beard riding a miniature traction engine).
One problem for me, no clocks.
No BO problems but we arrived fairly late , just as the early birds were departing clutching their RC helicopters etc.
|Thread: no recoil|
Sorry to muddy the waters.
If you look at the Clickspring video on YouTube (How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 20 - The Crutch Assembly And Eccentric Bushing) **LINK**.
The eccentric bushing and the clamping screw for the crutch are nicely illustrated in the first 20-60 s of the video.
In the absence of any analysis, I fear the solution proposed "to make a new anchor" without knowing what was wrong with the previous one and where the fault lies is just tapping in the dark.
Has it been put together too tightly, does it rattle? If you run the clock without the escapement engaged does it still whizz round if you gently squeeze the front and back plates between your thumb and forefinger?
How smooth are the faces of the escape wheel teeth? I assume everything has been polished. Look at the points of the escape wheel teeth, they shouldn´t be too sharp. However carefully you cut the escape wheel you might have to spin the wheel in the lathe and apply a fine file to the tips of the teeth.
Before you start to cut metal again, has this design got an eccentric pivot for the arbor holding the anchor? If so, have you tried adjusting the amount of engagement?
If you have made the little depthing tool that John Wilding advocates, check the anchor. In MichaelG´s frame grab the distance between the tips of the exit and entry pallets is five and a half teeth.
Having once assembled an escapement mirror inverted, don´t ask me how, corrected it and fiddled around bending anchors and filing away until there was no alternative but to make a new anchor,I can give 1 vote for Michael m´s comment that "Arbitrarily attacking the pallets with a file is likely to finish you up in the madhouse "….
PS. Bazyle -Very nice explanation.
|Thread: Having trouble turning grooves|
I have the same parting off tool and a small Proxxon PD230 lathe which I use for making clock bits.
It´s a matter of feel for speed and how fast to feed. Sometimes it will scream a bit but the finish is OK.
- one more vote for sharpening the blade and reducing the over hang,
- also make sure the tool is set a little below centre.
Many thanks all,
I think I have enough food for thought and will try a couple of approaches. I´m slightly grounded at the moment (don´t lift anything over 10 kg. etc. etc.) and this little project might keep me out of mischief for a while. That and trying to get my head round Fusion 360!
I´ll try to get back to you when I´ve had a go.
Many thanks for the input.
The 3D printer does have a heated bed which I run at 65°C for PLA. Perhaps I´m trying to many fronts at once. Any 3D printing tips welcome. At the moment I use a glue stick for adhesion.
Still not sure what settings to use in Slic3r to get solid prints.
Rather than pure 3D printing I´m much more interested in combining 3D printed bits and machined parts, It is still very early days.
Neil:- Thanks for the comment about the school projector, it works a bit slower. It just reminded me of running the technical side of a lecture at a congress some 30+ years ago when a Carousel projector decided to work like a pop up toaster, spitting out a whole magazine of slides. Anyway it shortened the discussion afterwards.
I have just automated a rotary table for cutting gears (according to Rex Swenson´s recipe).
Thanks for the suggestions.
From the dimensions I think 0.75 is OK for the mod. There doesn´t look like there is enough plastic there to put a new pinion in. I assume the original was either ABS or a nylon.
The whole thing sits on a 3mm shaft.
I found a 0.5 mod version of the arrangement in the web with a CAD file and scaled it to 0.75 and altered the vertical scale a bit. However my knowledge of CAD programs is minimal. Additionally I couldn´t get the slicer to give me a completely solid 3D print. My brush with 3D printing is in it´s early stages (just assembled a Geeetech Acrylic bags of bits) and I am on a steep learning curve. Still having fun to get things to stick to the bed. I don´t think PLA will have the mechanics for such a project. The wheel is 36.6 mm (47 teeth) across the points and the pinion (11 teeth) 10 mm.
It´s too hot to be outside (30+°C) so trying to find some gentle amusement.
I have set of 0.75 mod involute cutters and might try to make a version with a POM wheel and press fit Al or brass pinion. An alternative might be a 3D printed version with a brass insert. I don´t have the broken part to hand, only photos via email.
Given the simplicity of the tooth form, I probably could make a single or multipoint cutter. It just looked a bit of a simple tooth form.
A question. A friend of mine has an old ice cream maker which has eaten a plastic gear, essentially a 47 toothed wheel with a concentric 11 toothed pinion, I estimate the module at 0.75. The machine has eaten some teeth off the pinion, game over. What sort of gear shape or form do such gears have? To me the teeth appear to have rounded tips and valleys and straight sides, else the tooth form is very triangular. Is there some particular tooth form used for plastic gears in electrical appliances? What is the correct term for such a gear, twin or double gear?
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