Here is a list of all the postings Alan Charleston has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Single to 3 phase vfd|
My VF drive has arrived from China. I ended up getting a WK 9000 from NFLiXin. I've bought a couple of meters of 3 core, neutral screened cable (really expensive at $25/meter) to connect the vfd to the motor, which is earthed via the screen to minimise rf interference. I've never used this wire before, and I'm not sure how to make the connection to the screen. Is a short section of the screen twisted and put into a connector close to the wire and then a piece of insulated wire to the motor earth terminal, or is a section of the screen long enough to get to the motor earth terminal twisted and insulated with some heat shrink?
If anyone has a picture of this, I would be keen to see it.
Thanks for the replies. The HuanYang vfds are a bit more expensive than the one I was looking at but still cheaper than the local quote. I'm a bit worried about the "Chinglish" manuals as raised by Mick so I may look at getting the HuanYang vfd so I can take advantage of John's offer to help with the programming.
John, what was the model number of the inverter your friends installed. The problem with sites like Aliexpress is that the choices are confusingly large. Buying from China is always a gamble but if your mates are happy this reduces the uncertainty a bit.
Thanks for the tip a bout local suppliers Ian. I'll give Fishers a ring tomorrow as well.
I'm in the process of restoring an old Boxford AUD lathe. It came without a motor so I've been running it with an old 1/4 HP washing machine motor until I had the lathe running to a point where I was confident I didn't have a piece of scrap metal. I'm there now and I'm ready to splash out a bit of money on a proper motor. I'm planning on using a 750W (1 HP) 3 phase motor with a single phase to 3 phase variable frequency drive. I've got a quote for the bits locally (New Zealand). The motor is OK at $277 but the going price here for the VFD seems to be $550 - $600.
I can get something such as this
from aliexpress for about $130.
Has anyone had any experience with this item or a recommendation for a suitable device from Aliexpress?
|Thread: John Wilding 8 day Weight Driven Wall Clock|
I wish you good luck with getting the clock to run. After banging my head against a brick wall for months, I finally conceded defeat and packed the bits away in a box. I probably took too long to flag it away. If you can get it to go, I'm sure you'll get a real kick out of it - but don't keep at it for too long as you'll end up feeling bloody useless.
I bought an old seized up Boxford lathe which I'm in the process of refurbishing. The problems are just the right difficulty for me to make them interesting but are solvable which has helped to restore my faith in myself.
Frankly, I wouldn't recommend anyone start the Wilding clock. He's woefully inadequate at explaining how the clock works and how to go about building it.
|Thread: Centering square stock in the 4-jaw|
If you find the centre of the square using a height gauge (or scribing diagonals if you don't have a height gauge) and centrepunch it you can centre it in the chuck using a wobbler.
|Thread: Convensional vs climb milling|
One situation where it is definitely better to climb mill is when cutting gears in plastic such as acetal. If you cut the teeth using conventional milling you end up with a hairy finish on both the top of the teeth where the cutter exits, and the side of the gear the cutter exits on. If you climb mill, the hairiness is confined only to the side the cutter exits as the cutter enters the top of the teeth. It's easy to remove the hairiness on the side of the gear using a razor blade but very difficult to trim the top of each gear individually.
|Thread: Cutting brass tube|
On small diameter/thin walled brass and copper I use a jewelers piercing saw which have very fine blades and give a nice smooth cut with no burrs.
|Thread: Boxford Cross Slide & Top Slide Disassembley|
Thanks for all the comments. I looked at the "workshop manual" suggested by Hopper. The problem is the Boxford headstock is completely different although it might be worth while getting a copy for the rest of the lathe. I've found Tubal Cains series of videos on disassembling a 9" South Bend lathe on You Tube helpful as well.
I hope ega's comments about swapping the clamp pins don't apply - I didn't note which pin went in which hole when I pulled it apart.
I've managed to sort out the problems.
I got a couple of screwdrivers under the top slide and a bit of gentle levering forced the pins back far enough to free it from the cross slide.
As far as disassembling the top slide itself, I finally figured out that the brass nut was the same diameter along its whole length and that it could be levered out through what I thought was the shaft hole. Once that was done, the top slide came apart without any trouble.
Easy if you know how.
I've bought a sad old Boxford AUD lathe which I'm in the process of resurrecting. I've got the headstock and gearbox working OK and now I'm working on the carriage. I've struck a couple of problems.
The first is that I can't get the top slide off the cross slide. I've taken the bolts which clamp the rotating mechanism out and can see the ends of the clamping pins at the bottom of the holes but I can't get them out far enough for the cone on the bottom of the top slide to come out of cross slide. I seem to remember Tubal Cain on Youtube had a similar problem with a South Bend but I can't for the life of me find the video.
The second problem is in disassembling the top slide. I've taken the screw and the gib out, but the brass nut stops the top part from sliding off the bottom part and the bottom dovetail is to wide to allow it to come off sideways. It seems to be an impossible puzzle.
Any suggestions to get round these problems?
|Thread: John Wilding 8 day Weight Driven Wall Clock|
When I started this clock 10 - 15 years ago I was having trouble figuring out how the bits out the front worked as well so I drew up how I thought they should go and sent it off to John Wilding. He sent my drawing back with a penciled addition showing where the spring went (see photo). He didn't make any other comments so I assume my drawing is accurate.
I hope this is helpful. I'm not up to this part yet and I won't be until I can get the clock to run properly. I'm pretty discouraged at the moment and haven't done worked on it for the last 6 weeks or so.
I agree that an eccentric at both ends of the pallets would be a good idea. As it is, the amount of adjustment is pretty small before the pivots start to bind.
Thanks Stephen. I "polished" the ends of the pivots before and after I hardened them using 1000 grit wet and dry paper. When I've got it apart I'll give them a polish using a felt pad on the Dremel and Brasso.
