Here is a list of all the postings Dick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Clarkson Autolock Mystery Tool|
Bibliographic data: GB1335367 (A) ― 1973-10-24
1335367 Chucks CLARKSON INTERNATIONAL TOOLS Ltd 14 Sept 1970 [16 June 1969] 30371/69 Heading B3B A tool-holding chuck includes a tool-locating part 26 slidably mounted in the chuck body to control the axial position of the tool, a rotatable adjusting ring 34 in screw-threaded engagement with the tool-locating part, and means, such as apertures for reception of a suitable tool, on the adjusting ring accessible through an opening 18 in the body for rotating the ring to control the axial position of the tool-locating part. The adjusting ring carries suitable graduations visible through the opening 18. A rear surface of ring 34 abuts a shoulder 17 in the body. A head portion 25 of tool-locating part 26 is held against rotation by engagement of a slot therein about a screw 19. The head has a conical stop 27 which engages a depression in the tool shank 23. The latter is gripped by a split collet 22 which is tightened by axial movement of a sleeve 21 due to rotation of a nut 11. Alternatively, a nut (38) (Fig. 4, not shown) with a bevelled portion, engages the collet (40) directly. The chuck is self-tightening.
Gruetzi aus Bayern.
Mains gas /air I would think. The valves are nice and fall naturally under your index finger and thumb to switch between melting/burning off, keeping warm to blow and annealing the finished piece. Maybe it predates natural gas. The other usual one was a bunsen type with a heavy stand and the burner angled up at about 45 deg. The one you have was more for working on (glass) vac lines in situ or burning off and sealing a vial of something from a vacuum line.
Laboratory glass blower´s torch?
Would painting with a solution of water glass (sodium silicate) solve the problem?
Greetings from somewhere between the Lech and the Ammersee.
Sorry I didn´t see your original post.
Neil, out of curiosity, what were the long names in the "mix of several chemicals with very long names is a clear gel"? As a polymer chemist I´d be intrigued to known.
Last year I landed up repairing a mobile which consisted of an acrylic plate (ca. 15 x 70 cm, 6mm thick) with a fantasy mechanism Meccano of wheels and propellers driven by a synchronous motor in the base. The mobile fell victim to some children visiting. The plate was attached/ butt jointed at the sides to two perspex columns 20mm dia and the whole lot was in a large perspex tube with a lid about 80 cm. tall in all. After the impact the columns were broken, the plate broke off the column on one side and the brass bushings glued into the plate were loose.
I used this stuff Acrifix 1r 0192 to repair it. ( https://www.acrifix.com/product/acrifix/downloads/391-20-acrifix-1r-0192-en.pdf). I used blue masking tape to protect the area around the joint and to remove excess glue after curing (there is a YouTube video on how to do this). A light source I used bright sunlight. I think a 100g tube of the stuff cost me about 10 Euro. The product description says it could also be used for polystyrene (PS) and polycarbonate (PC).
A picture might be helpful. I´m not sure what you mean by a "hot tub". I know certain large bits of plastic sanitary ware used to be made of highly filled thermosetting polyurethane moulding compositions.
Around the 12-15 Euro mark. As to a "simple prescription" try Germany, (100 Euro +) for anything. I tend to use simple over-glasses and a variety of off the peg reading glasses in the workshop but the availabilty of safety glasses with bifocal sections caught my attention. I take the point with regard to those whose eyes differ markedly. sorry, just trying to be helpful.
Following on from the article on "Lathework for Beginners" and the safety aspects thereof, in the latest edition (Model Engineers' Workshop 284) I was recently pleased to note that you can now get bifocal safety glasses in the normal strengths for not too much money.
As I said, the article is scant on detail, I think you assemble it, get it chiming and set the hands accordingly! Perhaps there is someone out there with more experience? Sending a PM.
Which part of the instructions for the build are you interested in? The whole article spread over 6 editions, including the building of the case, only stretches to 21 pages and is a bit scant on detail sometimes.
Take the point about the 5 bells but perhaps it has a different chime (Smoke on the water instead of a conventional Westminster chime)?
I think it is "A Spring Driven Fusee Striking and Repeating Bracket Clock" by C. Reeve published in edn.s 3414,3415,3417,3418,3419 of Model Engineering in 1971. bit scant on detail.
Many thanks for the comments. I am aware of the dangers of letting down clock springs and could do it safely. The problem is the uncertain nature of the beast due to the corrosion/thick grease etc. I think I will immerse the mechanism in a hydrocarbon and see if this changes the feel of the springs, failing this rust killer of some sort. I just don´t want it to go off whilst I´m dismantlling it! I was just after a bit of wisdom.
I´ve been given a spring driven regulator style clock mechanism. Sentimental value, no case. I was told it had been "over wound", I suspect the drive springs are rusted together. Before taking it apart I would like to obviously let down the springs rather than them potentially free themselves during disassembly. Any suggestions? Marinate in rust remover?
Not sure how to proceed.
Just in case, get the on-screen keyboard going, then you can use the mouse to enter stuff and you know what you are entering. A couple of years ago every Windows update blitzed my keyboard driver on my old laptop and this was the only way to break back in. Every key press on the keyboard took an age to register on the screen.
A couple of years after I got my mini-lathe the back drive bearing on the lathe went, I thought I had completely f**ked it, the plastic gears stripped and it stopped (not necessarily in that order),.
I replaced the plastic gears with metal ones. As someone said at the time, next time something else will go.
One suggestion at the time was to use a hole, probably for the earth connection behind the control electronics to inject lubricant. On my lathe the only access was a couple of screw holes, other lathes seem to offer better access. Another suggestion was whilst you are there to drill a couple holes so you can have a look and or lubricate without having to take the headstock off. I did neither, just applying a bit of grease and putting it back together.
Whilst I was at it I replaced the ball bearings with roller bearings. David Fenner´s "The Mini Lathe" book was useful. Arc-Euro trade has some nice illustrated articles (lots of pictures) on the taking apart and rebuilding. Now they seem to advocate other bearings.
Google "Fog catcher" or "CloudFisher". They´ve been used in Tanzania.
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