Thanks for your comments. I didn't make the pendulum bob as laid out in the book which is a quite streamlined design. Instead I used a piece of 40mm dia. steel 100mm long which has the same weight as I calculated the lead filled bob described in the book to have. The air resistance of this is going to be more than the bob described in the book which is only 25mm at its thickest point and 90mm in diameter. Although at this stage that's not what my problem is (there is barely enough ummph to keep the crutch alone oscillating) I'll bear it in mind if I make some progress in increasing the force from the escape wheel.
Yes, I initially ran it without oil as everything seemed to be rotating freely and I could drive the train by blowing on the escape wheel. Without oil I could only get a few beats out of the crutch but after I lubricated the pivots it more or less ran continuously.
You say I could try a heavier oil for the winding drum pivots. I have some clock spring oil. Would this be a better bet?
From what you say about lubricating the pallet faces, (which I didn't do) I presume one of the jobs to be done when I get it apart is to polish the contact surfaces of the escape wheel which still have the machined surface.
All of the small pivot holes are reasonably loose but the large diameter winding wheel pivots are a reasonably close fit. I'm not sure of the best way to ease these out as one end is an odd size which I needed to make a special reamer for.
The other area I'm not sure about is the adjustable front pallet bush. If this is rotated much, it binds onto the escape wheel pivot because the holes in the front pallet bush and the back cock aren't in line. This is made worse because of the thickness of the front bush. I've tried to get around this by drilling the hole out except for the back 1/8" but the amount of adjustment achievable before the pivots start to bind still isn't much.
As far as the lantern versus cut pinions go, one of the problems with lantern pinions is that you can't look at them end on to see how they engage with the wheels when you are depthing them. If I have the depthing wrong, I'm not inclined to plug the holes in the frame and start again. At some stage enough will be enough and I'll move on to a more rewarding project.
Thanks for the comments,
I've got exactly the same problem. Without the pendulum in place the crutch goes backwards and forwards but there is not enough "ummph" to maintain the pendulum after it is set going.
I was hoping that I had got to the stage where either it would work OK and I could proceed with the bits on the front of the clock or it wouldn't work at all which would give me an excuse to give up on this project from hell. Sadly it's half working so I suppose I'll keep on going to see if I can get it going properly.
I'm going to disassemble it and open up the pivot holes, polish the wheel bearing surfaces and the pinions. I've gone for the lantern pinions which may have been a mistake but I'm not going to machine solid ones.
One thing I found made a difference was to put a bit of clock oil into the pivot holes - this sped up the crutch oscillations a lot.
If all else fails, I'll try your idea of hanging the weight directly from the main wheel spool which will double the force to the train - I don't mind winding it every 4 days rather than every 8.
I wonder what the ratio of finished clocks to books sold is.
I repeated the test I did using a reamed brass collet onto a 3/32" silver steel shaft with both the surfaces of the shaft and the collet roughened with 240# wet and dry emery paper. The emery paper was rubbed along the axes. It made a big difference to the strength of the joint.
I did the same to the arbor through the barrel and after waiting 24 hours I hung the weight off it. No problems. If it's still OK tomorrow, I'll continue with the rest of the train.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for all your comments. Both the silver steel arbor and the reamed hole in the brass were shiny which could have been part of the problem as well as not leaving it to cure for long enough. As per the comments, I'll try roughening the surface of the silver steel with 240# wet and dry emery and try getting a bit of scotchbright through the hole in the brass.
The first joint I'll make will be the arbor going through the barrel which holds the weight string. I'll test the integrity of the joint by hanging the weight 1/2" off the ground and without connecting the rest of the train. I'll leave it for a couple of days. Even if it fails, I don't see it causing any damage.
Thanks for the help,
I had trouble finding anyone who stocked Loctite 638 locally so I got Bondloc B638 which I was assured was the equivalent, and as it was made in England (i.e. not China) I bought a bottle.
I've done a test by gluing a piece of 3/8" brass rod reamed out to 3/32" onto a piece of 3/32" silver steel. I degreased both parts using isopropyl alcohol.
The bottle said it took 1 hour to fully cure so after 2 hours I tried twisting the brass off the shaft. It wasn't all that difficult and I got a bit worried as to whether the joint was strong enough so I downloaded the Technical Data Sheet from Bondloc. It gives the full cure time as 24 hours. It also says that the surface keying action is greatly increased by a rough surface finish giving higher shear strength. They recommend a roughness of 30 - 100 micons whatever that means.
Does anyone else roughen the surfaces, and if so, what is a good grade of emery paper to use?
I've redone the trial and given the silver steel a bit of a rub with 600# emery paper and I'll give it 24 hours before I try twisting it off again.
Good to hear from a fellow chemist. In the past I had a tube of Loctite in the fridge for over 10 years and it seemed to last OK. I figure that if the recommended storage temperature range is 8 - 21C, it's better being in the fridge at say 4 - 5C than at ambient which can be from say 5 - 30C here. The relatively stable fridge temperature will reduce the propensity for the bottle to breathe as well.
Thanks for all the comments. I'll follow the advice and Loctite the wheels in place. It's interesting the general opinion favours using Loctite 638. Wilding recommends 601 in the book - but that is more than 25 years old now, so I'll go for the 638.
I'm worried about using Loctite as I've had problems in the past when I've mucked about too long getting the position right and having a piece freeze in the wrong position. I think I'll make a 1/2" OD/ 3/32" ID collet bored out to say 1/4" 6mm from one end and use this to position the wheel on the shaft before adding the Loctite. I can then apply the glue to the shaft and slide the wheel into position up against the collet with no delays. The bored out end will stop the wheel sticking to the collet.
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